LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Cliap....:>>Copyright No. 

Slielf.....All. 2j 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



AUG ^ m6 



.^'ir.,.. ,..-,*»*• 



Greenhouse Management 

A Manual for Florists and Flower Lovers 



ON THE 



Forcing of Flowers, Vegetables and Fruits 



IN 



GREENHOUSES, 



AND THE 



Propagation and Care of House Plants. 



BY 

L. E. TAFT 

Professor of Horticxdtnre and La7id!iC(tj>e Garfleiihu/, Michigan Agricultural 
College, and author of ^^ Greenhouse Construction." 



ILLUSTRATED 




NEW YORK -^ 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 

1898 

'^- TWO COPIES RECEIVED. 



^ \%<\< — ^•^'\'^ 



i i 



Copyright, 1898, 
By orange judd company 



n6 



PREFACE. 



The florist finds that in his profession changes are 
continually taking place, and if he would succeed he 
must keep up with the procession. Not only are new 
and improved methods continually being brought into 
use, but the plants that he grows change from year to 
year. A few years ago camellias, tuberoses and bouvar- 
dias were among the plants that were most grown, but 
now, if grown at all, they have but a small place. Not 
only does Fashion change the classes of plants that are 
grown, but from year to year the varieties change, and 
the methods of culture improve. 

To inform hinu^elf as to the methods that have 
been found valuable l)y his competitors, one can, to be 
sure, look to the horticultural periodicals, which con- 
tain much valuable information, but tlie books to which 
he can go for advice are few and most of them are out 
of date. To sui)ply a source from which information as 
to the methods used by the more successful florists can 
be drawn, this b(K)k has been prepared. As originally 
written it consisted of about ten chapters, which were 
intended as a sort of jippendix to Greenhouse Construc- 
tion, but the subject of Greenhouse Management was 
deemed worthy of a separate volume, and accordingly 
the copy was withdrawn from the printer and consid- 
erably added to. 

An attem])t has been made in this book to give to 
florists an insight into the methods that are to-day being 
used by their intelligent and successful brethren. In 
nearly every case they have been tried by the author, or 

iii 



iy GREEXHOL'SE MANAGEMENT. 

bo lias seen the results of their use in numerous in- 
stances, so that they can be used without hesitation. It 
is lio])ed that the information as to the best methods of 
forcing vegetables will be of especial valuer as but little 
attention has been given that industry, which is one 
that is rapidly increasing in importance. Although 
this subject has perhaps received less space than it really 
deserves, we have endeavored to present it in a clear and 
concise form that can be followed and understood by 
anyone. 

In treating the standard crops of the commercial 
florist, such as the rose, carnation, violet and chrysan- 
themum, we have touched upon the time and method of 
cultivation and the general care required in growing 
them, but have not deemed it wortli while to go into 
lengthy descriptions of varieties, as they change from 
year to year ; the lists given, however, are those that are 
to-day deemed most valuable. 

Florists are more and more, each year, troubled by 
injurious insects and fungi. For many of them we have 
2)ointed out the treatment, and have added a list of rem- 
edies which includes those that are considered most 
reliable. In the chapters devoted to the care of house 
plants, we have indicated the methods of growing and 
caring for the plants that are commonly grown in the 
house. 

Many of the illustrations are from drawings and 
photographs made under the direction of the author, 
and for the others we are indebted to the kindness of 
friends. Several were furnished by the publishers of 
the American Agriculturist, Avhile most of the half 
tones of the specimen pots, and of specimen blooms, as 
well as Figs. 4T, 91 and 02, were supplied by rhe pub- 
lishers of The Florisfs Exclimuje and American Gar- 
dening. AYe jire also indebted to Gardening aiul The 
American Florist. Many of the cuts illustrating the 



PREFACE. V 

interiors of grcoiilioiises used for various crops, ns well 
as the cultural methods used, were sn[)plied by various 
specialists. Thus, Mr. Alex. Montgomery of the Waban 
conservatories, Natick, Mass., furnished cuts of their 
rose houses; Fred Dorner & Son, Lafayette, In<l., and 
The Cottage Gardens, Queens, L. I., carnations ; Pitcher 
& Manda, Short Hills, N. J., and E. D. Smith, Adrian, 
Mich., chrysanthemnms ; Fred Boulon, Sea CUiff, L. L, 
Hitchings & Co., New York, and Profs. Galloway and 
Dorsett, Garrett Park, Md., violets; J. C. Vaughan, 
Chicago, III., J. M. Gasser, Cleveland, Ohio, and Cush- 
man Gladiolus Co., Euclid, 0., bulbs; W. H. Elliott, 
Brighton, Mass., asparagus house; and Julius Roehrs, 
Carlton Hill, N. J., miscellaneous ])lants. Acknowl- 
edgments are also due for the use of cuts and for help- 
ful suggestions to the following officers of experiment 
stations: Prof. L. H. Bailey, Ithaca, N. Y., Prof. S. T. 
Maynard, Amherst, Mass., Prof. W. M. Munson, Orono, 
Me., Prof. L. F. Kinney, Kingston, R. I., Prof. C. S. 
Plumb, Lafayette, Ind,, and Prof. R. L. Watts, Knox- 
ville, Tenn., as well as Prof. B. D. Halsted of New Jer- 
sey, for the article on Violet Diseases, and Prof. W. J. 
Green, Wooster, Ohio, who supplied the article on 
Sub-irrigation. 

L. R. TAFT. 
Agricultural College, Mich. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS- 



Page 
CHAPTER I. 
The Forcing of Roses, ...•...! 

CHAPTER II. 
THE Carnation, ........ 26 

CHAPTER III. 
The Chrysanthemum, ....... 54 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Violet, ......... 77 

CHAPTER V. 
13UL,BS AND THEIR CULTURE, . ..... 88 

CHAPTER VI. 
Tuberous Begonias, ....... 103 

CHAPTER VII. 
Orchid Culture, . . . . . . , . IIG 

CHAPTER VIII. 
AZALEAS, ......... 131 

CHAPTER IX. 
Calceolarias, Cinerarias and primulas, .... 143 

CHAPTER X. 
Ferns, Smilax and Asparagus, ..... 153 

CHAPTER XI. 
Palms, pandanus and Arauoaria, ..... 162 

CHAPTER XII. 
Drac^nas and Cordylines, ...... 168 

CHAPTER Xin. 

Lettuce Forcing, ........ 182 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Cucumbers, Tomatoes and melons, .... 198 

CHAPTER XV. 

Mushroom Culture, ........ 211 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Asparagus and Rhubarb, ...... 226 

CHAPTER XVII. 
Radishes, Carrots, Beets and Beai>s, . . . .230 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Grape Growing Under Glass, ..... 234 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Strawberry Growing under Glass, ..... 248 

CHAPTER XX. 
Fruit Trees under Glass, ...... 253 

CHAPTER XXI. 
Management of House Plants, ..... 258 

vi 



TABLE OF CONTEKTS. VU 

Page 

CHAPTER XXII. 
The Growing of Bedding Plants, ..... 274 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
Pkopagation of Plants by Seeds and Cuttings, . . 287 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Propagation by Layering, Grafting and Budding, . 300 

CHAPTER XXV. 
Insects of the Greenhouse, ...... 308 

CHAPTER XXVI. 
Diseases of Greenhouse Plants, ..... 324 

CHAPTER XXVll. 
Insecticides and their preparation, . . . .351 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Fungicides, their Preparation and Use, . . • 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

80IL, Manures and Watering, ..... 

CHAPTER XXX. 
Fuel— Coal, Oil and Gas, 



356 
360 
376 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Fig. 

1. Pres. Carnot rose, . , , 

2. House of Bridesmaid roses, 

3. Wire trellis for roses, 

4. Hybrid roses pruned and tied down, . 

5. Bed of hybrid roses in bud, 
G. Types of carnation cuttings, 

7. Carnation house, short span to south, 

8. Carnation supports, .... 

9. Carnations supported by chicken netting, 

10. Cariuitions supported by meshes of cotton twine, 

11. Carnations supported by wire lathing, 

12. Daybreak carnation, 

13. Mrs. Geo. M. Bradt carnation, 

14. Chrysanthemums trained to stakes, 

15. Chrysanthemums supported by wire and twine 
IG. Chrysanthemum crown bud, 

17. Chrysanthemum terminal bud, 

18. Chrysanthemum, Eugene Dailledouze, 

19. Chrysanthemum, ^Mayflower, . 

20. Chrysaiithemum, Mrs. Fei'rin, 

21. Chrysanthemum, lora, . 

22. Narrow violet house, . . . 

23. Hitchings violet house, . 

24. Narrow violet house, improved, . 

25. Single violet, Princess de Galles, 

26. Box of Roman hyacinths, . . , 

27. Double Dutch hyacinths, 

28. Improved hyacinth glass, . , . 

29. Single early tulips, . . , 

30. Freesia refracta alba, . . . 
.31. Lilium Harrisii, .... 
.32. Forcing lily of the valley, . . , 

33. Cyclamen plant, .... 

34. Gladiolus May, .... 

35. House of tuberous begonias, . . 

36. Single tuberous begonia, . . . 

37. Double tuberous begonia, 
.38. Gloxinia, ..... 

39. House of gloxinias, 

40. Fancy caladium, .... 

viii 



Page 
13 
15 

20 
23 
25 
28 
33 
41 
43 
45 
47 
.50 
.52 
59 
Gl 
G4 
G5 
7'' 
73 
74 
75 
78 
79 
81 
87 
89 
91 
91 
92 
94 
96 
97 
100 
102 
104 
105 

lot; 

110 
111 
114 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



IX 



Via. 

41. Orel) ills ill bloom, . . 

42. Cypripedium Spiceriauum, . 

43. Cattleya triaiia^, . . . 

44. Orchid baskets, ... . 

45. Aerides Savageanum, 

46. PhaUii^nopsis grandiflora, 

47. Potting and cribbing orchids, 

48. Azalea in compact form, . . 

49. Azalea witli open head, . 

50. Hydrangea Otaksa, . 

51. Cytisus, . . . • . 

52. Bench of lilacs, 

53. Kalmia latifolia, . 

54. Specimen calceolaria, . . 

55. Cineraria hybrida, . . 
5G. Single Chinese primrose, . 

57. Machet mignonette, . . 

58. Adiantiim Farleyense, . . 

59. Boston fern, . . . 

GO. Asparagus Sprengeri, . . 

Gl. Asparagus house, . 

G2. Fan p:ilm, .... 

G3. Dwarf rattan palm, 

G4. Variegated aspidistra, 

G5. Group of anthuriums and alocasias 

GG. Alocasia metallica, 

G7. Aglaonema pictuni, 

G8. Even-span lettuce house, . 

G9. Lean-to lettuce house, . 

70. Lettuce pot plant, 

71. Pot plant ready for market, . 

72. Interior of lean-to lettuce house, . 

73. Lettuce packed for local market, 

74. Cucumber house, interior, . 

75. English forcing encumbers, 

7G. Interior of tomato forcing house, 

77. Growing mushrooms on greenhouse 

78. Crop of mushrooms under a bench, 

79. Brick spawn, 

80. French mushroom spawn, . 

81. New mushroom in a cold frame, 

82. Black Hamburg grape, 

83. Grape house in fruit, 

84. Eye cutting of grape, 

85. Short cutting of grape, . 

86. Bench of strawberry plants, 

87. The crop gathered, 

88. Fruiting strawberry plants, 

89. Pear tree in pot, . 

90. Plum tree in fruit, 

91. A window garden, . « 
■92. A well arranged window box, 



benches 



Page 
118 
120 
122 
123 
124 
12G 
127 
132 
134 
135 
137 
140 
142 
144 
145 
147 
151 
155 
15G 
157 
IGl 
1G3 
1G4 
167 
17G 
178 
179 
183 
185 
187 
189 
190 
193 
200 
204 
207 
210 
212 
218 
219 
224 
238 
240 
246 
246 
250 
251 
251 
254 
255 
260 
270 



LIST OF ILLIT8T RATIONS. 



93. Epiphyllum Iruuealuui, 

94. A coilection of cacti and aloes, 

95. A house of pedigree violets, • 

96. Showing condition of stem for cuttings 

97. Soft cutting of coleus, . 

98. Geranium cutting, 

99. Cutting of Arbor Vitae, . 

100. Long cutting of grape, 

101. Tongue or whip grafting, 

102. Cleft grafting, . 

103. Side grafting, 

104. Budding, .... 

105. AVingless female aphis, 

106. AVinged male aphis, . 

107. Fuller's rose beetle, 

108. Ked spider, 

109. Thrips, 

110. Mealy bug, 

111. Fumigation of a violet house, 

112. Rose spot , 

113. Spores of blacl<: spot, 

114. Carnation rust, 

115. Spores of carnation rust, 

116. Spot disease of carnations, 

117. Effect of spot on carnations, 

118. Anthracnose of carnations, 

119. Fairy ring spot of carnation, 

120. Spores of fairy ring spot, . 

121. Carnation leaf mold, 

122. Botrytis or rot of carnations, 

123. Bacteriosis of carnations, 

124. Violet leaf spot, 

125. Bermuda lily disease, . 

126. Leaf blight of mignonette, . 

127. The Kinney pump, 

128. Crude oil burner, 



• • * 


rase 

2><r) 

286 


• • * 


292 


cuttings. 


293 
294 




296 




298 




299 




302 




303 


» • * 


304 

306 




309 




310 




311 




312 




313 




314 


• • 


322 
324 


• • * 


325 
. . 329 




330 




332 




333 




334 




335 


• » • 


335 


• • • 


336 
336 


• • • 

• • • 
« • * 

• • • 

• • * 

• • • 


337 
339 
343 
346 
366 
377 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE F0RC1N"G OF ROSES. 

While other departments of floriculture have made 
wonderful progress during the past ten years, in none of 
them has it been as great as in the winter forcing of 
roses, and to-day hundreds of large establishments are 
almost entirely devoted to this work, while every small 
florist has liis rose house, and the sale of cut blooms 
generally equals the amount received from all other 
flowers combined. 

Although it is true that roses, to be successfully 
grown, require careful attention, it is not true that 
there is any wonderful secret that one must acquire in 
order to grow them, and, while the inexperienced rose 
grower cannot expect tlie highest success, it is hoped 
that if the directions here given are carefully followed 
many mistakes may be ])revented. The work of the 
rose grower generally begins with the propagation and 
growing of the plants, and therefore we will commence 
with that operation and follow along with the various 
steps as the season advances. 

PROPAGATING THE PLANTS. 

Rose plants for forcing purposes are generally grown 
from cuttings of the new wood made any time from 
November to February, but for most purposes the earlier 

1 



2 OREENHOirSE MANAGEMEXT. 

(late is preferable. Tlic rule generally given for learn- 
ing if the plants are in ])r()pei' condition to be nscd for 
cuttings, i. e., when in bending a brancli tlie wood 
snaps, does not hold for roses, as cuttings should not be 
made until the buds in the axils of the leaves have be- 
come firm and hard. Some consider that the lower 
buds on a stem are in good condition when the flower 
buds are ready to be cut, while others believe that the 
best time for making the cuttings is when the buds 
begin to show color. At any rate, the cuttings should 
be made before the leaf buds begin to swell. The cut- 
tings made as soon as the buds have formed and the 
wood has lost its succulent nature, will root quicker, and 
a much larger per cent of them will form roots, or 
"strike," as it is called. If the variety is a new and 
choice one, the blind shoots, or those that have not 
formed flower buds, are often used for making cut- 
tings. While it may be done occasionally without 
marked injury, if persisted in the tendency will be 
to develop plants that form few flowering stems, 
and the results will not be satisfactory, sotthat the con- 
tinued use of the blind shoots for cuttings is not to be 
recommended. 

When the stems have long internodes, and particu- 
larly if it is a new sort, a cutting should be obtained 
from every good bud, but those at the lower part of the 
stem, and all at the upper portion that are to any ex- 
tent soft and succulent, should be rejected. The cut- 
tings of American Beauty, and other varieties with short 
joints, should contain two or more buds. Cuttings 
should be from one and one-half to three inches long, 
with one bud near the top, at any rate, and with the 
lower end cut off smoothly at right angles, with a sharp 
knife. If the upper leaf is large, about one-half of it 
should be cut away, and the other leaves, if any, should 
be rubbed off. 



THE FOKCING OF HOSES. 3 

The cuttings should bo dropped into water to pre- 
vent their drying out, and as soon as possible should be 
placed in tlie propagating bed. This should contain 
about four inches of clean, sharp sand of medium fine- 
ness, and should have heating pipes beneath, to give bot- 
tom heat. Set the cuttings in rows, about two inches 
apart and three-fourths of an inch in the row, and press 
the sand firmly about them. At once wet them down 
thorouglily, and if the weather is clear and bright the 
beds should be shaded during the middle of the day for 
the first week. The propagating house should be kept 
at a temperature, at night, of fifty-eight or sixty degrees, 
with about ten degrees more of bottom heat. During the 
day, it should be well ventilated to keep up the bottom 
heat and thus promote root development, and to admit 
fresh air, but a temperature ten degrees higher than at 
night is desirable. 

In about three or four weeks, with proper care, 
every cutting should be rooted. The requirements for 
success, as noted above, are, good cuttings, clean, sharp 
sand, a proper temperature, shading when necessary, 
and an occasional wetting down of the bed, in order 
that the cuttings may not at any time become dry. If 
the house is inclined to dry out, or if the weather is 
bright, the cuttings as well as the walks should be si:>rin- 
kled occasionally, and the ventilation should have care- 
ful attention. It is best to use fresh sand for each batch 
of cuttings. 

POTTIXG AI^D CARE OF THE PLANETS. 

When the roots are three-fourths of an inch long, 
the cuttings should be potted off into two or two and 
one-half inch pots, pressing the soil firmly. The best 
soil for the potting of rose cuttings is made of equal 
parts of leaf mold, or decayed })asture sods, and garden 
loam, with a little cow manure and bone meal, and sand 



4 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

in proportion to the heaviness of the soil. After being 
potted the cuttings should be placed in a house with a 
night temperature of a little less than sixty degrees. 
They require the same care as other plants, careful 
watering, with an occasional syringing to keep down the 
red spider, proper ventilation, and an avoidance of drafts 
and direct sunlight for a few days, being the main 
things desired. 

Unless tobacco stems are strewn on the beds, it will 
be necessary, once or twice a week, to burn tobacco 
stems in the house, or syringe them with tobacco water. 
From the time the cuttings are potted off until they 
have finished flowering and are ready to be thrown out, 
or rested, they should be kept growing, every precaution 
being taken to avoid a check, if the best results are de- 
sired. Some, however, i)refer to grow the plants rapidly 
until they are in four-inch pots, and then give them a 
short rest. As soon as the roots have filled the pots, 
and before the plants become pot-bound, shift to three 
or three and one-half inch pots. By the last of April, 
if they have had good care, the first batch will have 
filled four-inch pots and will be strong enough to plant 
in the beds for early flowering, while the others, as they 
come on, can be repotted, and will soon be large enough 
to be transferred to the beds. Only strong, well-grown 
plants should be used, and if possible all should be 
planted out by the flrst of July. By this early planting 
not only can a large crop of blooms be secured during the 
summer, when there is a good demand at a fair price, but 
the plants will be so strong that they will be able to give 
large crops during the fall and early winter, when they 
are most needed. Planting some of the beds by the. first 
of April, for summer use, will often l)e desirable. 

SOIL FOR ROSE.-^. 

While the different varieties will not always thrive 
with the same kind of soil, it is generally admitted that, 



THE FORCING OF ROSES. 5 

at all events, a soil for roses should contain decomposed 
pasture sods and cow manure. The sod should be ob- 
tained during the previous summer from some old pas- 
ture with a thick, fibrous sod, if possible, and should be 
piled up with alternate layers of cow manure, using one 
part of the manure to from four to six of the sods, ac- 
cording to the character of each. The sods should be 
cut just thick enough to remove the thick, fibrous por- 
tion, and if from an average loam soil, neither very 
heavy nor light, but with a good admixture of clay, the 
compost prepared as above will be of a suitable charac- 
ter for the rose benches, but if the sods come from a 
sandy loam soil the addition of one part of clay to five 
or six of the mixture will be desirable. On the other 
hand, if the soil is inclined to be heavy, an equal quan- 
tity of sand should certainly be added. AVhile consider- 
able clay is desirable in soil for roses, tliere is danger of 
its being too heavy, as, even in shallow benches, if the 
soil at any time becomes too wet, particularly in the fall 
before the fires are started, or during a cloudy period in 
the winter, it will not only be longer in drying out than 
a lighter soil, bub '^ black spot" and other diseases will 
be much more likely to follow. 

Early in the spring the compost pile should be 
worked over and the coarser sods broken np. After 
lying in the pile for two or three weeks more it will be 
ready to place on the benches. When the houses are 
long, it will be convenient to have o])enings in the side 
walls, through which the soil can be thrown upon the 
benches, and if there are side ventilators this can be 
readily done. If it is not feasible to have openings in 
the sides of the houses, it will be a great convenience if 
a small car can be run along the edges of the benches. 
As an entire chapter was devoted to "Rose Houses" in 
the companion volume, *^ Greenhouse Construction," in 
which the form and width of house best adapted to the 



6 GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

crop was discussed at length, it is not thought necessary 
to devote space to it here. By reference to the other 
book, full information regarding these points, and upon 
such important matters as the pitch for the roof, ar- 
rangement of the ventilators, the method of estimating 
the amount of heating pipe required and the best way of 
arranging it, will be obtained. 

SOLID BEDS VERSUS RAISED BENCHES. 

For many years solid beds were almost universally 
used for growing roses and similar plants. They admit 
of supi^lyiug a full amount of plant food, but while they 
lessen the danger of injury from neglect in watering, 
they frequently do great harm if the ^ilants are over- 
watered, particularly if the sun does not show itself for 
a number of days, as they are a long time in drying out. 
For this reason they fell into disrepute, and were 
replaced, in most establishments, by shallow raised 
benches, as it was found that roses grown upon them, in 
four or five inches of soil, were less likely to receive a 
check during the dull days of early winter, when they 
are most in demand and bring the best prices. Upon 
solid beds, however, with good drainage, large crops are 
secured as the bright, sunny days of spring come on, 
and, what is of much imi)ortance, the plants can be 
grown for two or more years before they are thrown out, 
while upon shallow benches it is generally advisable to 
renew the plants each year. 

A method has now come into use that provides both 
for the thorough drainage and the aeration of the soil, 
as well as warming it up and drying it out. The solid 
beds are generally about seven feet wide, with two beds 
and three walks in a house twenty feet in width. The 
drainage is ])rovided, in some cases, by means of com- 
mon drain tile laid across the beds at intervals of fi'om 
one to three feet, while in others a foot or more in depth 



THE FOKCIXG OF ROSES. 7 

of stones, or broken brick, is placed in tlie bottom and 
covered with eigiit inches of soik A few of our most 
successful growers secure bottom heat by running one 
or more steam pipes lengthwise of the beds at about the 
center of the layer of stones ; the heat distributes itself 
tlirough the bed, and is of marked advantage in wet, 
dull weather, in drying out the surplus water and warm- 
ing up the soil. Another favorite arrangement is to 
have three beds, each five feet wide, and four walks, in a 
house twenty-two feet wide. These beds have all of the 
advantages of the old solid bed, with none of the disad- 
vantages, and are equally well adapted to carnations, 
violets, lettuce and other crops. The watering of the 
plants by what is known as sub-irrigation has many ad- 
vantages, and is treated in another chapter. 

PLAi^TING THE HOUSES. 

Before the beds are filled with soil, ample drainage 
facilities should be provided, and if raised, wooden 
benches are used there should be cracks of nearly one 
inch between the bottom boards, which should prefer- 
ably not be more than six inches wide. When tile bot- 
toms are used the cracks can be somewhat smaller. To 
prevent the soil from falling through the cracks, or 
from filling up the openings between the stones in the 
solid beds, it is well to first put down a layer of sods 
with the grass side down, and upon these four or five 
inches of the prepared soil for a raised bench, or seven 
or eight for a solid bed, should be placed. This should 
be leveled off and firmly j^acked down. 

The beds are now ready for planting, and this 
should not be long delayed, as the thin layer of soil will 
soon dry out and will be in an undesirable condition for 
setting out the plants. The rows are generally twelve 
inches apart lengthwise of the house, so that a bed will 
hold as many rows as it is feet wide, and the plants are 



8 GREEXHOUSE 3IAXAGEMENT. 

set twelve to sixteen inches apart in the vows, according 
to the strength of the variety and whether designed for 
one or two years' growing. Assort the plants, and use 
the smaller ones next the walk. Dig holes for the 
plants with a trowel, and set the plants ahout as deep as 
they grew in the pots, taking care not to break tlie 
*' balls," unless the plants have become pot-bound, when 
it is well to loosen the roots. Wlule it is always desir- 
able to work the soil carefnliy into place and to press it 
firmly about the roots, the soil between the plants should 
be smoothed off and the surface left light. Upon slop- 
ing benches, in particular, it is an excellent plan to 
have dei3ressions about the i)lants to hold water and 
cause it to sink down to the roots, for the first few water- 
ings, until the plants become established. If weeds 
start, as they probably will in a w^eek or ten days, the 
soil should be stirred as soon as they appear, and this 
should be repeated whenever necessary to keep the beds 
clean, until the roots fill the soil, when it should be dis- 
continued, as it is likely to check the growth of the 
plants by breaking the roots. 

WATERING AND VENTILATING. 

From planting time, every detail of watering and 
ventilating should be carefully performed, as any check 
now would seriously injure the i)rospect of a paying- 
crop of flow^ers. As soon as planted, and every bright 
morning thereafter until established, the plants, and 
also the walks, should be thoroughly syringed, and the 
beds should be watered whenever Ihey show signs of 
drying out, but while they should not suffer from lack 
of water, even greater i)ains should be observed that they 
are not saturated. This will also aid in keejung down 
the red spider, whicli only nourishes in a dry atmosphere. 
No plant recpiiies more care than the rose, about ventila- 
tion. Drafts of cold air upon the foliage should always 



THE FORCING OF ROSES. 9 

be avoided, and it is generally a good thing, in a rose 
house, to have the ventilators arranged with this idea. 
If there is but a single row, they should be on the side 
from which the prevailing winds come, if hinged at the 
bottom, and on the opposite side if hinged at the top. 

While either extreme of temperature sbould be 
guarded against, it is quite as desirable to give the plants 
fresh air, at least for a short time, each day. In hot 
weather give all of the air possible, and leave on some 
even at night, at the ridge. Exposing the plants to 
great extremes of temperature is especially likely to 
bring on an attack of the mildew, and if it should ap- 
pear, as it often does, without apparent cause, the house 
should be kept somewhat closer than usual for a few 
days, and after syringing them the plants should be 
dusted over with sulphur. As the weather becomes cool 
in September, it is well to furnish a little artificial heat, 
to keep the temperature of tlie house above fifty-live 
degrees. One or two steam pipes, or a low fire in the 
hot water heater, will secure this and often prevent a 
serious check of the plants. With this care, firm, short- 
jointed wood should be secured, which will give an 
abundance of bloom. While fifty-eight degrees is given 
as desirable for a rose house, in order to secure the best 
results, with the various sorts some little deviation is 
advisable. The Meteor, among other kinds, needs a 
few degrees higher than that, while the Perle, Bride 
and Mermet, and others of the old varieties, should 
have a temperature a little lower than fifty-eight degrees, 
if the plants have been properly grown. 

It will generally be found best to do the watering 
early in the morning, and, on the warm, bright days 
when syringing is necessary, it should be done early 
enough so that the plants will dry off before night. In 
ventilating, care should be taken to avoid extremes, and 
it is best to give a little air as soon as the sun begins to 



10 GEEENHOUSE MAN^AGEMEIfT. 

warm tlie houses, and tlie amount should be gradually 
increased, so that during the warmest and brightest part 
of the day it will be ten or fifteen degrees higher than 
at night. When the temperature is allowed to run up 
ten or fifteen degrees before the air is let on, and then 
the ventilators are opened wide, it will be almost sure to 
bring oil mildew. Plants grown with a judiciously reg- 
ulated supply of air will be in a much healthier condi- 
tion than those grown where extremes prevail. 

LIQUID MANURES A:SD FERTILIZERS. 

After the roses have started into growth, it will be 
well to give them an application of liquid manure once 
in two weeks. It will generally be advisable to pinch 
off the first flower buds that form, that the plants may 
throw all of their vigor into the development of stems 
and leaves. 

From the first benches planted, cutting can begin 
in July, and as soon as the crop is off the bed should 
receive an application of ground bone, at the rate of one 
pound 'vO twenty-five square feet. This should be 
slightly w^orked into the soil, and the bed covered with 
manure. A half inch of sheep manure will be prefera- 
ble, but if this cannot be obtained three-fourths of an 
inch of cow manure will answer. Unless mineral ma- 
nures are relied upon, the application should be repeated 
once in two months. During the dull weather from 
November to January, the mulching should be thin, but 
by February the amount used may be slightly increased. 

It is believed by many growers that the diseases 
like ^^ black spot," and mildew, and the other troubles, 
such as blind shoots, and imperfect flowers, may be at- 
tributed, at least in part, to the stimulating effects of 
stable manure. While they are not caused directly by 
its use, there can be no doubt but that the large quan- 
tity of sheep and cow manui-e used by many florists 



THE FORCIXG OF ROSES. 11 

promotes a soft, watery growth that is particularly sns- 
cej^tible to disease, and, what is more to be dreaded, 
that a slight neglect, such as an improper temi)erature, 
or the application of too much water, will give the 
plants a check that will result seriously to them. The 
use of mineral fertilizers, on the other hand, tends to 
develop earlier, larger and better flowers, and the plants 
will be stronger, and with firmer stems and foliage, that 
will be less likely to be injured by neglect and disease. 
For these reasons it is a growing practice with many 
of our most successful rose growers to rely largely upon 
mineral manures, beginning as early as November upon 
old plants, although January will be safer for young 
ones. These fertilizers can be broadcasted either in a 
dry state or in water. For roses, a good mixture will 
consist of one part of nitrate of soda, two parts of sul- 
phate of potash, and ten parts of ground bone. These 
should be thoroughly mixed and applied broadcast at 
the rate of one pound to twenty-live square feet of bench, 
or at the rate of (me pound up to four pounds, accord- 
ing to the size of the plants, in fifty gallons of water. 
When roses are growing rapidly the broadcast applica- 
tion can be repeated once a month, but a less frequent 
application will be better for small plants, or if there is 
but little growth. The liquid applications can be made 
much more frequently, but care should be taken not to 
use too large a quantity of nitrate of soda, or sulphate 
of potash, as, if applied in excessive quantities, they will 
check the growth and even kill the plants. When the 
ground bone has been scattered upon the surface and 
mixed with the soil, an excellent liquid fertilizer is 
made by placing one pound each of the nitrate of soda 
and of sulphate of potash in two hundred gallons of 
water, for young plants, which amount may be decreased 
to one hundred gallons of water when the plants become 
full grown, n,pplying at intervals of from two to four 



12 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

weeks. Tlie best time to fipply liquid manure is in tlic 
morning, when the beds are a little dry, as it will then 
be more evenly distributed through the soil. When 
nitrate of soda and suli)hate of potash are used as a top- 
dressing, one pound of each to two hundred scpiare feet 
of bed will be ample. 

Unleached wood ashes aflPord a desirable source for 
potash and phosphoric acid, and may be used at the 
rate of a bushel to two or three hundred square feet of 
bed. The potash will promote the development of firm, 
short-jointed wood, and, combined with the phosphoric 
acid, will favor the production of flowers. Many flo- 
rists still cling to the use of liquid fertilizers made from 
animal manures, and one of the best mixtures is com- 
posed of a peck of hen manure and a half bushel of 
sheep manure in one hundred gallons of water. The 
food contained in the few inches of soil in which roses 
are grown is soon exhausted, and it must be rejdaced in 
some way. The top-dressing of sheep or cow manui'e 
answers fairly well for this i)urpose, as well as for a 
mulch to keep the weeds clown after the roots of the 
roses have filled the soil so that stirring the surface will 
injure them, but it is unsightly, and keeps the surface 
wet and sour and prevents the ready access of the air to 
the roots, so that, although it is of much benefit during 
the summer months, it is a positive drawback during 
the winter. 

All fallen and diseased leaves should be removed 
and burned, and the surface of the bed should have an 
occasional stirring, to admit the air and to prevent the 
baking of the soil, but care should be taken not to dis- 
turb the roots. In addition to the other work men- 
tioned, it is desirable to be prepared at all times to fight 
insects and diseases. A description of the most trouble- 
some forms, and the treatment for them, will be found in 
another chapter. 



THE FORCING OF KOSES. 



13 



VARIETIES FOR FORCING. 

The varieties of roses that will be most profitable 
will depend, to a large extent, upon the character of 
the market, as well as upon the character of the soil 
available tor growing them in. To be profitable, a vari- 
ety should have a good constitution ; it should be a vigor- 



.^<iir3%^ 




FIG. 1. PRESIDENT CARNOT. 



ous grower, with strong, uprigiit stems ; the foliage 
should be of rich color and good substance, and free 
from any tendency to disease ; the flowers should be 
large and single on tlie stems, of a clear color, and in 



14 GUEENHOrSE MAXAGKMENT. 

the case of ilie rod sorts without any tendency to turn 
})urple. They sliould be double enough not to show the 
center, and tlie phmts should have a long and steady 
season of flowering. 

Among the varieties that are most commonly grown 
are Bride, Perle (des Jardins), Catherine Mermet and 
American Beauty. To these should be added Mad. Car- 
oline Testout, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, 
Mrs. W. C. AVhitney, Pres. Carnot (Fig. 1) and Meteor, 
of more recent introduction, which are fast coming into 
favor. 

American Beauty has no rival in its class, and its 
flowers are always in demand at good prices. Its flowers 
are rather small in summer and the petals soon take on 
a purple color, but wlien well grown it is a grand rose. 
Many growers who are successful with most sorts fail 
with this variety, which will only succeed with the very 
l)est of care. It needs a strong, stiff soil, and a temper- 
ature at as near sixty degrees as can be secured. 

Bride is the favorite white vai-iety. It also needs a 
rather heavy soil, and should be started early. The 
temperature for this sort is fifty-six degrees, or a little 
below. With close attention to ventilation, this is a 
very desirable sort. 

Mermet was for many years the best pink variety, but 
the fact that it is of a very light color during the dark 
days of winter, and, like the Bride, which is a sport from 
it, quite subject to mildew, has lessened its popularity. 
It requires the same care as Bride, and if given a low 
temperature at night, careful ventilation during the 
day, and if sheltered from cold drafts of air, it is still a 
desirable sort. Bridesmaid (Fig. 2), a i-ecent candidate 
for a place in the list of commercial varieties, is a little 
deeper pink than Mermet, and has the marked advantages 
of holding its color and being comparatively free from the 
attack of mildew. Wherever it lias been planted it is 



THE FORCIKG OF ROSES. 



15 




IG GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

tlie most popular pink sort, and it is rapidly supiilanting 
Mermet. It thrives at a medium temperature. 

Testout is anotlier variety with large flowers of a 
pure pink color. It is rather particular as to soil and 
care, and although a fair variety for winter when well 
grown, it is too single for summer use. Valuable for 
the amateur. It should have not less than sixty degrees 
and it likes a yellow loam soil. 

Meteor is one of the best red, everblooming roses, 
but to be successfullv orown it should have a house 
where a temperature of at least sixty-three degrees can 
be given, while it will luxuriate at sixty-five to sixty- 
eight. It is naturally quite likely to be attacked by 
mildew and red spider, unless great care is taken with 
the ventilation and syringing. 

Kaiserin is a good snmmer variety and has a long- 
season of flowering, but is generally considered a failure 
as a variety for winter flowering, as it is likely to take 
on a greenish-white color. 

Mrs. \V. C. Whitney is an early and a free flowering 
variety. It has an excellent foliage, is a vigorous 
grower and has long stems. Its flowers are large and 
full and of a pure, deep pink. 

American Belle is a sport from American Beauty, 
and where a sufliciently high price can be obtained it is 
a favorite variety. The flowers are very full and have a 
deep pink cohn- with a carmine shade. 

The new rose, Souvenir de Pres. Carnot, is making 
a very good impression. It is a very strong grower, 
with long, stiff stems. The flower is of a distinct shade 
of pink ; it is of a large size and has a sweet odor. It is 
claimed to flower freely, both indoors and out, and to 
be particularly valuable on account of its excellent 
keeping qualities. 

Of the other recent sorts that are being largely 
planted are Belle Siebrecht and Mrs. Pierpont Morgan. 



THE FORCING OF liOSES. IT 

Allhoimh it is claimed ])v some thut tlie former is sub- 
ject to black spot in tbc summer and fall, witb us it bas 
very handsome, clean foliage, and tbe flowers are large, 
full, very fragrant, and of a rich, deej) pink color. Its 
petals are ratlier tbick, and it is a good keeper. Witb 
some orowers the stems are inclined to be short and weak. 

Mrs. P. Morgan is a promising sport from Mad. 
Cusin. It is a stronger grower, a freer l)loomer, and 
the flowers are larger and darker. They are inclined to 
be irregular in shape and variable in color. Both of 
these roses will do well at about fifty-eight degrees. 
The latter is injured if the house is damp, and if dull 
weather comes when the house is wet from recent syr- 
inging, the results to the flowers may be serious unless 
the air can be dried. For this reason a steam heated 
house is desirable. 

For growing at low temperatures, among the best of 
the old kinds are Wootton for red, Perle as yellow. 
Bridesmaid as a large pink, and Mad. Cusin for small, 
with Bride, or Niphetos for white. 

Perle is perhaps more extensively grown than any 
other variety, and has no rival as a yellow sort. It 
requires a moderately light soil, not too rich in unde- 
composed manure, and an abundance of sunlight, with 
a temperature of about sixty degrees. If the soil is 
heavy, the houses should be at least two or three degrees 
warmer than this. If any or all of these conditions are 
not given, this variety is very apt to furnish what 
are known as "'buUbeads," and on this account many 
growers have become dissatisfied with it, but can find no 
other variety to compare with it. Care in securing a 
soil that is not too rich, and in keeping up a tempera- 
ture a little higher tban is required by most of the other 
sorts, will generally give satisfact(U'y results. 

Niphetos is an old white sort, but, excepting Bride, 
it has no equal, as it thrives and gives large numbers of 
2 



IS GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

flowers under conditions that wonld be far from suitable 
to most of the new sorts. It is a rather weak grower, 
and is well adapted for planting on the side benches. 
While it does well at quite a range of temperature, the 
hirgest and best flowers are obtained at rather less than 
fifty-eight, although the number will be increased at 
sixty to sixty- five degrees. 

La France was formerly a favorite, disputing with 
Mermet the right to first place as a pink sort, but both 
have, ill most establishments, had to give way to Brides- 
maid. It is quite subject to black spot, but with care- 
ful handling can be grown Avith success. 

Among the older sorts that are still much grown, 
where the market does not call for high priced flowers, 
are Bon Silene and Papa Gontier, carmine; Sunset, a 
strong-growing buif variety, and Duchess of Albany. 

Where the prices will not warrant the growing of 
Beauty, Papa Gontier may be used instead. It does 
best on shallow, raised benches, with fifty-five degrees or 
less at night, and with plenty of air on mild days. 
Larger buds are obtained on solid beds, but the number 
will be much less. After flowering, ajiply water spar- 
ingly, as otherwise the plants may drop their leaves. 

Souvenir de AVootton is also highly regarded by 
many who do not succeed with American Beauty. 

Of the other sorts. Madam Cusin and Madam de 
Watteville and Madam Hoste are still favorites in many 
establishments. 

In nearly all cases where raised beds are used, it is 
customary to throw out the plants after cropping them 
for one season, but if they have been planted late and 
have not been forced, some of the smaller sorts may be 
dried off and rested, and after a few weeks taken up, 
placed in small pots and kept in a shaded place until 
the roots have filled the pots, when they may be re- 
potted, or at once planted out in fresh soil upon the 



THE FORCING OF ROSES. 19' 

beds. As a rule, it will be better to replant with well- 
grown, young plants. 

When grown in solid beds, the same result is se- 
cured without taking them from the bed. The plants 
are dried off in May, so that they will rest, but not 
enough so that they will shrivel, and kept in this condi- 
tion for six weeks or two months. Tlie small wood 
should then be cut out, and the remaining branches 
headed back. A little of the surface soil can then be 
removed, if it can be done without disturbing the roots, 
and a rich mulch applied to the bed. Water should 
then be applied, but rather sparingly at first, so as to 
avoid saturating the soil before the growth has started. 
If properly handled, a heavy cut should be secured dur- 
ing the fall, and the results for the season will often- 
times be as great as could be obtained from new plants, 
while there will be quite a saving in the expense for the 
plants and for renewing the soil. Some of the most 
successful growers make a practice of carrying over 
about one-half of the plants each year. 

If they are to be replaced, as soon as they are past 
the period of profitable flowering, or when the beds are 
needed for re]3lanting, the plants should be removed 
and burned and the soil taken from the table. The 
benches should at once be repaired and made ready for 
new plants. It is well to paint all the woodwork of the 
benches and walls each year with a hot wash composed 
of equal parts of lime and cement, to wdiich a small 
quantity of salt has been added. This can be applied 
rapidly with a whitewash brush, and will help to pre- 
serve the lumber and destroy insects, besides improving 
the appearance of the interior of the house. If the 
plants have been troubled with fungi and insects, it will 
be well to burn a small quantity of sulphur, but it 
should not be done while there are i)lants in the adjoin- 
ing houses, as it will prove fatal to them as w^ell as to 



;3(i 



GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMEKT. 



the insects and the germs of the diseases. Nearly as 
good results can be obtained, however, without injury 
to the plants, if the sulphur is slowly evaporated over 
an oil stove. 

STAKING AND TKELLISING. 

When the plants have been in the beds for six weeks 
or two months, the growth will generally be sufficient 
to require staking. Most growers still tie with raffia to 
stakes of wood or bamboo, and by an occasional re-tying 
keep the shoots in place. The use of wire is, however. 




FIG. 3. WIRE TRELLIS FOR ROSES. 



becoming quite common, and rose growers have devised 
a variety of trellises for the i)urpose. One of the sim- 
plest of these consists of a No. 12 wire stretched about 
tliree feet above tlie bed over eacli row of plants (Fig. 2), 
to support stakes of No. 6 or No. 8 wire, to which the 
plants can be tied. Sometimes another wire is run 
lengthwise of the house along each row of plants, near 
the soil, and a smaller wire, fastened to this at the bot- 
tom and to the other wire at the top, can be used as a 
support for each plant. Still a third method is to run 



THE FORCING OF ROSES. 21 

about three wires (No. 12 galvanized) lengthwise of 
each row and one above the other at intervals of about 
one foot, the lower wire being about the same distance 
from the soil. The wires will need to be stretched and 
fastened at each end to a gas-pipe framework (Fig. 3), and 
supported at intervals of twenty-five feet with a lighter 
framework. 

Although there is considerable expense at first for 
the wires, it will be found very satisfactory, and in the 
end perhaps less expensive than any of the old methods. 
If desired, it will be a simple matter to so arrange the 
long wires that, when refilling the beds, they can be 
drawn up out of the way. 

FORCING HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 

When they can be brought into flower by Christmas 
or New Year's, the large flowers of this class of roses 
bring a large price, and they are then quite profitable. 
The care required is diffei'ent than for teas and for most 
hybrid teas, as the plants must make their growth and 
have a period of rest before flowering. Tiiey are gener- 
ally grown in solid beds, but sometimes boxes or pots 
are used. When grown in beds they should have thor- 
ough drainage with tiles, stones, or broken brick, ar- 
ranged in the same way as described for tea roses, and 
])rovided with eight or nine inches of rich compost. 
Although cuttings are often used, the largest blooms 
can be obtained when they are eitiier budded, or grafted, 
upon Manetti stocks. 

The plants should be set early enough so that they 
will complete their growth by the middle of July. 
They should be ripened off by gradually withholding 
water, and only giving them enough to keep the plants 
from wilting a»id shrivelling. By syringing morning 
and evening, the plants can often be kept from wilting 
without wetting the soil. Durino- rains the beds should 



22 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

be kepi dry, as, if the soil becomes saturated, rest will 
be prevented and the crop will be a failure. If in pots 
or boxes, they should be turned upon their sides during 
rains. From four to six weeks will generally be rest 
enough, and when growth has stopped, and the shoots 
have taken on a lighter color, they should be pruned, 
removing the weak shoots and cutting the strong ones 
back to sound wood and plump buds. After a few days, 
scrape off the top soil and replace with a fresh compost 
of equal parts of rotten sods and cow manure. Water 
thoroughly, and repeat when the soil becomes dry. 
Syringe every pleasant morning and give thorough ven- 
tilation, keeping the house at forty-seven to fifty degrees 
at night until the buds start. The temperature can 
then be raised at tlie rate of one or two degrees a week, 
with less ventilation after the leaves show. By the time 
the flower buds appear it sliould have reached fifty-four 
degrees, and should then be raised to fifty-five or fifty- 
six degrees, at which temperature the house should be 
kept until tlie plants are through flowering. Ventilate 
at sixty-two to sixty-five in the morning, but let the 
temperature run up to seventy-five degrees at noon. 
After the buds appear, the beds should be given a 
watering with liquid manure once or twice a week. 
If started by the first of October, they will flower for 
Christmas and New Year's. The later sorts can best 
be grown in pots or boxes, as they can then be left 
outside until the weather becomes severe, when they 
should be placed in a cool greenhouse and brought into 
heat as desired. 

Beds of hybrids are generally carried for several 
years, and require about the same care as the first year, 
except that the shoots are left somewhat longer and are 
bent over to promote the starting of side branches (Fig. 4). 
They can be held in place by stretching No. 14 galva- 
nized wire over each row at the hight of from one or two 



THE FORCING OF EOSES. 



23 




24 GREEJs^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

feet, according to the size of the j)lants, and tying the 
shoots to it. 

For the successful growing of hybrid roses in solid 
beds, the houses should be so arranged that the glass 
upon at least one side of the roof can be taken off. 
This should be done by the first of July, to assist them 
in ripening off, and if rain comes the roof should at once 
be replaced. As soon as the plants are pruned the glass 
should be replaced and a regular temperature maintained, 
if the plants are to flower at Christmas. 

ROSES IN POTS AND BOXES. 

If only a few plants are us 3d for forcing, they may 
be grown in nine-inch pots, or in long boxes six inches 
wide, and about the same depth. This method is par- 
ticularly desirable for hybrid perpetuals. The small 
plants should be grown the same as for tlie beds, and 
should receive their final shift not later than the first of 
July. The tea roses will do best if kept growing in the 
house, although some florists think it well to harden 
them by placing them out of doors when they are in 
eight- or nine-inch pots and plunging them to their 
rims in sand or coal ashes, the same as should be done 
with the hybrids. They will need frequent syringing, 
but care should be taken not to give enough water to 
the soil to admit of their becoming water-soaked. By 
the middle of August, the pots will be filled with roots, 
and the teas should l)e removed to a cold frame, or a 
cool house. 

The hybrids should be dried off, and will need the 
same attention as those in solid benches, until the wood 
becomes hard, when they should be pruned, and after 
being first placed in a cold frame, should be gradually 
brought in to heat. With the same care in watering, 
syringing nnd ventilating as is given the roses in the 
beds, thev will bloom l)v Christmas. A house of hybrid 
teas in bud is shown in Fio;. 5. 



THE FORCING OF ROSES. 



25 




26 GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEi^T. 

For early blooming, the best sorts are the well- 
known Gen. Jacqueminot, Anna de Diesbach, Mrs. John 
Laing and Magna Charta. For late sorts, in addition 
to the above, Gloire dc Margottin, Ulrich Brunner and 
Baroness Rothschild can be used, and with good care 
will give satisfaction. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE CARIS'ATION. 

Although the old garden pink and the carnation, or 
gillyflower, as it was called, have long been grown, tliere 
being over three hundred varieties as far back as 1G70, 
the florist's carnation of to-day is comparatively a mod- 
ern creation. The first real step in its development was 
made by Dalmais, of Lyons, France, some fifty years 
since, and they were further improved by Alegatiere, 
who, in 1866, developed varieties with stiff stems. 

The origination of new varieties has been taken up 
by quite a number of American florists, and they have 
met with remarkable success. The method pursued is 
by careful and systematic cross-fertilization. AVhen 
skilfully performed, perhaps fifty per cent of the seed- 
lings will give double flowers, and five per cent may 
have enough promise to warrant their further trial. 
The improvement is along the lines of size, shape, fra- 
grance and color of the flowers, the vigor and freedom 
of bloom in the plant, the length and stiffness of stem, 
and the perfection of the calyx ; and although much has 
been achieved, there is promise of great progress in the 
future. 

Within the past ten years the demand for carnation 
flowers has greatly increased, and this has led to the 



THE CARNATIOK. 27 

erection of many large establishments devoted almost 
entirely to growing them. We also find a considerable 
number of florists whose principal business is the grow- 
ing of hundreds of thousands of rooted cnttings and 
plants, for sale to other florists. The reason for the 
demand need not long be sought for, as it is very evident 
that the carnation, as a flower available the year round, 
has few, if any, equals. It is showy and attractive, its 
colors are well adapted for use in decoration and for 
personal adornment, it has a pleasing fragrance, and the 
flowers are far more lastino^ than those of the rose and 
most other plants, and these points in its favor, together 
with the fact that they are sold at a comparatively low 
price, have made it the 4)eople's flower, and led to the 
great growth in carnation culture. 

PROPAGATION". 

For ordinary greenhouse cultivation, the plants are 
generally started from cuttings as early as November or 
December, although with a favorable summer for their 
growth, strong plants can be obtained by the last of 
August from cuttings struck as late as March. If de- 
sired for summer blooming, they should be struck as 
early even as October, and if flowers are desired in the 
early fall, the making of the cuttings should not be de- 
layed after November. Another reason for making the 
cuttings so early is that at that time the plants are 
strong and vigorous, while later on they will be weak- 
ened by flower production, and by the forcing process to 
which they are subjected during the winter. 

As often propagated, it is not strange that varieties 
run out, but with proper care much can be done to pre- 
vent it, if the cuttings are rightly selected. Above all, 
they should not be made from plants that are in any 
way diseased or that have been flowering freely for a 
long period. The best cuttings are made from side 



;)8 



GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 



shoots of flowering stems, and it is a good plan not to 
})ull tlieni until the flowers have opened, as one can then 
tell what the flowers of the cuttings are likel}' to be. 

The portions used for cuttings should be Arm rather 
than soft and water}^, but should not be the Aveak, ])uny 
stems that weak plants often send out. While tlie best 
results can be secured from the suckers that form around 
the base of the plants, the strong pips along tlie sides of 
the stems may be used and will make good plants. 
These shoots may be pulled from the plants, and by i-e- 
moving some of the lower leaves the cuttings may be 





FIG. r>. TWO TYPES OF CARNATION fUTTINGS. 

prepared without the use of a knife. The terminal 
leaves, if very long, may be cut back (Fig. C). 

Cuttings may be rooted either in propagating beds 
or in boxes of sand. The bottom of the bed should be 
covered with a thin layer of cinders, or gravel, and 
about three inches of clean, sharp sand should then be 
put on. While it is not desirable to use sand that is 
very coarse or very fine, the character of the sand makes 
comparatively little difference, provided it is not of a 
quicksand nature and is free from organic matter. The 
sand should be compacted and thoroughly wet down, 



THE CARXA.TIOX. 20 

and the cuttings set in rows about two inches apart and 
three-quarters of an inch between the plants in tiie rows. 
After a row is in place, the soil should be firmly pressed 
about them, and a narrow groove made for another row. 
The cutting bed should be in a temperature of fifty 
to fifty-five degrees at night, while five to ten degrees of 
bottom heat are desirable but not necessary ; during the 
day the house should be tlioroughly ventilated and the 
temperature kept as near sixty degrees as possible. 
Unless the cutting bed is in a north-side house, into 
which no direct rays can enter, the cuttings will require 
shading from nine until three o'clock on sunny days, 
and should be kept rather close for at least the first 
Aveek. The cuttings should not be allowed to get dry, 
as, if the lower ends of the cuttings become parched, 
they may as well be thrown out. The beds should be 
sprinkled on bright mornings, and under favorable condi- 
tions roots will form in three or four weeks. 

POTTING OFF. 

As soon as the roots have developed, the plants 
should be placed in flats of good soil, or in beds, at 
intervals of two inches each way. Some growers find 
that it pays them to pot off the cuttings, using two-inch 
rose pots, while others greatly reduce the labor by keep- 
ing them in the cutting box until they are planted in 
the field. Very good results can be obtained by this 
method with late-struck cuttings, provided an inch of 
rich soil is placed in the bottom of the box, and covered 
with two inches of sand. After the roots have been 
formed in the sand, they will find their way into the 
soil below, and thus obtain nourishment until they are 
l^lanted out. After being boxed or potted off, the young- 
plants should be kept at a temperature of fifty degrees 
until they have become well established. If, during 
this time, any of the plants start to throw up a flower 



so GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

stalk, the center bud should be pulled out, or the plant 
pinched back, and all future attempts at flowering 
should be checked by pulliug out the terminal leaves 
from any plant that shows the least tendency towards it. 
As soon as the plants begin to thicken up, it is well 
to remove them to a cool house, or cold pit, where the 
temperature will be thirty-five to forty degrees. In the 
case of the December-struck cuttings, this will give 
them an opportunity to rest, and the plant will be less 
subject to disease than if kept growing continuously 
throughout the winter. At any rate, it is desirable that 
the young plants be estabhshed in the boxes by the first 
of March, that they may be removed to the cold frame 
early in April and become sufficiently liardened to be 
planted out between the 20th of April and the first of 
May. The planting time should be as early as the 
ground can be worked, and danger of severe frost is 
over. If taken at once from a greenhouse, they would 
be injured by the least frost, but if gradually hardened 
in a cold frame, a slight frost will not injure them. 

SOIL FOR CARNATIONS. 

Although in selecting a soil for planting out carna- 
tions, very light sand, heavy clay, or muck, should be 
avoided, almost any average loam soil adapted to the 
growing of vegetables will be suitable for the purpose. 
Given a congenial climate, and a medium heavy loam 
soil, with a proper supply of plant food, and an abun- 
dance of moisture, but with good drainage, there will be 
little trouble in growing carnations. The land should 
be well enriched with decomposed manure, and deeply 
plowed the previous fall, and in the spring plowed and 
dragged smooth. If manure cannot be readily obtained, 
one thousand pounds per acre of ground bone, or dis- 
solved bone black, will help out. The rows may be as 
narrow as one foot, or as wide as two and a half, or two 



THE CARKATIOK. 31 

feet and ten inches. If the smaller distance is nsed, 
every ninth row should not be planted, and the soil 
worked with a hand cultivator, while the larger spaces 
between the rows will admit of cultivation with a horse, 
which will greatly lessen the amount of hand labor re- 
quired, and where land is not high priced, this i^ractice 
should be employed whenever possible. 

PLANTING OUT AND CULTIVATION. 

Having marked out the rows at the distance fixed 
upon, the ground should be cross-marked at intervals of 
from ten to twelve inches, for the plants. In planting the 
carnations, they should be set deep enough so that they 
are held firmly in place. If this is neglected, the plants 
may be blown about and perhaps ruined, but care should 
be taken that they are not too deep, as, particularly if on 
wet, heavy soil, and in a wet season, they will be apt to rot 
at the collar. Among the other causes that may produce 
stem rot is injury in the cutting bed, and if at planting 
out time any of the cuttings appear injured, as often hap- 
pens from too much water with too high a temperature 
and too little air, they should not be planted. 

During the summer the plants should be frequently 
cultivated, thus both keeping the weeds down and, by 
breaking the crust, forming a mulch conserving the 
moisture. It is a good plan to stir the soil as soon as it 
is dry after every rain, and even if no rain has fallen 
and no weeds are in sight, a shallow cultivation once in 
four or five days during the summer will be of benefit 
to the plants. If the soil is poor, an occasional applica- 
tion of liquid manure, or bone meal is often desirable. 

The only additional care that they require is the 
pinching out of all flower stalks that start, as soon as 
four or five offshoots form at the base of the stem ; this 
should be discontinued by the middle of July on plants 
designed for early blooming, but on others may be kept 
up until the middle of August. 



l):2 GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMENT. 

On li"ht soils and in drv seasons irnojition Avill 1)0 
ol' great valne, but the mere wetting of the surface soil 
will often do more barm tban good. If irrigation is 
used at all, it sbould be sufficient to wet the soil to a 
depth of four or five inches, and the land should i-eceive 
a shallow cultivation before the surface has had time to 
bake. 

CARNATIOX HOUSES. 

Although the character of the house in which car- 
nations are grown has less to do with the success ob- 
tained than with the rose and some of the other crops, 
it will always be well to have the houses planned in 
such a way as to secure for the plants the most favorable 
conditions. While almost any shape of house will an- 
swer, it will be found of advantage to consider the con- 
ditions under which the plants are to be grown before 
making a selection. The principal demand and the 
highest price for the flowers is during the dark, dull 
weather of winter, and to secure blooms at that time it 
is desirable that the house be constructed with a light 
framework and large glass, and Avith such a pitch of the 
roof as will secure the most light and hetit from the sun. 
This will generally be secured in a three-quarter span 
house running east and west, and good results can be 
obtained either with a hmg slope, or with the short 
slope of the roof to the south (Fig. 7). AVhere a suit- 
able location can be secured, a form of house that was 
first designed for growing vegetables, with a lean-to roof 
and a width of from thirty-five t(» fifty feet, will be 
found well adai^ted to the carnation. If a slope to the 
south of about fifteen degrees can be secured, the roof 
can be given a slope of about twenty degrees, and the 
north wall will not be unduly hioh at the least width 
mentioned, but for greater widths the house can be built 
of a two-thirds span, or less, with from one-fourth to 
one-eighth of its roof sloping to the north. If the 



Tin: <'AI{KATIOX. 



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33 
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34: GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

thrce-qiiartcr span, witli abcnit one-third of the roof 
upon one side of the ridge, and the remainder on the 
other, is used, it will seldom be desirable to have the 
house much less than twenty feet wide. 

When tlie flowers are desired during the fall and 
early winter, it becomes necessary to plant the house 
early in the summer ; and to grow them successfully 
during the hot weather it is desirable that provision be 
made for the removal of part or all of the glass. Some 
houses for this purpose have the roof formed of hotbed 
sash, that can be quickly taken oil and replaced, while 
others have permanent sash bars, with butted glass held 
in place Avitli wooden caps, that permit a part of the 
glass to be removed during the summer. Other growers 
find it well to provide for a supply of blooms during the 
spring and early summer, and unless the plants are 
flowered in the beds from which chrysanthemums have 
been removed, as mentioned in another chapter, si)ecial 
houses will be needed. It will generally be well to get 
them well established in the fall, and to carry them 
through the winter in a state of rest, at a low tempera- 
ture. For this pur})ose, a north and south even-span 
house is desirable, and if one has an old style house with 
small glass and heavy framework, it can be put to no 
better use. 

If one is to build a house for carnations, it will be 
best to construct it after some of the forms first de- 
scribed, as, if at any time it is no longer desired for car- 
nations, it will be well adapted to a number of other 
crops. As the crop requires thorough ventilation, it 
will be well to have a continuous row of ventilators in 
the south wall, and at least one row at the ridge. 

GROWING THE PLANTS IN THE HOUSES. 

Some of the growers have adopted, with good suc- 
cess, the plan of growing the plants during the summer 



THE CARN^ATIOiq. 35 

in the houses in permanent beds, thus saving the trouble 
of transplanting, and they chiim tliat, as seems quite 
j)robable, the plants being saved from any check, they 
are less likely to be attacked by the various diseases to 
which this plant is subject. As the plants are more 
closely under the eyes of the florist, they are less likely 
to be neglected and a better growth can be secured, pro- 
vided the air can be kept sufficiently cool during the hot 
weather of summer. 

For growing plants in this way, it is desirable that 
the houses should be large and airy, and unless the sash 
can be removed from at least one side of the roof during 
the summer, abundant side ventilation should be pro- 
vided. The short-span-to-the-south houses seem well, 
adapted for this purpose, while the even span is prefer- 
able to the ordinary three-quarter span form. It is 
almost necessary that the benches be deep and solid. 
For a house twenty feet wide, no better arrangement 
can be made than that shown in Fig. 7, with two 
benches, each about seven feet wide, with walks at the 
center and at each side of the house. Sub-irrigation is 
especially desirable for the house-grown plants, and this 
can be readily arranged, according to the methods ex- 
plained elsewhere in these pages. 

It is even more desirable that proper soil should be 
provided than when they are first grown in the field. 
It should be not less than eight inches thick, and should 
consist of from one-half to two-thirds rotten sods, the 
balance being decomposed manure and sand, in propor- 
tion according to the character of the sods. The jolants 
may, if desired, be given one shift before they are 
planted out, but it is desirable that they be placed in 
the beds by the first of June. When there is a demand 
for flowers in the fall it is a good plan to plant in the 
open ground some of the early varieties, so that they 
can be covered with a frame when cold Aveather comes 



36 GEEEK^HOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 

in the fall. They will hloom freely for several months 
and the slight expense will be well repaid. 

BEDS AND BENCHES. 

The plants can be grown either in raised benches or 
in solid beds, which in either case will be about the 
same as described for the rose. If the latter are used, 
care should be taken to secure thorough drainage, but 
even then, unless great care is taken in watering, the 
crop will not be as early as on raised benches, although 
the flowers will be larger and have better stems, and the 
plants will give more blooms during the spring and 
summer. The bed can have its sides formed of plank, 
but it will be neater and cheaper in the end if cement or 
brick is used. Being near the level of the walks, it 
will be easier to get tlie soil upon them than on the 
benches, as the wheelbarrow can be run upon them. 
The bed also has the advantage of permitting the hold- 
ing of the flowers for several days ; the shallow bench, 
on the other hand, renders ])ossible the forcing of the 
flow^ers for a certain occasion. 

Unless there is some reason for wishing early flow- 
ers, the solid bed will be generally preferable, although 
it is a good plan to have a solid bed in the center of the 
house, with raised side benches. Fur the solid beds, 
about eight inches of soil will be required, while four or 
five inches will answer for the raised benches. The soil 
may vary, according to circumstances, but a good mix- 
ture is prepared from six parts of good garden loam and 
one part of decomposed manure. To this, if the soil is 
inclined to be heavy, may be added one part of sharp 
sand. For the shallow benches a larger proportion of 
manure is desirable. Another method of pre])aring the 
soil for the benches is to top-dress a piece of land early 
in the summer and turn it under, sowino- u])on it. in 
July, crimson clover at the rate of ten quarts to the acre, 



THE CARjq^ATIOl^. "37 

In severe climates rye may be used instead. Tliey 
should be turned under early in the spring, before they 
have formed their heads, and will supply the needed 
fiber to the soil. The land should be worked during 
the summer, and will be ready for filling the beds. A 
similar preparation of the soil, where the plants are to 
be set in the field, is a good practice. 

Our experiments with greenhouse sub-irrigation 
show that it has many advantages, which are explained 
under that heading. If early flowers are desired, they 
should be benched from the middle of July to the mid- 
dle of August, but to be successful the house should 
have ample ventilation. The first of September is as 
late as the benching of any of the plants intended for 
early winter use should be delayed, but good results 
may be secured from late flowering kinds if they are 
boxed off before severe frosts come, and are kept in deep 
cold frames until tlie chrysanthemums are out of the 
way, when they may be set in the beds, or if the boxes 
are deep the plants can be left in them. This is an 
excellent way of handling Hinze's White. 

It is desirable to have the planting ground near the 
houses, so that the plants maybe placed in hand-barrows 
and carried to the houses, but it the soil near by is not 
suitable it is better to go to some distance, as the plants 
can then be readily handled if placed in boxes, loaded 
on a wagon and drawn to the houses. If the soil will 
fall from the roots without breaking them, no attempt 
should be made to retain it, but if it clings to them it will 
be better to take up a ball of earth and place it in the bed, 
provided it is not unsuitable for use in the house. If the 
plants are growing in soil that has become baked, unless 
the land can be irrigated it will be necessary to delay 
planting until a rain comes to soften if. 

PLANTIKO THE HOUSES. 

Having filled the beds with soil, when the proper 
time comes for planting it is well, if one has but a few 



38 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

plants, to select ti dull day for the planting, or, if it 
does not come, the plants may be dug in the early morn- 
ing and placed away in the flats in some cool place until 
towards evening. With large numbers of plants this 
will not be possible. 

The distance required by the plants in the houses 
will dei:>end upon the variety, the size they have attained 
in the field, and on whether a large number of com- 
l^aratively small flowers is preferred to a smaller num- 
ber of large ones. For the former, plant so that 
they will touch, or eight or nine inches each way, 
while for large flowers have them at least a foot 
apart. Many growers prefer to have the long rows 
eight to ten inches apart, and those. across the beds 
from ten to twelve or more, thus giving a better chance 
to work the soil. 

Dig a good-sized hole with the hand or trowel, and 
set the plants about as deep as in the field, carefully 
si^reading out the roots and pressing the soil firmly 
about them. As soon as planted they should be thor- 
oughly watered, and in bright weather shaded for sev- 
eral days, but as soon as the plants have become estab- 
lished some or all of the shading should be removed, 
usinsf a stream of water and a scrub brush if whitewash 
has been used. As a temporary shading, nothing is 
better than to spray over the roof a thin mixture of 
water and clay, which can be readily removed. Daring 
hot weather it is well to leave every other row of the 
shading upon the roof. 

The houses will need thorough ventilation, although, 
upon the newly set plants, drafts of hot, dry air should 
be prevented. Even in severe winter weather, unless 
the houses are very open, a little air should be given for 
a short time each day. It is possible that one reason 
why such fine flowers are often grown in old, tumble- 
down houses, is that the cracks admit fresh air and let 



THE CARKATIOIs\ 89 

out the heat when the houses are neglected and are 
not opened. 

WATERIKG AND VEN'TILATIN G. 

Most carnations thrive best in a temperature at 
night of about fifty degrees, and althougli they will give 
quicker results at sixty degrees, the blooms will be small 
and the plants will be quickly exhausted, so that in the 
course of the season the number of the flowers will not 
be half as great as in the cooler house. On the other 
hand, when kept at forty or forty -five degrees the plants 
will flower later, but as few will be produced during the 
winter, they will be able to give quite a crop as the 
warm weather of spring comes on, at which time, how- 
ever, there is less call for them and the prices rule much 
lower than during the winter. During the day the tem- 
perature will be determined largely by that of the air 
outside aud the amount of sunshine, but in a clear day 
it can run up to sixty-five or seventy-five degrees with 
advantage, provided the air is on the houses. It will 
probably be well to hold down to those temperatures, if 
it can be done by ventilating the houses and not secure 
too much of a draft of cold air. Air should be given at 
fifty-five or sixty degrees, and this is high enough for 
the day temperature in dull weather. 

Until the plants have become established, they will 
take but little water from the soil, and, after the first 
wetting down of the bed, care should be taken not to 
add more until examination shows that it has become 
slightly dry, when another watering should be given, 
sufficient to wet down through the soil. This will be a 
good rule to follow throughout the year. After the 
plants are established, during the hot weather of Sep- 
tember and October, and during the spring, careful 
watching is often necessary to prevent the suifering of 
the plants from lack of water, as, ])articularly when 



40 GKEEJ^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

the heating pipes are under tlie benches, the roots may 
be in soil as dry as ashes, although the top soil may be 
quite wet. On the other hand, serious injury may occur 
when too much water is used, particularly on solid beds 
during- the dark days of winter, but if the above rule is 
observed, the danger of injury will be greatly reduced. 
The use of too much water, especially if accomi)anied 
by a high temperature, without ventilation, is likely to 
cause the development of galls upon the roots, and if 
numerous, the entire crop may be ruined, and it will 
often result in the rotting of the stems and lower leaves, 
even though the galls do not a})pear. 

On the other hand, water should be used freely in 
syringing the plants, wetting the soil as little as possible, 
for the first few days after planting, re})eating whenever 
the foliage becomes dry, and upon Avarni, bright days 
throughout the season, but it should only be done early 
ill the day, in order that the foliage may dry off, as, if 
it remains moist over night, it will invite the presence of 
the rust and other fungi. During dull weather the 
jdants should not be syringed, and care should be taken, 
when it becomes necessary to apply water to the soil, 
that it does not wet the foliage. If there is danger of 
the air becoming so dry as to invite the appearance of 
the red spider, water can be used freely on the walks 
and about the house, and in tliis way the needed mois- 
ture will be i)rovided. 

STAKING AND TRELLISING. 

As soon as the i)lants have become established, ar- 
rangements should be made for supporting them. For- 
merly wooden or cane stakes were used for the purpose, 
but they were not i\vm enough in the soil of shallow 
beds, and the ends ([uickly rotted off. In tying the 
stems to the stakes, they arc generally so drawn together 
that growth is hindered, and when it comes to cutting 



- THE CARNATION. 



41 



the flowers it often becomes necessary to cut tlie ties, in 
order to get the stems out unbroken. The same objec- 
tions, except the decay of the stakes, apply to the use of 




THE HOBAN StJPPOET. 
FIG 8. CARKATION SUPPORTS. 

rods of galvanized wire, ])nt witli tlie rods firmness can 
he secured by fastening them at tlie upper end to \vires 
stretched iiboye the bed, while the plants can be tied 



42 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

more loosely if two strikes are used to each plant, or, 
better yet, by bending No. 9 galvanized wire into the 
shape of a hairpin, a suj^port will be formed that answers 
fairly well. There are also a number of individual sup- 
ports that have been brought out, and in several in- 
stances patented, during the last two years. Their 
appearance is shown in Fig. 8. Several of them are of 
simple construction and are sold quite cheaply, so that 
in time they will be no more expensive than the perish- 
able wooden stakes. In most cases they are designed to 
keep the lower leaves off the soil, and also to support 
the flower stalks. Nearly all of them are preferable to 
the single stakes, but most of them confine the stems 
rather more closely than is desirable. 

The Lonsdale stake, with a single ring, is only 
adapted to small-growing, slender varieties, but this 
stake with two rings, or some of the other kinds with 
two or more, answers fairly well except for the strong- 
growing sorts, where some method that will suj^port 
them without confining them so closely Avill be better. 
The Iloran support shoAvn in Fig. 8 has the disadvan- 
tage of being expensive and of being easily disarranged, 
but it serves its purpose well. A home-made form, de- 
signed by a Detroit florist, has heavy galvanized wire 
for the bows at the ends, and to these smaller cross 
wires are fastened. Between them common twine is 
woven to support the leaves and stems, so that in a gen- 
eral way it is much like the Horan support. 

Among the first to experiment with carnation sup- 
ports was Fred Dorner, of Lafayette, Ind., who finally 
designed a support that has been extensively used by 
florists all over the country, and with slight modifica- 
tions has been found adapted to houses of strong-grow- 
ing varieties. He used, to support the lower leaves, 
galvanized wire chicken netting with a fine inesh (Fig. 
9), cut into strips eighteen or twenty inches in width. 



THE CARNATIOK. 



43 











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44 CtReenhouse m.\nagement. 

These are bent into an inverted Y slinpe;, well ronnded 
over the top, and rre j^hiced between the rows of ])lants 
crosswise of the bed. To support the flower stems, he 
stretches No. 12 galvanized wire lengthwise of the beds 
about a foot apart, and npon these weaves a diamond- 
shaped mesh with cotton twine, as is shown in tlie illus- 
tration (Fig. 10). Two men on opposite sides of tlie 
bed can pass the twine back and forth (piite rapidly, at 
the same time giving it a twist about each of tlie wires. 

The jn-incipal objection to the wire netting is that 
tlie meshes are so large that the stems often become 
tangled in them and are much crowded, and that it is 
somewhat lacking in stiifness to stand up well. To cor- 
rect these failings, several have tried galvanized wire 
lathing, which has a half-inch square mesh (Fig. 11), 
and find that it answers much better in both respects. 
Another modification is in the weaving to support the 
stems, where, instead of the diamond-shaped mesli with 
wires a foot or so apart, there is a No. 18 wire stretched 
lengthwise of the beds each side of every row of plants, 
and to hold the stems in place the other way, across the 
beds other wires or twine are placed, so as to form meshes 
from four to six inches square, through which the stems 
will grow. If this is placed six or eight inches above 
the top of the A-shaped lathing, it will hold the stems so 
loosely that it will be little hindrance in gathering flow- 
ers or cuttings. One of the advantages of the A-sliaped 
lathing is that it keeps the leaves from resting on the 
damp soil, and as the hose, when watering, can be held 
beneath it, there is little need of wetting the leaves, and 
thus the danger for disease is greatly reduced. By lift- 
ing the leaves from the bed it also permits the air to cir- 
culate and aids in the drving" out of the soil. 

Whether the individual rings or the wire lathing 
are used, the best results can only be secured when they 
are in jdace before the flower buds form, as then it will 



THE CARl^ATIOK. 



45 




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46 GREENHOUSE MAISTAGEMENT. 

be but little trouble to induce tliem to enter the rings 
or meshes as desired, while If they have fallen over and 
sprawled out over the bed before the supports are in 
place, it will be more difficult to secure stout stems and 
the desired straight upward growth. If they are early 
in place, little time will be required in training the 
stems, and the houses will present a very neat appear- 
ance. Before one decides what method of training to 
adopt, it will be well to visit houses in which the differ- 
ent forms are in use, or to experiment uj^on a small 
scale before investing largely in any of them. The best 
support is the one that offers least obstruction to han- 
dling the plants, cutting the flowers and working the 
soil. Their cheapness, durability and simplicity should 
also be considered. As stated above, the slender, up- 
right-growing varieties will be best supported by some 
of the methods first described, while the strong, rank- 
growing varieties will do better with the lathing and 
overhead mesh. If desired, the A-shaped netting can 
be used with the individual wire supports. 

DISBUDDING. 

While it will not pay for all localities and with all 
varieties, disbudding is almost essential for large mar- 
kets where there is strong competition and a demand at 
a good price for large, single flowers, on long and strong 
stems. Disbudding consists in the removal of all the 
flower buds upon a stem except the strongest one at the 
tip, or, as carnations are now used, a spray of three or 
four slightly smaller flowers is also desirable, and we can 
aid in its formation by pinching out the terminal bud 
and thus favoring the development of the side buds. 
If disbudding is to be practiced, the plants should be 
looked over once in t\vo weeks at most, and at the same 
time all needed tying and training of the shoots should 
be done. As a rule, growers who market their crops 



THE CART^ATTON^. 



47 




ttS GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMEXT. 

near home can grow their phmts under high culture 
and secure large flowers and long, stout stems, but if to 
be shipped long distances they will need to be growii 
with a firmer texture, that they may withstand hard 

usage. 

TOP-DRESSING AND LIQUID MANURING. 

The requirements of the crop will depend upon the 
character of the soil used for the l)eds. If composed of 
loam, stable manure and ground bone, the plants will be 
able to obtain food for several months, but by the first 
of November it will generally be well to apply ground 
])one to the surface of the bed, and from that time on 
to give the plants an application of liquid manure once 
in two weeks. The application of a peck of wood ashes 
to each hundred square feet of bed once in six or eight 
weeks will be especially desirable in giving strength to 
the stems. For the further discussion of the use of 
manures and fertilizers for carnations and otiier crops, 
the reader is referred to the chapter on that subject. 

GENERAL (ARE OF THE HOUSES. 

As soon as the plants have become established, the 
surface of the beds should be stirred, to keep down the 
weeds and to loosen it, that the growth of the roots may 
be stimulated and the food supply increased. This 
sliould be kept up during the season, but it should not 
be deep enough to injure the roots. All dead and dis- 
eased leaves shonld be picked off, and all litter removed 
from the beds. 

The carnation is less troubled by insects than most 
flowers. Tlie green fly is about the only one that will 
require especial treatment, and for this the usual rem- 
edies can be used. The danger of the appearance of 
insects and fungous diseases will be greatly reduced, pro- 
vided the conditions under which the plants are grown 
are suited to them; and if they are so handled that they 



THE CARNATIOK. 49 

receive nu check, the need of making use of innecticides 
and fungicides will l)e greatly lessened. 

The soil upon the shallow beds should be replaced 
each year, but upon deep, solid beds only the surface 
need be removed, as, unless it has become wet and sour, 
it will only require the addition of manure and a little 
fresh soil to grow another crop. If soil is hard to obtain 
for the beds, the old soil may be used again, if it is 
spread out thin and seeded with rye in August. By 
turning this under, and adding a good dressing of 
manure in the spring, it will be sweetened and supplied 
with the needed fiber and plant food. 

Among the trials of the carnation grower are the 
troubles known as the ''bursting of the calyx," and the 
"sleep of the carnation." The former is most common 
when the plants have been stimulated by high feeding, 
or grown at a high temperature and in a moist air. It 
is particularly likely to occur if the plants have pre- 
viously been kept quite cool. What is commonly known 
as ''sleep" in carnations may also be due to a variety of 
causes. Among them are sudden and extreme changes 
of temperature, too close, too hot, or too dry an atmos- 
phere, too much smoke, gas, lack of water, some injury 
to the roots, too much fertilizer, and anything else that 
can disturb the nutrition of the plant. 

VARIETtES. 

With the large number of seedlings that are brought 
out each year it is not probable that any list can be given 
that will be of permanent value, although in the points 
that go to make up a good carnation the following vari- 
eties stand quite high, and will probably be found valu- 
able for several years. The commercial grower will do 
best to confine himself, for the most part, to a few stand- 
ard sorts that he has tested, and which do well with his 
soil and care, but in order that he may kee]^ up with the 
4 



50 



GREEKHOUSE MAKAGEMEN^T. 



times and be ready to compete successfully, he should, 
each year, test a few of the more promising new vari- 
eties, to learn if they will be better for him than his old 
kinds. 

Of the older sorts, those most grown are the Lizzie 
McGowan and Silver Spray, white ; Daybreak and Wm. 




FIG 12. DAYBREAK CARNATIONS. 



Scott, pink; Portia and Stuart, red; and Goldfinch and 
Bouton d'Or, yellow. Formerly, tlie white sorts were 



THE CARI^ATIOK. 51 

grown in larger numbers than all other colors put 
together, but the increased use of the carnation, for pur- 
poses of decoration, has caused a very large demand for 
the varieties of the various shades of pink, and, as a 
result, the varieties of that color are now grown very 
extensively. Lizzie McGowan is the standard sort of its 
color ; it likes a light house, but does well on either 
beds or benches. The temperature should not be much 
below fifty degrees at night. As the plant is a slow 
grower, it should be planted early. It is a rather slen- 
der, upright grower, with large, regular, pure white 
flowers. Silver Spray is a desirable, early flowenng, 
white sort, coming in before the chrysanthemums. It 
sometimes 2)roduces defective flowers, but, as a rule, they 
are quite perfect, ujion long, stout stems. The plants 
bear freely, and the flowers keep well. 

Among the new sorts, the Ivory is particularly 
promising. The plant seems to be vigorous, productive 
and quite free from disease ; the flowers are a clear, 
ivory white, regular, and of a delicate fragrance ; the 
petals are large, well-fringed, and supported by a strong 
calyx and a stout, long stem. Among the other new 
sorts are Storm King and Alaska. 

Of the pink varieties, none have been more success- 
ful than Daybreak (Fig. 12). It is quite healthy, flow- 
ers freely, and the j^lants are strong and vigorous. It 
does best on a rather heavy soil and in solid beds, as it 
is less likely to burst its calyx and form side buds than 
when in shallow beds. The flowers are large, well- 
formed, of good color, and generally sell at the highest 
price. Wm. Scott is a good companion for the last 
variety. It has strong and healthy plants, and the flow- 
ers are large, regular, and even in color, and are borne 
on long, stout stems. The flowers are produced freely 
and have good keeping qualities. Of the other sorts. 
Mad. Diaz Albertini is one of the best. The flowers 



52 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



are larger tlian Daybreak, very double, and witb less 
tendency to fade. The growth is strong, close, and 
healthy, the stems are strong, the calyx seldom bursts 
and the flowers are very sweet scented, but in the hands 
of many growers it has the serious drawback of being a 
shy bearer. Of the other pink sorts, Grace Darling and 




FIG. 13. 



MKS. GEO. M. BRADT CAKNATION. 
DOKNER & .SON. 



INTRODUCED BY FRED 



Annie Pixley may be spoken of as having desirable 
features. 

Of the red or scarlet varieties, few stand better with 
most growers than Portia, which has a very strong and 
vigorous plant, and the flowers are of a good color and 
substance, on stout stems. While Stuart is perhaps not 
{is productive as Portia, the plants are very vigorous and 
bealthv, and the increased size of the flowers adds con- 



THE CAKXATIOX. o3 

siderably to its market value. Emily Piersou is a prom- 
ising late scarlet sort, and as the flowers, when well 
grown, are very large, they bring a high price. 

Of the yellow sorts, Goldfinch has a splendid plant, 
and has generally superseded Bouton d'Or and the older 
kinds. Mayor Pingree is a promising new variety. 

Helen Keller is one of the best of the variegated 
varieties, but it frequently is nearly a failure, and at 
best is not much in demand. Among the variegated 
kinds recently introduced, Mrs. Geo. M. Bradt (Fig. 13) 
is particularly worthy of trial. 

In addition to a long list of comparatively untested 
varieties, there are several sorts that are being largely 
planted, and which thus far seem very promising. 
Among them are Rose Queen, Bridesmaid, Meteor and 
Lizzie Gilbert. Uncle John, although very successfully 
grown by its originator and many others, has not been 
generally successful, and its culture is even now given 
up by many growers. Morello is a new dark red or 
maroon variety, with large, firm flowers on long, stout 
stems. It has a rich odor, and the plants seem healthy 
and prolific. Of the older varieties, Tidai Wave, Gar- 
field, Mrs. Fisher and Hinze's White are still grown 
extensively. 



CHAPTER III. 

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

For hundreds, if not thousands, of years, this plant 
has been lield in high esteem by the inhal)itants of China 
and Japan. In the hitter country, a festival is held in 
honor of this, the national flower, and the nobles, as 
well as the peasants, enter into the festivities. The 
highest of all Ja})anese decorations is the Imperial Order 
of the Chrysanthemum, which is only conferred upon 
persons of royal birth, or, in rare instances, upon the 
nobility, and is regarded as a high distinction, even by 
foreigners. 

The chrysanthemum was introduced into Europe 
about two hundred years ago, but was not generally 
esteemed until the first part of the present century. 
The first European seedlings were grown in 1827, and 
the interest excited at that time has been kept up, by 
the curiosity and admiration over the developments that 
have from time to time been made. The present cen- 
tury i:)robably covers the history of the chrysanthemum 
in America, and it is said that the first American seed- 
lings of any value were raised as recently as 1879, by Dr. 
Walcott, of Cambridge, Mass. Since that time the 
interest has rapidly increased, until it is now the favorite 
flower of its season. The attention gwen to developing; 
new varieties from seed has given us hundreds of kinds, 
many of which excel in size, color, and form the best 
that have been imported. Among those who haA^e done 
most to popularize the chrysanthemum by importation 
of the best Oriental and European seedlings, or by grow- 

54 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 55 

ing seedlings themselves, are Dr. H. P. Walcott of Mas- 
sachusetts, H. Waterer, Wm. K. Harris and Robert Craig 
of Pennsylyania, T. H. Spaulding, John N. May and 
Pitcher & Manda of New Jersey, John Thorpe and V. 
H. Hallock & Son of New York, Fewkes & Sons, and 
Wood Bros., of Massachusetts, E. G. Hill & Co., F. 
Dorner and H. AV. Rieman of Indiana, and Nathan 
Smith & Sons of Michigan. 

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 

New varieties are obtained by planting the seeds of 
the most promising sorts, and if the flowers have been 
cross-fertilized with pollen from plants of other desira- 
ble varieties, it is probable that some of the seedlings 
will show characteristics that will make them equal, or 
superior, to the parents. The per cent of plants that 
will show any value will be quite small, however, and 
perhaps nine-tenths of them will be discarded after one 
year's trial. The plants designed to be used as jjarents 
should be grown in small pots, and when the flowers 
develop, they should be placed in a dry room, Avhere 
there will be an abundance of sunlight and air. The 
largest and most perfect flowers should be selected, and 
all others removed as they develop. When the flowers 
are fully open, the rays should be cut with a pair of 
shears, just above the stamens and pistils. As soon as 
the pollen has ripened, it should be conveyed upon a 
camel's-hair brush, or a toothpick, to the stigmas of 
another plant. To secure the best results, this should 
be repeated for several days. It is thought by some that 
the flowers farthest from the center are most likely to 
produce good flowers. 

In selecting the parents, the objects to be attained 
should be kept in mind, and the choice should be care- 
fully made. If it is desired to know the exact parent- 
age, it is well to cover the flowers with paper or muslin 



56 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

sacks, for a few days before and after pollinating. 
While the seed is ripening, the plants should be kept 
quite dry, and if proper surroundings cannot be given to 
the plants, the stems may be cut off and placed where 
they will not be in moist air. The seedlings are grown 
much the same as those of other plants, and require, 
after being potted off, about the same care as those 
grown from cuttings. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 

The usual method of propagating chrysanthemums 
is by means of cuttings. If large plants are desired, 
they are started in January or February, but when large 
blooms are wanted for exhibition purposes, the cuttings 
are often started as late as May or June, and the plants 
are grown to single stems and allowed to develop but one 
flower. 

In order to grow healthy plants that will give large 
and fine flowers, strong and vigorous cuttings will be nec- 
essary, and they will be best if they are taken from 
plants that have not been forced. It is a good plan to 
select strong plants in the spring and 2)lant them out of 
doors as early as it is safe. From these stock plants, 
cuttings can be taken that will give good plants for sin- 
gle flow^ers. In the fall, take up the old plants, place in 
boxes, and keep until midwinter in a cold frame where 
they will not freeze. Then take into the house, and a 
large crop of excellent cuttings can be obtained. The 
earlier ones will be just the thing for pot plants and for 
planting out as stock plants. 

In April, another crop of cuttings should be taken. 
These will answer for six-inch pot plants, and for eitlier 
single stems or ^^sprays," to be planted in the houses for 
cut flowers. Another crop of cuttings can be taken in 
June, but it will be better to lake them from plants set 
in the open gi'ound, as recommended above. While most 



THE CHRYSAXTHEMUM. 57 

of the cuttings for late blooms slionld be struck about 
the first of June, the first or even the fifteenth of July 
will not be too late to secure good results, if they are 
properly handled. 

CAEE OF THE PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemums are grown by florists, either in 
beds or benches, Avhen the flowers alone are desired, but 
are to some extent grown in large pots, both as standard 
and bush plants, for purposes of decoration and for 
specimens, and in small pots for sale. The treatment 
required for each kind of plant is somewhat different. 
The bench and the bed both have their advocates for 
growing the flowers, but while some varieties seem to do 
better in one than in the other, it may, perhaps, be truly 
claimed that the plants in the bencljes are least likely to 
suffer from over-watering, while they will need greater 
care if they are to escape injury from neglect to water 
often enough, and good blooms can be obtained in either 
bench or bed. 

Unless top-dressing and liquid manuring are de- 
pended on to supply most of the plant food, the soil 
should be composed of about one part half-rotted cow 
manure and three parts thick sods, prepared as recom- 
mended for roses. If the soil is at all stiff, a small 
amount of sand should be added. At the bottom of the 
solid beds it is customary with many growers to place a 
layer of sods, with the grass side down, and cover them 
with about eight inches of the compost, while the bot- 
tom of the benches often has an inch of" rotten cow 
manure upon it, with from four to six inches of the pre- 
pared soil. The same, objections hold with this crop as 
with the rose, as to the excessive use of stable manure, and 
several growers are even now dispensing with the ma- 
nure and relying upon commercial fertilizers, prei)ared 
after special formulas, for the plant food needed by the 



58 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

crop. Their success has induced a very great interest in 
the matter. 

During the early part of the season, the flowers are 
grown either singly on the plants or as ^'sprays," but 
later on the plants are trained to a single stem with one 
flower at the top. The cuttings for early flowers should 
be struck as soon as the first of April, and other batches 
should follow at intervals up to the first of July, when 
the cuttings for the single stem plants can be struck. 
The best cuttings are obtained from shoots that are firm 
and that have short internodes. Slender and wiry shoots, 
and also the weak and watery ones, should be avoided. 
The cuttings should not be over three and a half inches 
long, with the leaves on the lower half removed and the 
others reduced one-half in size. They may be rooted in 
small pots, pans or boxes, although if many are grown a 
cutting bed is desirable. The cuttmgs are inserted about 
half their length, in rows two inches aj^art, and about 
one inch in the rows. While bottom heat will hasten 
their rooting, it is not necessary, and good results will 
be obtained if placed near the glass, at a temperature of 
fifty degrees, even without bottom heat. If particularly 
fine plants with large blooms are desired for exhibition 
purposes, the cuttings should be placed singly in small 
pots containing a mixture of sand and compost at the 
bottom, and sand at the top. 

When the roots are half an inch long they should 
be potted, as they will be less likely to wilt than if the 
roots have become longer and are broken in potting. 
Place in two and one-half-inch pots, using a compost of 
rotten sods, loam and sand. Keep at fifty to fifty-five 
degrees, and from this time never allow the plants to 
suffer for lack of water, food, air, or room. When the 
roots show through the soil, repot into the three and oue- 
half-inch size, using a little richer compost, and when 
the roots have filled the pots, have the beds or benches 



THE CHRYSAJSTTHEMUM. 



59 




GO GREENHOUSR MANAGEMEXT. 

ready and [)laiit out at once, wliich, for the first batch, 
shoiihl be tlie last of May or the first of June. Have the 
soil firmly pressed down upon the beds and just moist 
enough to work well. The distance for planting will 
depend something upon the number of flowers to be 
grown upon a plant. If more than one variety is grown 
in a bed, place the taller ones at the north end in a 
north and south house, so that they will not shade the 
others. As a rule, the rows across the beds are ten or 
twelve inches, and the plants eight inches in the rows 
when three or more flowers are grown to a plant, or six 
inches each way if the plants are to be grown to single 
stems. 

Water the plants thoroughly, and until they become 
established syringe them often, and shade the roof, using 
whitewash, or better, Avhite lead and naphtha, mixed so 
as to make a thin wash. Until the roots have taken 
hold, care will be necessary to keep the soil from becom- 
ing saturated. In about a week, give the surface a good 
stirring and if more than one flower is desired from a 
plant, pinch out the tip buds to make them branch. As 
the side buds ])ush out, rub them oif at once, unless sev- 
eral flowers are desired, when we should allow three or 
four to grow and rub off the others. If more than this 
number of buds is desired to a plant, pinch out the end 
buds in the side shoots wdien they have made a growth 
of two or three inches, and allow two shoots to start from 
each, rubbing off all others. 

trainijs^Ct and trellising. 

Arrangements should now be made for supporting 
the stems. This can be done in various ways (the train- 
ing to stakes is seen, in Fig. 14), but the best method is 
to run a wire (N"o. 18) above each of the rows and tie 
the stems to wire rods (No. 9, galvanized), the upper 
ends of which are fastened to the wire. Another method 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



01 




62 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

is to run three wires lengthwise of the bed, about a foot 
apjii't, the lowest one being one foot aboA^e the soil, and 
tie the stems to them. A third way is to run a No. 18 
wire along the surface of tlie bed and another three or 
four feet above it, and between these stretch jute or 
binder twine, to which the plants can be tied (Fig. 15). 

Tlie plants for the late crop can be planted at any 
time from the first to the middle of July, or even as late 
as the first of August, and will require the same care and 
will be grown in the same way, except that they do not 
need more than five or six inches each way, and the tip 
bud is not removed, but is allowed to grow and form a 
long, single stem, from which all side buds are removed 
as they start. The stems are supported as recommended 
above and the same attention in watering and syringing 
will be required. The surface of the soil should be 
stirred occasionally, taking pains not to dig deep enough 
to injure the roots ; and the suckers that start about the 
base of the plants should be twisted off with the fingers, 
or carefully cut off below the surface of the soil Avith a 
knife. 

The growth of the plants should be carefully 
watched and if, at any time, it seems to slacken, or if 
the plants take on a yellowish color and the wood 
hardens, it generally indicates that the plant food in the 
original soil is about exhausted and that a new supply is 
needed. Some growers apply it in a mulch of sheep or 
cow manure, Avhich both supplies food and prevents the 
evaporation of moisture from the surface. Provided it 
is not due to the use of an excess of water, the yellow 
color is often an evidence that the plants are suffering 
from a lack of potash. At any rate, the use of a peck 
of unleaclied wood ashes to each hundred square feet of 
the bench will be a good thing. Others apply soot, 
either broadcast upon the surface, or in water. The 
use of ground bone upon the surface of the bed in 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 08 

August, and again about tlic first of October, will be 
advisable. Li(iuid manures can also be used to advan- 
tage whenever the plants show the need of food, and it 
will always be well to use them freely once or twice a 
week, from the time the first flower buds show until 
they open enough to show the color of the flowers, when 
their use should be discontinued. 

On the other hand, there is danger from securing 
too soft and watery a growth, from the use of too much 
nitrogen in the manure, combined with an excessive 
amomit of water. This should be checked at once by 
slightly withholding the water, and by decreasing the 
amount of nitrogen supplied in the manure water. 
Aside from the thick and watery growth of the stems, 
the plants also show that they are growing too rapidly, 
by the appearance of their leaves, which are, in addition 
to being very large, thick and succulent, likely to become 
wrinkled and twisted. Until the growth has been 
checked and become hardened, the plant will not develop 
first-class flowers. Not only should the general appear- 
ance of the flowers be noted, but the needs of each plant 
should be considered, and it should be given more or less, 
or, perhaps, none at all, of the manure water. 

''takikg" the buds aitd disbudding. 

As soon as the flower buds show, the plants should 
be looked over every day or two, in order that the flower 
buds may be ''taken" at the proper time. This word is 
given to the choosing or the selection of the bud or buds 
upon a plant that is to flower, after which the others 
are removed. The buds may be either of two kinds, which 
have received the names of ''crown" and "terminal." 
The name "crown" is applied to a single bud at the end 
of a shoot, upon which all of the other buds are leaf 
buds, as seen in Fig. 10. Just below the jloioer bud are 
several leaf buds that will be likely to grow up and, as 



04 



GREENHOUSE MAN A GEMENT. 



it were, smother the crown biid unless they are removed. 
x\.s a rule, crown buds appear quite early in the season, 
and if they are taken then, they will not make good 
flowers, and even thongh it is thought best to use a 
crown hud (if one is formed before August 15), it will be 
better to remove the crown bud and all but one of the 
leaf buds below it. A shoot will be developed from 




FIG. 1(). CROWN BUD. 

this, which can be trained up and a "late crown" bud 
that it may form can be taken. Later in the season it 
will be likely to produce a terminal bud. As a rule, it 
will be better not to take any buds until towards the 
last of August for the early sorts, and from that time 
until the middle to the hist of September for the late 
kinds. The crown buds are preferred by English grow- 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



05 



ers, but except in special csisc.s are not iiiiicli used in 
America, as they are seldom I'ouud ou i)lants grown 
from late struck cuttings, and because, especially in the 
case of varieties that have very full flowers, they are 
likely to be imperfect, owing to the increased number of 
petals that they form. Another point against flowers 
from crown buds is that the leaves below the flower are 




FIG. 17. TERMINAL BTJD. 

small and scattering. In many cases the flowers from 
crown buds are larger and the stems are stouter. It can 
then be seen that they may be preferable in the case of 
varieties with weak stems, or thin flowers. 

The other buds that may be taken are known as 
"terminals," because they form at the ends of the stems. 
They can be distinguished from the crown buds by hav- 
5 



66 GREEN'HOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 

ing three or more flotoer bads below them on the 
stems, as seen in Fig. 17. As soon as these other buds 
have become large enough to admit of its being done 
readily, they shonld be removed. This can be easily 
done with the fingers, or, as some prefer, with a pen- 
knife, forceps, or pointed scissors. If in any way the 
bud becomes injured, the next best upon the stem should 
be taken and the others removed. It will be well to 
begin the disbudding at the end of the stem, so that if 
a bud is injured there will be one lower down that can 
be left to form a flower. The flowers from terminal 
buds will not require more than two-thirds as long a 
time to develop as crowns, but as crown buds often form 
from four to six weeks earlier than the terminals, upon 
some varieties it may sometimes be necessary to take an 
early crown bud, if needed for exhibition purposes ear- 
lier than they can be obtained from terminals ; and early 
crown buds are sometimes taken in the case of early 
varieties from which early flowers are desired, but except 
for these reasons, and for those above given, the termi- 
nal buds are generally taken. Terminal buds seldom 
are ready to be taken until the middle of September, 
but whenever they appear the remaining buds should be 
removed. 

Flowers for exhibitions need about the same care as 
those for sale, except that it will pay to start them a lit- 
tle earlier and to give them a more liberal space in the 
beds. 

SINGLE STEM PLANTS IN POTS. 

A convenient size, whether for exhibition, decoration, 
or for sale, is a single stem plant, either in a four-inch 
pot or a five-inch pan. These can be taken from the 
last batch of cuttings, and it is a common practice to 
pot off for this purpose any plants that have not been 
planted or sold. They will need exactly the same care 
as the single stem plants in the beds. Another method 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 67 

of growing single stem plants in pots is' to place from 
three to six in pots or pans of larger sizes. 

These plants being in pots will require greater care 
than those planted in the beds, to prevent their drying 
ont, and during the hot weather they should be watered 
at least twice daily, and should be syringed in the morn- 
ing and again in the afternoon of bright days. The 
pots can be kept in well-ventilated and partially shaded 
houses, or out of doors where they will not be likely to 
be neglected. Plunging them in coal ashes will lessen 
the danger of injury from the drying out of the soil, but 
at the same time it will increase the chance of harm 
coming to them from careless or excessive watering. 
Especial care should be taken to have the plants free 
from aphides at this time, and to secure it the houses 
should be given two or three thorough fumigations just 
before the buds open. While a light fumigation, if nec- 
essary, will not hurt the flowers, it will be better not to 
be obliged to use tobacco, either as smoke or as a spray, 

after this time. 

Particularly for the late flowers, the ventilators 
should be kept wide open during the day, but should 
be closed at night when the outside temperature drops 
below forty. If the house is damp, so that there is dan- 
ger of the moisture condensing on the flowers after they 
have opened, it will be well to have a little heat on the 
houses, and if necessary leave the upper ventilators a 
little open. Syringing should be done early enough to 
give the flowers time to dry off before night. 

SPECIMEN" POT PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemums are often grown in large pots for 
exhibition or decorative purposes. The cuttings are 
started about the first of March, and require the same 
care as those grown for planting in beds, instead of do- 
ing which, however, they are shifted until they are in 



68 gree:nhouse mak'agement, 

ten- or twelve-inch pots, as may be desired. With each 
sliift the amount of manure in the soil can be increased, 
until finally it is the same as used for the beds. When 
the plants are eight or ten inches high, according to the 
distance between the buds, the tip should be pinched 
out. This will cause the side shoots to develop, of 
which eight or ten should be allowed to grow. These 
should be evenly distributed around and along the cen- 
ter stem. When these are four or five inches long they 
should, in turn, be pinched back, and from two to four 
shoots allowed to form on each. While more shoots can 
be left if desired, a handsome plant will be formed from 
this number of shoots, and the flowers will be larger 
and finer than Avith a larger number. The pinching 
should be done not later than- the first of August, in 
order to give the plants time to develop their flower 
shoots and buds. If large flowers are desired, only one 
flower should be allowed to form on each shoot, all other 
buds being rubbed off as soon as they form. When the 
plants are disbudded, all injured and diseased leaves 
should be taken off, and a number of short stakes of 
galvanized wire should be set around the plant, to which 
the flower stems should be tied. In this way they can 
be trained to form a symmetrical plant. 

Plants in six- or eight-inch pots are also very useful, 
either for decoration or for sale. They will require 
about the care outlined above, except that they need not 
be started until April 1st. In order to form compact, 
shapely plants, the leader should be pinched lower, and 
not more than five to eight branches allowed to start. 

STAI^DARDS. 

As show plants and for exhibition, a few standards 
and half standards are grown. The former have bushy, 
or unibrella-shai)ed, tops at a hight of five or six feet 
upon a smooth, bare stem, while the stems of the latter 



THE CHRYSAKTHEMUM. G9 

are three or four feet high. These plants are grown 
from cuttings, generally suckers, started in December 
or January, and receive about the same care as the sin- 
gle stemmed plants. They are not stopped until the 
desired hight is reached, and the head then formed is 
trained as desired. While the greatest pains is taken to 
prevent the development of side shoots on the young 
l)lants, the foliage should be preserved, and not removed 
until the head is formed. 

FIELD CULTURE. 

When the plants are grown in the field, as is still 
sometimes practiced by amateurs, the soil should be 
thoroughly prepared, and enriched either with stable 
manure or commercial fertilizers. If well hardened in 
a cold frame, tne plants may be put out as so(m as dan- 
ger of severe frost is over, which will be by the middle 
of May in most localities. The plants, to be well grown, 
will require about the same care in pinching and train- 
ing as was described for the pot-grown plants. If side 
stakes are desired, they should be inserted near the stem 
of the plant, and incline outward. In this way they 
can be taken up with the ball of earth, and potted, with- 
out being disturbed. 

In dry seasons, it will be well to scatter a mulch 
along the rows, to keep the soil from drying out and, 
when water is used, to prevent baking. Whenever the 
soil seems dry, water should be given the plants, even- 
ing being the best time to apply it. If the soil has been 
properly enriched, no liquid manure need be given these 
plants while in the ground, but if they fail to make a 
satisfactory growth from a lack of plant food, a forkful 
of decomposed manure can be used to advantage around 
each plant. AA'hen water is applied, it will be washed 
out and carried down to the roots, where it will bo taken 
up and used by the plants. The ])lants should be taken 



70 GREEi^HOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 

np and potted by the first of August, and will need 
about the same attention as the plants that have not 
been planted out. 

STAKING THE POT PLANTS. 

All pot plants should be provided with a center 
stake, or wire rod, to which the main stem should be 
tied, and bush plants will need from three to seven, in 
order to keep the side shoots in place, and prevent them 
from breaking down. When perfect plants are desired 
for exhibition purposes, considerable attention is given 
to the training of the plants. Commencing at the time 
of the second pinching, the side shoots should be drawn 
into place and held there with loops of raffia. When 
pinched the next time, hoops or rings of wire can be 
fastened to the stakes, and the laterals can be tied to 
them. With large plants, a second, and even a third, 
rinsf will be found useful. 

LIQUID MANURE. 

As soon as the plants have become established in 
the beds, they should receive applications of liquid 
manure once a week until the flowers open, and the j^tot- 
grown plants will need this treatment, commencing the 
first of July. It is also well, as soon as the weather 
becomes hot and dry, to mulch the plants in the beds 
with an inch or so of cow or sheep manure, which will 
both hold the moisture and supply food for the growth 
of the plants. As the flower buds develop, there is par- 
ticular need of liquid manure, and if furnished freely it 
will increase the size and perfection of the flowers. 
When the buds open, and during the period of flower- 
ing, no manure should be given them, and great care 
should be taken in watering the plants. 

VARIETIES AND THEIR CLASSIFICATION. 

The work of crossing the varieties has been carried 
so far that it is hard to tell where one class ends and 



THE CHKYSAKTHEMUM. 71 

another begins. The usual classification takes into 
account the shape of the florets and the appearance of 
the blooms, and divides the chrysanthemums into In- 
curved, Reflexed, Japanese, Anemone, Japanese Anemone, 
PomjDon and Pompon Anemone. 

The incurved class is made up largely of Chinese 
varieties, which have broad, strap-shaped florets that are 
curved inward, and give the bloom a spherical or globu- 
lar form. As a rule, the florets are regularly arranged, 
and make a symmetrical bloom. The reflex class differs 
from the above in that the florets curve outward, and 
thus show only their inner face. A perfect flower of 
this group should have broad florets, a full center, and 
an even, symmetrical arrangement. As a rule, the florets 
overlap so closely that the blooms are quite flat. Cul- 
lingfordii may be taken as an example of this class. 

In the Japanese, the short tubular florets found in 
the incurved group are replaced by others that may be 
of almost any shape, length or size, flat, quilled, or 
fluted, short or long, straight or twisted, thread-like or 
ribbon-like. The group includes such sorts as Major 
Bonnaffon and Kioto, classed as Japanese incurved, and 
Viviand Morel as Japanese reflexed. 

The Anemone flowered class have in their disc or 
center, short quill-like florets, surrounded by rows of 
broad, flat florets forming a horizontal border. A Jap- 
anese section of this class has about the same variation 
in the character of the ray flowers as is found in the 
Japanese class itself. The Pompon group contains 
plants with small and regular, but quite close, blooms, 
that flower profusely. The florets are all the same, and 
form a globular bloom from one to two inches in diam- 
eter. They are quite hardy, and are among the best for 
the amateur. The Anemone Pompon class differs in 
having disc flowers that are quilled like those of the 
Anemone group. 



V2 



GREEirHOUSE MA:^AGEMENT. 



SELECTION^ OF VARIETIES. 

Among the things to be considered in a variety are 
tlie liabit and strengtli of the phmts, the character of 
the foliage and the color, size, shape and substance of 
the flowers. \'ery few of the kinds of five years ago are 
now grown to any extent, so great has been the improvc- 




FIO. 18. CHRYSANTHEMUM KItgKNK l>An.LKI)( >rZE. 

ment with this flower. For the ])i'odiR'ti()ii of cut flow- 
ers it is particularly desirable that such kinds be selected 
as will afford a sncces.^ion throughout the season. 
Although they are often in the market before the mid- 
dle of September, there is but little call before the first 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



73 



of October, but from that time until the close of the 
season one should be able to show plants in flower. 

Among the best of the very early kinds is Lady 
Fitzwigram, white ; following a few days later are Mar- 
quis de Montmort, a large early pink sort ; Mrs. E. G. 
Hill, a very handsome, large, pink variety, also Lady 




FIG. 19. CHRYSANTHKMUM MAYFLOWER. 

Plairfair, another desirable pink variety. Among the 
early yellow sorts are Marion Henderson, with a hand- 
some flower of good size :ind coloi" ; Miss M. M. John- 
son, with a full incurved golden yellow flower; Yellow 
Queen, Golden Wedding and H. L. Sunderbrucli, Glori- 
osum and Mrs. J. G. Whilldin are still valuable early 



74 



GBEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



yellow kinds. Of the new yellow varieties none is 
more promising than Modesto. It is of a pleasing shade 
of light yellow, and in form, size and ^^petallage" is 
quite satisfactory. 

Among the later yellow varieties are W. H. Lincoln, 
H. W. Rieman, Eugene Dailledouze (Fig. 18), Major 




FIG. 20. CHRYSANTHEMUM MRS. PERRIN. 

Bonnaffon and Mrs. F. L. Ames. Of the other white 
sorts, coming after Lady Fitzwigram, Autumn Bride is 
a very promising pure white variety, as are Mayflower 
(Fig. 19) and Mme. F. Bergman and Mrs. H. Robinson. 
Among the other well-known white sorts are Niveus, 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 



75 




FIG. 21. CHRYSANTHEMUM lOKA, GKOWK BY NATHAN SMITH «& SON, 

ADRIAN, MICH. 



7r; GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 

which has an excellent stem and foliage and very large 
liowers, and Queen, a splendid sort with ])erfect foliage 
and handsome liowers that keep remarkably well. Ivory, 
early, Minnie Wannamaker, medium, and Mrs. Jerome 
Jones, late, of the older kinds, are still valuable. Of the 
})ink kinds, Mrs. Perrin (Fig. 20) is a promising new 
variety, while lora (Fig. 21) has made an excellent im- 
])ression as an exhibition variety. Yiviand Morel holds 
a high place as an early variety, and Harry Balsley, 
although not good in plant, has a good color. V. H. Hal- 
lock, Eda Prass and Mrs. Bayard Cutting are also good. 

Among other sorts worthy of a place in a collection 
are Clinton Chalfant, Jos. H. White, Pres. W. R. Smith, 
Inter-Ocean, Georgienne Bramhall, Eldorado and Mutual 
Friend. Cullingfordii still deserves a place as a dark 
red, as does Hicks Arnold as a bronze. John Shrimp- 
ton has been well received as a maroon variety. The 
flower is of good size, color and form, and the stem is 
stiif and well clothed. The principal call is for white, 
pink and yellow flowers and of course the largest nnm- 
ber of plants should be of those colors. 

Some Ave or six years ago, Mrs. Al])heus Hardy, a 
white variety with its ray flowers studded with short 
hairy growths, and a year later Louis Boehmer, which 
differed in being of a dirty pink color, were introduced, 
but have found little favor, except as oddities, with flo- 
rists. In addition to tlie above, the class is now repre- 
sented by Miss Annie Manda, white, Wm. Falconer, 
pink, and W. A. Manda and Patrick Barry, yellow^, 
Avliich are improvements over the original varieties. 
Golden Hair and R. M. Gray are still later and better 
varieties. 

INSECTS AND DISEASES. 

In addition to the green aphis, chr3^santhemums are 
frequently infested with a black form. These can be 



THE VIOLET. 77 

destroyed by the same remedies us are used for the 
others, l)ut they are harder to keej) in check. Fre- 
((uently, when phiiits are grown in pots, the lower leaves 
are lost. This may be due to a variety of causes, such 
as crowding and lack of air, too much water, lack of 
frequent syringing, exposure to drying winds, etc.; and 
a remedy can he found by avoiding eacli and all of these 
things. We also find that the foliage often takes on an 
unhealthy color, which may be due from the plant being 
in too small a pot, lack of food, too much or too little 
water, crowding, or exposure to the wind. Having 
found the cause, the remedy will be a])parent. 

Whatever method of growing the plants is prac- 
ticed, the best results can only be obtained when strong 
cuttings are used, and when tlie plants are kept growing 
without a check from the time they are potted till they 
are through blooming. For the ^'Leaf Spot" and other 
fungous diseases, the plants should be sprayed with cop- 
2)er sulphate solution. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE VIOLET. 

Few of our greenhouse plants have so steadily 
maintained their hold upon public favor as has the mod- 
est violet. It is easily grown and is so generally useful 
that no florist can do without it. For the winter flow- 
ering of this plant, a greenhouse in wliich the night 
temperature will not be above forty-live degrees is desir- 
able, but tliey are often wintered in cold frames, and 
give an abundance of blooms ns tlie warm weather of 
spring comes on. If a greenhouse is not at one's dis- 
posal, the plants may be covered with a narrow frame, 



78 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



around which a wider and deeper one is placed. If the 
space between the frames is packed with horse manure, 
and the outer frame banked up with the same material, 
double sash, mats and shutters will keep out frost, 
except in very severe weather, and a fair crop can in 
this way be obtained. 

VIOLET HOUSES. 

While for the successful growing of violets certain 
requirements must be observed, the form of the house 
seems to be of less importance than with many other 




FIG. 22. NARROW VIOLET HOUSE. 



plants. Good results can be obtained in lean-to, even- 
span or three-quarter span houses, but, as a rule, if a 
house is to be constructed especially for this crop, an 
even-span house will generally be preferred. The prin- 
cipal objection to the three-quarter span house is the 
amount of strong sunlight that the plants are subjected 
to, owing to the exposure to the south. This can to some 
extent be corrected by good ventilation, and the form of 
house has the further advantage of being more generally 
adapted to other crops, in case the culture of the violet 
should at any time be given up. 



THE VIOLET. 




■ "-•?H '•■4 »^';v.''-'^ Si ■■-:-■■;' 









80 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

Ill tlie past, narrow houses from ten to twelve feet 
in width (Fig. 22) liave been most used, but those of 
recent construction are twenty feet and even wider. 
Among the requirements for a violet house are (1) ven- 
tilating arrangements that will furnish an abundance of 
fresh air. On this account, ventilators are necessary in 
each of the side walls of the house, as well as a row at 
the ridge. It will be desirable to have the houses stand. 
a little apart to secure this, as well as to prevent the 
lodging of the snow between the houses. (2) The 
houses should be so glazed as to avoid drip. For this 
reason a rather steep roof is desirable; the sash bars 
should be provided with drip grooves and the glazing 
should be carefully done. Use 14x14 or lOxlO inch 
glass, butted without i)utty, and held in place with a 
wooden cap. Take pains to lay the i)anes with the curve 
up and with the thick edge at the bottom. If carefully 
laid there will be little drip, although there will be 
rather more than when the glass is lapped and laid in 
putty. (3) Use wide, solid beds and have a walk along 
each wall Avhere it will occupy room of little value to 
the crop. Thus for a house twenty-two feet wide (Fig. 
23) we should have two beds each seven feet wide, and 
three walks, the center one being two feet and six inches, 
and the outer ones one foot and nine inches wide. If 
they are given proper attention in a house of this kind, 
the plants will do much better, and will be far less 
likely to be attacked by disease, than when grown in 
dugouts and other houses with heavy rafters, and covered 
with hotbed sashes that cause a large amount of drip. 

Most of the narrow (ten or twelve foot) houses that 
have been used for the violet have had two side beds and 
a center walk, but rather better results will be obtained 
with a bed in the center of the house seven or seven and 
(me-half feet wide, and a walk along either wall of the 
house (Fig. 24). 



THE VIOLET. 



81 



Some lijive fouiul less i rouble from s[)ot and other 
diseases when the })hints are ])hiced m the lionses early 
in the summer, without being* planted in the open 
around. It' this is done, it will be well to take out 
every third or fourth row of glass. Although sash 
h(uises are not desirable on account of the drip, they 
have the advantage of permitting the removal of the 
roof, and are very commonly used when the plants are 




TICr. '24. NARROW VIOLET HOUSE, IMPROVED. 

placed at once in the house w ithout being planted out of 
doors. 

The use of hot water for heating the house will be 
preferable, unless it is a part of a large range, when 
steam may be used. The piping should be sufficient to 
secure a temperature of forty degrees during the coldest 
weather. While a few degrees less than this would do 
no harm, it will be undesirable to have it go much 
higher, forty-five degrees being as high as the tempera- 
ture should be raised at night by fire heat. If it is 
likely to go above that degree, air should be given. 



82 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

While it will always be best to buy wrought iron pipe, 
if one has four-inch cast iron pipe on hand, a violet 
house will be a better place for it than one requiring a 
high tem^^erature. 

PROPAGATION. 

Violets are generally propagated from cuttings of 
the young shoots, although the old phmts are some- 
times divided. Care should be taken to select the cut- 
tings from healthy plants, and if only those from strong, 
vigorous plants, that have given large numbers of large, 
perfect flowers, are used, the tendency will be to develop 
an improved strain of the variety. On the other hand, 
if they are chosen at random, from plants that have 
been grown at a high temperature during an entire win- 
ter, it will not be strange if weak plants, that will 
quickly succumb to disease, are obtained. 

Cuttings may be made either in September or 
October, or in the spring. If made in the spring from 
plants that have been forced, they will have a weaker 
constitution than if taken from strong and vigorous 
plants. If made in September, the runners are cut off 
four or five inches long, and set in a bed of light, sandy 
soil. By carefully watering and shading them for a few 
days, they will soon take root. These plants, if covered 
with a cold frame and mulched with leaves, will be in 
excellent condition for planting out in the spring. In 
case old plants have been wintered in a cold frame, good 
cuttings can be obtained in the spring from them, but, 
lacking these, the plants in the greenhouse can be used 
as stock plants. The cuttings may be made the last of 
March or the first of April and placed in a cutting bed ; 
after rooting, they should be boxed or potted off in sandy 
soil, or, if the ground is moist, or so situated that it can 
be watered, they may be planted out without previous 
treatment. As a check at the time they are trans- 



THE VIOLET. 83 

planted /rom tlie field to the house has much to do with 
inviting the development of the violet disease, it is by 
many thought best to set the young plants at once in 
the greenhouse beds where they are to flower, and thus 
avoid the check that is likely to be incurred when they 
are grown in the field and then transplanted. 

SOIL AND PLANTING OUT. 

While violets will give good results upon almost any 
good soil, they will succeed best upon one that is moist, 
but well drained, and while heavy is not so stiff as to 
bake or crack. If the soil is naturally rich, the use of 
from five to ten pounds of ground bone to the square 
rod will give stronger and healthier plants than if they 
are grown with stable manure. 

The plants, when grown out of doors during the 
summer, should be set about nine or ten inches apart 
in the rows, which should be at intervals of twelve or 
fifteen inches, unless large numbers are grown, when 
they are better if placed thirty inches, so that they can 
be worked with the horse. The care required by them 
is simple, but they should not be neglected. The run- 
ners that start should be cut off, to cause the plants to 
thicken np, and if the summer is a dry one they should 
be mulched and, as a last resort, watered, a treatment 
that should suffice to keep down the red spider, which 
might otherwise trouble them; at any rate, frequent 
shallow cultivation should not be neglected. 

As fall approaches, the plants should be taken up 
and placed either in a cold frame or upon beds in the 
greenhouse. While some growers use six- or seven-inch 
pots, nearly all violet growers place them in beds, in 
which the soil is from five to eight inches deep, and 
composed of four parts of rotted sods to one part of cow 
manure. The beds, whether shallow or solid, should be 
raised above the level of the floor, so as to bring the 



84 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

plants near tlie glass, that they may have all of tlie light 
possible. The distance at which the plants shonld be 
placed in the beds varies from eight to ten inches, 
according to the strength of the plants. 

In case the soil in which the plants have been grown 
is light or exhausted, the ball may be broken and most 
of the soil shaken off, but if it is still worth using, the 
unbroken balls should be set in the bed, with the least 
possible disturbance. For a few days, the plants sliould 
be shaded and syringed frequently, with thorough ven- 
tilation, in order that the check from transplanting may 
be reduced as much as possible. All yellow and dis- 
eased leaves should be picked off as soon as the plants 
have become established. Great care should be taken 
that the temperature of the house does not get above 
forty -five degrees at night, although ten degrees more 
during the day will be desirable. Especially if some or 
all of the pipes are under the benches, great care should 
be taken in watering, as the soil at the bottom of the 
bed is likely to l)ecome dry, unless this is properly 
attended to. When surface watering is given, the water 
should be applied until the bed drips, and it should then 
be withheld until the bed begins to di-y. Particular 
attention should also be given to prevent any drip ui)on 
the plants or the bed itself. With good care, a house of 
violets should average twenty to thirty flowers per plant, 
and there are records of much larger crops. 

GROWLING THE PLANTS IN THE HOUSE. 

If the plants are to be grown in the beds in the 
house they should be in place by the middle of May, if 
not before. The soil for this purpose should be even 
richer than is re(piired for field-grown plants when they 
are set in the house, and in addition to the rich com]iost 
a liberal quantity of gronnd bone can l)e used to advan- 
tao-e. If an old solid bed is to be used, the surface 



THE A'lOLET. • 85 

should be taken olf and three or four inches of compost, 
composed of tliree parts of rotten sods and one part of 
decomposed cow mannre, added. 

While one strong plant in a place will generally 
make a good chimp, some growers use two or three. 
About once a week or ten days the surface of the bed 
should be loosened and all runners should be pinched 
off. In four or live months after the plants Avere set, 
strong plants will be formed and flowers will show. As 
the weather gets colder, and before severe frosts come, 
the sash should be placed on the house, but the arrange- 
ments for thorough ventilation should be ample, and it 
should at no time be neglected. 

Care should be taken to regulate the time of water- 
ing, to permit the plants to dry off before night. If 
they are syringed, it should be only early in the mo.rn- 
ing of bright days, and, so far as possible, the water 
should not be allowed to fall upon the leaves when it is 
applied to the soil. As sub-irrigation not only admits of 
applying the water without wetting the surface soil, but 
aids in keeping the foliage dry, it is especially desirable 
for this crop. 

For several years many growers have experienced 
considerable loss from what is known as the "violet dis- 
ease." Really, there are a half dozen diseases that 
attack the violet, any one of which may practically )"uin 
the crop. The * 'eel- worms" {Xematodes) also work 
havoc, particularly in poorly drained soil, by causing 
galls upon the roots. 

Tlie violet diseases are, undoubtedly, one and all, 
invited by unfavorable conditions of growth or sur- 
roundings. A superabundance of fresh stable manure 
might cause a soft watery growtli ; a high temperature 
and lono* continued forcinor would also weaken their 
vitality and render them easy victims. The real cause 
is that the spores (seeds) of the different diseases tind 



86 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

conditions favorable to their propagation and growth. 
Much can be done to hold them in check if the 
decayed leaves are frequently removed, and the germs 
destroyed. 

AVith healthy plants to start with, and with proi:>er 
care in watering and ventilating, the danger of the 
appearance of the various violet diseases will be greatly 
reduced, but if any of the plants show traces of any 
disease, the injured leaves should be pulled off and 
burned. The surface of the soil should also be occa- 
sionally stirred and all litter removed. 

The violet is troubled by few insects, the most trou- 
blesome being the aphis and red spider ; frequent fumiga- 
tion for the former, and syringing for the latter, should 
hold them in check. 

VARIETIES. 

Until recently the Marie Louise was more largely 
grown than all other varieties put together. It is of a 
rich, dark blue, with a whitish center. The flowers are 
large, firm, and quite fragrant. When healthy, it 
is vigorous and quite floriferous, but for several years 
many florists have been unable to grow it successfully, 
owing to its liability to the attack of some of the various 
diseases of the violet. 

Lady Hume Campbell has with many growers super- 
seded the above kind. The plants are strong, compact, 
and quite free from disease. The flowers are large, 
double, extremely fragrant, with long stems and of a 
light blue color. 

The Farquhar is a new sort that has been less thor- 
oughly tested, but the very highest claims are made for 
it so far as health, vigor and freedom of bloom, and the 
form, color and fragrance of the flowers are concerned. 

Swanley White is still the best of its color, but is 
little grown. 



THE VIOLET. 



87 



Recently there has been considerable interest in sin- 
gle varieties, as they are generally less subject to disease 
and are freer in flowering than the double sorts. They 
have little substance and are less called for than the 
double flowers. In Paris, however, they are all the rage 
and they may soon become the fashion in this country. 

California is among those most largely grown. It 
has large, rich green leaves that stand up well from the 




FIG. 25. SINGLE VIOLET, PRINCESS DE GALLES. 
Grown by Fred, Boulon, Sea Cliff, N. Y. 

ground. The flowers are large, of a rich, bluish purple 
color, and very fragrant. Flower stems long and stout. 
Thought by some to be identical with Mad. E. Arene. 

Luxonne has petals about the same size as those of 
the California, but they appear larger, as they open out 



88 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

flat. A freer bloomer, flowering from September until 
April. V 

Princess of Wales (de Galles) (Fig. 25), is rather 
smaller than Luxonne, quite free from disease and of a 
handsome violet color. 

Admiral Avellan has dark green leaves, and large 
reddish-purple flowers that are very fragrant and lasting. 



CHAPTER V. 

BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 

During the last ten years this class of plants has 
come to the front for winter forcing, and bulbs now 
stand next to the rose and carnation in the attention 
that is paid to them for this purpose. The kinds that 
are most commonly used are Roman Hyacinths, Lilies 
{Lilium Harrisli and cancUdnm), Narcissus of various 
kinds, Freesias, Tulips, Lily of the Valley and Callas. 
Although a few callas and tulips are grown in this 
country, most of the bulbs are imported during the 
summer and fall from Holland. 

As a rule, we may say that bulbs recpiire a rich loam 
soil, to which about one-fourth its bulk of sand has 
been added. The bulbs are imported as they ripen, and 
will be received at intervals from August to November. 
They should be at once potted off. Some growers pot 
about one-half of the bulbs as soon as they are received, 
and the others are kept from four to eight weeks, that 
they may be later in coming into flower, and thus give a 
succession. 

HYACINTHS, TULIPS AND NARCISSUS. 

The Roman hyacinths, tulips, narcissus and similar 
bulbs, when grown for cut flowers, are placed in shal- 



BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 



89 




00 GREENIIOrSE MAJ^AGEMENT. 

low l)oxcs (Fig. 3('>), that, are of a I'onvonienfc size for 
handling-, at a distance a])art e([ual to about twice their 
diameter, and so that they Avill just show above the sur- 
face. If desired for decoration, ratlun* than for cutting, 
they can be placed in pots or deep pans, of from fonr to 
six inches diameter, with smaller intervals between 
them. As soon as potted, the soil should be moistened, 
and they should then be placed where they can be kept 
cool, in order to give the roots an opj^ortunity to 
develop. If one has a cold pit they can be placed in 
that, but any well-drained spot out of doors, where they 
will be somewhat sheltered from tlie sun, will answer. 
The boxes and pots should be so placed that they can be 
readily covered with from three to four inches of coal 
ashes or sand. This will hold the moisture and keep 
them from drying out, but an inch or so of hay over the 
ashes will aid both in holding the moisture and in keep- 
ing them cool. If one does not have a cold pit, an 
empty cold frame can be used to store the bulbs in, and 
if this is not available, the boxes and pots should be so 
arranged that a frame can be placed about them as win- 
ter comes on. By covering them with sash, mats and 
shutters, the frost can be kept out. Hay or straw could 
be used for the same purj)ose, and is desirable for the 
early sorts, as it hastens their development, but they fre- 
quently attract mice and the bulbs may, as a conse- 
quence, be destroyed, so that it is not safe to use them 
for the late bulbs. As soon as the roots have filled the 
pots, the plants may be taken out. It is best to start 
only a j^art of them at a time, and these should be placed 
in a cool greenhouse near the glass, at first, and then 
removed to one where the temperature is at least sixty 
degrees. 

The Eoman hyacinths should be kei)t in :i frame for 
fully two months, but as a rule six weeks will sufhce for 
narcissus. If either, however, is placed in the forcing 



BULBS AND THETR CULTURE. 



91 




FIG. 27. 



house before tlic roots have made their growth, tlie 
flower stalk will be weak, and nothing will be gained, 
even in earliness. As a rule, the Roman hyacinths, and 
Early Roman and Paper White narcissus will be in 
bloom by the 15th to the 20th of 
December, and by bringing them in 
at intervals of ten days or two weeks, 
they can be had in bloom until the 
first of March, and even later, if de- 
sired. Tulips can be brought in be- 
fore Christmas, and 
by proper care in se- 
lection of varieties 
and in handling can 
be had in bloom all 
winter. Daffodils 
do not flower, as a 

DOUBLE DlTTOHj.^^lg bcforC Fcb- 
HYACINTHS. 

ruary. 

Dutch hyacinths (Fig. 27), which 
are so commonly grown for bedding pur- 
poses and for decoration, are not forced 
to any extent for their flowers. If de- 
sired for sale or to brighten up the 
houses, they should be grown exactly 
the same as the Roman hyacinth and 
tulips. The Roman hyacinth is still the 
favorite, and although the red and blue 
varieties are sometimes grown, the num- 
ber of white ones used exceeds both of fig- 28. improved 
the others a hundred fold. hyacinth glass. 

If good results are desired with Dutch hyacinths, it 
will pay to buy good bulbs of named sorts, and they will 
be found jirofitable if grown for retailing. The bulbs 
can be placed singly in five-inch pots, but they will be 
rather more attractive if from three to five are placed in 
a pan six or seven inches in diameter. 




0-3 



GREENHOUSE MAXAOEMRXT. 



When used as honso plants, hyacinths may he flow- 
ered in glasses made for the })nrpose. These consist of 
a flask to liohl water, with an enlargement at the toj), 
in which the bulb is placed so that it will barely touch 




FK;. '29. SIXGLK KAUI.Y Tl'LIl'S. 

the water. Roots will soon form and grow downward 
into the water. The glasses should be ke])t rather cool 
and out of the direct sunshine until (he roots have 
formed. An improved form of hyacinth glass is shown 



"BULBS .V5n^D their CULTURE. 03 

in Fig. 28. Tliis has an inner tube in wliicli the routs 
are confiiied. 

Of narcissus, the Paper White is the favorite with 
the florists. It is very easily forced and comes at a time 
when there is a scarcity of white flowers. The Early 
Roman and Yon Sion, Incomparable and Trumpet Major 
daffodils are most largely grown of the other kinds. 

The tulips (Fig. 29) are highly esteemed for their 
bright colors. They range in color from white and yel- 
low to rose, scarlet and crimson. The single sorts are 
generally used for forcing ; the Due Van Thol, being one 
of the best early sorts, is about the only one that 
can be brought into flower by Christmas. By the first 
to the middle of January such kinds as La Reine and 
White Pottebakker, white; La Belle Alliance, scarlet; 
Brilliant, vermilion ; Yellow Prince and Chrysolora, yel- 
low ; Rose Grrisdelin and Cottage Maid, pink ; Keizei- 
kroon and Joost van Yondel, striped, can be brought 
into flower. Among the later sorts, Murillo, double 
pink, and Tournesol, red and yellow, will be found 
desirable varieties for forcing. As a rule, the solid col- 
ors in tulips will be found preferable to the striped 
varieties. By bringing in the Due Yan Thol about the 
last of November and giving it seventy degrees, it will 
flower by Christmas. With this and other varieties 
that show a tendency to have short stems, marked ben- 
efits can be obtained if they are shaded with cheese 
cloth or some similar covering. These varieties are 
most esteemed for early winter and to follow them 
there is a long list of named sorts in solid colors or vari- 
egated. For other varieties of tulips and narcissus, the 
reader is referred to any of the bulb catalogues, that are 
issued each year. 

The crocus is also largely grown for purposes of sale 
or decoration. It requires the same care as the tulip, 
but is generally used to fill pans, or to border pans of 



94 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




FIG. 30. FKEESIA KEFKACTA ALBA. 



BULBS AND THEIR CULTURE. 95 

bulbs of otbcr kinds. The colors are wliite, yellow or 
purple, solid or striped. 

Freesias (Fig. 30) are generally placed in boxes at 
intervals during the autumn and kept upon a bench in 
a cool greenhouse, or in a pit, for five or six weeks, 
a'fter which they are gradually brought into heat. 

LILIES {Harrisii and ccmdiclum) 

The lilies require about the same care as the above 
mentioned bulbs. They are frequently placed in six- 
inch pots, or in boxes about five inches deep. The 
Lilium HarTisii or Easter Lily (Fig. 31) is sometimes 
received from Bermuda, where it is extensively grown, 
by the middle of July, but the bulbs are immature, and 
far better and about as early flowers will be obtained if 
they are given another month in which to develop. 

Even after the pots have become filled with roots, 
several months must pass before the flowers will develop. 
As soon as .the flower stalks start, the lilies should be 
placed in a cool house for a week or so, before being 
placed in the room where they are to be forced. A very 
high temperature is required to bring them in by Christ- 
mas, but from the middle of January until April, flow- 
ers can be had in abundance, if proper steps were taken 
to secure a succession. Those for Easter should be 
brought into the house from the lOtli to the 15th of 
November. 

Lilium candidum and Z. longiflorum require ex- 
actly the same care as the Bermuda lily, but they are 
stronger growers and do not force as readily. The 
bulbs of all the lilies are graded according to their diam- 
eter, the size ranging from twelve to eighteen centime- 
ters (5-7 inches) to thirty or thirty-five centimeters, or 
about twelve to fourteen inches in diameter. The sec- 
ond size, eight to ten inches, is generally used for 
forcing. 



!m; 



GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 



LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

Lily of the valley })ips are geuemlly imported from 
Hamburg, Germany, about the middle of October. 




FIG. 31. LILIUM HARRISII. 



When received, they should be packed away in the orig- 
inal bundles, in boxes of soil, and j)laced in some cool 



BULBS AXl) THKIll rifLTURE. 



97 



place to comi)lt'(o tlu'ir period of rest until about a 
month before they are to be flowered, when they should 
be placed about an iuch ai)art in boxes of sand or sandy 
loam, with the pips about half their length in the soil. 
They should be placed in partial shade (Fig. o'i), where 



r 



^ > 

> ^ 



> 

5C 




they can have a strong, bottom heat of nearly one hun- 
dred degrees. If tlie pii)s can be kept in a cool i)it, 
where the temperature is about thirty-five degrees, until 
readv for forcing, flowers can be obtained in three weeks, 



98 OREEIS^HOUSE MAN"AGEMEN"T. 

or even less. AVlien placed in a cold storage house, iliey 
can be kept for a jTar. Unlike other bulbs that are 
forced, they do not require to form roots before being 
bronglit into heat. 

THE TUBEROSE. 

The tuberose, some ten years ago, was extensively 
forced, but it receives little attention to-day for winter 
blooming. For spring flowering, the first lot may be 
l)laced in four-inch pots soon after Christmas, and 
plunged in damp sphagnum or sand, in a forcing house, 
where they will have a bottom heat of eighty degrees. 
A succession can be secured by starting others at inter- 
vals of three weeks. If designed for flowering in the 
fall, the bulbs should be kept in a cool ])lace, where 
they will be moist enough not to dry out, until August, 
when the first batch can be started, and with a second 
a few weeks later, flowers can be obtained from Novem- 
ber until January. 

CALLA. 

The calla is one of the easiest flowers to force, and 
it can generally be used to good advantage. The bulbs 
should be potted in August, having first rubbed off all 
suckers, and after receiving a good watering sliould be 
kept for a month in some cool place, where they will not 
be allowed to dry out. It requires a richer soil than 
most bulbs and delights in an abundance of water. A 
seven-inch pot will answer for a large bulb, and if a 
larger pot or tub is used, there should be several bulbs 
placed in it. As soon as the season of growth is over, 
the pots shouVd be placed on their sides, and kept in a 
cool, airy place, without water, for several months. 
Unlike the hyacinths and narcissus, the calla can be 
grown for several years without renewing the stock, 
although many florists prefer to purchase each year 



BULBS AXD THEIR CULTURE. 99 

bulbs grown in California. The Little Gem is a minia- 
ture calla that has many uses. 

Of the other bulbs, the lilies are the only ones that 
can be forced for a second year, after having had good culti- 
vation in the open ground for two years. While the others 
are worthless for forcing, or even for bedding, if good 
results are expected, the tulips, in particular, can be 
used to good advantage by planting them about the 
shrubbery, and under the edges of evergreens. 

OXALIS. 

Although not a florists' bulb exactly, the oxalis 
should be more commonly grown. The Boweii, red; 
Lutea, yellow; and Versicolor, red and white, are among 
the most desirable sorts as pot j^lants, or for hanging 
baskets, vases, etc. They have a decorative effect and 
find a ready sale. The bulbs should be planted in a 
rich, sandy compost in October, in small pots, and will 
require no care, except an occasional watering, until 
they have filled the pots, when they should be shifted 
into the four-inch size. 

The oxalis is well adapted for use in hanging baskets, 
window boxes and as a border for beds, as well as for use 
as a pot plant. The bulbs should be started at inter- 
vals during the fall, if a succession of bloom is desired. 
They may be planted where they are to flower, or the 
bulbs may be placed in three-inch pots and shifted to 
the beds or pots. A good bulb Avill fill a five-inch pot, 
or several may be placed in a large pot or pan. The 
oxalis does well at quite a range. of temperature, but 
about sixty degrees will give the best results. When 
through flowering, and the leaves begin to turn yellow, 
water should be gradually withheld. During the resting 
period the bulbs may be left in the pots, which should 
be turned on their sides in some place where they cannot 
become wet, or they may be taken out and kept in boxes. 



100 



GREENHOUSE MA.NAGEMEXT. 



CYCLAMEX. 

The cyclamen (Fig. 33) was formerl}' sown in the 
spring, but better results are obtained if the seed is 
planted in September. Tlie plants are kept in two-inch 
pots until March, when they should be placed in four- 
inch. About the middle of Mav. thev should be re- 




no. 33. CYCLAMEN. 

moved to a frame and, if well cared for, will be large 
enough for six-iuch pots by July. They should be cov- 
ered with cloth sash during the summer, but it should 
be raised to give thorough ventilation. 

During the summer the plants should be syringed 



BULBS AND THEIR CULTUKE. lOl 

if the weather is hot and dr} ., and they should have 
plenty of fresh air. Liquid manure should be given 
when the roots have filled the flowering pots. As cooler 
weather approaches keep a little closer and if the plants 
have been kept in a cold frame remove to a house where 
they can have some heat, if necessary to secure a warm, 
dry atmosphere. During the winter they should be 
kept at 55 or 60 degrees until through flowering. When 
the leaves begin to turn yellow induce rest by moving 
the plants to a cooler house and gradually withholding 
water. They should not be allowed to become dust dry 
so that the bulbs will shrivel. After a short rest the 
new leaf-stalks will begin to start and the bulbs should 
be repotted into four- or five-inch pots, using a light and 
open but rich compost, and giving thorough drainage. 
Repot when necessary up to six- or seven-inch pots and 
give the same care as the first year. 

FORCIJs^G THE GLADIOLUS. 

The gladiolus is coming into favor as a bulb for 
spring forcing. It can be grown with but little care, 
and the flowers will be even finer than those grown out 
of doors. The bulbs need to complete their period of 
rest before they are started into growth, and notliing 
will be gained by planting them before the last of 
December, unless bulbs are used that have been forced 
the previous year. They can be grown either in beds, 
boxes or pots, but one of the latter will generally be 
found preferable, as it admits of keeping them in a cool 
place until the roots have formed, which is desirable. 
They also do well planted out in tiie beds with carna- 
nations and even in rose houses, but it will be best to 
start them in pots and transplant them to the beds after 
the pots have become filled Avith the roots. 

They can be grown in the boxes about the same as 
Holland bulbs, using rather heavier and richer soil. 



102 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



The bulb should be barely covered with the soil, and as 
there is clanger of the damping off of the shoots if over- 
watered, it is a good plan to have the surface half-inch 




FIG. 34. GLADIOLUS MAY, ORIGINATED AND GROWN BY THE 
CUSHMAN GLADIOLUS CO. 

of sand. Water thoroughly and place under the 
benches, where the temperature will be fifty degrees, 



BULBS AIS'D THEIR CULTURE. 103 

until tlio roots have filled the soil ciiul the leaves have 
started. Grradually increase the heat to sixty and to seventy- 
five degrees. When the buds begin to form, give liquid 
manure once a week. If proj^erly handled, the flowers 
will be ready to cut by Easter. 

Among the best varieties for forcing are May (Fig. 
34), Buchanan and Shakespeare. 



CHAPTEE VI. 

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 

During the past ten years, few plants have increased 
in public favor more than the tuberous begonia (Fig. 
35). The plants are I'apidly propagated from seed, and 
can be grown as readily as geraniums, while for six 
months of the year they are resting and require no care. 
For pot or ont-of-door culture they have few superiors. 
The "tubers" can be purchased at reasonable rates, or they 
can be grown from seed. 

PROPAGATION. 

The seeds should l)e planted about February 1, in 
shallow flats or seed i)ans. The boxes or pans should be 
half filled with broken crocks or other drainage, upon 
which there should be about an inch of fine compost, 
composed of rotten sods, leaf mold and sharp sand. 
Moisten the soil and scatter the seeds quite thickly, 
cover with a thin layer of sifted sphagnum and fine, 
sand, using just enough to hold the seeds in place. 

To prevent the soil from drying out, cover the box 
with glass, paper, or, better yet, long fibers of sphag- 
num. Place out of the direct sunlight, in a moderate 
bottom heat, with a night temperature of sixty degrees. 
If glass is used, it is well to cover it with paper and to 



104 



GREE>^HOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 










,«>.. -.^Vv«j^^^ 




TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 



105 



keep it slightly raised, to afford ventilation. When the 
seeds have germinated, the sphagnum and pajier should 
be removed, and a close and warm atmosjihere should 
be avoided. As soon as the second leaves appear, they 




FIG. 36. SINOLE TUBEKOUS BEGONIA. 

should be pricked out in flats or i^ans, and from this 
time on they should never be allowed to stop in their 
growth. 



lOG GREENHOUSE MANAGKAIEKT. 

A good potting soil for the begonias is made of well- 
rotted fibrous sods, to which the same amount of a mix- 
ture of well-decomposed leaf mold, cow manure and 
sharp sand in equal parts is added. A little ground 




FIG. 37. DOUBl.fi TUBK1U)US HKGOXIA. 

bone will also be of value. As soon as the plants begin 
to crowd, they should be placed in pots, and should be 
repotted wdienever the pots are filled with roots. If 
desired, they may be grown in flats or in a cold frame 



TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 107 

during the summer. For the first few weeks, they 
should be kept in a narrow, low house, where thoy can 
be near the glass and with a temperature of sixty to 
sixty-five degrees. They should be shaded from tlie sun, 
and will be benefited by frequent applications of liquid 
manure. As the season for rest approaches, they should 
be gradually dried off, and stored where they will be 
dry, in a temperature of forty-five to fifty degrees. 
They can be kept in any frost-proof cellar. If the air 
is very dry, they should be jolaced in a box and covered 
with dry soil or sphagnum, to prevent shriveling. The 
tubers should be started into growth in March or April. 
They may be placed in small pots at once, or they may 
be started in shallow boxes filled with sphagnum. The 
first pots should be but little larger than the tubers, but 
the plants should be shifted as soon as the roots show 
the necessity. Good results can be obtained when the 
final shift is into seven-inch pots, but the best ])lants 
and largest blooms cannot be secured in less than ten- 
inch pots, and some go still larger. As a rule, it may 
be said that, for specimen plants (Figs. 36 and 37), the 
repotting should be kept up as often and as long as the 
roots fill the pots fairly wx*ll, and the larger the pots 
that can be filled with roots, the better the results. 

Throughout the season, frequent applications of 
liquid cow manure should be made, and if it is desired 
to grow them in small pots, they should be top-dressed 
with cow manure as soon as the roots fill the pot after 
the last shift. During the summer, when grown in a 
greenhouse, they require an abundance of light and air, 
but tlie best success cannot be obtained unless draughts 
of air and direct sunshine are avoided. The optimum 
temperature for growth is about sixty-five degrees, and 
during the summer the air should be cooled and kept 
moist, by frequently wetting down the walks. 

For out-of-door culture, the plants should be hard- 



lOS GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

ened in a cold fnniio, ;ind sliould Ix' ])la]iied out, eillier 
from flats or foiir-incli pots, as soon as djiiiger I'roni 
frost is over. They are particularly valuable for bed- 
ding, as they have no insect enemies, and are not injured 
by heavy rains. When they begin to ripen off, they 
should be taken np, dried so that the soil will shake off, 
and stored in a dry cellar. 

Of the named varieties, the following are recom- 
mended for growing in pots, by F. J. Meech & Sons, 
the well-known tnberous begonia specialists of Charle- 
voix, Mich. '^Double: Glow, bright scarlet; Incendie, 
flaming scarlet ; Triomphe de Nancy, creamy yellow ; 
Mrs. Windsor, shell pink; Marquis of Stafford, crim- 
son ; Mrs. Hall, white ; G. Bryceson, deep salmon ; 
Lafayette, cinnebar scarlet (the only one of its color) ; 
Mrs. Cornwallis AVest, very free, yellow ; A. F. Barron, 
deep pink ; Terre de Feu, deep rose, flowers very large 
and heavy ; Blanche Duval, creamy white, tipped blush." 
As the best single named sorts for bedding, Mr. Meech 
names: ^Trince of ^^ales, crimson scarlet; Norma, red- 
dish magenta ; Queen Victoria, rose ; and Mrs. F. A. 
Willard, cream center, blush outside." There are very 
few sorts that succeed better as bedders than selected 
seedlings of good strains. 

THE CANNA. 

Although most used for out-of-door bedding pur- 
poses, the canna is quite largely grown by florists in the 
greenhouse for purposes of propagation, and as a decora- 
tive plant. For the former, the plants may be started 
in midwinter, after they have had a short rest, first 
dividjng them so that there will be a strong bud u]ion 
each piece, by placing them in shallow beds of very rich, 
sandy compost, where they can be given sixty-five to 
seventy degrees with a good bottom heat. After the first 



THE GLOXINIA. 109 

tliorongli watering, tliey will require liUle more until 
they have begun to grow, after whicli it^ should be 
applied liberally. As soon as the new shoots that form 
have developed roots, they should be carefully taken off, 
and either placed in other beds to still further multiply, 
or they may be potted off. The same thing may be done 
with growing plants at any time, but the most common 
method is to plant in the open ground in the spring, 
and continue to divide the plants, as above, until the last 
of August, when those desired for winter propagation 
are taken up and planted in the greenhouse beds. This 
method of i)ropagation is, of course, used only with new 
and high-priced kinds. Ordinarily the '^roots'' are stored 
on racks, or in trays, in some place where it is neither 
very moist nor so dry that they will shrivel, and where a 
moderate temperature can be maintained. If well dried 
when stored for the winter, a warm potting shed, warm 
and dry cellar, or the space under the benches of a warm 
greenhouse, if out of the drip, will answer for them. 

For flowering in the greenhouse, dormant plants, or 
those at almost any period of growth, provided they 
have not been long in flower, may be placed in pots, 
tubs, or beds, and after forming roots will soon develop 
a number of strong shoots and supply s,n abundance of 
bloom. Among the best varieties for this purpose are 
the >vell-knowi> Madame Crozy, Florence Vaughan, 
Ohas. Henderson, Explorateur Crampbel, Alphonse 
Bouvier, Egandale, and Queen Charlotte, as well as the 
newer Italia, Austria and Burbank. 

THE GLOXINIA. (Smningia s2Wciosa.) 

Gloxinias are in nearly all colors, from light rose to 
dark purple, and in the better strains many of them are 
beautifully shaded and striped. As a house ]ilant for sum- 
mer blooming (Fig. o'S), or for greenhouse decoration 
(Fig. 39), the gloxinias have few if any superiors. They 
require little care, except in watering, and during the 



110 



GREEN"HOrSE MANAGEMENT. 




winter tlioy are dried off and packed away. Tliey are 
readily grown from seed or by means of leaf cuttings, 
but when only a few plants are required, it will be as 
well, even for the florist, to buy one-year '^dried roots.'' 
These should be potted in February or March, in three- 

or four-inch pots, according to 
their size, the top of the bulb being 
just level with the surface, and 
placed near the glass in a tem- 
perature of sixty degrees, where 
tliey will have a little bottom 
heat. Until the leaves start, 
very little water will be required, 
but from that time it should be 
gradually increased, giving the 
plants all they can use, as, if at 
any time they are allowed to wilt, 
the flowers will be much in- 
jured. Gloxinias do well in a 
compost of two parts of rott .n pasture sod and one part 
of well-rotted cow manure, to which enough sand is 
added to open up the soil. Instead of the rotten sods, 
equal ])arts of garden loam and leaf mold may be used. 
Thorough drainage should be given by filling the 
pots two- thirds full of charcoal, or broken crocks, cov- 
ered with a layer of sphagnum. As soon as the leaves 
extend beyond the edges of the pots, the j)lants should 
be sliifted to the five- or six-inch size, in which they can 
be flowered, or sold as house plants. If designed for use 
as cut flowers, they can be planted out from the small 
pots, or the boxes, in which they may be started, either 
on benches in the greenhouse or in frames outside, 
where much less care will be required. When thus 
grown, they should be mulched with sphagnum. 

During the season of growth, every precaution 
should be taken that thev do not receive a check. 



FIG. 



(;l()Xixia. 



THE GLOXINIA. 



Ill 




\\ liiK' lln' ;it inosjilu'iT slioiild l>r kc\H inoisi 1>\ >_vi'iiimiiu" 
till' walks ;iiul hi'iirlii's, i)M>rlu'ai| uaUUMiii;' or .svriuoiuo- 
of the plants slioulil he avi>iileil, as. if drops of water 
remain on the leaves thev will be s[)i)tled. ami their 
beauty will bvMiiarred, if thev are not entirely ilestroveil. 
(hi warm, bright morniniis a liiu' spray upon the leaves 
will soon evapi)rate, ami, while being benetii'ial to the 
|>lants. will do no harm. They shouhl. ai all times, lie 
sliaiieil from the direel sunlight, ami during the hottest 
part of the summer, in addition to the wash u})ou the 
glass, a. hith sereen. ov ehuh shaih* will be desirable. 
NiMuilation should be given in good weather, but strong 
draughts of air sliould be avoided. 

When kept near the glass, ami with proper iitten- 
tion to watering and ventilating, the gloxinia has few 
insect enemies, but if neglee'ted, tlu^ thrip and spider 
will be troublesome. The use of tobaeeo stems about 
the plants, and freipuMit light fumigations, will destroy 
the thrips, while the s]Mders ean best be fought by reg- 
ulating the moisture o\' the air. If onlv a few plants 
are grown, tlu^ infested leaves can be sponged. Should 
••rust" api^ear upon the leaves, the diseased portions 
must be eut otf and burneil. In ease it shows on the 
same plants u second year, it will be best to throw them 
away. 

Plants started in February should )>e in bloom from 
June or July until August and Se}>tember, and a siie- 
eession of plants will give tlowers until the chrysantlu- 
mums come in November. Aft^er the tlowers appear, 
tluMr season ean be prolonged if kept in a slightly lower 
tem}Hn*ature. As soon as the flowering })eriod is over, 
watering should be graduallv lessened until the leaves 
turn yelhnv, when it should be discontinued. Tin* 
loaves should then be eut otf, and the plants in the pots 
laid on their sides under the benches in a warm 
i\n)m, or they mav be shaken out and placed (dose 



FAXf'Y r'ALADTUMS. 11') 

to^vllicriii single layurs in boxes, <»r on .shelves, where 
they sliould be barely covered with sand, and kept in a 
cellar, or room, where the temperature will be about 
fifty-five or sixty degrees. In case anyone desires to 
raise the ^'bulbs" fnmi seed, the following brief directions 
may be of value : Sow the seeds in February in pans or 
in pots drained as above ; the soil should be the same as 
for the bulbs, except that no manure should be used ; 
cover lightly, and after syringing, shade and place in a 
room with a temperature of sixty-five or seventy degrees. 
The seeds will germinate in about two weeks, and the 
plants will then need careful attention to prevent damp- 
ing off. When large enough, they sliould be pricked 
out in flats, placed in a brisk bottom heat, and later on 
transferred to pots. Re-pot finally to the three-inch 
size, and give the same care as large plants ; by the end 
of July they should come into flower. When growth is 
over, they should be dried off and stored for winter. 

From a good strain of seed, one should be able to 
obtain a good collection of plants, but if it is desirable 
to propagate any particular variety, cuttings of the 
leaves should be taken soon after the plants finish flow- 
ering. If the petiole of a leaf, with the lower half of 
the blade attached, is set in the sand where it will have 
bottom heat, a bud will soon develop from wiiich a bulb 
will form. 

FANCY CALADIUMS. 

The so-called fancy caladiums (Fig. 40), occupy about 
the same place among the summer foliage plants as the 
gloxinias do among the flowering ones, and much the 
same reasons can be given for their popularity. Most of 
the varieties in cultivation are from (Jaladium Mrolor, a 
native of Brazil, and they naturally require a high tem- 
perature for their perfect development. 

They are readily propagated, by removing the 
8 



114 



GEEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



suckers that start out from the old tubers soon after 
they are brought into growtli, or by cutting the tubers 
into pieces, on each of wliich there is, at least, one bud. 
The cuttings can be left on until they have formed 
roots, but will start most readily if placed, with the cut- 
tings made from the old tubers, in sand in a propagat- 




FANCY CALADIUM. 



ing case, until roots have formed, when tliey can be 
potted off. 

AVhen the period of growth begins, which is about 
the first of March, the old bulbs can be potted off, using 
equal parts of rotten sods, leaf mold or j)eat, sand and 
cow manure. ^Fhere will be less risk, however, if, before 
they are potted, the bulbs are placed in sand, with bot- 



FANCY CALADIUMS. 115 

torn heat, until tlie roots have started. After the bulbs 
are potted, they sliould be kept at a temperature of six- 
ty-five degrees, with a little bottom heat. At first, lit- 
tle more than frequent syringing will be necessary, but 
after the leaves start the amount of water required will 
rapidly increase. 

They need partial shade, but if it is too dense, the 
color of the foliage will not come out well. Throughout 
the entire period of growth, they should not be allowed 
to suffer for lack of water, and the air should be kept 
moist by syringing. If given a mild bottom heat, 
growth will be hastened, and they will soon be ready for 
a shift. As a rule, a five- or six-inch pot will carry 
them through the season of growth, if free use is made 
of liquid manure, but some of the stronger bulbs may be 
grown to large specimens by potting them up to six- or 
seven-inch pots. If an early effect is desired, five or six 
of the bulbs may be placed in one large pot. 

Caladiums need ventilation and plenty of room. If 
properly hardened, they can be used in the conservatory 
or the sitting room, but they will not thrive with the 
temperature below fifty-five degrees. As the tempera- 
ture drops and autumn comes on, and the leaves begin 
to droop and die, the water should be gradually les- 
sened, until they are ready to be packed away for winter. 
This should be in some place where the temperature will 
not fall below fifty-five degrees. Even during the win- 
ter the water should not be entirely withheld, as, if 
kept too dry, rot at the center may ensue. Among the 
twelve best varieties are, Candidum, Chantinii, Clio, 
Leplay, Mad. A. Bleu, Mad. Marjolin Scheffer, Meyer- 
beer, Mons. A. Hardy, Princess of Teck, Reine Marie de 
Portugal, Reine Victoria and Triomphe de V Exposition. 
Owing to the fact that new forms are being constantly 
brought from Brazil and others obtained by crossing, 
any list is, at best, a temporary one. 



CHArrER VTT. 



OKLlllD CULTURE. 



As the requiromoiit:^ for the snecessfnl o-rowing- of 
orchids become better understood, tlie extent to which 
tliev are grown will rapidly increase; even now, they 
form a part of all large collections, and have quite an 
extensive sale as cut liowers. 

The orchids may be divided into two classes, the 
terrestrial and the epiphytal. To the first section 
belong such species as live upon, and draw llieir nour- 
ishment from, tlie ground. Others grow upon the 
trunks and branches of trees, or upon rocks. They 
thrive under varied conditions, some being on the 
branches of trees overhanging streams or pools of \vater, 
where the atuu)si>here is (piite damp, while others cling 
to rocks on the mountain side. Many kinds are found 
only in the toi)s of lofty trees, and some are generally on 
the trunks near the ground. Orchids have also been 
found at altitudes as high as 14,000 feet, but the jungle 
seems preferred by them, although many forms grow at 
an altitude of ".^OOO to 8000 feet. They are widely dis- 
tributed thrt)ugh the tropics, being found in great quan- 
tities upon both hemispheres, and man}^ handsome 
forms are found in the tomi)erate zones. 

The tropical orchids abound in Venezuela, New 
Grenada, Peru, Central America and as far north as 
Mexico. In the Eastern Ilemisjdiere, they are found in 
the East Indies, Australia, Ceylon ami Tiulia, and they 
are grouped according lo habitat into East Indian 
forms, which ilonrisli in a night temperature .of seventy 

116 



ORCHID CULTURE 117 

to seven iy-fivi3 degrees in siuumer, and sixty iu sixty-five 
degrees Jn winter, with about ten degrees liigher dui'ing 
the day; Brazilian a?id Mexican forms, with a night 
temperature of sixty-five to seventy degrees in summer, 
and sixty in winter, and the Peruvian orcliids, tluit do 
not need over fifty-five to sixty degrees at night in sum- 
mer, and forty-five to fifty degrees in Avinter; in eaeli 
case they may be ten degrees warmer during sunny days. 

In our treatment of orchids, we should endeavor to 
provide them with surroundings similar to those that 
they are aceustomed to, in a wild state. Many of the 
East Indian orchids are supplied with an abundance of 
moisture for a part of the year, during which they make 
their gi-owth, and rest during the dry season. As they 
grow upon tree tops and on the sides of mountains, they 
are fully exposed to all movements of the air, and from 
tliis their need of an abundance of fresh air can be 
readily seen. The Peruvian orchids, on the other hand, 
are found at high altitudes, where the climate is cool 
and moist, and the supply of water throughout the year is 
abundant. For such species, it will be seen, it would be im- 
proper to provide any extended period of drouth. While 
some of these plants grow in the full sunlight, others are 
found in the dense jungles, and will not stand the full 
sunshine, even of ourclinuite. ^I'he conditions under glass 
are, moreover, quite different from those in the open air 
just al)ove, and for most jdants, it is desirable to pro- 
vide some way of shading them, during the summer 
months. For this purpose, permanent shading, using 
some wash for the glass, rolling blinds, canvas or net- 
ting, may be used. 

Orchids are collected and sliip[)0(l to this country 
and Europe in large quantities, and can be purchased, 
while yet dormant, at comparatively low ])rices. Most 
of the im[)oi'ters are large growers of orchids, and, if 
desired, can furnish established plants, at prices rang- 



118 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEKT, 




OKCHID CULTURE. 119 

ing from less than one dollar for small plants .of com- 
mon varieties, to hundreds of dollars for rare ones. 

If dormant phmts are obtained, the dead and decay- 
ing portions should be cut off, and the healthy growths 
si)onged with some insecticidal solution, to destroy the 
scale and other insects that may be upon them. They 
may then either be placed npon sphagnum in a shaded 
portion of the house, where they should be kejit com- 
paratively dry until signs of growth appear, or in pots 
or baskets nearly filled with broken crocks, charcoal and 
other drainage. By the latter method, they can be 
watered more freely, and stronger growths can be ob- 
tained. As soon as the roots appear, the drainage 
should be covered with a mixture of fibrous peat, sphag- 
num, and finely broken crocks and charcoal. 

With many orchids, the plan of hanging them in 
the house with the roots up, for two or three weeks, is 
an excellent one, particularly with Phalaenopsis, Vanda, 
Aerides and similar genera, as it lessens the chance 
from decay, on account of water collecting between the 
leaves. Nearly all orchids should be kept in the shade 
until they have become established. 

ORCHIDS FOR BEGINNERS. 

In making a selection of orchids, Chve should be 
taken to choose species that are easy of culture, that are 
quite sure to flower, and that are ornamental. If kinds 
can be selected that are low priced, all the better. The 
appended list contains sorts that fulfill these require- 
ments. 

STOVE ORCHIDS 

Night, summer 75°, winter 65°. Day, summer 85°,winter 75°, 
Calanthe Veitchii. Cypripedium villosum. 

Cypripedium Boxallii. Dendrobium nobile. 

" caudatiim. " Wardianum. 

" Harrisianum. Oncidium papiHo. 

*' Lawrencianuni. Plialaenopsis ainabilis. 

** Spicerianum. (Fig. 42.) Stanhopea iusignis, 



120 



GREEKS HOUSE MA^^\GEMEKT. 




¥lO. 4J. CVPKlFKnUM Sl'U'KKI AM j>l. 

(Grown by ritoher & Mamlu, Short Hills, N. J.) 



ORCHID CULTURE. 121 



INTERMEDIATE ORCHIDS. 



Night, summer 65° to 70°, winter 55° to 60°. Day, summer 75° 

to 80°, winter 65° to 70°. 
Aerides odoratum. Laelia anceps. 

Cattleya Gaskelliana. " purpurata. 

" Mossise. Lycaste Skinneri. 

" Percivaliana. Phaius grandifolius. 

" Trianse. (Fig. 43.) Trichoi^ilia sua vis. 

Ccjelogyne ocellata. 

COOL HOUSE ORCHIDS. 

Night, summer 55° to 60°, winter 50°. Day, summer 65° to 70°, 

winter 55° to 60°. 
Cypripedium insigne. Odontoglossum Rossii majus. 

Epidendrum vitellinum majus. Oncidium tigrinum. 
MasdevalliaLindeni(Harryana). " unguiculatum. 
Odontoglossum grande. Zygopetalum Mackayi. 

" Pescatorei. 

"While a room is desirable for each group of orchids, 
it is not necessary, and good results can be obtained 
with all in one room, if the East Indian and other stove 
forms are placed at one end, which is kept quite warm, 
while the Mexican and Peruvian forms are grown at the 
other. Moreover, the classification is at best a provi- 
sional one, as some of the stove plants would thrive in an 
intermediate house, as would several of the cool house 
orchids. 

THE POTTIXG OF ORCHIDS. 

Orchids may be grown, according to their nature, 
upon pieces of bark or cork, or in baskets, pans or pots. 
The baskets are generally made of cypress or cherry, in 
a square or octagonal form, or as cylinders, boats, or 
rafts, as shown in Fig. 44. The mateiial is cut into 
strips about three-(|narters of an inch square and from 
four inches to a foot or more in length, according to the 
size of (lie plants. Holes are bored about half an inch from 
the end of each stick, and galvanized or copper No. 18 



1;>2 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



wire is run through them, binding them firmly together. 
Loops are made at the upper end of these wires, to Avhich 
the handles are fastened. 

For growing in pots, Cypripediums (Fig. 4:2), Cat- 




FIG. -13. CATTLEYA TKIAN/K. 



tleyas (Fig. 41), Aerides (Fig. 45), Lycaste, Oncidinms, 
Masdevallias, Epidendrums. La^lias, Pliala^nopsis, Van- 
das, Calantlies, Detidrohinms (Fig. 41), Tri- 
chopilias, Odontoglossums, Pliaius, Coelogynes and 



ORCHID CULTURE. 



123 



Zygopetalnms, may be selected. Many of them do fully 
as well, however, in orchid })ans, and, with the exception 
of Cypripediuni.s, Phaius, Lycaste, Coelogynes, Calan- 
thes, Masdevallias and Zygopetalnms, which are terres- 
trial orchids, baskets will' generally be fonnd better for 
them. Stanhopeas need an open pan or basket, while 
Cattleyas, Lselias, Phalaenopsis (Fig. 46), Vandas, Den- 









no. 44. ORCHID BASKETS. 



drobiums, Odontoglossoms, Epidendrums, and a few 
others may be grown in sphagnum, on rafts, or upon 
blocks of wood or cork, but they will require more atten- 
tion than if grown in baskets. The terrestrial forms, 
as enumerated above, should be grown in pots about one- 
third filled with broken crocks, over which a layer of 
sphagnum is spread; upon this the plants are placed in 



124 



GREE^N^HOITSE MANAGEMENT. 



a mixture of equal parts of good loam, ni)roiis peat, 
chopped s])liagnum, broken crocks and charcoal. Lycaste 
and Coelooyne are benefited by an admixture of sand, 
and Calantlie by chopped, sandy loam sods, while a lit- 
tle decomposed manure will be desirable for the others. 




FIG. 45. AERIDES SAVAOEANUM. 



The top of the soil should be a little helow the edge of 
the pot to aid in watering (Fig. 47, E). 

When epiphytal orchids, such as Ljfilias, Cattleyas, 
Phalsenopsis, Vandas, Dendrobiums, Odontoglossums 
and Aerides, are grown in pots, they should be nearly 
tilled with potsherds and covered with a layer of peat 
and sphagnum ; the plants placed upon this, with their 
roots covered with coarse peat and chopped spliagnum, 
should be held in place by pegs and stakes. If a small 



ORrHTD CULTURE. 125 

pot is inverted in tlie bottom of tlie large one, before the 
potslierds are put in, the drainage will be imi)roved and 
will be less likely to become sonr. 

For Vandas, Phalaenopsis and other true epiphytes, 
peat is not necessary. It wdl generally be advisable to 
raise the plant two or three inches above the top of the 
pot (Fig. 47, A, B and D), but in covering the roots, 
care should be taken not to raise the sphagnum much 
above i:he base of the pseudo-bulbs, as it might both 
cause decay and prevent development of the flower 
scapes. AViien orchids have been freshly potted, great 
care is necessary in watering until roots have been devel- 
oped. When orchids need repotting, as much of the 
old material as possible should be shaken off, without 
breaking the roots, and the plants then placed in pots as 
before. 

If plants are to be grown in baskets, the size selected 
should be as small as can well be used, and the basket- 
ing should be done in the same way as the potting, 
using coarse potsherds and sphagnum at the bottom, 
and filling up with fine potsherds and chopped sphagnum. 
The plants should be placed upon tiiis and the roots 
covered with sphagnum. For Cattleyas, Laelias, Den- 
drobiums and Odontoglossums, coarse chopped peat 
should be added to the compost, while for Aerides, 
Phalaenopsis and Vandas it is not used. 

Many of the true epiphytal orchids, such as Vandas, 
Aerides and Phalaenopsis, as well as Cattleyas, Laelias, 
Dendrobiums, Odontoglossums and Epidendrums, may 
[dso be grown u])on blocks of wood, rafts, cylinders and 
pieces of cork and bark, upon which they are bound 
with copper wire, the roots being covered with sphag- 
num, with which peat is mixed for the last five named. 

While there is much less danger from over-water- 
ing when these plants are upon blocks than when in 
baskets, it is also true that watering becomes necessary 



126 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



much more frequently, in order to prevent their drying 
out. For this reason, unless careful oversiglit is given 
the plants, the basket will be better tlian blocks and 
rafts, except, perhaps, for certain species of Epiden- 
Irum, Odontoglossum and Dendrobium. 




FIG. 46, PHAIi^NOPSIS GRANDIFLORA. 

The repotting of orchids is generally done just 
before growth commences. It should be performed 
annually in the case of Calanthe and Phaius, but a top- 
dressing will be all that most species require, until they 
outgrow their basket or pot. 



ORCHID CULTURE. 



127 



WATERINTt 0R(THIT)S. 

When the plants are starting- into growth, if the 
moss is kept saturated with frequent waterings, the new 
growths are liable to rot off, hence the moss should be 




FIO. 47. POTTIXG AND CRIBBING ORCHIDS (After R. M. (rrey) 
The dotted line upon the pots shows the amount of drainage used ni each case. 

kept only barely moist. As the growths develop, more 
water can be given, and towards the last of the season 
there need be no limit, provided the pots and baskets are 



I'i^ OREENTIOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

])roperly drjiiiu'd. If tlio plains nro ii]h)ii rafts (tr hlocki-?, 
they should \k' syriiii;x'd (wo or three times ii (hiy during 
the summer, and should be occasionally soaked by being 
dipped in water. Plants in baskets should receive sim- 
ilar treatment, and whenever they are dry in the morn- 
ing they should be dipped. It is an excellent plan, 
during the bright days of summer, to close the liouse by 
the middle of the afternoon and syringe the i)lants with 
a fine rose. By wetting down the walks once or twice 
a day, in hot weather, a moist atmosphere can be 
obtained, which will be favorable to the growth of the 
1)1 ants. 

Hai'd Avater should hot be used for orchids, and a 
cistern in which rain water can be caught is quite 
desirable. For use in winter, it is well to have a tank 
inside the house, so that the water will be of the same 
temperature as the plants. 

CARE DURING GROWTH. 

As a rule, orchids make their growth during the 
summer, and rest during the winter. When the season 
for growth approaches, the temperature should be raised 
ten degrees, and the air kept moist. Since the epiphy- 
tal orchids obtain most of their food from the air, 
tlinmgh their roots, an abundant supply of moisture 
should be maintained in the air so hmo- as o^rowth is 
made. During the middle of the day, it is well to dry 
out the atmosphere and admit fresh air by ventilation, 
when it can be done without unduly lowering the tem- 
perature. 

TREATMENT DURING RESTING STAGE. 

As winter approaches, the growths will harden, and 
the plants enter on tlieir period of rest, during which 
time the temperature should be lowered about ten de- 
grees, and maintained at the following temperature for 
winter: Stove orchids, night, G5°; dav, 75° to 80°. In- 



OROHTD (TLTURE. 1:^0 

termcdiate liouse orclii(l>>^, mj^li^? ''>5° (o (K)'^; diiy, 05'' 
to 70 '. C'oo] liousc oreliids ten degrees lowei". 

During the resting stage, the Cattleyas, Laelias, 
Dendrobinnis and similar forms, should be kept as dry 
as possible and not shrivel. On the other hand, several 
genera, such as Aerides, Vanda, Phalaenopsis and Zygo- 
petalum, keep up more or less growth during the winter, 
and should be given more water than the others and 
never allowed to become dry at the roots. 

The Dendrobinms and Calanthes of some species 
drop their leaves as soon as growth is over, and, in order 
to ri])en the growth, should be placed near the glass, 
and kept quite dry. Although the moisture should be 
withheld, during the winter, the atmosphere should not 
be allowed to become hot and dry, and on bright days 
the walks and tables should be wet (h)wn. 

MANAGEMENT DUKIKG BLOOM. 

There is quite a variety in the habit of bloom in 
orchids, as some forms like Lcelia anceps, Cattleya Tri- 
ancB, Calantlie, Ccelogxjne, Phaius and Cy2)ripedium 
i7isign€ bloom in December, during the resting period, 
while many bloom during the summer. When the blos- 
soms open, it is a good plan to remove the plants to a 
cooler house, as, in an atmosphere that is cool and dry, 
they will last much longer than in one that is hot and 
moist. If the droji is not more than ten degrees, no 
harm will be done to the plants, especially if the change 
is made gradually. If the blossoms are wet, in syring- 
ing, they soon become spotted and fade, hence no water 
should be allowed to fall on the flowers. 

From the fact that most orchids can be grown in 
baskets, and hang from the sash bars, where they take 
but little room, many florists are taking up orchid grow- 
ing for the sale of cut flowers, and find it very remuner- 
ative. 

9 



180 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

DISEASES, INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. 

The '^rot" and "spot" are among the worst diseases 
of the orchid. The former is caused by a superabundance 
of water at the roots, and the method of prevention is 
plain. If rot appears, the diseased portion should be 
cut away. Spot is most troublesome when rotting ma- 
nure, or similar material, is placed at the roots, 
although a sour compost, or overwatering, brings it on, 
especially if the house is kept closed. 

Slugs are among the worst enemies that the orchid 
grower has to contend with, as they sometimes eat off 
the soft flower stalks, and destroy the points of the new 
roots. They can be trapped by placing sliced potatoes 
on the benches, and the same thing will attract snails, 
wood lice, and roaches, although molasses and some form 
of poison is used for the last tw^o. It is always safe to 
place a little cotton batting around the base of the flower 
stalk, to protect it from its enemies. 

Various scale insects are also frequently trouble- 
some, and for these, as well as for mealy bugs, thrips, 
red spiders and similar insects, some insecticidal wash, 
as whale-oil soap, should be used. Strong tobacco water 
will also be quite effectual, as will fir tree oil. Kero- 
sene emulsion will also destroy the insects, and, if prop- 
erly prepared, will not injure the plants, although after 
a few hours it is well to wash it off. The other insects 
that attack orchids are the same as are troublesome to a 
great variety of plants, and similar remedies should be 
used. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

AZALEAS. {Azalea Indica.) 

As a rule, the azaleas used by the florist are im- 
ported from Europe. They are obtained in the fall, and 
should be potted at once and placed in a cool room, 
where they can be shaded for the first few days. While 
they should be watered sparingly at first, the frequent 
syringi)ig of the plants should not be neglected. Dur- 
ing the winter the plants should be kept in a cool house, 
and will need careful attention in watering, ventilating 
and fumigating. The amount of heat they will require 
will depend upon their condition, and the time the 
flowers are needed ; as a rule, 40 to 45 degrees at night, 
and ten degrees higher during the day, will be satisfac- 
tory. As the principal call for these plants is at Easter, 
most of them should be brought into flower at that time, 
but by taking a little pains to accelerate some plants and 
retard others, their development will be so distributed 
that they can be had in bloom for several months. 
While in flower, if in a cool house they will last longer. 
After flowering, they should not be neglected, as, if they 
are not given proper attention at this time, they will not 
make a satisfactory growth, and flower buds will not be 
formed. They should be ke})t in a partially shaded 
house until the middle or last of May, when, if settled 
weather has come, they should be plunged in some par- 
tially protected, but unshaded, place in light, well- 
drained soil. Marsh hay, or some similar material, will 
be desirable as a mulch to keep the roots cool and, 
unless they have been repotted, a thin covering of rotted 

LSI 



1 oo 



GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 



manure will be of advantage. Frequent watering and 
syringing will be necessary, but while they should not be 
allowed to get dry at the roots; care should be taken not 
to give them an excess of water, since, plunged as they 
are, it might be fatal to them. Good results can also 
be obtained in a well-ventilated and partially shaded 
greenhouse. 

For the use of the florist, at least one-half of the 
plants should be white and the others mostly pink or 




FIG. 48. AZALKA IN COMPACT FORM. 

salmon, although a few scarlet and variegated ones will 
be valuable in the collection. Deutsche Perle is one of 
the best early whites, and Bernhard Andrea alba will 
mIso be satisfactory. Vervasneana. Tmperatrice des Indes 
and Simon Mardner are among the best ])i)ik and rose 
sorts, while Cocarde Orange, scarlet, and IMme. C^amille 
Van [janghenhove, variegated, have shown up well. Aza- 



HYDRAN^GEAS. loo 

leas succeed well in a soil comi)osed of one part each of 
fibrous peat, rotten peat and garden loam, with the addi- 
tion of sand in proportion to the character of the soil. 
In Fig. 48 is shown a well-grown azalea, with a com])act 
head, while Fig. 49 shows a more open form, wliicli 
would be preferred by many. The principal enemies of 
the azalea are the red spider and thrip, for which reme- 
dies are given elsewhere, together with descriptions of 
the insects themselves. 

HYDRANGEAS. 

As a house plant, or for the florist, to be used for 
jiurposes of decoration, the hydrangea is always desir- 
able. Coming as it does at Easter, it can be used to 
good advantage for decoration, or in baskets or designs 
of cut flowers, and the sale of plants in five-, six-, or 
seven-inch pots is generally large, and at remunerative 
prices. As a rule, there will be a demand for the plants 
as late as May or June, which will enable the florist to 
clean out the plants that were late in coming into bloom. 
It is well to have the i)lantv^ out of the way as early as 
possible, in order to make room for other plants. 

Hydrangeas are readily propagated from half -hard 
cuttings, struck at any lime from Febi'uary to June ; for 
Easter sales they should be in the cutting bed as early as 
March. After being ])otted off they can be handled in 
various ways, that requiring least care being to plant 
them out as soon ;is the weather permits, in the open 
ground, where they should be mulched and watered if 
the season is dry. To secure hushy plants, they should 
be headed l)ack, and the branches pinched once ; late 
pinching will destroy the flower buds which should 
form the first season. As autumn approaches, they 
should be taken U]) and potted, using jiots of generous 
size. To ripen the wood, they should b(^ placed in cold 
frames, wheie they should have abundant ventilation, 



i:U 



GREENHOUSE MAN"AGEMENT. 



llic glass noino- roinovod on briglii (1;,ys. Thoroiioh 
ril>oiiino- is nooossiiry, if tlie best results aio desired. 

AVhoii iJK' weather gets cold, thev should be placed 
in a cool given house, or shouhl be i)acked away in a cool 
]>it, where they should be kept iu a dormant condition 
until January. About twelve weeks will be required to 
bring them into tlower, ami the time of starting them 
will depend upon the date at which Easter, or any other 



i 




« 






PH^ 


^^^^^^isF^vmi 


H^^^B^^^^Hk^Jfl 


p^^r 






F 


■ i J 




..M 



FU;. 4!). AZAl.KA WITH AN OPEN UKAD. 

occasion for which they are desired, comes. At first, 
they slumld be given 50 to 55 degrees at night : this may 
soon be laised to GO or 65 degrees, and even 70 degrees 
may be given, if necessary in order to brins: them into 
bloom in tinu\ After they are thoroughly started, the 
plants Avill use a large anumnt of water ami should not 
be stinted. When they hnve filled the jiots with roots, 
they should receive liijuid manure two or three times a 
week and a top-dressing of half an inch of well-rotted 



HYDKANGEAS. 



135 



manure will be of advantage to the plants. At no time 
during their growth should they be crowded as, for the 
best development, they need an abundance of room. 
In order to form a symmetrical ])lant, the branches 
sh(juld be staked, and if tlie shoots are too thick the 
weaker ones should be removed. In order to harden 
the plants, as soon as the flowers have expanded, they 




FIG. 50. HYDRANGEA OTAKSA. 

should be given a lower temperature and an abundance 
of air. 

Another method is to grow the plants in pots, 
plunged in the ground out of doors. Here they will 
require the same care as when planted in tlie ground, 
except that more attention to watering tliem should be 
given. By July they should be large enough to be shifted 



130 GREENHOUSE MAN^AGEMENT. 

to six-inch pots, and should then be headed ])ack, their 
final pinching being given in August. The cuttings made 
as late as June are best growu in a cool house, during the 
summer, either in pots or planted in the beds. If large 
specimeu plants are desired, they can be obtained by 
cutting back the old plants after flowering, and growing 
them another year. 

The best varieties are Hydrangea rosea, Otaksa (Fig. 
50), and Thos. Hogg. A red-branched variety is also 
quite ])opular as a house plant, but it does not force as 
well as the others. The Kosea is the earliest to flower, 
and is generally of a clear pink, although, like all of the 
others, its color is variable. Otaksa, with flesh colored 
flowers, is, perhaps, most grown by florists, as it is most 
in demand as a house plant. The Thos. Hogg is a white 
variety, and is especially desirable for Easter decora- 
tions. By the use of iron filings in the soil, or by apply- 
ing alum water, the flowers of this variety, and of 
Otaksa, take on a light blue color. Peat or soil con- 
taining iron, will have the same effect. 

If hydrangeas are kept dormant until March or 
April, they will come into flower in May or June, and 
Avill make excellent plants for the porch or veranda, and 
in tubs or vases can be used with good effect upon the 

lawn. 

CYTisus {Genista). 

Although this may be classed among the old-fashioned 
flowers, it is one of the most useful to the florist and 
is one of the best spring-blooming house plants. 
Cytisus (Genista) Oanariensis has, in the past, been most 
commonly grown by florists, but 0. racemosus is now 
taking its place; by some it is regarded as a distinct 
species, but it is quite likely only a garden variety. It 
differs from C. Canariensis in having longer and 
pointed leaflets and a longer i-aceme of larger flowers. 

Either form is readily propagated from cuttings 



CTTISUS. 



137 



taken off in February or March. They need only ordi- 
nary care, but should be kept in growth during the sum- 
mer. They may be planted in the open ground in May 
and left there until September, when they should be 
taken up and potted, or they may be placed in four-inch 



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FIG. 51. CYTISUS. 

pots and plunged. Tliey may also l)e grown in a cool, 
well-ventilated gi-eenhouse and sliould in any case be 
large enough to go into five- or six-inch pots by Septem- 
l)or. They naturally branch, but tliey can bo thickened 
up by pinching tliem in once or twn'ce. Some florists 



138 GREENHOUSE MA.NAGEMENT. 

even use sheep shears in cutting them back and thus pro- 
duce a dense head. If desired in a standard form, they 
can be so grown by selecting a strong plant, and train- 
ing it to a single stem to the hight desired and rubbing 
off all side shoots. It is then topped and a head formed. 
During the winter the plants are allowed to rest at 
a temperature of 45 or 50 degrees, until within seven or 
eight weeks of the time the flowers are desired, after 
which they will need 60 or 65 degrees. With proper 
handling, a plant can be kept in flower for two to four 
weeks, and a succession of bloom can be secured 
for six weeks or two months. After flowering, they 
should be given a partial rest for two or three months, 
when they should be repotted, and plunged out of doors. 
The after-treatment is the same as for small plants. 
An average sized potted plant is shown in Fig. 51. 

ARDisiA {Ardisia crenulata). 

This plant adds to an attractiveness in leaf and 
flower, that of showy red berries, which often hang on 
for a twelve-month. While it can be grown from half- 
hard cuttings during the summer, the use of seed is 
more simple and gives better plants. These should be 
sown in an open, sandy soil, and if placed in a stove 
temperature with a strong bottom heat, should germi- 
nate in two weeks. Although the seeds germinate thus 
readily, the seedlings are somewhat difficult to start into 
growth. The stronger ones should be potted off and 
kept rather close until they have become established. 
They should be kept growing until in four- or five-inch 
pots, and, as soon as these are filled, liquid manure should 
be given until the blossoms form. To aid them in set- 
ting their fruit, they should be kejit in a rather dry 
atmosphere and near the glass. If, after the fruits have 
set, they are kept at 45 or 50 degrees, they will last 
much longer. During their growth, they do best if kept 



GARDENIA. 139 

at a stove temperature during the summer, after which 
they will be best at 50 to 55 degrees until the period of 
growth begins in February, when the temperature should 
be raised. 

When the plants lose their lower leaves, if rested 
and then cut back and repotted, a new head can be 
formed. Young plants are, however, most satisfactory. 
The thick, waxy leaves of the Ardisia render it little 
subject to insect attacks, although the scale and mealy 
bug are sometimes troublesome ; they readily yield, how- 
ever, to the usual remedies. 

THE GARDENIA ( Gardenia florida). 

When grown in a warm, moist atmosphere, and 
kept free from scale, mealy bugs and other insects, this 
plant, with its profusion of white, waxy flowers, with 
their unequalled fragrance, and shining, gi-een leaves, is 
certainly worthy of admiration. It is readily propagated 
from half-hard cuttings under a handglass, or in a propa- 
gating case, with strong bottom heat. The rooted cut- 
tings should be potted in fibrous, sandy soil, and should 
be gradually hardened, but to avoid a check they should 
be kept at a stove temperature with bottom heat. They 
like a peaty, fibrous soil with an admixture of sand, and, 
with proper attention in the way of watering and repot- 
ting, cuttings struck in the early winter will make 
strong plants in one season. During their growth, the 
water supply should not be stinted, and frequent spray- 
ings should be given. When the growth is completed, 
they should be allowed to ripen their wood, and then 
receive a partial rest by restricting their heat and mois- 
ture. Young plants, at most two years old, should be 
used, and it will not pay to attempt to recuperate a 
stunted plant. Gardenias are quite subject to the attack 
of some of the more common greenhouse insects, such as 
the red spider and scale, but with proper care they will 



14(1 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



not be troublesome. If tliey make tlioir aj)pearance the 
ordinary remedies eaii be useil. 

THE FORCING OF HARDY PLANTS. 

Although this is a comparatiyely new industry, it is 
worthy the attention of every retail florist, as the flowers 




from many of the hardy plants have much merit for 
cutting, in themselves, and, what is of fully as mucli 
importance, they are a new thing and out of season, and 



FORCINT, OF HARDY ]>LANTS. 141 

are likely to be mneh soiig'lit after, if properly brought 
to the attention of the pal)lie. 

A considerable immber of the hardy shrubs are well 
adapted for forcing, but the best results will be obtained 
from those that naturally flower outside previous to the 
first of June. We should also select well-grown plants, 
that have been prepared for the purpose, and be sure that 
they have a resting period of at least two or three 
months, before they are brought into heat. Deutzia 
gracilis and D. scabra were among the first to be forced, 
and are well adapted for it. The various kinds of lilac, 
{Syringa tmlgaris and its varieties, also S. Persica) Fig. 
52, force readily. The many varieties of mock orange 
[PMladelphns coronarius) are also easily forced, as are 
the snowball ( Viburtmm Opnlus sterilis) and V. plica- 
ium. SpircBa Van Houttii and Exochorda grandijiora 
give good results, but they should be kept cool and 
forced slowly. Among the other plants adapted for 
forcing are Azalea mollis, Kahnia glauca and K. latifolia 
(Fig. 53), Daphne Gneorum and Andromeda speciosa and 
A. floribunda. 

The plants may be cheaply imported from Europe, 
all prepared for forcing, or they may be grown by the 
florists. Whether the small plants are propagated, or 
purchased from some nurseryman, they should be 
planted out in nursery rows and grown for two or three 
years. In order to secure a mass of fibi-ous roots that 
will favor their growth in pots, they should be trans- 
planted each year. When strong enough for forcing, 
they should be dug as soon as the leaves drop in the fall, 
and potted off, using a light, but rich compost. Wet 
down thoroughly and set in some sheltered place until 
there is danger of the cracking of the pots by frost, 
when they should be removed to a deep, cold pit. Here 
they will require no care, except an occasional watering 
if they become dry, and airing on warm, or bright, days. 



142 



GREEN^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



About Christmas, the first batch can be started, and 
others may follow at intervals. Place at first in a cool 
greenhouse and gradually increase the temperature until 
it is 60 degrees, at which time the growth should be 
started. The development of the buds can be aided if 




FIG. 53. KALMIA LATIFoLIA. 



the shrubs are frequently sprinkled. The care needed 
by these plants is about the same as that required for 
other plants under similar conditions. 

AYhile most of the herbaceous plants will have little 
value for forcing after the first season, many of the 



CALCEOLARIAS. 143 

deciduous slinil^s can be used more than once. After 
flowering, they should be removed to a cool room and 
from there to a cold pit, from which they should be 
planted again in nursery rows, and in two years can 
again be used for forcing. 



CHAPTER IX. 

CALCEOLARIAS. 

The public is beginning to appreciate the value of 
calceolarias as spring-blooming pot plants. They are 
very interesting in their structure and striking in their 
general appearance (Fig. 54). For early planting, the 
seeds, which should be of some choice strain, are sown 
as early as the middle of June, but for April flowering, 
during which month they should be in their prime, 
reliance should be had on July-sown seed, while to 
secure a later succession another batch should be put in 
some time in August. 

The seed should be sown in shallow pans upon a 
light compost, with a slight covering of sifted soil, and 
placed in a cool house, or, better, a frame, which should 
be well ventilated and shaded. If the frame is in a 
sheltered spot, faced to the North, and a lath screen is 
used in addition to a shaded sash, which is raised a few 
inches above the frame, we have given the seeds and 
future plants as nearly perfect surroundings, during a 
hot, dry summer, as can be secured. As soon as large 
enough, the seedlings should be pricked out into flats, and 
later into two- and three-inch pots, using a rich, fibrous 
compost composed of equal parts of rotted sods, loam, 
decayed manure and sand. Leaf mold can be added to 
advantage for the small plants. The plants should be 



144 



gree:n"hol'SE management. 



returned to the fniiiie and kei)t tliei'e until November ; 
they will need copious watering, on which account per- 
fect drainage is necessary. The leaves shonld be kept as 




FIG. 54. .SPECIMEN CALCEOLARIA. 



dry as possible, except that they should have a gentle 
syringing on warm, sunny mornings. 

The green fly must be kept down at all hazards, as, 
if it gets the start, it will be hard to control ; to aid in 
this, chopped tobacco stems may be scattered between 



CALCEOLAKTAS. 



14; 



the pots, both in the frame and in ilw house. As soon 
as the })hiiits begin to l)e i)()t-l)oun(l, shift into four-ineh 
pots and later into five- and six-incli. They should be 
removed into a cool greenhouse, where they can be kept 
at about 40 degrees, as soon as there is danger of frost 
working into the frame, which should be coyered upon 
cold nights with mats, during the last month. Keep the 




FK;. 55. (CINERARIA HYBRIDA. 

plants near the glass, but shade from the direct sun- 
light. 

The early started plants should be established in their 
flowering pots by the first of December, and should be 
in flower soon after New Yeai-'s. During the winter, 
give ventilation even on cold days, and give attention to 
the watering, so that the plants can bv no chance 
10 



14() GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

become dry. Keo]) ilio moisture olT the leaves us much 
as possible. As soon ;is tlic roots fill t he jwts after the 
final shift, supply manure water liberally, but discon- 
tinue its use when the flowers begin to open. 

In addition to the plentiful use of tobacco stems 
upon the greenhouse benches, to keep the aphis in 
check, frequent light fumigations should be given. 
To avoid disease, keep the leaves dry, and at once 
remove and destroy all diseased and decaying leaves. 
With careful management, the greenhouse can be kept 
in a blaze of color from January until the middle of 
May, and florists will find a growing demand for cal- 
ceolarias as house plants. 

CINERARIAS. 

The greenhouse cineraria occupies about the same 
place, both in the conservatory and the house, as the 
calceolaria, and it flowers at about the same time. The 
single forms are of little value for cut flowers, but some 
of the double kinds may become useful. The cineraria 
is even more injured than the calceolaria by a hot, dry 
air, and a slight frost that might not affect the calceo- 
laria would prove very injurious, if not fatal, to it. 
Like that plant, its greatest enemy is the green fly, but 
the principal reliance must be i)laced on the chopped 
tobacco stems, or the vapor from tobacco tea, or extract, 
as tobacco smoke, unless in a mild form, affects the 
foliage. Unlike the calceolaria, the cineraria delights in 
vrater upon its leaves and on every bright morning, even 
in winter, the plants should be syringed. 

In a general way, its care is the same as given for 
the calceolaria, and may be briefly stated as follows : 
Sow the seeds in shallow pans, from June to August ; 
prick out the young plants in flats or pots, and later 
transfer to three-inch pots, repotting, before growth is 
checked, into five- or six-inch pots. Sometimes they can 



CINERARIAS. 



147 



be made to fill even larger sizes. The soil should be of 
a ricli, light compost, with an increased amount of 
manure for the older plants. Cinerarias should be kept 
in a well-shaded frame or cool house from the time the 
seed is sown until October, when they should be placed 
where they can be kept at 45 degrees at night. The 
plants, when in large pots, should have liquid manure 




FIG. 5G. SINCJLE CHINESE PRIMROSE. 

once or twice a week. By careful attention to the time 
of sowing the seed and to the forwarding of the plants, 
constant bloom can be secured through the winter and. 
spring. While the method will not be much used in 
practice, a promising ])lant can be perpetuated by taking 
off and rooting the suckers that form after the flowers 
fade. A well-grown sjiecimen plant is seen in Fig. 55. 



l-iS GKEEi^"HOUSE MA:N^AGEMEiCT. 

PRIMULAS. 

Although more modest in their appearance than the 
showy calceohiria and cineraria, the primula (Fig. 50) has 
been and still is a more general favorite. The sorts that are 
most commonly grown are the single and double forms 
of the Chinese primrose {Primula Sinensis). The sin- 
gle primulas may be divided into two classes, the fimbri- 
ated and the fern-leaved, each of which has flowers in 
two colors, white and rose. They are grown from seed 
from May to July, in well-drained seed pans. The soil 
should be light and fibrous, and the covering should be 
light and evenly distributed. If the soil is well mois- 
tened before the seeds are sown, a glass laid over the pans 
will hold the moisture so that but little more need be 
applied, if they are placed in a cool, shaded frame. The 
seedlings should be pricked out into pjins or flats, which 
should be well drained, and the transfer to pots and the 
repotting should be the same as for cinerarias ; as a rule, 
however, the plants can flower in five-inch pots. After 
they get to growing, they should be Avell watered and 
tlie foliage should be wet down occasionally on bright 
mornings during the summer; after winter comes on, 
the leaves should be kept rather dry. After the middle 
of September, the plants should be grown in the house 
at an average temperature at night of 50 degrees. As 
with the other plants of this kind, liquid manure should 
be applied as soon as they have filled the pots, after the 
last shift. 

Primulas should be kept near the glass, and, 
although they like a certain amount of sunlight, they 
require partial shade, during the heat of the day in sum- 
mer, from its full intensity. It is well to pinch the 
flower buds from young plants, as it checks the growth 
of the ])lants if they are allowed to develop. In ])otting 
the primulas, care should be taken not (o i)ress the soil 
too tirmly, as it would obstruct the free i)assage of the 



MIGKONETTE. 149 

water. In repotting, while it is advisable to keep the 
lower leaves well down upon the soil, the crown should 
not be covered. 

The double primulas are increased by division. 
After flowering, the leaves are removed from the lower 
portiou of the stems and moist sphagnum is packed 
around them. If placed in a frame, and kept rather 
cool and moist for a couple of weeks, roots will form 
and the branches can be taken off and repotted. For a 
few days, until they become established, they should be 
kept rather close, after which they should be gradually 
hardened. The plants require about the same care as 
the single sorts, except that as they are forced for their 
flowers, a somewhat higher temperature should be given 
them. 

Another species of primula, P. ohconica, has for 
several years been considerably grown, but has now 
nearly gone out of use, from the fact that it is poisonous 
to many persons ; but for this, it is a desirable plant, as 
it is multiplied readily, either by division, or seeds, and 
furnishes its delicate pinkish-white flowers in profusion. 

Although it is easier to keep the aphis in check 
upon primulas than on either cinerarias or calceolarias, 
as they admit of fumigation, it is always well to keep 
the benches strewn with tobacco stems as a precaution. 

MIGNONETTE. 

Few plants can l)e grown with as little care and 
attention, and yet the number of florists who reach the 
highest success with mignonette is com])aratively smnll. 
A narrow, span-roof house, with a solid bench on either 
side of the walk, seems best adapted to this crop. 
Thorough drainage should be secured, and in no way 
can it ho o])tained more readily than l)y placing drain 
tile across the beds, about flfteen inches below the sur- 
face. They will have a marked efl'ect if placed twelve 



150 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

to twenty-four, or even as much as thirty-six, inches 
apart, but a closer arrangement will be better. 

The soil for the plants should be not less than fif- 
teen inches deep and many of the best growers prefer 
eighteen or twenty. Its composition may vary consid- 
erably, but a preparation of four parts well-rotted sods, 
four parts of garden loam and one part of decomposed 
manure is desirable. In filling the beds with this 
amount of soil, more than usual care is necessary that it 
be well pressed down and compacted. If the compost is 
coarse, a fine seed bed can be obtained by spreading 
sifted soil over the bed to the depth of an inch. The 
bed should be sown before it has time to dry out, the 
usual date being about the first of August, or a little 
earlier in some cases, in drills fifteen inches apart, cov- 
ering with sifted soil to the depth of three-eighths of an 
inch. It is a good plan to scatter sand in the drills in 
which the seeds are to be sown, and to use the same 
material for covering them. The bed should now be 
thoroughly watered, and from this time it should not 
be allowed to become dry. The use of cloth or lath 
screens, until the plants have appeared, is desirable, 
after which they should be removed. The ventilation 
should be ample, preferably from the ridge, and air 
should be given at all times, as the plants, at this period 
of their growth, should be kept cool. Good results can 
also be obtained in shallow beds, by placing an inch of 
cow manure in the bottom and filling up with three or 
four inches of rich but light com])ost. 

When the true leaves appear, the plants should be 
thinned so that they will stand at least twelve inches 
apart in the rows. In about two months the flowers will 
form, and if large spikes are desired the laterals that 
form on the leading shoots should be removed. This 
should also be done with the shoots that apjiear later on, 
as fine spikes can only be secured when disbudding is 



MIGNOXETTE. 



151 



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M r-J^% 







^** 





FIG. 57. MACHET MIGNONETTE. 



152 GREENHOUSE MAN'AGEMENT. 

carefully done. A night temperature of 45 degrees is 
generally considered a maximum for the mignonette and 
40 degrees is preferred by many ; during the day the 
ventihition should be such as will keep fhe temperature 
as near 58 degrees as possible. In caring for this crop, 
the well-known grower, Mr. J. N. May, of Summit, 
N. J., uses fine brush stuck into the soil around the 
plants to support the spikes, and this seems as good as 
any other Avay of trellising, although a desirable method 
is shown in Fig. 57. 

Where the caterpillars are troublesome, the method 
used by Mr. May to keep out the moths will be desira- 
ble ; it consists in covering all openings with mosquito 
netting. The use of hellebore, slug shot, or of Paris 
green, either in water or plaster, in a very dilute form, 
will also be a sure remedy. The most destructive dis- 
ease of this crop is described and figured in Chapter 
XXV. 

The seed ordinarily sold is very uneven and much 
of it will give Avorthless plants. It is always desirable, 
after securing a good strain of mignonette, to select seed 
for future use from the plants that are nearest to per- 
fection. In this way the type will be fixed and an 
improved strain for forcing will be secured. The variety 
known as Machet (Fig. 57) is one of the best for forcing; 
it has a strong stem, dark green, healthy foliage, and 
the spike is large and fragrant. Miles Spiral is preferred 
by some. 

Some growers have had good success with pot cul- 
ture. The seeds are sown in flats or beds, and the seed- 
lings pricked out into two-inch pots. When large 
enough to repot, they are transferred to four-inch pots, 
using very rich soil. They, of course, will need to be 
staked and tied and should receive the same care as 
when grown in beds, 



CHAPTER X. 



FERNS. 



For greenhouse or house decoration, or for supply- 
ing florists with '^green," ferns, and Adiantums in par- 
ticular, are very useful. While many species are easiest 
propagated by the division of the plants, others are com- 
monly grown from spores, which should be sown at 
once, although the spores from some species can be kept 
for some time. They should be sown either in pans or 
pots, or on beds, using garden loam, over which half an 
inch of fine sphagnum should be placed. Moisten this 
thoroughly and scatter the spores evenly over it, and 
after sprinkling cover with glass. Water only when 
they show they are dry. Keep covered until the seedlings 
have started. It will be best to prick out the young 
seedlings into flats, from which they should later be 
transferred to pots. Pot them in soil one-half leaf 
mold and the remainder of loam and sand. For propa- 
gating en a large scale, a box covered with a glass sash, 
of suitable size, will answer. The seed bed can be pre- 
I)ared upon the bench itself. Ferns for dwellings should 
be grown at 55 to 60 degrees, as they will then be firm 
and well hardened, and will thrive far better than soft, 
spindling plants, in the dry atmosphere of the living 
room. For small fern pans, two or three plants will be 
enough. Fern pans can be filled to advantage by using 
some erect growing kind in the center, with fine Adian- 
tums, Selaginellas or similar kinds, around it. 

Many varieties are readily increased by dividing the 
crowns. To increase them rapidly, they should be 
bedded out where they can be kept well moistened at a 

153 



154 GREEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

temperature of 60 to 65 degrees. In dividing and 
transferring to pots, it is hardly desirable to make a very 
fine division, as, although more plants can be obtained, 
they will be slower in starting and less satisfactory. 
During the spring and early summer, the young plants 
should be kept in a cool house or in a frame, where 
they can be properly shaded and watered. 

If to be used for cutting, the best results can be 
obtained if the i)lants are bedded out. This should be 
done early in August, in order that the plants may have 
time to develop and harden off. The beds should con- 
tain from four to five inches of compost, consisting of two 
parts pasture sods and one part each of sand and rotten 
manure. For most ferns a temperature of 60 to 65 
degrees is desirable, and the stove ferns are benefited if 
it is slightly higher, although some of the greenhouse 
species do well if it is considerably lower. 

For the florist's use, in addition to the well-known 
Adiantum cuneatum and gracilUmtim, such others as 
A. elegans, A. Capillus- Veneris, A. concinnum and A. c. 
latum, A. St. Catlierina and A. decorum will be useful. 
Adiantum Farleyense (Fig. 58) is among the best of the 
Adiantums for decorative pur23oses, but except for very 
elaborate cut-flower work, it will be less useful than 
some of the more delicate sorts. The Pteris serrulata 
and P. s. crisfata, and other forms that are readily 
grown, are also desirable for planting out, either on or 
under the benches, while Pteris treynula, and its varie- 
gated foi-m, P. argyrea, and P. cretica alba lineata 
should not be neglected. 

When ferns are shifted, or planted out, they should 
be shaded from the bright sun for several days, and the 
foliage should be frequently syringed. If to be used for 
cutting, after thev have made their G;rowtli, tlio shadinor 
should be taken off, and abundant ventilation should be 
given, in order that the fronds may harden off, and thus 



FERNS. 



155 



stand up longer when used. The florist will find spec- 
imen plants, and baskets and pans of ferns useful in dec- 
orating his house, as well as for outside work. If well- 




grown and of well selected kinds, the visitor will be 
attracted to them, and they will have a ready sale. 

For large conservatories the large tree ferns are 
quite desirable. While the Blcksonia, Cyathea, and 



156 



(^REEKHOrSE MANAGEMENT, 



other similar forms, grow very slowly, and, as a result, 
are imported in a dormant condition, at a large expense, 
the Ahophila Australis is quite rai)id in its growth and 
is readily propagated from spores. 

Ferns thrive in a moist atmosphere, hnt while they 
need a steady supply of moisture at their roots, an excess 
is sure to bring serious consequences. The thrip and 
scale are among the worst insect enemies of ferns. For 




FIG. 59. BOSTON FERN (NEPHROLEPIS EXAL,TATA BOSTONIEN8IS). 

the former, the frequent spraying of the plants with 
tobacco decoction will be found useful, or moderate 
fumigation may be employed upon the stronger kinds. 
The scale insects are most likely to make their ajipear- 
ance on plants that have been neglected, and if they 
appear the plants should be dipped or sprayed with ker- 
osene emulsion, or fir tree oil, and receive better atten- 
tion in the future. 

Ferns, as a rule, do not thrive as house plants, but 
for this purpose, the sword fern {JVepJu^oIepis exaltata) 



SMILAX. 157 

is one of the best, as it can stand a dry room better than 
most of them. A variety of the sword fern to which the 
name of iV. exaltata Bostoniensis (Fig. 59) has been 
given, has been recently introduced. It has a graceful 
drooping habit and seems well adapted to house culture. 
Of the more delicate and yet easily grown kinds are 
Davallia Fijiensis, Onychmm Japonicum, Microlepia 
Mrta cristata and the Gymnogrammes (gold and silver 
ferns). 

SMILAX. 

This for many years has been, and, in fact, it is yet, 
one of the most commonly grown and the most useful of 
the plants used by the florist as '^green." It is readily 
grown from seed, which should be sown any time from 
January to March, after soaking it for twenty-fours in 
warm water. The seedlings should be potted off, and 
as soon as they fill the thumb pot they should be shifted 
to the three-inch size. AA'ith proper care, they should be 
ready to plant out by June or July. While deep, raised 
beds are often used for growing smilax, less constant 
attention to watering will be required if it is grown in 
solid beds. In the first case, five or six inches of rich 
compost will be required, while for the latter it should 
be at least eight inches deep. It is desirable that there 
should be ten or twelve inches between the rows, and six 
or seven between the plants. For the training of the 
smilax, No. 14 galvanized wire should be stretched in 
two lines above each row, one line being near the bed 
and the other from six to ten feet higher. The green 
twine, thread, silkalene, or other material, used for 
training the smilax, should be fastened to these wires 
above and below. As the shoots start into growth, they 
should be trained up the proper strings, and they will 
need frequent attention that none of them get astray. 
Watering should, of course, not be neglected, and on 



158 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

bright days syringing will be helpful. After (he first 
crop is off, an application of manure may be made to the 
surface of the bed, or reliance may be had on liquid 
manure. 

While the principal call for smilax is at Christmas 
and Easter, it is needed at all times during the year, 
and a supply should always be kept on hand. Many 
growers throw out their smilax beds at the end of each 
year, but unless they have been unduly forced, good 
results can be obtained from them for several years. If 
to be retained, they should be dried off and kept dor- 
mant for tAvo or three months in the summer, and before 
they are brought into growth again the surface soil 
should be removed and replaced with a rich compost. 
If dried off in the early sprino-, a bench can be erected 
over the bed for bedding or other plants. 

Smilax, to be well grown, should have a night tem- 
perature of GO degrees, with the usual increase durnig 
the day. As with ferns, after the growth has been 
made, if it is hardened by gradually increasing tlie 
amount of ventilation, smilax will keep longer after it is 
cut. Under the best conditions, a cro]) can be secured 
by November, and two others can be taken off during 
the season, but, as a rule, two crops are all that can 
be cut. 

ASPARAGUS. 

This valuable climber was slow m coming into favor 
with the public, partly because it was by many associa- 
ted with the vegetable of the same name, but it now 
seems to have come to stay. In a general way, its culti- 
vation is about the same as has been given for smilax, 
from which it differs principally in its method of propa- 
gation. Asparagus is best propagated from cuttings of 
the young stems. If nnule in May and rooted under a 
hand glass, or in a propagating case, they will be strong 



ASPARAGUS. 



159 




FIG. GO. ASPARAGUS SPRENGERI. 



160 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

enough to give a tair crop the second year. A more 
common method is by tlie division of the old phints, 
and, after potting them off in light soil, plunging in a 
mild bottom heat. 

Strong plants should be set preferably in solid, 
although they will do fairly well in deep, raised beds, 
about ten or twelve inches apart ; if planted closer than 
this, every other plant should be removed after the sec- 
ond year. If well grown, from three to five strong 
shoots should be obtained from each plant. Asparagus 
is forced for several seasons, being best from the second to 
the fourth year. During the summer, it should be dried off, 
from June until August, and treated the same as smilax. 

The species most commonly grown is Asparagus 
plumosus; although a dwarf form, A. plnmosus nanus, is 
preferable for many purposes. The latter is more nearly 
like a fern, as a rule being only eighteen or twenty 
inches high, and as it has shorter joints, it is much more 
plume-like in appearance. A new form. Asparagus 
Sprengeri (Fig. (50), is claimed to be a strong grower, 
but of graceful habit, and of a bright green color. It will 
remain fresh for a considerable time even in a heated 
atmosphere. When grown rapidly, A spar agns plumosus, 
and to some extent, its dw^arf variety, has the habit of 
sending up stems with the lower part devoid of foliage, 
and as this is worthless, some growers, among them W. 
H. Elliott. Brighton, Mass., have erected liouses with 
high roofs (Fig. 61 ), thus enabling them to cut a good 
'^string" above the bare portion of the i)lant. Aside 
from their delicacy, and their rich, green color, all the 
greenhouse species of asparagus are found more valuable 
than smilax for decorations, or for cut-tlower work, 
where permanency is desirable, as they will remain fresh 
for a number of days, if the ends are in water. 

The temperature required is slightly lower than is 
needed by smilax, but with the exception of this, and 



ASPA.RAGUS. 



101 




11 



1G2 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEXT. 

the points noted above, the care required is not unlike 
that needed by that well-known plant. 



CHAPTER XI. 

PALMS, PANDANUS AND ARAUCARTAS. 

Few families of plants contain more cultivated 
species than does the one to which the common name of 
palm has been given. Although they have for long 
years been grown quite generally in greenhouses, they 
are coming more and more into favor for purposes of 
decoration. The well-known Fan pahn (commonly 
known as Latania), and the Corypha, with its broad 
leaves, were formerly used for this pnri)ose, but they 
were often badly torn, even with the most careful han- 
dling, and they did not grow in favor; although desira- 
ble in the conservatory, other kinds are now regarded as 
more useful. The present favorites are some of the pin- 
nate leaved Arecas and Kentias, and they seem admir- 
ably adapted for it, as they are not injured by rough 
usage, and as they succeed better than most palms in a 
dry atmosphei-e, they are much used as house plants. 

Nearly all palms grow readily from seed, and 
although thousands are imi:»orted annually, hundreds of 
thousands are eacli year grown in this countiy from 
imported seed. The seed should be obtained as fresh as 
possible and planted immediately, in sandy loam soil, 
in a good bottom heat. Although they can be sown on 
the beds, it is best to use pans, pots, or boxes, in order 
to be sure of proper drainage. While TO degrees can be 
taken as an average temperature for germination, some 
stove phxnts need more, and a few greenhouse forms will 
start as well at a lower temperature. If the seeds are 



PALMS, PAKDAKUS AKD ARAUC ARIAS. 



163 



large, with tliick, bony coverings, germination can be 
aided by filing through the shell and soaking for twenty- 
four hours in hot water. 

As soon as properly germinated, the plants should be 
potted off in three parts rotten sods (or two parts of leaf 
mold and two of rotten sods), one part of rotten manure 
and one part of sand; if the soil is stiff, a little peat or 
leaf mold can be added to advantage. During the sum- 







FIG. 62. FAN PALM LiviSTONA (Latania Chinensis). 

mer, the young plants should be kept in the growing 
house at about 70 degrees. 

8ome of the plants with small leaves grow quite well 
in comparatively small pots, but as soon as they fill them 
with roots, liquid manure should be added. As a rule, 
there is more harm done from over-potting them than 
from under-i)otting. In case a i)lant needs a change of 
soil, when a shift is not desirable, the loose soil can be 
removed and the roots cut away, and the plant can go 



164 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



back into the old size without crowding. Wlienever 
pahns are repotted, they should be shaded and carefully 
syringed for a few days. As the season of growth 
approaches, unless the plant is repotted, liquid manure 
should be applied. Oftentimes it will be of advantage to 




FIG. 63. DWARF KATTAJV I'ALM {Jihapis humifis). 

remove the surface soil from around a plant and rei^lace 
it with rich compost. 

During the summer, it is well to remove the large 
plants from the house and ])lunge tliom, under a partial 
shade, out of doors, where they will be somewhat shel- 
tered from strong winds. A lath screen makes an excel- 



PANDANUS. 165 

lent covering for palms and similar plants. Many of 
the palms can be kept in the full liglit, but should be 
l)lunged in the ground to lessen the danger of their dry- 
ing out. If properly supplied with water, palms are 
better off out of doors than in the house ; although the 
leaves may become slightly yellow, they will recover their 
Screen color on beins: returned to the house. 

As noted above, while the Latania (Fig. 62) 
(properly Livistona Chincnsis) and Corypha ( Lividona 
Australia) are much used, both for the greenhouse and 
house, the forms commonly known as Kentias {Howea 
Belmoreana, H. Fosteriana and Rliojialostylis Baiteri), 
the Arecas {Areca hifescens, A. rubra and Hyophorhe 
Verschaffellii), Seaforthias (Archonlophcenix Alexandrm 
and A. Chmninghamiana), Date Palms (Phoenix dacty- 
lifera, P. rupicola and P. redinata), and Rhapis 
{Rliajns flabelliformis and R. humilis) (Fig. 63), are 
generally useful and are much more grown. 

PANDANUS. 

These plants, commonly known as Screw Pines, 
from the spiral arrangement of their leaves, are both 
interesting and, particularly in the variegated forms, 
attractive. Pandanus utilis, the best known species, is 
easily grown from seeds, which start readily in a strong 
heat, and should be potted off in a rich, sandy compost 
containing leaf mold or rotten sods. During the sum- 
mer, they need a ^lartial shade and a high temperature. 
Tn well-drained pots, they can use large quantities of 
water during the growing period. The air should be kept 
moist at that time by frequent syringings, but in the 
winter water should be used sparingly, both in the pots 
and on the leaves. 

The other forms that are commonly grown are P. 
candelabrum (Javanicus) variegatus and P. Veitcliii, the 
latter being more useful than either of the others. They 



100 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

jire propugatcd ))y t;ikiii<; oiT and looiiiif; tlic suckers 
whioli form iilxml, tlie bnsc of the i)huit.s. If these are 
})lacod in .sand in a propaij^ating case, ilicy will take root 
r(>adily, and can then be i)(>ttcd off. These si)ecios 
rc'fpiire the same care as has been outlined for the P. 
nlilis. 

THE ARALIA. 

Of the other decorative ])hints, uoue are better than 
tlic Aralia (inchuling Panax and Fatsia). AVhile the 
common hardy and half-hardy species grow readily from 
cuttings of the roots, only a few of the stove si)ecies of 
tiie Aralia, such as A. GuiJfoyliiy propagate with ease 
from cuttings of the stems, and other forms, such as 
A. lepUiplujlla and A. Veitcliii, are generally grafted. 
'IMie above nuMitioTuni forms are among the best of the 
Aralias ])roper. Aralia V. griwillima has long, nar- 
I'ow, undulated leaflets (with white midribs), and is 
an im])rovement on the species. 

Panax plumosum and P. Victoria, both ])r()bably 
yarieties of P. fruticosuni, are delicate plants, with plume- 
like leaves, which are variegated in the latter. They 
are proi)agated by means of either stem or root cuttings, 
or by suckers, '^^riie more showy stove Aralias are now 
placed Avith Fatsias. Of these Fatsia papij rif era, F. Japnn- 
ica (syn. A, iSie/joldii), and the white and yellow varie- 
gated forms of the latter, are especially valuable. They 
are j)ropagated from seeds, from suckers, or from cut- 
tings of the stems. 

'^Phe plants of all these genera need a rich compost, 
of equal parts of rotten sods, manure and sand. 

ARAUCARIA. 

This is one of the few conifers grown in green- 
houses. The more common species are Araucaria 
excelsa, the Norfolk Tsl.-md 1*1 iie, and A. imhricata, the 
Chilian Pine. Propagation is by seeds or cuttings. Tho 



AR AUG ARIAS. 



167 



seeds arc a long time in germinating, and generally have 
a low vitality. They should be sown in a mild heat. 
If cuttings are used, they are taken fi'om the tops of 
plants in the autumn and placed in sand, where they 
should be kept at a cool house temperature until they 
begin to callus, after which they should have a gentle 




lie. Ci. THK VAl;li:r. \TKI) ASIMDrs'l'KA. 

heat. Then place in four-inch pots, using rich loam 
and sand, and keep rather close until they have become 
established, when they need more air and water. After 
this, they need ordinary care and should be repotted 
each summer before growth begins, until they are in 
eight-inch pots; after that, once in two or three years 
will answer. 



168 GliEEN HOUSE MAXAGEMENT. 

ASPIDISTRA. 

Tliis goiuis, oT wliii'li A,^/)i(/i.'<fr(( Jiiriiht, witli iis 
variooated form (Fig. 64), is the best known species, is 
of valne as a honse plant, and to the Horist, to be used 
in decorations, on account of its hardiness and its ability 
to stand rough treatment. It is propagated by divisit)n, 
and with an abundance of moisture and a moderate 
temperature, it makes a rapid growth. A compost of 
rotten sods, sand and manure in equal parts seems 
adapted to it. 



CHAPTER XII. 

DRACAENAS AND COKDYLINES. 

The value of these ])lants is each year more and 
more recognized by Horists, as tlieir use for decorations 
is better understood ; their increased poi)ularity is also 
undoubtedly due to the many distinct and beautiful 
varieties that have been brought out in- recent years. In 
these two genera are found a large number of ])lants, 
most of which are commonly known as Dracipuas, but 
which are properly termed Oordylines. It is not strange 
that the nomenclature should be confused, as the genera 
contain many plants that can only be distinguished by 
their tlowers and fruits, botli of which are small and 
inconspicuous. The DradTuas, as a rule, have but a 
single ovule in each ci>ll of the ovary, while the Oordy- 
lines have many : the tlowers of the Cordyline are also 
much smaller than those of the Dracama. 

In the genus Dracaena, we find only a few species in 
cultivation, D. itniriiimt, D. Draco. D. clUpfira, D. 
fraifrivi^ and its varieties, D. (lohliana and D. iiKnyi- 
nata being best known. Among the (V)rdylines arc 
the following si)ecies and varieties: C. aniainlis, Aiu^- 



]JKM;^iq"AS AXD CORDYLINES: 10!) 

firdis, Baptistiiy cannmfolia, excelsa, gloriosa, imperi- 
alism indivisa and its varieties, inaguifica, splendens, 
stricta, stricta congesta, tpvmimdis and Youngii. Sev- 
eral of the above, which are often pat down as species, 
are merely varieties of the well-known Cordyline {Dra- 
cmna) terminalis. 

Many of the Oordylines produce seed abundantly, 
and these can be used for propagation ; they are sown in 
light, sandy soil, at a temperature of 60 degrees, and are 
potted off and treated the same as cuttings. Cuttings 
of the stems are commonly used for the propagation of 
the less common species, as well as Dracaenas. The 
tips can be top-layered, or can be cut off and rooted; 
the lower portions of the stems are then cut into pieces 
two or three inches in length, and these are placed on 
the sand of a cutting bench and covered with sphagnum; 
they may be covered with sand or light soil, but there is 
more danger of decay. The fleshy roots of some species 
may be treated in the same way. In a sti'ong bottom 
heat and with proper watering, sprouts will soon be sent 
out from both the stem and root cuttings, and as soon as 
these are of suitable size they should be cut off and 
rooted the same as any other cutting. In a propagatiiig 
case, there will be but little risk, but it is still surer to 
root them in water, or by the saucer system. In the 
case of choice species, the cuttings are sometimes set 
singly in small pots, filled with sandy soil, which are 
then plunged. In this way, all danger of breaking the 
roots in potting, thus checking the growth, is obviated. 
A light, rich soil, with perfect drainage, seems to suit 
these plants. If properly handled, they can be kept in 
quite small pots, and overpotting should be carefully 
avoided. 

While some of the species belong in the stove, others 
will thrive with greenhouse treatment. During the 
summer they can be kept outside in a frame, or in a 



ITO * GREENHOUSE MAN^AGEMENT. 

house Avhere tliorougli ventilation and frequent syring- 
ings can be given ; as Avith the Croton, the red spider 
and thrip are the worst enemies of these phxnts, and sim- 
ihir remedies should be given. 

Dracwna marginata and D. fragrans are about the 
only plants of that genus that are of value to the florist ; 
D. Draco is a magniHcent plant for a large conservatory, 
while, although D. GoJdiana is a very pretty little plant, 
it is of small value commercially. Of the Cordylines, 
C. indivisa, Austrcdis, grand is, and terminalis, with 
their many varieties, are most useful. Some of the 
varieties with large, bright-colored leaves, such as C, 
AUace- Lorraine, Baptist ii, imperialis and gloriosa (syn. 
Sliep/ierdi), present a more striking appearance in the 
conservatory, and if carefully handled will do well for 
decoration. 

CROTOXS (CODI^UMS). 

Few stove plants are more striking in their appear- 
ance than well-grown Crotons (or Codiaeums, as they 
are more properly called), and none are easier to propa- 
gate and care for. Although it is sup.i)osed that all have 
come from not over three species, the variations in shape 
and color of leaf, and the habits of the plant, have been 
so great that there are hundreds of well-marked varieties 
in cultivation. 

AVhile Codiaeums will grow at temperatures as low 
as 50 or 55 degrees, it is better to give them fJO degrees 
as a minimum night temperature in w^inter. They are 
readily propagated by top-layering the main stem or 
side branches, or, as is much easier and a more common 
method, by terminal cuttings of the half-hard wood. 
They may be made at any time, but generally the best 
plants are produced when started in the winter or early 
spring. The cuttings root readily when placed in sand 
in a pro^xigating case or hotbed, but as they are likely 



CROTONS. 171 

to be checked if the roots are broken in potting, it is 
better to i)lace them singly in small pots filled with 
light, sandy soil, and plunge in strong bottom heat 
under a hand glass, or other propagating case. As soon 
as rooted, they should be gradually hardened, until the 
j)ots fill with roots, when they should be repotted in a 
fibrous, sandy compost and returned for a few days to 
the propagating case, or a hotbed, to avoid a check ; 
after being hardened and established they may be taken 
out. They require at all times a moist atmosphere to 
keep them free from the I'ed spider, and hence frequent 
syringing is necessary. While they should never be 
allowed to become dry, care should be taken against 
over-wateriug, and as a safeguard they should be kept in 
as small pots as possible, helping them out in their 
growth with liquid manure. The use of water from 
which the chill has been taken will be of great value. 
If branching plants are desired, they can be secured by 
heading back the main stem to the proper point and, 
later, pinching in the branches. In this way, large 
specimen plants can be grown. In order to have them 
take on a good color, they should be given as much light 
as possible, by keeping them near the glass and out of 
the shade of other plants. 

Codiaeums can be used to advantage in brightening 
up a conservatory, or cool house, but the change from 
the stove room should be gradual, lest the plants receive 
a check and the leaves drop. While they have been used 
for bedding with success in the southern part of the 
country, it is only in warm and protected situations that 
they thrive north of latitude 41°. When thus used out 
of doors they should receive daily syringings. 

Among the best varieties are CodicBum DisrcBlii, C. 
Evansianum, C. gloriosum, C. illiistris, C. inter i^uptum, 
C. picMm, C. Qtieen Victor ia, G. recurvifolium , 0. Roths- 
cliildiaitum, G, varieqatum, G. Veitchiiaud G. volutum. 



172 OREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 

Witli the exception of tlio red spider, as iiieivl loiied 
above, the only other really troublesome insect enemy 
is the thrip, but with a proper amount of moisture, air 
and light, neither of them is particularly to be feared. 

RUBBER TREES. 

For decorating purposes, or as a house plant, the 
rubber tree has few equals, owing to its ability to with- 
stand rough usage and neglect. The plants are gener- 
ally i^ropagated from single eye cuttings, and in this way 
they are multiplied quite rapidly. The plants are 
topped about the first of January and the tips are placed 
in the cutting bed. To succeed well in growing plants 
by this method, large, plump buds are desirable and the 
wood should be quite firm. If the plants are started 
into growth as they should be, the buds upon the stem 
towards the upper end will swell, and the stems can now 
be cut up and a ctttting made from every portion that 
contains a bud. If the wood is hard, they will strike 
quicker if every cutting has a portion of bark removed 
from one side at the base of the bud, or cuttings can be 
made by splitting off from the stem the buds witli bits 
of wood two inches long and one-fourth inch thick. 
The cuttings need a strong bottom heat, and iC they can 
be in a propagating case, all the better. Some growers 
place the cuttings in pots filled with leaf mold and sand 
and plunge them into the cutting bed. When grown in 
this way, the lower leaves are generally quite small and, 
as they are inclined to drop from the stems, the cuttings 
are likely to make spindling plants. 

A better, but a slow^er and more expensive, method 
of propagating the plants is by top-layering. For this, 
a plant from six to twelve months old, with short- 
jointed, thick stems, should be selected, and one that has 
lost its lower leaves is as good as any. To induce them 
to throw out roots, the stem should be cut or pierced. 



CYAXOPHYLLr.U ANT) SPn.TJJOGYNE. IT-') 

the best way being to bend ilie si em and make a sloping 
cut, upwards and towards the center of the stem, from 
Mn inch and one-quarter to an inch and one-half in 
length, according to the size of the plant. The plant is 
then wrapped with wet sphagnum, or moss of some 
kind, and staked securely. If kept properly moistened, 
roots will soon be emitted and the cutting can be potted 
off within four or five weeks. The buds left on the 
stem of the old plant will soon break and a branching 
plant will be formed. When propagated in this way, 
the young plants will be strong and vigorons and will be 
clothed with large, well-colored leaves from the pot u]), 
and the time required will be comparatively short. The 
common rnbber tree and its variegated form are both 
propagated in this way. 

Rubber trees should be kejit at about GO degrees, 
and during growth need an abundance of liquid manure 
and frequent shifling. Ficus ParreUi, a beautifully 
variegated stove plant, is readily grown from cuttings or 
eyes, and requires the same care as Ficus elastica, except 
that as it is deciduous, more care should be taken to give 
it a period of rest during the winter. 

CTANOPHYLLUM AND SPH^ROGYNE. 

When well-grown, these are the most attractive of 
our stove foliage plants. They have a general resem- 
blance, although the former has a nearly smooth stem 
and leaves, while those of the latter are quite hairy and 
fuzzy. They can be grown either from crown or eye 
cuttings, or from seed, if it can be secured. The eye 
cuttings are made by cutting the stems into pieces about 
two inches long, with a node at the center, and then 
splitting them, so that one of the opposite buds will be 
in each half. The cuttings may be placed on a layer of 
sphagnum in a propagating case and covered with sand, 
or, as is better if only a few are to be grown, by filling a 



174 GREENHOUSE MA.NAGEMENT. 

small pot half full of fibrous peat, or sphagnum, and 
after the cuttings have been placed upon it, filling the 
pots with sand and plunging in a hotbed or propagat- 
ing case. As soon as rooted, they should be repotted in 
a mixture of fibrous peat, rotten sods and sand. Thor- 
ough drainage is desirable, but the atmosphere can 
hardly be kept too moist, as the leaves expand ; if the 
air is allowed to become dry, the leaves will be shrivelled 
and imperfect. 

Daring the resting period, in winter, the tempera- 
ture may drop to 60 or b5 degrees, but while making 
their growth they like a temperature of 75 or 80 degrees. 
When properly grown, they will be but little trouble, 
but they should be carefully watched tliat the mealy 
bug does not gain a foothold. 

The most desirable species of these plants are 
Splmrogipie latifoUa and Cyanophylhnn magnificum. The 
foliage of the former has a particularly unique appear- 
ance, owing to a well-marked network that extends over 
the leaves. 

MARANTAS AND CALATHEAS. 

The genus Maranta formerly contained a large 
number of desirable stove plants, but most of them have 
now been placed in the genus Calathea. However, as 
they require about the same care, they can be treated 
together. The plants have tuberous or creeping rhi- 
zomes, and one species yields the arrow root of com- 
merce. Although most of the species can be readily 
propagated by dividing the plants, the long rhizomes 
can also be made into cuttings. If cut up into pieces 
two inches in length, and these are placed in moist 
sphagnum in a hotbed or propagating case, tlie dor- 
mant eyes will each throw out shoots. These can be 
separated, rooted and potted off the same as any cutting. 

The Maranta thrives in a loose, rich, moist soil, 
composed of rotten sods or leaf mold, peat and sandj 



KEPEN^THES. 175 

loam, with perfect drainage. If propagated by division, 
the best time is in the spring before growtli starts ; tlie 
plants should be sbaken and the rhizomes separated, 
leaving at least one eye upon each piece. After being- 
potted, they should be watered and placed in a hotbed 
or i^ropagating case nntil they become established. 
After being gradually hardened, they can be taken out. 
During the summer, they like an abundance of 
moisture, particularly in the air, which can be secured 
by frequent syringings. During the summer tliey 
should have partial shade, with partial rest in the win- 
ter, and repotting will be desirable in the spring. 
Among the best varieties are Maranta McoIoi\ M. Cliim- 
horacensis^ M. Porteana, and M. smaragdhta. Of the 
Calatheas, we have Calathea Kerclioviana, O. Legrelli- 
ana, C. Leitzi, C. Makoyana, C. Massangeana, C. rosea- 
picta, C. Van der Hechei, C, VeitcMi, C, Warscetvic- 
zii and C. zebrina. 

KEPE^NTTHES. 

This interesting genus of plants is not difficult of 
cultivation, if a proper amount of moisture in the air is 
provided. They are propagated from ti]3 cuttings, or by 
cutting the ripened stem into pieces one or two inches 
long and placing them in moist sphagnum and fibrous 
peat in a brisk bottom heat, in the same way as the 
Drac^na is increased. Nepenthes thrive best in orchid 
baskets in fibrous peat and sphagnum, and as soon as 
the shoots have thrown out roots, they should be so 
arranged. The plants should never be allowed to 
become dry, and during their period of growth frequent 
syringings should be given them. The temperature for 
Xepentlies should not be allowed to drop below 60 
degrees. When well grown, each leaf should bear at its 
extremity a pitcher from two to six inches in lengtli, 
according to the variety. Among those of easy culture 



170 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




BIEFFEXBACHIAS. 1/1' T 

arc sucli well-known sorts as Nepenthes Dommiana, N. 
Hookeriana, li. Mastermtna and .\'. Jifffflesiaita. 

DIEFFENBACHIAS. 

The plants of this genus are very attractive ar>cl are 
readily grown. Tliey are generally pro]){igated by cut- 
ting the stems into single eye pieces, and if these are 
dij)ped in land plaster and slightly dried, it will lessen 
the liability of their decaying in the cutting bed. They 
can be started in the same way as explained for Cordy- 
lines, or })ots can be half filled with sandy soil, on which 
the cuttings are placed, and the pots filled with sand and 
plunged in a brisk bottom heat. 

As soon as the roots form, the cuttings should be 
potted in a rich, sandy compost, containing either peat, 
or rotten sods. Spring is the best time to propagate 
Dieffenbaciiias, as they require a high temperature. 
They should be kept near the glass, and repotted as is 
necessary. If desired, bushy plants can be secured by 
heading them in, and by a liberal use of manure water 
they can be grown to a large size. They need a moist 
atmospheie, and during the summer, syringing shouhl 
not be neglected, as otherwise the red spider will gain 
the ascendency. 

Among the best kinds are the Diefenhachia Baum^ 
D, Botvmanni, D. Leopoldii, D. magnijica, D. regina, 
and Z). rex. Resembling the above are several desirable 
species of Schismatoglottis, which are grown in about 
the same way as Dieffenbachias. 

ANTHURIUMS. 

In every collection of stove plants there should be 
at least a half dozen species of this showy and interest- 
ing aroid. The two classes, flowering and foliage, 
give us, on the one hand, a variety of large, velvety, 
distinctly veined leaves, and, on the other, flowers that 
are very durable, always present, and striking in form 



178 



GREEKHUUSE MANAGEMENT. 




ANTHURIUMS. 



179 



and coloring. By hybridizing, many new and promising 
varieties have been recently brought out. 

They are readily grown from seeds, when they can 
be obtained, but the usual method is by means of 
suckers and cuttings of the rootlike stem. The cuttings 
root readily in most species, but they should not be 
taken off until roots have been formed. Anthuriums 




FIG. 67. AGLAONEMA PICTUM. 



need a temperature of at least 55 degrees excej^t when in 
flower, when they may be kept slightly lower, al- 
though some of the foliage sorts are benefited by 60 or 
65 degrees at night. A slight shade from the bright 
sun is beneficial to them, and like all plants of the 
kind, they need an abundance of water while growing 
and should never be allowed to become dry. In the sum- 
mer a daily syringing should be given them, with slight 



180 gree:n^house manageme^^t. 

ventilation. Thorough drainage is necessary for them, 
and in j^otting the pots should be half filled with broken 
crocks on which the plants should be placed in a com- 
post made of fibrous peat, sphagnum, fine crocks and 
8and, formed into a mound from one to three inches 
above the top of the pot. The plant should be held in 
place, if necessary, by means of small stakes. As the 
plants grow they should be repotted, using the same com- 
post with the addition of a little rotten sods and manure, 
for the flowering sorts in particular. 

Of the more desirable and common, hence lower 
priced, sorts are Anthurium Andreanum, Avith its large, 
dark red, leathery and corrugated recurved spathe; it is 
easily grown and a perpetual bloomer. A. Sclierzerianum, 
with long leaves and scarlet spathe on red stems; the 
spadix is spotted with the salmon flowers. A. S. maximttm 
is a form having much larger spathes; other forms of 
A. Srherzerianum vary in the color of their spathes. 
A. Ferrieriense (at upper part of Fig. 65), is a strong 
grower resembling A. Andreanum, except that the 
spathe is reddish pink with a white spadix. The spathe 
is not recurved as in that species. There are also many 
varieties and species of each of the above. Among the 
foliage anthuriums the better kinds are A. crystallinum, 
(at right of Fig. 65), with large, cordate, white veined, 
dark green velvety leaves; A. Waroqueanum {cQnier oi 
Fig. 65), deep green, velvety, lanceolate leaves often 
thirty inches long and eight or ten wide; and A. regale, 
having large cordate leaves Avith white veins. Antlitirinm 
ornatum and A. spkmdens are also valuable. One thing 
that makes this genus of plants particularly desirable is 
that, if reasonably well cared for, none of the insect 
pests of the greenhouse trouble them. 

ALOCASTAS. 

Allied to Anthurium is this genus of foliage plants, 
which, when Avell grown, present a striking aj^pearance. 



ALOCASIAS. I8i 

with their distinctly marked and often oddly shaped 
leaves. Like the Anthuriums, the plants are propa- 
gated from suckers, seeds or cuttings of the rhizomes. 
The soil suited to them is not unlike that for Anthu- 
riums, except that a larger proportion of lime can be 
used. They prefer a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees at 
night during the winter, and 75 or 80 degrees in tlie 
summer, with a moist atmosphere. An exception to 
tliis rule regarding the soil is Alocasia maci'orhiza, and 
its variegated form, which delight in a rich compost of 
fibrous loam, sand and rotten manure in equal parts, in 
wliich, with an abundance of water and plenty of heat, 
they will grow to a large size. One of the most inter- 
esting species is Alocasia Tliihautiana (at the left in Fig. 
65), which has curiously lobed, greenish-black leaves, 
with broad, white veins. A, metalUca (Fig. &Q), (prop- 
erly A. cuprea) has glossy, metallic, dark green leaves, 
with a purple luster beneath. 

Aglaonema (Fig. 67) is an Arum closely allied to 
Alocasia and requires the same care. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

LETTUCE FORCING. 

Within the last ten or fifteen years, the growing 
of crops of winter lettuce, in houses es2)ecially erected for 
the purpose, has become quite an important industry in 
many localities. Owing to improper methods of han- 
dling the crop, it was for a long time thought that hot- 
beds were preferable to forcing houses for lettuce grow- 
ing, when large perfect heads were desired, but except 
for late fall and early spring, they are but little used 
to-day. 

While every large city has one or more persons en- 
gaged in lettuce forcing, the industry seems to haye 
reached its largest dimensions in the vicinity of Arling- 
ton, Mass., and Grand Rapids, Mich. Owing to the 
perfection of their methods, the lettuce growers of 
Arlington and Belmont have been able to compete with 
local growers, in the New York market. The industry 
is a comparatively new one in Grand Rapids, as 
it is but little more than ten years since Eugene Davis 
engaged in the business upon a small scale. So success- 
ful has he been that hundreds have gone into it, and the 
glass area used for the purpose has doubled each year 
since 1888, until in 1891 several hundred thousand 
square feet of glass were used in the erection of houses 
for lettuce forcing. The markets of Detroit, Cleveland, 
Columbus, Cincinnati, Chicago, Milwaukee and, in fact 
nearly all of the largo cities within a radius of from 300 
to 500 miles, are supplied with Grand Ra])ids lettuce, 
and it has been sent nearly one thousand miles to New 

182 



LETTUCE FORCIKG. 



18: 




184 CtKeenhouse maxactEmext. 

York cit}', and there competed successfully with the 
Long Island and Arlmgton product. 

Much of the success obtained by tliese growers is 
due to the fact that they have varieties well adapted for 
forcing, and yet the kinds grown at Arlington and Grand 
Eapids are quite unlike. At the former place, and in 
fact throughout the lettuce-growing section of New 
York, Xew England and A'ew Jersey, tlie cabbage or 
head lettuce is grown, the favorite sorts being selected 
strains of White Tennis Ball. Those that seem best 
adapted for the purpose are Hot House, selected and 
largely grown by AV. W. Eawson of Arlington, Mass., 
and Belmont or Big Boston, which is the favorite sort 
with Hittinger Bros, of Belmont. At Grand Rapids, 
the only kind grown is one obtained by Mr. Davis by se- 
lection from Simpson, and which is known as Grand 
Rapids. Although in many markets it has been claimed 
that only head lettuce would sell, the dealers have sel- 
dom been able to supply the demand for Grand Rapids 
lettuce since it was introduced. 

Among the strong points of this variety nuiy be 
noted (1) its early maturity, as it develops about one 
week sooner than any other variety ; (2) the closeness of 
planting that it will admit of, owing to its erect habit of 
growth. This permits the growing of as large heads 
Avhen planted six inches each way as can be obtained 
from the spreading Tennis Ball sorts, at eight inches. 
(3). It seems to require less care, and to be less injured 
by neglect than most other varieties. Improper ventila- 
tion or watering frequently leads to the appearance of 
mildew, rot or burning of the leaves, but it is far less 
noticeable in the Grand Rapids than in any other variety. 

LETTUCE HOUSES. 

The even-span house (Fig. (18) is still commonly 
used for lettuce growing, but is being supplanted by 
the three-quarter span liouse, and by tlie lean-to 



LETTL'CE HOUSES. 



185 



lettuce house (Fig. 69). Unless of the low ridge 
and furrow plan, lettuce houses should not be less 



'#- 







# 




than twenty feel wide, and [»rereral)l}' sliould l)c as 
wide as thirty to thirty-three feet. Houses forty 



186 GREEX11018E MAiy A(; EAIKNT. 

and fift}' foot wide :nv not iini'onnnon and prove 
satisfactory. The loan-to lottni'o house doseribod in 
(iroonhouse (\)nst ruction is cheaply constructed aiul 
gives excellent, results, particularly if built upon a 
side hill, but the thrce-([uarter s[)au house is su})- 
plantiuii' it in some localities, autl will be found 
ju'ct'erablc Tor houses u])on level iiround that are more 
than thirty feet wide. The benches may be either raised 
or solid, a I'onnnon plan when three beds arc used in 
houses twenty feet wide being" to have one solid bed in 
the center and raised benches at the sides, or the ar- 
rangement may be reversed. in some of the largo 
liouses, even if as wide as thirty-throe feet, one solid bed 
is made in the center, leaving only space for narrow 
walks next to the walls, but a center walk in addition is 
desirable. Solid beds raised one or two feet above the 
walks, and not nu)re than tifteen feet wide, are generally 
preferred to raised benches. 

In many sections where fuel is chca[>, the old-fasli- 
ioned Hue is still used with good results, and in fact ji 
large per cent of (irand Rapids lettuce is grown in ilne- 
heated houses. Steam is also largely nsed, and the heat- 
ing plant is cheaper than hot water to ])ut in, hut, even 
in large houses, hot wati>r in small ])ii)es is preferred by 
many who have nuule a carciul test of the two methods. 

COMMERCIAL LETTl'CE CK0WIN(;. 

AVith good management, three or four crops of let- 
tuce can he harvested, and the houses can then he used 
for the growing of vegetable plants, cucumbers, or toma- 
toes. It is desirable to have the tirst crop come on by 
Thanksgiving, or before, and for this j)urpose the seed 
should bo sown in an old cold frame, or in a seed bod 
outside, es})ecially })repared for the ])urposo, about the 
last t)f July or first of Angust. Tlie bed should be 
marked olf into row's six inches apart, and the seeds 



COMMERCIAL LETTUCE GKOWIKG. 187 

scattered tliiiily in tlie di'ills, or tliey may be sown broad- 
cast. They should be covered witli about one-half inch 
of soil, and the surface of the bed rolled, or pressed down 
with a board. After giving the bed a thorough water- 
ing, it should be covered with lath screens, and watered 
whenever it shows signs of becoming dry. When the 
plants have formed their first true leaves they should be 
transplanted to about two by six inches, or, if in drills. 




FIG, 70, rOT I'LA.N 1 liJ.ADV FOR PLACING IN PERMA- 
NENT BED. TENN, EXPERIMENT STATION, 

thinned to two inches in the row. These plants will be 
ready to transplant to the beds about the 15th to the 
20th of September, and all designed for the Thanksgiv- 
ing trade should be in the beds by the first week in 
October. If the Christmas market is preferred to 
Thanksgiving, the seeds need not be sown until the mid- 
dle of August, or a portion of the crop can be put in 
early and the balance held for a succession. 

About the first of October, a second sowing should 
be made, and another for the third crop about the first 



188 CHEENHOTTSE MANAOEAfENT. 

of December, in beds or flats in tlie forcing liouse. Tbaf. 
tliere may be no delay, it is a good plan to make a small 
sowing every week or two. When one inch high the plants 
should be pricked out into beds or flats, three or four 
inches apart each way, and as soon as they crowd should 
be placed in the beds at a distance of six inches for the 
Grand Rapids and seven and a half or eight inches for 
the large Tennis Ball sorts. 

Another method, Avhich is more economical of room, 
is to prick out the plants in flats or beds one and one- 
half or two inches each way, and when they begin to 
crowd transplant to the permanent beds, at distances 
varying from three to four inches, according to the 
variety. They are grown in this way until the leaves 
touch, when the extra plants are taken out, leaving the 
permanent plants from six to eight inches apart. 

POT CULTURE OF LETTUCE. 

A method of growing lettuce in which the plants are 
placed in flower pots has been tested by Prof. S. A. 
Beach of the Geneva, N. Y., Experiment Station, and 
Prof. R. L. Watts of the Tennessee Station. The seed- 
ling plants are pricked out in two and one-half or three- 
inch pots, and are grown there until the plants crowd, 
when the pots are placed close together (Fig. 70). They 
are then transferred to the permanent beds, where they 
are plunged at the usual distance, so that the tops of the 
pots will be covered one-half inch. They will require 
the same care as when planted in the bed and when 
marketed the plants may be slipped out of the pots, or 
not, according to circumstances. 

It is claimed for this method that there is no check 
from transplanting, that the beds will only be occupied 
for four weeks, while if the plants are pLaced at once in 
the permanent beds it will be at least eight weeks before 
the crop can be taken off, and that ihere will be less 



PREPARATIOK AN^D CARE OF THE BEDS. IBO 

loss in marketing, as, whetlier in the pots or not, the balls 
of earth (Fig. 71) will prevent the wilting of the leaves, 
and with proper care the heads can be kept over a week. 
Our experience in lettuce growing in pots does not 
Avarrant our recommending it for general use, although 
the above claims have for the most part been substanti- 
ated. We find, however, that the check from trans- 
planting is more than counterbalanced by the reduced 
size of the plants grown in pots, while by the use of the 




FIG. 71. POT PLANT READY FOR MARKET. TETOT. EXP. STATION. 

system of transplanting recommended above there is lit- 
tle if any saving in room, while the labor of transplant- 
ing is less than will be required in handling the pots and 
in plunging. There will undoubtedly be less loss when 
the plants are marketed with balls of earth attached, 
and this may make it a desirable method of growing let- 
tuce for supplying small dealers. 

PREPARATION" AND CARE OF THE BEDS. 

When shallow beds are used, the soil will all need 
to be replaced each year, but in solid beds it will suffice 



J 90 



GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 




FIG, 72. INTERIOR OF I.KAN TO I.F.TTl'CK HOISK, HITTINGER BROS., 

BKLMONX, iMASS. 



PREPARATION AND TARE OF BEDS. IHI 

if three or four iiiclies of tlic sin-facc soil are removed, and 
the Ix'Jiches tilled up witli fresli manure, wliieh shoukl 
be thoroughly worked into the soil. The best compost 
for lettuce growing is made by mixing one part of fresh 
horse manure with two ])arts of rich, sandy loam. If 
this can be prepared in June, and worked over in Au- 
gust, it will be in good condition to use by the time it is 
wanted in Septeml)er. The raised beds will need about 
five or six inches of soil, and. after each crop has been 
taken off, it will be well to add about an inch of thor- 
oughly decomposed horse manure. The soil in the 
solid beds should be ten inches deep, and should also be 
top-dressed as above. 

After setting the plants, the beds should be thor- 
oughly wet down, but while the plants are small care 
should be taken not to saturate the beds, particularly 
during dull weather in the winter. On sunny days the 
plants may be syringed in the morning, but if they are 
syringed in dull weather, or at the edge of evening, it is 
likely to invite the development of mildew and rot. As 
soon as growth starts, the bed should be worked over 
with a hand weeder, and this should be repeated once in 
two weeks, until the plants cover the bed (l^ig. 72). 

The temperature of lettuce houses should be kept 
below 50 degrees at night and in dull weather, while 45 
degrees is high enough for the cabbage sorts at night. 
The houses should be kept well ventilated, using the 
sash that opens opposite to the direction of the prevailing- 
wind, whenever this is possible. Keep coolest just after 
planting and when they begin to form heads. 

The most troublesome insect pest in lettuce grow- 
ing is the green fly or aphis, but this can be kept in 
check, if taken in time, by the use of tobacco stems. It is 
well to cut them up by passing them through a hay- 
cutter or coarse sieve, and then scatter the pieces over 
the beds. The stems themselves can be used in the 



I'.)-.' GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

same way and will tend to keep tlie lly in check. As 
soon as the ju'esence of green fly can be detected, the 
house should be filled with tobacco smoke. This should 
be repeated at the end of two or three days, and, if 
properly done, the aphides will be destroyed. 

As the insects develop, the tobacco smoke does not 
seem powerful enough to destroy them, and if for any 
reason fumigation has been neglected too long to be 
eifective, resort must be had to some other insecticide. 
A strong decoction of tobacco stems and tobacco extract 
will destroy them, while pyrethrum or buhach seems 
quite effectual as a remedy against adult aphides, and 
may be put on as a dry powder with a bellows, or in 
water with a syringe, using at the rate of a tablespoon- 
ful to a gallon. When the houses are large, a small 
spraying pump will be convenient for applying these 
and similar insecticides. 

When given proper conditions, the beds planted the 
first of October can be cut for Thanksgiving purposes, 
and can be cleaned out ready to be reset by the first of 
December. The next crop will develop by the first of 
February, and the third crop will be off by the first of 
April. Under especially favorable conditions, two or 
three weeks can be gained upon this, which will allow a 
fourth crop to be taken off by the middle of April. 

About two months should be allowed for growing 
the plants after sowing the seed, and seven or eight 
weeks more for the growth of the heads after planting 
out. This wnll be none too much during the cloudy and 
short days of November and December, but as the sun 
gets higlier in February and March, six weeks will gen- 
erally suffice. 

In marketing lettuce, the heads are placed verti- 
cally in baskets or boxes (Fig. 73) when supplied to the 
local trade, or in barrels for distant shipment. It is 
best to pack the cabbage sorts with the stems u]), while 



PREPARATION AND CAKE OF BEDS. 



193 



f 

M 

H 
C3 

o 

W 
O 

•=! 
O 

O 
O 

> 

> 

to 

H 
1^ 




13 



194 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

I he Grand Rapids and similar sorts are laid on tlieir 
sides with the butts overlapping. Ventilate in warm 
weather, and line the barrels with newspapers in winter. 
Cover the top of the barrel with burlap. 

As indicated on a previous page, the Grand Rapids 
is one. of the best varieties for forcing purposes, while 
Boston Market, Hot House and Belmont are the best of 
the cabbage varieties. 

ELECTRO CULTURE OF LETTUCE. 

Some eight or ten years ago Mr. W. W. Rawson of 
Arlington, Mass., noticed that lettuce seemed to be ben- 
efited by the light from the electric street lamps, and 
to test its efficacy he placed a 2000 candle power arc 
lamp over one house, and ten 30 candle power lamps 
inside another house, with the effect of hastening the 
maturity of the crop fully five days, which would make 
a saving of fifteen days for three crops. Mr. Rawson is 
so convinced of the value of the electric light that he 
now has three 2000 candle power lights over one of his 
houses, and finds himself repaid three-fold by the effect 
on the crop. 

These results induced Prof. Bailey to make various 
tests at the Cornell Experiment Station of the efficacy 
of the electric light upon the growth of different plants. 
After several years' trial, he finds decidedly beneficial 
effects from the electric light upon large lettuce plants, 
Mud that the maturity of the crop may be hastened at 
least one week. The lights were not run more than five 
hours a night. The results obtained by Prof. Bailey 
agree quite closely with the conclusions of various French 
investigators. It was found that naked lights inside the 
house injured most plants, but when opal globes were 
used the effect was quite beneficial in the case of let- 
tuce. When the light enclosed in an opal globe was 
hung outside, about six feet above the glass, the best 



LETTUCE IN HOTBEDS. 195 

results were obtained. Even when forty feet away, the 
plants were noticeably benefited, except those newly 
transplanted, which were injured. Radishes, beets and 
spinach were also benefited Avhen the lights were placed 
outside the houses, although the naked light inside the 
house was detrimental to their growth. 

It has not been determined whether the effect of the 
light is in increasing the hours of growth, or in hasten- 
ing the rapidity at which they grow during the custom- 
ary period. The effect upon tomatoes and cucumbers is, 
if anything, injurious, and Mr. E. A. Lorentz of Orange 
County, New York, reports that with a street light 325 
feet from the house, and running every night, all night, 
radishes were induced to run to seed, and the same effect 
would have been produced upon the spinach had it been 
given time. Upon lettuce, however, the effect was ben- 
eficial, and the crop was marketed two weeks earlier 
than that grown in another house, not exposed to 
the light. 

LETTUCE 11^ HOTBEDS. 

When one has a forcing house, or can afford to build 
one, it does not pay to grow lettuce in hotbeds iu the 
Northern States earlier than the fifteenth of February 
or the first of March. If one has no forcing house, or 
other place for starting the plants, a small hotbed can 
be made for growing them as early as the middle of Jan- 
uary, and they will be large enough to transplant by tlie 
middle of February. If they are put in thickly at first, 
and again thinned out, as recommended for growing 
them in forcing houses, a large number of plants can be 
started in a small bed, and besides saving labor in caring 
for the large beds, it will admit of giving the plants a 
fresh bed when finally transplanted. 

Hotbeds can be used to good advantage in connec- 
tion with a greenhouse, as seeds planted about the first 
of February will form plants large enough to place in the 



!Mi 



(;i;i:i:n iioisr: ma n A(;i:mi;n'I". 



lioihods hy (ho lil'lotMUli lo (lie t woiUy-lil't h of l<\>l)ruarv, 
aiul will 1)0 \vi\i\y for iiiarkol as soon as (ho (hiid crop 
has b(HM\ cut froiu \\\c house. By sow ini; sihmI a( iiilcr- 
vals oT (hri'c or I'our weeks, a suecession can be obtaiiUMl 
(\\m\ hotbeds ami I'ohl iVauu's until liold-^rown crops 
nia(uie. WIumi (here is a donianil for loKneo durin*:^ 
N'(>vond)i'i\ i( can be urown in eold frames at a low eosi, 
and if tlu\\ are (K'e|) and are well eovi'red on cold nights, 
i( can bo carried un(il Thanksgivinu". 

For lio(bi>d and cold frame uses, (ho forcini;' house 
sor(s answer vi>ry well, and such varieties as (Miicaixo 
Marki't. DtMiver Market, anil Ulaek Seeded Simpson, 
will also be found desirable. 



coNDrnoNs I'oi; 8r( "ckss. 

'rin> |)rincipal reason why tlu> U't t nee specialists have 
sucli riMnarkable success is that ev(M'y (h'tail of handlin*;' 
the cro[) is properly attiMuU>d to. 

As of prime importaiu'o wt' consider (1), the char- 
iictor of (ho soil. This should 1)0 of a sandy nature, with 
less than iive per cent of clay. If the clay is ])resent in 
much larger (plant it ies thc» surfaci' of the soil, on becom- 
ing dry, will bake and form clods, and as it will remain 
wet and cold after watering, it is likidv to induce the 
appearance of the rot. A good lettui'o soil, i)roi)erly 
supplied with drainagt\ will allow the sur])lus water to 
puss through it, aud the roots will i)iMielra(e (o a much 
groalor dep(h (ban in a eold, heavier soil. 

{'i.) They not only have suitable variolies, bu( (lu> 
best growers (ako i)ains (o have seloc(ed plants from 
seleeted S(Hh1s of sidin'tcd strains o( those varieties. Hav- 
ing found a varietv adapli'tl to the wants of a particular 
nnirkel, eaoh gi'ower should rais(» his own seed, sol(>c(ing 
it from ])lants that conu' lu'arest his ideal, carefully |)ul- 
ling up all othei's before t hev ha\e blossiuns. Care 
should bi' taken to reject all of the small, light sihmis, as 



CONDITfONS roll SL'CCESS. 1 IfT 

tliey will develop mueh weaker plaiiLs lliaii will be 
obtained fVom large, [)liirn}) need. Wlieri transplaiitinfr, 
the weak plants slioiild be rejected, and in this way an 
even stand of plants will be secured that will be ready 
for cutting at the name time, tlius both securing a better 
croj) aiul a saving in time. 

()i.) Careful attention to regulating the tempera- 
ture at night and to vcntihition during the day. The 
burning of the edges of the leaves, which is so trouhh- 
some with head lettuce, is undoubtedly due to some neg- 
lect in these pai'ticulars. Sixty degrees answers well as 
a day temf)erature, but even at this, air should be given, 
and if it rises higher the ventilators should be 
opened wide. 

(4.) Securing a steady growth of the plants and 
guarding against a check. Aside from the top-dressing 
that is desirable after each crop is taken off, the applica- 
tion of a little ground bone, wood ashes and nitrate of 
soda to the surface, will both increase the size of the 
plants and hasten their maturity. 

(5.) So handling the houses that insects and fun- 
gous diseases cann(jt gain a foothold. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CUCUMBERS, TOMATOES AND MELONS AS WINTER CROPS. 

For many years, the forcing of tomatoes and cucum- 
bers for winter marketing has been quite profitable near 
some of the large eastern cities, but at the present time 
there are fewer inducements to engage in the business 
than formerly, owing in part to the low price at which 
the southern-grown crops can be placed on the northern 
market, and the competition from the large number of 
persons who are now engaged in the business. 

During tlie spring and early summer, after the time 
when lettnce can no longer be grown with success in the 
houses, there is still an opportunity of growing both of 
these crops with profit, as the houses can be used for 
nothing else at this time, and there will be but a small 
expenditure for fuel. In the winter, however, the expense 
of keeping up the necessary high temperature in the 
houses will be very large, and the prices sometimes run 
very low, but with good care fairly profitable returns 
will be secured. 

When these crops are grown in beds, a crop of beans 
or lettuce can be taken off before the entire space will be 
needed by the vines. If either cucumbers or tomatoes 
are grown in solid benches, to follow a lettuce crop, the 
growth of the plants can be hastened, and fuel can be 
saved, by digging trenches under where the rows of 
])lants are to be set, one foot wide and deep, and filling 
with fi'esh horse manure. This will gradually decom- 
pose and will furnish bottom heat to accelerate the 

198 



CUCU31BERS UKDER GLASS. 199 

growth of the plants and, later on, supply food for the 
development of the crop of fruit. 

CUCUMBERS UNDER GLASS. 

Many growers have found the cucumber a j^rofi table 
crop, particularly to follow the second or third crop of 
lettuce, to be sold during the early summer. While 
cucumbers thrive in lean-to or span-roof houses, the 
three-quarter span forcing house seems particularly 
adapted to their growth. The house should be arranged 
so as to provide for thorough ventilation, but as cold air 
is injurious to the tender plants, the ventilators should 
be so situated as to admit fresh air without producing a 
draft. Ridge ventilators, hinged at the lower side, seem 
best of all for this purpose. 

The heating apparatus should be arranged to fur- 
nish a night temperature of 65 degrees, and the pipes 
should be, at least in part, overhead. Perhaps the best 
arrangement will be to have the flow pipes overhead, 
and one or two returns on each side brought back on 
the plates, with the remainder under the benches, where 
they will provide the necessary bottom heat, when raised 
benches are used, or in the walks in houses with solid 
beds. This arrangement will prevent any downward 
currents of cold air upon the plants. The tables or beds 
may be arranged as in a rose house, or they may consist 
of a wide bench in the center and a narrow one at each 
side (Fig. 74). A house eighteen feet wide will be 
adapted for growing cucumbers, but any width up to 
thirty feet may be used, and the wider houses will gen- 
erally be preferable. 

When used as a succession crop, the cucumbers are 
not started until about December or January, but with 
a good market they will be found profitable if started 
in the fall, and fruited during the wintei*. The seeds 
should be sown either in four-inch pots, or in trans- 



300 



GREEKHOUSE MAKAGEMEl^T. 




PLANTING AISD TKAINIJ^G. 201 

planting boxes, using liglit, sandy compost. Only one 
or two plants should be allowed to grow, but it is well 
to use one or two extra seeds. When the seeds are 
sown, the pots or boxes sliould not be filled more than 
one-half full of soil, but as the plants develop they 
should be filled up with ricli compost. The seeds will 
germinate best at 70 or 80 degrees, and if started in a 
lettuce house, they should be placed in the warmest 
jiortion, upon about six inches of fresh horse manure, 
over which three inches of soil should be placed, and 
covered with hotbed sash, to hold the heat. Another 
method is to sow the seeds in flats filled with sand, and 
transplant to pots. The beds should be ten to twelve 
inches dee]), with an inch or so of drainage at the bot- 
tom. Upon the clinkers, or similar material that is used 
for this purpose, a layer of rich pasture sods should be 
placed, and on this about six inches of rich compost, 
])repared about the same as for roses, except that more 
manure is desirable, and the soil used should be of a 
rather more s-.nidy nature. While in the pots, the plants 
should not be checked by lack of water or of plant food, 
and under no conditions should they become pot-bound; 
they can be easiest cared for if plunged in a brisk bot- 
tom heat. 

PLANTING AND TKAIXING. 

When about to run, they should be planted out, 
giving each plant at least four square feet of space. 
In houses with wide beds, it will be well to have the rows 
at least three feet apart, while five or six will be prefer- 
able, and to grow the plants with two in a box or pot, 
setting them three feet apart in the rows, and training 
the plants in opposite directions. Between the rows the 
trellises are placed. These consist ot wires one foot 
apart upon either side of an A-sha]ied framework, 
extending nearly to the glass. The vine will be trained 
up on either side and it will form a series of galleries, 



202 GRESNHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

within which the cucumbers can be gathered and the 
vines tended. Still another way, in lean-to, or three- 
quarter span houses, is to plant them in rows two feet 
apart, with five or six feet between the rows, training 
them towards the south upon wire trellises inclined at 
an angle of about 45 or 50 degrees. The rows should be 
about five feet from the south side of the beds. For use 
in ordinary even-span houses, with a wide bed in the 
center, and narrow ones on the sides, a good method is to 
plant two roAVS in each of tlie side beds and four in the 
center, at intervals of two feet each way, but so that the 
plants in one row will stand halfway between those in the 
adjoining row. The wires, each of which is to support 
one of the vines, are placed one foot apart and run from 
the walls to a point below the ridge, at a distance of from 
ten to twelve inches below the glass. Stakes or strings 
are used to support the vines until they have reached the 
wires upon which they are to run. When the vines in 
the outer row have reached a point over the edge of the 
center bed, they should be pinched off, as should those 
in the center bed when they reach the ridge. This will 
cause side shoots to be sent out upon which the fruits 
will be formed. 

When grown in solid beds, the necessary bottom 
heat can be provided by making a hotbed under each 
row. When the rows are close together, it will be nec- 
essary to place the heating material under the entire 
bed, but if three feet or more apart, it will only be nec- 
essary to make a bed of fresh horse manure, about one 
foot wide and deep, which is tramped down and covered 
with eight inches of soil. When upon raised beds, the 
required bottom heat can be secured from steam or hot 
water pipes, as can also be done in solid beds. 

To supply a crop during the early winter, the seed 
should be sown about the first of August, and can be 
transplanted to the bed in about one month. In less than 



POLLIKATIOK. 303 

two months after being placed in the beds the cucumbers 
should be ready for market. If to follow the second 
crop of lettuce that will be taken off in January, the 
seed should be sown the first of December, and after 
being transplanted into four- or five-inch pots, will be 
ready to be placed in the beds as soon as they are filled 
with roots. 

For a few days after the plants are set in the beds, 
the temperature at night should not be above 60 degrees, 
but as soon as the plants are established it should be 
gradually raised to 65 degrees at night, and it may reach 
80 or 85 degrees during the day if the sun is shining, 
but it will be desirable not to have it above 70 degrees 
in cloudy weather. With tins high temperature, there 
is great danger of red spider, and the walks should be 
wet down morning and evening, and the plants should 
be occasionally syringed on bright mornings, with water 
from which the chill has been taken. 

Unless the soil is deep and rich, liquid manure can 
be used to advantage once a week after the roots have 
penetrated all parts of it, especially if the plants are 
close together, and mulching is also advisable. 

POLLINATION". 

In order to secure the development of fruit upon 
most of the common varieties of cucumbers, artificial 
fertilization of the flowers must be resorted to, when 
they are grown in forcing houses during the winter, 
unless a hive of bees is placed in the house for the pur- 
pose of carrying the pollen from the staminate flowers to 
tiie pistils. It can be done by taking the pollen upon a 
small brush and dusting it over the pistils, and will be 
necessary unless some of the English forcing varieties 
are grown. They will develop without pollen, and it is 
thought by some growers that they should not be polli- 
nated, as it is likely to cause an enlargement at the ends 
of the fruit. Of course, the seeds will not fill out unless 



f;*4 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT, 



It^ 



,'«^ 



*fci> 



JWflfiv 



r^iU 



\H^ 



Vw^ttii 




SION HOUSE. DUKE OF EDINBURGH. TELEGRAPH. 

PIG. 75. ENGLISH FORCING CUCUMBERS. TYPICAL FORMS GROWN AT 

CORNELL EXPERIMENT STATION. 



VARIETIES. 205 

the flowers are fertilized, and this will be an improve- 
ment, ill addition to wiiat is gained in the improved 
form of the fruits, and in labor. 

As the fruits develop, the larger ones should be sup- 
ported by slings of .raffia, to relieve the vines of their 
weight and prevent their being torn from their supports, 
but if the vines are carefully tied to the trellis, with 
raffia, the ordinary varieties can be grown without tying 
up the fruits. The crop should be ready for market in 
from sixty to eighty days from the date of sowing the seed. 

VARIETIES. 

For most markets the common garden varieties are 
the only ones that are profitable, the White Spine and a 
strain known as Arlington White Spine being most 
commonly grown. The English forcing cucumbers have 
a flavor distinctly their own, and retain their green color 
much longer than the ordinary sorts. They often reach 
a length of two feet, and are edible after they attain 
their full development. Of the forcing sorts, Sion 
House (Fig. 75) is most commonly grown. It is smooth, 
regular in shape, and something over a foot in length ; 
Telegraph is long, smooth and slender, with a length of 
from sixteen to twenty inches ; Marquis of Lome is still 
larger, and is an excellent variety for one of its size. 
Duke of Edinburgh is another very long variety. In 
growing cucumbers under glass, the black plant louse 
and the spotted mite are quite troublesome, but they can 
readily be kept in check by syringing the plants with 
fir tree oil, or tobacco water. 

The plants are also suVjject to the attack of various 
fungous diseases, one of the most injurious of which is 
the powdery mildew. For diseases of tliis kind, evapo- 
rated sulphur will be found an excellent remedy. 

THE FORCING OF TOMATOES. 

The tomato flourisiies under about the same con- 
ditions as the cucumber, and may be grown in the same 



;^()(l GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

house, with oooil results. Tf it is (h>siiv(l, two crops cmi 
be gTowu, one ripeuing in December iun\ tiie otlier in 
April. Kor tlie iirst eroj), tlie seed sbouUi be sown iu 
July, and tlie seedlings transphiiited into shallow boxes 
iu Auiiust ; about the tirst of Se})teuibei- tlu>v uiay be 
placed in four-inch pots, or again in Hats, and bv the 
tirst of October may receive their final transplant- 
ing. This can be into ten-inch pots, into beds similar 
to those used for cucumbers, or into deep boxes. If 
grown in pots or beds, the soil should be })repared in the 
same way as for cucumbers ; if boxes are used, they 
should be one foot deep and from ten to eighteen inches 
square, according to the number of plants grown in 
them. The large size with four plants will, perhaps, give 
best results. Unless a large crack has been left in the 
bottom of the box, several holes should be made, in 
order to provide thorough drainage. For commercial 
growing, the use of beds is preferable, with two rows 
of plants on side benches three to three and one-half 
feet wide; from eighteen to twenty inches each way will 
be right for wider beds. 

If a succession is desired, seeds may be sown at 
intervals of four weeks, and for the second main cro}) 
the sowing should be nuide about the first of December. 
When the plants are desired to follow the crop of let- 
tuce taken oif in February, the seeds may also be sown 
at that date. The same care will be required as for the 
seeds sown in August. 

The best temperature for the tomato for the first 
few weeks after jdanting is abont 55 degrees, but when 
established it should be raised to about (>5 degrees, and 
should not be allowed to fall below 00 degrees at 
night. During the day the temperature nuiy run up to 
75 or 80 degrees, but ventilation should be given when it 
can be done without creating a draft or dr<>])]>iug the 
temperature below 05 or 70 degrees. If only a cool 



THE FORCING OF TOMATOES. 



20' 



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f 

H 

cj 

W 

> 

o 
O 

tr" 
w 
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20S GREENHOUSE MANACtEMEXT. 

house is avtiilahlo for shirtin^ii- (lie jtlaiils, ji hotbed 
should be made for ilieiii. the same as for the encumber. 
As recommended for the cucumber, it is well to fill 
the pots or boxes only about half full at first, thus allow- 
ing of the application of a liberal amount of rich com- 
post, when needed 

TRAINING AND PRUNING. 

As soon as the plants start into growth after being 
finally transplanted, some arrangement should be made 
for supporting them. They may be tied to stakes (Fig. 
70) with raffia, or, which is perhaps a better method, to 
vertical snpports of linen twine. If a stent wire is rnn 
along the rafters over each row of plants, the twine can 
be fastened to it as a support, while the lower end can 
be held in place by a stake, inserted near the plants, or it 
can be tied to the plant near the ground. Others use 
trellises similar to those described for the cncnmber. 
If early fruits are desired, the vines should be trained 
to simple shoots, and all snckers that form in the axils 
should be rubbed out as soon as they show themselves. 
At the hight of six feet, the growth of the main shoot 
should be sto])ped. If the growth is so rank as to shade 
the plants, some of the larger leaves should be pinched 
off, but if they have plenty of light and air, the leaves 
should all be allowed to develop, unless they become 
diseased, when they should be removed and burned. 

AVhen the crop is not particularly needed as an early 
one, two or three shoots maybe trained from eacli plmt, 
if desired. In either case, the method of ])runing and 
training is the same, and the shoots should be tied at 
frequent intervals, to hold them in place. If tiie plants 
have been set about twenty inches apart each way (from 
eighteen to twenty-four according to the variety), the 
pruning recommended above will be ample. 

For the winter and early spring crops, artificial fer- 
tilization of the blossoms is very desirable. At the 



VARIETIES. . 2(l9 

i'lmv the pollen is shed, the liousc should he kept quite 
warm and the atmosphere dry. By geutly shaking or 
tapi)ing the blossom shoots, the ])o]len will be scattered 
to some extent, but larger and more regular fruits will 
be obtained if the flowers are artificially cross-fertilized. 
Perhaps the easiest way of doing this is to take pollen, 
obtained from flowers collected the previous summer 
and dried, upon a small paddle and touch it to the 
stigmas of the flowers. Bees may also be used for fer- 
tilizing this cro[). As the fruits develop, if large vari- 
eties are grown, it will pay to support the clusters by 
means of slings of raffia. From the i)lants started about 
the first of August, fruit should be obtained in Novem- 
ber, and from three to four months will be required by 
the spring crop after the seed is sown. 

VARIETIES. 

In selecting varieties for forcing, the very early 
angular sorts should not be chosen, as, when forced, 
they are very small and irregular ; neither should the 
very large, rough sorts be used, as they will be more 
irregular than when grown in the open air. The Beauty 
is one of the best of the purple sorts, and Ignotum and 
Volunteer, of the red kinds, answer well for the spring 
crop, but as an early winter variety, the Advance, or 
Lorillard, should l)e used. Nicholson is also well 
adapted to winter forcing. From two to five pounds per 
phuit, according to the season, would be a fair crop, and 
the wholesale price will vary from ten cents per pound 
in May, to forty or fifty in January, and at this rate will 
be quite remunerative. 

GEN'ERAL RULES. 

To obtain the best results in forcing tomatoes dur- 
ing the winter months: (1.) The house must be built so as 
to afford the plants as much sunlight as possible ; it 
should have a space of at least six feet above the tables, 
14 



210 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



and tlie heating apparatus sliould be ample to keep the 
Iiouse at CO dogr(>es during the coldest weather. (2.) The 
phints sliould be of forcing varieties and should never be 
subjected to a check for want of food, water, air, or 
warmth, or from an excess of any of these. (3.) In 
watering, use enough water to moisten the entire soil, 
and tlien withhold until the plant shows signs of need- 
ing more. When the plants are small, and at other 
times when the fruit is not setting, syringe the plants on 




FIG. 77. GROWING MUSHU(JOMS t).\ (iUElCNHOl'SE HENCHES. 

bright da3^s and keep the walks wet down. Whenever 
fruit is setting, the house should be kept warm and dry. 
The atmosphere can be deprived of much of its moisture 
by ventilating during the warm part of the day. 

The red spider is one of the w^orst enemies in the 
tomato forcing-house, but the above treatment will keep 
it in check. If the soil is kept too wet, the develop- 
ment of nematodes or eel worms upon the roots is 
invited and they frequently rot off. The stems and 
foliage are also attacked by various bacterial and fun- 



MUSHROOM CULTURE. 211 

gous diseases. They are induced by overwatering, or 
ventilating, and by syringing the phints upon dull days 
and late in the day, when tlie moisture remains a long 
time upon the foliage. When fungi of any kind appear, 
the diseased portion should be burned and the plants 
syringed with ammoniated copper carbonate, or copper 
suli^hate solution. 

MELONS. 

During the early summer, vegetable houses can 
often be used for forcing melons, with profit. They 
should be started in March, and grown in four-inch pots 
until the lettuce or other crop is taken off in April. 
The care is the same as for the cucumber. Hackensack 
is one of the best sorts for the puri)ose. 



CHAPTER XV. 

MUSHROOM CULTURE. 

It often happens that in greenhouses there is no 
occasion for using the space beneath the benches for 
ordinary greenhouse croj^s, and many florists have found 
in the mushroom a crop that can be grown at a slight 
extra expense of labor and material, and if a good yield 
is obtained the proceeds may more than equal those from 
the plants grown on the bench itself. If any of the 
tables are not to be used until spring, a mushroom bed 
can also be made upon them, and the crop can be har- 
vested before the bench is needed. 

The best results are obtained at temperatures of from 
55 to 60 degrees, and this is secured in the average green- 
house. When houses are run at a slightly lower tem- 
perature, a larger amount of heating material can be 



212 



GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



used, and if the sides of the table are closed in, the tem- 
perature can be kept at tbe desired point. The great 
trouble in growing mushrooms under the benches is in 




the soaking of the bed by the drip, but when the plants 
on the benches are planted out, there will be less drip 
than when grown in ])ots, ami with care in watering, 
no harm need be done. If drip cannot be prevented in 



PREPARATION' UF THE MATERIAL. 213 

any other manner, it can be kept from the mushnjom 
bed by placing spare shutters or glass sash over the bed, 
at an angle so that the water will be carried away. Fig. 
77 illustrates the use of spare benches in the greenhouse, 
for mushroom growing, while Fig. 78 shows the results 
that may be obtained under the benches. 

In growing the niushroom, quite a quantity of 
manure is required, and it is considerable labor to pre- 
pare it and to make the bed, but as the manure, after 
being used to grow the mushroom, is worth as much as 
before for many greenhouse crops, the labor of prei)ara- 
tion only can be charged to the mushrooms. Mush- 
rooms are usually grown in cellars, where the heat and 
moisture can be controlled, but they can even be grown 
successfully in open sheds during the fall, and in Eng- 
land tliey are very largely grown in the open air. When 
grown in hothouses, the thing to avoid is an excess of 
heat, which would destroy the bed, but in the ordinary 
rose houses, or those of a still lower temperature, they 
can be grown without difficulty. 

PREPARATION OF THE MATERIAL. 

For the growing of mushrooms, fresh horse manure 
is necessary, and if this is carefully prepared, if the 
spawn is good and if the proper conditions are given, 
mushrooms are (piite a sure crop. For this purpose, the 
horses should be fed on hay and grain and not on roots, 
as they injure the manure for mushroom beds. It has 
been recommended by some, that all straw be shaken 
out and only the clean droppings used, but while it is 
not dosiral)le to use the clean straw from the bedding, if 
it is urine-soaked it may be used to advantage to the 
extent of at least one- half. Manure that has been made 
for several weeks, if it has not become ''fire-fanged," can 
be used, and, in fact, it is better to use manure that has 
been well j)acked down in a pile for a montli, even, than 
to take manure as made in small <juantities, placed in a 



214 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

pile and forked over every day until a supply is obtained 
for the bed, as is recommended by some authors. When 
fresh manure is used, tlie crop comes on quickly, and 
although it may last only a short time, it will be fully 
as large as one from old manure, which will last twice as 
long, and occupy the space for that much longer time. 

Having obtained a sufficient quantity of manure, it 
should be prepared for use in the bed. This can best be 
done under a shed, as the rain will then be kept off, and 
the manure wdll be less subjected to the drying action of 
the sun and wind, although during the summer and 
early autumn months, the manure may be prepared in 
the open air, if the pile is kept covered with straw and 
mats, or shutters, to keep off the rain. If a sufficient 
amount cannot be obtained at one time, care should be 
taken that what is first obtained does not burn or fire- 
fang. It should be placed in a pile, and after being lev- 
eled off should be well tramped. If it show^s signs of 
heating, it is w^cU to spread it out, and after it has 
become cool, replace as before. As soon as a sufficient 
supply has been secured, it should be worked over and 
broken up, thoroughly mixing it together, rejecting all 
2)oi'tions that are *'burnt," as well as the coarse, dry 
straw and all foreign matters. 

It is then placed in beds about three feet high, and 
five or six wide, leveling off the pile and packing it down 
with the fork. If the manure is at all dry, it is well to 
moisten each layer, using tepid water, if convenient, 
particularly in the winter. As soon as fermentation 
begins and the pile has warmed through, the mass 
should be turned over and made into a rectangular bed, 
as before. As it is being worked over, it should be well 
shaken out, and the outside poi-tions worked into the 
center. If any of the manure seems dry, it may again 
be watered, using a Avatering pot Avith a tine rose, and, if 
the pile was well warmed through, it will be Avell to 



PKEPA RATION OF THE MATERIAL. 215 

tread the bed liglitly, as it is made np, tluis lessening 
the liability of burning in the center. In porhai)S tliree 
or four days, the mass will again warm up, and before it 
has had time to burn, it should be again turned over ; 
the turning should be repeated generally from three to 
five times. 

The working over is for the purpose of securing a 
regular, even heat throughout the pile, and of prevent- 
ing *'fire-fanging." As the mass warms up, the rapidity 
of fermentation can be checked by firmly tramping the 
pile, as it is worked over. The turning should be kept 
up until the violent heat is over, and the strong offen- 
sive odor has been dissipated. Wlien projierly purified 
and sweetened, the bed should be a homogeneous mass 
of a warm brown color, and with a *^sweet," agreeable 
atid slightly pungent odor. If properly prepared, the 
nuiterial should have a greasy appearance, but should 
not be so moist as to allow even a drop of water to be 
squeezed out. Most growers add to the manure about 
one-fourtli its bulk of loam, the amount varying with 
the freshness of the manure, more being used when it is 
fresh than if decomposed. The addition of the loam is 
thought to benefit by hindering decomposition and thus 
extending the productiveness of the bed ; it also serves 
to retain the ammonia and in this way may be of value, 
although its use is not regarded as necessary, and it is 
entirely dispensed with by some growers. 

The loam is generally obtained from land that has 
not been pastured for two years at least, as it otherwise 
might contain worthless fungi that would prove trouble- 
some, although by some of the most successful growers 
this precaution is considered unnecessary. The manure 
may be mixed with the loam, at the time it is first piled 
up, at any time during its preparation, or when ready to 
be placed in the mushroom bed, but an excellent plan is 
to U3e it to cover the pile, after it has been worked over 



216 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

once or twice, and then as it receives its next working it 
can be thoroughly mixed with it. By incorporating it 
with the manure at this time, it will serve to lessen the 
danger of burning, and the pile need not be turned as 
frequently. Ordinary field loam will answer, but Mr. 
Falconer recommends the use of sod loam, if the mate- 
rial in the spent bed is to be used for potting plants, 
which would certainly make it more valuable for that 
purpose. 

MAKING THE BED. 

The depth of the bed should depend upon the fresh- 
ness of the material and the location of the bed, so far 
as tlie temperature of the surrounding air is concerned. 
With fresh manure alone, in a warm place, nine inches 
will answer, but if loam has been added it should be 
from ten to twelve inches deep. Decomposed manure 
would need to be made about three inches deeper than 
that in a fresh state, but should not be used in a cool 
place, without the addition of fresh droppings. In 
making the beds in a greenhouse, the top should be 
level, or with a slight slope toward the walk. Perhaps 
the best plan is to have the bed at the front about nine 
inches deep, and at the rear twelve inches. 

Whether made under the benches or upon them, it 
is well to have a board of the proper Avidth along the 
front. If the space allows, it is an excellent plan to 
place a hotbed frame under or upon the bed, or at least 
to place boards about six feet apart, to form the edges 
of the mushroom bed, which should then be covered 
with hotbed sash or shutters. The manure should be 
shaken evenly over the bed, packing it down with a fork, 
thus filling it up in thin, even layers spread over the 
surface. When a bed is filled, a gentle treading will 
benefit it, and when under the greenhouse benches, the 
desired result can be secured bv beatino- it down Avith a 
brigk, or Avooden pounder. Unless thorough ventilation 



MUSHROOM SPAWK. 217 

can be given, tlie surface of the bed should be covered 
with three or lour inches of dry straw, as the moisture 
arising from tlie bed would be condensed upon the sur- 
face, and render it cold and wet. 

A thermometer should now be inserted, that the 
temperature of the interior of the bed may be noted. 
If properly prepared, it will rise at first to 115 or 125 
degrees, but it should not go much above this. Should 
the temperature reach 130 degrees, it is well to cool 
down the surface in some way, either by forking it over 
to the depth of tliree or four inches, or by ventilating, 
by making holes with a dibble. As soon as the excess 
of the heat has passed off, the bed should be again com- 
pacted, and the holes carefully filled. Should it happen 
that, owing to the use of partially rotten manure, the 
temperature does not get above 80 degrees, it will be well 
to strengthen the bed by adding a couple of inches of 
fresh droppings, which should be well worked in. A 
temperature of 75 or even 70 degrees, if proper material 
was used in the bed, will, however, suffice, and the bed 
will last longer than if a high temperature was secured. 
When the bed has cooled down to 85 degrees, the spawn 
may be inserted. 

MUSHROOM SPAWN. 

The term spawn is given to the white, threadlike 
netwoj'k that makes up the real body of the fungus, 
wdiile the mushroom, or edible portion, is merely the 
fruit stalk. The spaw^n, or mycelium, spreads through 
the soil and after gathering a sufficient amount of food, 
the fruit stalk is sent up, on Avhich the spores or seeds 
of the fungus are developed. While the si)ores, under 
proper conditions, w^ill develop the fiinous, this method 
is not resorted to in practice, as the spawn used in start- 
ing new l)eds is secured ))y a ])r()cess of division similar 
to the growing of flowering plants from cuttings. If 



:i8 



GREEXHOISE MAN^AGEMENT. 



portions of old mushroom bods, containing tlie spawn in 
the form of white threads, are ])hiced in a dry phice, tliey 
will preserve their vitality for several years, but should 
not be relied upon for spawning mushroom beds. 

As generally used, however, musliroom spawn is in 
the form of bricks, or Hakes, the former being known as 
English and the latter as French spawn. It is all im- 
ported, and the amount used is steadily increasing, the 
annual consumption being several hnndix'd thonsand 
pounds. The bricks (Fia. T9) are about eight inches 
long, five inches wide and one and one-fourth inches 




FKi. 79. BKICK SPAWN. 

thick. They are made by mixing two parts of fresh 
horse manure, one part cow manure and one part loam, 
and adding a little chopped straw. This is made of 
about the consistency of mortar, and after being worked 
over two or three times, at intervals of two days, it can 
be nnide into bricks with molds, or by cutting it wirh a 
spade ; when first made, the usual size of a brick is nine 
by six by two iiu'lu\<. They should be set on edge and 
placed in the siin and air for ;i few days, and when about 
half dry a small ])iece of s])awn should be [)laced in the 
center of each brick, carefully filling up the holes with 



MUSHROOM SPAWN. 21 9 

fresli brick material. A mild hotbed is then made, upon 
which the bricks are stacked and covered with litter to 
hold the heat. If kept at ai)out GO degrees, the myce- 
lium will soon run through the bricks ; as soon as the 
white threads have run through the mass, and before 
the tubercles have formed, the bricks should be taken 
out and dried. 

The French spawn (Fig. 80) is prepared by treat- 
ing fresh horse manure in about the same way as if for 
a mushroom bed, except that chopped litter is used 
instead of loam, 'i'his may be spread in a layer about 
three inches deep, and after scattering over it some good 



FIG. 80. FRENCH SPAWN. 



spawn, it should be pounded down; two or three more 
layers of manure may then be added, with spawn upon 
each, and the bed then covered with loam to tlie depth 
of three or four inches. The bed should be kept rather 
dry, and at the end of about six or eight weeks tlie 
spawn will have run through the bed. This stage should 
be carefully looked for, and when reached the bed should 
be broken up and carefully dried. The French spawn 
will go about twice as f«ir as the English in spawning 
the bed, but the mushrooms, as a rule, are not more than 
two-thirds as large, and the number is also considerably 
smaller. 



The v^jKiwn should \ua bo insiuiod until [\\c uinpor- 
atun^ oJt tlio bod at two iuohos boK>\v tiu* surfjuv has fal- 
len to iH> iloii'nvs, Whon brioks luv uj^ovI, thov sluuild 
Went into twelve lU" tifioon pieoes, and inserieil in thi> 
Inni at iuter\als of ton lo iwolvo inohos. jii> that ihov will 
Ih' ov^veivd fullv an iuoh. Tho tlako spawn should Ih^ 
instn'ted in about iho s^uuo wav. using alnuit ono-half 
as nuioli. 

If grown in a oool plai'o. or if thoro is danger from 
moist\uv, it is well tooovorlho bod. after spawning, with 
two or three iuohos v>f litter, if it is not to bo nuddod at 
onee. By molding is nieant» eovering the bod with loam 
to the de}Uh of about lwi> iuohos. This oau bo done 
imnieiliaielv .after spawning, but unless the ovuulitions 
are partieularlv favorable, it will be jjafer to dola\ it 
until from the tifth to tho tiM\th vlav. \ot it should not 
be \n\l o\X after tho twelfth dav from sp.awniug. Tho 
loam used for this pnrpv^so should bo abiuit the same as 
for pivpariug tho bed. Sod frv>m an i>ld pasture, ganlou 
soil or sandv loam, will answer, but any soil oontaining 
uuioh olay or a ovuisidentblo ipuintity of sand should bo 
rejeetod. All elods and eoarso nuittu-ial of all kii\ds 
sliould be thrown out. and it should then be plaootl over 
all exposed parts of the bod, to tho depth o( from i>no 
and ono-half to two iuohos, and tirmlv piU'Koil di>wn. 
partioularl\ on tho edges o( tho bods. 

OAKt: or iMir t^KO. 

The best results are obtained w Iumi tho bods are in 
an atmospheiv of about oS degrees; this oau vary four 
or five degrees eaeh way, but if niisod alnno (>o dogioos 
a failure may bo expoetod. (hi tht^ other htnul. thi> 
tem^Hniituiv of tho air may fall sovoral dogroos below tho 
fi^EVzing point, but if tho Invl is oioorod with si>voral 
iuohos of litter, and tho heat is ko[>t in by nuvms of mats 



WATKRIN'O rUE BEDi^, 221 

arjd blankolH, no Ijurm will bo done. For all t^^mpera- 
turc'H under 4o iUtiirintn, covering hIjouM not be nejrleeted. 
In warm roornn, and after the air beeonieH warm in Hum- 
mer, tlie muhli rooms will be Jigbt and with long Bpin- 
dling gtemH, while the bed will Boon be exhausted. When 
kept at 05 to 58 degrees, tlje mushroomn will appear in 
seven or eight weeks, a^;cording to the warmth 
of the bed, after HpawTiing, while at 00 degrees, it 
may not be much over six weeks, but the crojj will 
not last. 

WATERING iJfi: liEDS. 

When properly prepared, especially if the bed is in 
a cellar, or in a shaded house, watering should not Ix; 
necessary, but when artificial heat is used the beds 
quickly dry out, and should be watered, if the mush- 
rooms have begun to form. The water should be at 90 
\() 100 degrees, and should be used in sufficient quantity 
to wet down the mulch. If clean, soft water is used, it 
may touch the small muHhrooms without injuring them, 
and may be used in suflicient quantity to moisten the 
covering soil, but it nhould not ramU the, manure. As 
soon as th(.' rmi-hroonjs Jire up, liquid njanui-e or fresh 
urine may be used with good effect. If the 
air is not dried out by the heating f)ipes, a sufficient 
degree of moisture can be maintairjcd by sprinkling 
the walks. Wafer should never be used at tlie 
time the spawn is beginning to run, as it may ruin 
the bed. 

rjATFTKHryr; the crop. 

In England, where muslirooms are so commonly 
grown, they are distinguished according to their devel- 
opment, as ''buttons," "cups" and ''broilers." The 
"buttons" are the mushrooms gathered while quite 
small, and before the "veil," or the membrane which 
connects the cu]> with the stem, bursts ; they are always 



.^' T^ G Ri: !• X 1 1 ( ) r S I-: Ar A X A ( ^ !■ M K T^T. 

i;:illiorod at this st;ii;v ^\hcu uschI for soups, ;nul if i;r()\vii 
froiu Kiviu'Ii spawn, 

Tlio English musliroonis, if to ho usotl for olhor 
])urp()sos ilian in soups, may ho gathorod just aftor tlio 
frill hroaks, whon I hoy aro kiu)\vn as onps, or mav ho 
loft unlil llio ou})s hogin to opon out Hat, wiion tluMr nso 
is indioatod hy tho iianu^ tliat has hoou givon thoni, 
hroilors. Care shouUl bo takon to gathor thoni hoforo 
tlie gills turn hi-own, as thoy will lose thoir flavor and 
become tough and loathory. While broilers weigh con- 
siderably nu)re than oups or buttons, they do not bring- 
as muoh ])or pound, and as the bod will be exhausted 
muoh sooiuM- whon thoy are allowotl to develop than if 
l)iokod before tho frill breaks, it is not always profitable 
to grow them to tho largest size. The oup is the size 
most generally marketed, and they are gathered by giv- 
ing them a sharp twist and ])ull, and placing in baskets 
with the stems down. Pulling will he found jiroforablo to 
cutting, as none of tho I'rop will then bo wastciband tho 
mushrooms will keep fresh longer than if the stems 
are cut otY. 

When mushrooms are gathered, it is best- to take all 
that will answer, and the picking should be at frocpuMit 
intervals, that none may become too old. In pai'king 
tho mushrooms, they should first be sorted into throe 
sizes, and after removing all dirt with a soft brush, pack 
them carefully in the boxes or baskets provided for the 
pur[)ose. If to be sout any distance, a shallow, wooden 
box will bo desirable, but for local nuirkets, lio:ht has- 
kets holding from one to ten pounds, aooording to the 
wants of tho custonuM's, may be used. The mushrooms 
should bo packed (]uito tirndy, and if mow than two layers 
aro })laced in the jiaokagos, they should bo separated by 
soft paper, (^uo-pouiul pac>kagos are most O(uumouly used. 

A well-made mushroom hod will remain in bearing 
about til roe mcmths. and although if ko}>t at too low a 



A NKW MI'SHIiOOM. 2'Z'\ 

IcnijX'riil iiiv' i( m;iy cojitiniK! io y\c\i\ a crop for five oi" 
six riioiiUis, tlic loliil \\i'\*^\\\, will ho no riKjro tljiin in the 
firsl; cjiHo. The spawn (;iin prodiuM; uboui ho many mush- 
roorriK and will kcf^p on, over a |)orio<J varying with the 
KurroundingH, until it hoconics oxliau.stod. One ])ound 
per s(jnaj'o foot i.s an exccllc^it ci'op, while lialf that 
(pijuitity is a good average;, and niushi-oornH Hcldorn sell 
for IcHS than fifty eontw p(!r ])oiind w holcsah; in the winter 
rnonl-liH. \Vh(!n the crop has been taken ofT, if the litter 
is removed, the bed moistened with liikewjirm watei*, an 
inch or two of loam added and the litter re[)laeed, a 
second crop can generally be obtained. 

The mushrooms arc attacked by a number of insects, 
and for descrii)tion and remedies the reader is referred 
to the chii[)t,er treating on "Insects and Diseases." 

A NEW MUSHROOM. 

In the summer of 1891, Mr. Ikjulon, a market gar- 
denei- on I^ong Island, New Yoi-k, discovered a new form 
of mushi-oom, which gave such returns that be grew it 
largely the following year. In 1892, the same form 
came under the eye of Wm. r'alconer, then editor of 
(j/ardeni?(f/, who brought it to the attention of J*rof. C 
IT. Peck, who ]»i-onounced it a new species and named it 
Af/arirns mihriifesams. It diifers from oui- common 
mushroom in being larger and coarser, with a lighter 
yellow neck aiul white gills. Tiic cap is broader and 
thinner and somewhat lighter in color. AVhcn grown 
out of doors, it lias a coarse, mushroom-like appeanince, 
but in tbe bouse, es])ecially if in darkness, it seems to 
bleach out and lose its coarseness. 

It is an excellent mushroom for growing in the 
Slimmer, as it develof)s so rnpidly that it almost escapes 
the m.'iggot, and it does equally well in winter, provided 
it can be given a high temperature. Beds made under- 
neath the benches, where under-bench piping is used. 



\? J I (^, K K K M Un S K MAN V » ; K M K N V. 

aviioniliv do woU if oovt'ii'vl \\\*U a tbii'k luuKli io ictain 
llio luoistiiiv. Uosiilos nH|uirinu" nu>ro lioat than »nir 
ooiuu\on nuislu'vHMu, it also iiooils muoh uum'o nuusturo, 
ami maiiv o( tlio failiuvs tliai ha\o boon hum wiili i;i\nv- 
iuii' it can iivnorallv l>e triuod to tlio laok of t>no or ti\c 
other. As a rule, howovor, it has boon found ratlior 
irroguhir in boarin^-, but whon ouo learns its prv^por oaro. 
it isoortaiulv proniisiug- as a winior uiushrooni. and vorv 
valuable for sunuuer i:ri>\vini:\ 

Ouriui: the sunuuer a hotbed has been found to 
answer well for i:rv>\vini: this nuishroom (I'^K- '^^^• 




*'U;. SI. IHK NKW Ml SUKOOM y.ititirifUS siif>riirV.-:rt lis^ IN \ rol,l> 

KKAMK. 

After the bed is spawned siuue other erop niav be put in 
atul can be taken otT before the uiushrooiu will appear. 

.\ eillAr MlSHKOONl HOI SK. 

^Fauv persons desire to arow niiishroouis who per- 
haps have uo oiveuhouse, or who have no plaee in it 
suitable for thoiu. Aside from the needed heating a[)pa- 



A CHEAP Ml'SIfliOOM HOf SK. ;>25 

ratus, a Iiouhc tliat will anKwcj" for llio jiurpoHP oar) bo 
conKtrncted at a KMiall coM,. 

A coiivciiicril fojii) i- built about the name as a nar- 
row evon-Kpan groeiiljoiiHe, except that there is but little 
j(laHH in the roof and gables. Use posts about nine feet 
long, and having made an excavation three and one-half 
feet deep, twelve feet wide and of the desired length, set 
them around it aljout four feet apart, and so that they 
will be two feet in the ground. Double board upon the 
outside of the posts, and conjplete tiie gables and roof 
the same as if for a barn. A still cheajjer roof can be 
constructed b}' using boards covered with hay. A small 
sash every fifteen feet along the roof will give all the 
light needed to handle the crop. l^ank the excavated 
soil against the outside of the walls, up to the level of the 
plate. Constructed in this way there will be room for 
three beds, one above the other along each wall, with a 
three-foot walk in the center. The bottom tier of beds 
should be made on the floor, and if the others are placed 
thirty inches apart, it will give space for the making of 
the beds and caring for the crop. With the walls well 
banked, the necessary heat can be provided by four or 
five ojie and one-half-inch hot water pipes. 

If a house twenty feet wide is prefei'red, it should, 
in addition to the three tiers of beds along each side, 
have three or foui- beds six feet w^ide in a rack through 
the center of the house. 



la 



CHAPTER XVI. 

ASPARAGUS, RHUBAKB AXP CAIXIFLOWER. 

The foroiiii:: of the?o vogottiblos in tlio aivonboiise is 
becoming an important industry with many llorists, as 
nearly all the money obtained for them is elear gaii^ '. 
the space they occupy is luit likely to be used for otlier 
purposes and there is no outlay except a snuill anuuint 
foi- labor, and this is paid for several foki by the returns 
from the crops. 

ASPARAGUS FORCING. 

The plants used for forciui^ asparagus are fron\ old, 
out-of-door plantations, or they may be grown from seed 
to the age of three years, the seed being sown early in the 
spring in drills fifteen inches apart, upon rich and mod- 
erately heavy sandy loam. One pouiul of seed will be 
sutlicient for 200 feet of drill. As the seed is slow to 
germinate, it is well to sow with it a few radish seeds, 
which will soon a})pear and will mark the line of the 
drill so that cultivation can begin at once. The seeds 
should be covered one inch or slightly more, and the 
soil compacted. The seeds need good cultivation the 
first year, and the following spring can be planted out to 
develop strength. As they will remain only two years, 
they can be placed quite thickly, if the soil is well 
enriched. A space of two and one-half by one foot for 
each plant will answer, although a little more is desira- 
ble. Here they are grown for two seasons, and can be 
dug just before the ground freezes, and used for forcing 
purposes. kSIucc the sowing ()f the seed, a period of two 



ASPARAGUS FORCING. 227 

years and six months lias ela[)secL I'lie })laiits can be 
forced in almost any place where a temperature of fifty 
or sixty degrees can be secured, bat the llorist will gen- 
erally utilize some of the space under his benches, or it 
may be he has a solid bed or even a raised bed for which 
he lias no use for a season. Tlie soil should be a rich, 
sandy loam with arrangements for thorough drainage. 

For early cutting, they can be planted at the time of 
digging, about the middle of November, while the bal- 
ance of the plants should be stored in a pit or cool cellar 
and brought in at intervals of four weeks, to give a suc- 
cession. The plants should be set from six to twelve 
inches apart, each way, according to their size, and 
should be well wet down. For the first ten days after 
setting, they should be kept rather cool (45 to 50 
degrees) and given a chance to establish themselves. 
Afterward, the temperature should be raised to 55 or 00 
degrees, and if still higher it will aid in the forcing proc- 
ess and should be given, if needed, for other plants. 
During the day it can be run up as high as 80 to 85 
degrees. The asparagus will use a large amount of water, 
but unless it has had the chill taken off, and ample means 
for drainage provided, it can do far more harm than good. 

In sotting out the asparagus in the house, the crowns 
should be covered about an inch, except in localities 
where a blanched article is required, in which case, 
unless they can be shut in from the light, additional 
soil should be added. In about six weeks from the time 
of i^lanting, cutting can begin and will continue accord- 
ing to the temperature and the strength of the plants 
until they are exhausted. They can then be thrown out 
and the space filled with others. If care is taken to secure a 
succession, asparagus can be cut continually from Christ- 
mas until the field-grown article is offered in the s])ring. 

Aspanigus may also be grown in cold frames. The 
plants should be set about one foot each way, and at the 



22S GREENHOUSE MA:N"AGEMENT. 

end of two years a crop may be taken. In tlie fall, put 
up the frame and fill it with horse manure, banking up 
against the outside of the frame with the same material. 
Cover Avith sash and shutters to keep out the frost. 
Early in March, remove the manure over the plants, wet 
down the beds thoroughly, and handle the same as any 
cold frame. 

V^^INTER RHUBARB. 

With but few changes, the directions given for the 
forcing of asparagus will apply to rhubarb. The drills 
should be somewhat further apart, and a pound of seed 
will be sufficient for 300 feet of drill. In setting the 
plants in the field, they will need at least three and one- 
half by two feet, while in the greenhouse they should 
have a space of from fifteen to eighteen inches square, 
and if the roots are very strong twenty-four by eighteen 
will be none too much. Nothing will be gained by set- 
ting the plants before Jan. 1, or until they have had a 
period of rest. After the stalks are half grown, liquid 
manure can be applied to advantage once or twice a 
week. If the soil is properly drained, the plants can use 
large quantities, but it should not be used too copiously 
unless the chill has been taken off from the water, other- 
wise the growth might be checked. The Linnaeus is an 
excellent forcing sort, but as with all other larae varie- 
ties, the crop will need to be harvested when about half 
grown, if the plants are placed as thickly as recom- 
mended above. The crown of the plant is quite tender 
and care must be taken, when gathering the stalks, not 
to break it off. 

For spring use, rhubarb may be grown in cold 
frames, the same as asparagus, except that the plants 
should be two or three feet apart each way. 

THE FORCING OF CAULIFLOWERS. 

While cauliflower is, to ;i considerable extent, forced 
in hotbeds for spring use, it has also come into popular 



THE FORCING OF CAULIFLOWERS. 229 

favor as a winter vegetable. • It can be very easily raised 
and there is no reason why, with a good market, it may 
not be a paying crop. 

The seed of the first batch should be sown either in 
a flat or in a bed out of doors, about the first of Septem- 
ber. The seedlings will be of a suitable size to prick 
out into other flats in about three weeks and can be set 
in the beds by the middle of Octob:r. The soil and the 
beds should be about the same as for radishes, except 
that the cauliflower requires a rather more nitroge- 
nous soil. 

They should have about the same temperature as 
lettuce and radishes, and the rules given for the watering 
and ventilating for those crops will answer for the cauli- 
flower. The plants should be set about eighteen or 
twenty inches apart each way, and should be ready to 
market from the 18th to the 30th of January, according 
to the care they receive. Plants for a second crop should 
be sown about the first of November, and after having 
been pricked out and grown in a flat five or six weeks, 
they can be re-transplanted to other flats at four inches, 
or can be placed in four-inch pots to be grown until the 
first crop is out of the way, which sliould be by the early 
part of February. The plants at this time should be 
large and strong and will quickly make their growth, — 
perfecting marketable heads early in A[)riL As with all 
forced crops, the plants should never be checked, but 
should be so handled that they will make a regular 
growth from the time the seed is sown until the crop is 
harvested. If space is available a continuous succession 
of cauliflowers can be obtained for the table or market, 
by making a sowing every two weeks. 

The time allowed for the development of the heads 
does not allow them to reach full size, but when half 
grown they Avill bring nearly as much as if left two 
weeks longer, and it is best to cut them at the size of 



;230 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

from four to six iiicliet^ in diameter, iis it allows the bed 
to be cleared for another crop. There is little differ- 
ence between a good strain of Snowball cauliflower 
and any of the better strains of Early J)w\arf Erfurt that 
are on the market under diii'erent names. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

RADISHES, CARROTS, BEETS AND BEANS. 
FORCING RADISHES. 

One of the first vegetables to be forced was the radish. 
and althongh it has perhaps held its own, there certainly 
has not been any marked increase in the amonnt raised 
for winter. The demand in the spring for liotbed and 
frame radishes has grown to large i)roportions. The 
crop can be easily raised in the winter, and there is no 
reason why the area of glass now devoted to it cannot 
readily be doubled. 

The crop succeeds well on either a well-drained, 
solid bed or a deep, raised bench, filled with from four 
to six inches of rich, light loam ; the greater depth 
should be used for the long-rooted varieties, Avhile the 
bed can be more easily regulated, and as good results can 
be obtained, if the soil is not over four inches deep for the 
turnip-rooted sorts. The seed should be sown in drills, 
varying from five to six inches ai^art, according to the 
variety, as some kinds have small foliage that will 
enable the plants to grow close together, while other 
forcing sorts will need at least six inches. If the seed 
has been tested and known to be good, it could be scat- 
tered in drills half an inch deep, at intervals of three- 
fourths of an inch. It would be better, however, as 



RADISHES, CARKOTS, BEETS AND BEANS. 231 

some of the plant.-: miiy be destroyed, to i)lant the seeds 
somewhat closer, say at intervals of half an inch. The 
seeds should be covei-ed and the soil leveled off and 
l)ressed down. If the soil is moist, as it should be, one 
watering at the time of sowing will be all that is neces- 
sary until germination is completed. 

During their entire growth, radishes need thorough 
ventilation and the air. should be on at least for a short 
time each day, except in the most inclement weather. 
The night temperature should be about 50 degrees, with 
a minimum for best results of 45 degrees, althougli if it 
drops slightly below 40 degrees occasionally little harm 
will be done. With a full amount of air on, it will do 
no harm if on bright days the temperature of the house 
runs uj), with sun heat, to 70 or 75 degrees, but as a 
radish grows best in a cool temperature, nothing over 60 
or 65 degrees should be given, except by sun heat. 
When the second rough leaf begins to form, the plants 
should be thinned out so as to leave a plant every one 
and one-half or two inches in the rows. 

AVhile the plants are small, only a small amount of 
water is used by them and care must be taken not to 
saturate the bed. Syringing will be helpful on bright 
mornings. The first sowing should be made about the 
first of October and to secure a succession should be 
repeated every three weeks. The principal enemy of the 
radish in the forcing house is the green aphis, which can 
be kept in check by fumigating with tobacco twice a 
week. With proper conditions for growth and a clean 
house, they seldom appear. For spring use, the radishes 
should be sown in hotbeds about the 1st and 15th of 
March and in a cold frame on the 15th of April, after 
which they can be grown in the open air. 

The best variety for winter forcing is a good strain 
of \Vhite-Tipi)ed Scarlet Turni]), Cardinal, Globe or Scar- 
let Globe, although the Scarlet Turnip and French 



232 GREENHOUSE 3IANAGEMEKT. 

Breakfast are still much used. Twenty Day Forcing 
and similar kinds are very early, but as a rule the small 
size more than offsets this advantage. Long- Scarlet and 
AVood's Frame are among the best for hotbed and cold 
frame use. 

CARROTS. 

Carrots have not been largely grown in greenhouses, 
as they can readily be carried over winter from the pre- 
vious summer. They should be sown in the same way, 
and require about the same care, as the radish, when 
grown either in the forcing house or hotbed. In the 
latter place and in the frame they are grown to a con- 
siderable extent. The Early French Forcirg is the kind 
commonly used under glass. 

BEETS. 

This also is a profitable ci'op, either for the forcing 
house or hotbed. The best variety is the Eclipse, 
although the Egyptian is much used, as they are quick 
to develop and have small tops. The seed should be 
sown in drills twelve inches apart, and the plants should 
be thinned three or four inches in the rows when they 
have two leaves. A crop of lettuce or radishes can be 
grown between the rows and taken off before the beets 
need the room. 

If given a high temperature, the plants run to tops, 
hence the house should be kept at 45 or 50 degrees, and 
given free ventilation. 

FORCING BEANS. 

While grown extensively for the winter markets of 
London, and Paris, the bean has not come into much 
prominence as a forced crop in this country. It requires 
a temperature of from 65 to 70 degrees for its successful 
growth and to m;iintain tliis requires a largo consuni])- 
tion of fuel, so that the [H'oduct must bring a higli ])rieo 
to be remunerative. In connectioii with tomatoes or 



RADISHES, CARROTS, BEETS AND BEANS. 233 

cucumbers, beans can, however, be grown as a catcli 
crop. They can be grown either in the beds or in pots. 
If in the latter, five or six beans are sown in a seven- or 
eight-inch pot, and are grown without shifting, using 
liquid manure after the roots have matted. If to be 
grown in the bed, they can be sown in drills one foot 
apart and three inches in the row, and should be thinned 
to stand about six by twelve inches, or they can be 
started by sowing three or four beans in a four-inch pot, 
and as soon as the first two leaves have formed and 
before they become pot-bound, transplant to the bed, 
placing them one foot square, first removing all but two 
plants ; in this wa\% the ground can be utilized to the 
best advantage and a succession can be maintained. 

During the growth of the plants, the air should be 
kept rather moist, to keep down the red spider, but 
water should not touch the foliage. When they are in 
flower, in order to set well they should have good venti- 
lation and the air must be kept rather dry. They can 
be aided in the fertilization of the ovules if they are 
hand pollinated. The 8ion House and Osborne Forcing 
are generally used for this purpose, although Golden 
Wax and other early wax sorts are well suited for winter 
forcing. 



CHAPTEE XVIII. 

GRAPE GROWING UlfDER GLASS. 

While the low price at which California grapes can 
he placed on onr markets has rendered the raising of 
grapes in greenhouses, as a commercial venture, decid- 
edly nnprofitahle, the vinerv is likely to remain a part 
of private greenhouse estahlish men ts, and as there is a 
dearth of literature upon the subject, a brief statement 
as to the proper methods to pursue is here appended. 

Writers upon this subject are generally very exact 
in their advice, but while much de])ends upon the char- 
acter of the soil, and the amount of moisture and heat 
furnished in a forcing grapery, this exact treatment is 
not so necessary in a cold grapery. In fact, grapes have 
been grown with success in greenhouses with but little, 
if any, more care than should be given the hardy grapes 
in the open air. It is desirable, however, that a well pre- 
pared bed or border be fui'uished tlu^n, particularly as 
grapes under proper conditions will live for many years. 

THE GHAPE BORDER. 

In choosing a soil for grapes, the heavy clay as well 
as the light, sandy loams sliould not be selected. If 
nothing better can be secured, the former may be used, 
as mixed with sand it will be made friable, but the 
light sandy loams are not lasting enough to be used as 
the base for the vine compost. If turf cm\ be obtained 
from an old pasture, that has a thick fibrous sod and a 
heavy sandy or light clay loam soil, it will be found to 
be well adapted for grape growing. This should be 

234 



GRAPE GROWING UNDER GLASS. 235 

l)n)kcn up, and for every five yards of sod, about one 
yard of lime rubbish, a small quantity of cliarcoal, 
broken bricks and calcined oyster shells, should be 
added. It will also be well to add one hundred pounds 
of broken up bones. If this compost is prejmred in the 
fall and piled up so as to shed rain, it will be in shape to 
use the next spring, although if necessary it may be 
used at once. 

As a rule, if the soil is fairly rich, no manure should 
be applied with the compost, but it can be added as a 
top-dressing whenever needed. In case the best turf 
that can be obtained is thin and growing upon 
exhausted soil, cut it to the depth of two inches and 
mix it with equal parts of rich garden soil and half 
decomposed strawy manure. A Avell drained, deep, 
moderately rich garden soil will give good results with- 
out preparing any special border, if properly top-di-essed. 
As soon as the vines get to bearing, it is well to scrape 
oif the surface soil, if it can be done without destroying 
the roots, and add a comj^ost of equal jjarts of turf and 
stable manure. 

The vine border should be as wide as the roof that 
is to be covered, and may be entirely within the houses, 
or half inside and half outside, with the roots passing 
out through arches in the wall. The border should be 
about two feet deep, but it need not be made to its full 
width at the time of planting. If five or six feet wide, 
it will suffice for the first year, and additions can be 
made until, by the beginning of the fourth year, the full 
width has been reached. 

To ])rovide the necessary fertility for the vines, 
mineral fertilizers are desirable, as they i:)roduce a firm 
and healthy growth that is less likely to be injured by 
unfavorable conditions than the soft, watery growth 
obtained from stable manure. If one peck of wood 
ashes, two pounds of ground bone and one-half pound 



TM) GREEXHOUSE M A X \l^ KMENT. 

dL" iiitrjite ol' 8oda are used to one liumlrcHl sijuaiv feci of 
boidor, it will have an excellent eli'eet. In addition (o 
this application, an inch or so of linely rotted manure 
should be spread over the border, both to furnish food 
and to act as a mulch to i)revcnt evaporation from 
the surface. 

SELECTIXG THE PLAXTS. 

The best plants are grown from ejT cuttings, and 
should be planted when one year old. These will make 
a stronger start than layers from old i)lants, or than 
plants two or three years old. In selecting the varieties, 
the method in AVhich they are to be grown shouKl be 
considered. The tirst choice will always be Black Ham- 
burg, as this is easily grown and thrives in either a hot 
or cold viuery. As a rule, fully half of the vines should 
be of that variety, and for commercial purposes it will 
be as well, at least so far as the yield is concerned, if 
the other half are also of that sort. 

For a cool bouse, 20x20 feet, the following varieties, 
in numbers as indicated by the figures in parentheses, 
could be used : 

Black Hamburg (6), medium. (Fig. 83.) 

Royal Muscadine (2), white, early. 

Buckland Sweetwater (3). white, medium. 

AHcante (1). black, k^te. 

Rose Chasselas (1), red. early. 

White Frontignan (I), white, medium. 

Golden Hamburg (1), greenish yellow, medium. 

Muscat of Alexandria (1), amber, late. 

Lady Downier (1), black, late. 

A hot vinery of the same size could be filled with : 

Black Hamburg (5), black, medium. 
Royal IMuscadine (i), white, early. 
Muscat Hamburg (1), black, medium. 
Syrian (1), white, late. 
Muscat of Alexandria (1), amber, late. 
Lady Downer (1) black, late. 
Rose Chasselas (1), red. e*irly. 
Barbarossa (1), l)lack, late, large. 



rXKE THE FIRST SEASON. 23'7 

Buckland Svvoctwnter (1), wliiio, medium. 
Grizzly Fronti^nan (1), dull red, medium. 
Alicante (1), black, late. 
Golden Hamburg (1), greenish yellow, medium. 

If the plants have been grown in pots, so that the 
roots have matted, the balls should be broken \\\k At 
any rate, the roots should be carefully spread out in an 
excavation about nine inches deep, and covered with fine 
soil, each row of roots being covered sefjarately. If the 
border is all inside the house, the plants should be 
placed about two feet from the wall, unless the heating 
pipes are next to the wall, when a distance of three or 
even four feet will be none too great; if part of the 
])order is outside, they may be planted inside so that the 
roots can run out through the arch, or they may be 
planted outside, and brought in tlirough the opening, at a 
a depth of five or six inclies below the surface of the b(>rd('r. 

About the first of May is a good time to plant the 
vines, although the time might be varied two or three 
weeks either way, depending upon the conditions in 
which the vines have been kept. The proper time to 
])lant is after the buds begin to swell and before they 
burst. The custom is to jdant the vines about three 
feet apart, although some prefer a greater distance. 

CARE THE FIRST SEASOIN^. 

As soon as the vines are planted, they should be cut 
oack to a strong bud within a foot of the ground, and a 
single shoot from this should be trained to the trellis, 
rubbing otf all side shoots that form on the lower half 
of the rafter, but after it has reached a hight of six or 
eight feet it may develop at will. This wil.l enlarge the 
leaf surface and will make the lower portion of the stem 
much stronger than if the vine was only allowed to 
develop at the tip. 

Many growers advise glazing the roof of the gra- 
peries, so as to leave half-inch cracks between the panes, 



238 



GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 



thus providing for ventilation and watering, as a suffi- 
cient amount of fresii air and rain for this purpose can 
enter through the openings. In this way, tlie graj)es 
can be grown with much less care than in tight houses, 
and good results are often obtained in favorable seasons. 
On the otlier hand, if the summer is cold and wet, far 











*^ i*'^ 


^w^f^-im 


^ >''% J 


P 




hi^ mk 





FI«. 82. BLACK HAMHUHi} CRAPES. 

better returns will be received if the house is so arranged 
tlnit the amount of ventilation and water can be regu- 
lated to suit the conditions. 

In a cold grapery, the ventilation should be grad- 
ually increased, as the weather wnrms up, and after the 
middle of June the ventilators can be left wide open at 
night until the first of September, except in cold, wet 



TRAILING AND PRUNTKa THE SECOND SEASON. 239 

weather, when they may he pF>rtly closed. Less ventila- 
tion should he given in a hot vinery, and the house 
should he closed at night and opened during the day, 
when it can be done without droi)ping the temperature 
below seventy degrees. 

TRAINING AND PRUNING THE SECOND SEASON. 

A vine that has been planted out one year and that 
has been trained as directed, should be cut back, a 
montli or so after the leaves have fallen, leavhig a stem 
from four to six feet long, according to the strength of 
the vine (Fig. 83). From this, a strong bud should be 
allowed to develop a leader, to extend the vine up the 
rafter, which should be treated in the same way as the 
leading shoot of the first year. All side buds should be 
rubbed olf as they sta,rt, below the bottom of the rafter. 
If the vines are very strong, a few of the stronger side 
shoots, if grapes set upon them, may be allowed to ripen 
one bunch each. These laterals should be pinched off 
when they reach a length of twelve to fifteen inches. 
The simplest and one of the most satisfactory forms of 
trellis is made of No. 12 galvanized wire, stretched about 
one foot apart and fifteen inches from the glass. 

Another method of training the vines, if they are 
strong, and of obtaining a little fruit the second season, 
is by layering the vine in a ten-inch pot four or five feet 
up the* cane. This shoot may be allowed to set a few 
bunches, and the stem below will make about as good a 
growth as if it had not been layered. After ripening 
the grapes, the layer may be cut off at the lower end of 
the rafter, and may be used for planting out, or as a pot 
plant, while the main stem will be in good shape for 
its third season's growth. 

A third and very good method of pruning the vine 
after being ])lanted out one year, especially if its gTihvth 
has not been strong, is to cut the cane back' to thcv hot- 



240 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




I'RIJNINO AND TRATNTNO THE TlTllll) SEASON. 241 

(ojii of llie ruficr, and Irjiiu IIk; same as ilio iirsi year, 
riil)l)iii<^" out' all shouts iliat break I'or six I'eefc above 
tlie rafter. 

PKUNINO AND TRAINING THE THJKD SEASON. 

The vines should he cut hack at tlie same time as 
tlie previous year, leaving about six I'eet of the nuiin 
cane above the ))ottom of the rafters, or, if the cane was 
allowed to grow as first described, ten feet may be left. 
Tlie buds upon this shoot should break into strong lat- 
erals, upon vvhicli the fruit is borne. Not over two 
buuches should be allowed, even upon the strongest 
shoots, and the latenils should he pinched after one or 
two leaves beyond the last bunch have formed. A lead- 
ing shoot should be trained from the strong bud at the 
up])er end of the main stem, from which all lateral 
shoots should be rubbed. AVhen growth is over in the 
autumn and the leaves have fallen, the vines should })e 
cut back for the fourth season. The laterals should be 
cut back to one bud and the leaves should be cut so as 
to allow about five feet of the stem to extend u\) the 
rafter. This is known as the spur system of ])i-uiiing, 
and after the leader has reached the end of the lafter it 
merely consists in cutting the laterals back to one bud. 

SUMMER PTNciriNrx, disbuddinCt and thinninci. 

As soon as the buds break, all extra shoots should 
be rubbed out, and during the season the vines should 
be frequently examined and all superfluous shoots 
removed. As a rule, if large bunches are desired, only 
one should bo left upon a spur, although two may be 
grown upon strong shoots. Each year, as soon as the 
fruit has set, the shoot should be i)inched off, leaving 
one leaf beyond the last bunch, and if laterals start, they 
should be rubbed off. Not only should the surplus 
shoots and bunches be removed, but if large berries are 
desired the bunches themselves should be thinned out. 
10 



'M:l GREENirorSR MANAGEMENT. . 

When tlie grapes are al)out. tlie size of peas, tlie eenter of 
tlie buiR'hes eaii be cut out with scissors, and when those 
on the outside have set in clusters of three, one or two 
of the berries can also be reniovei]. 

In forming the spurs upon the sides of the main 
shoots, it sometimes is necessary to remove some of the 
shoots that start. As a rule, the laterals should not be 
nearer than twelve or fifteen inches, and sometimes a 
distance even greater than tliis is desirable. The length 
to which the laterals may be allowed to grow before they 
are pinclied in, is determined by the distance at which 
the vines are planted. If placed three feet apart, the 
laterals will interlace at eighteen or twenty inches and 
should be pinclied back at the point of meeting. All 
superliuous bundles, and all tendrils at the same nodes 
with the remaining bunches, should be removed at 
the same time. 

While it is desirable to pinch in some shoots and 
thin out others, to i)revent the vines from becoming too 
thick upon the trellises, on tlie other hand, great harm 
can be done by thinning too much, as the leaves are the 
assimilating organs of the jilaut, and, np to the capacity 
of the plant and the trellis, the greater the amount of 
leaf surface, the greater will be the growth. 

WATERING AND SYRINGING. 

Grapes thrive best in a warm, moist atmosphere, 
which not only tends to keep the i-ed spider in check, 
but promotes the growth of the ])lants. A proper degree 
of moisture should always be maintained in the border 
by watering wlienever it shows signs of being dry, and 
in the air by wetting walks and syringing the plants. 
Syringing is particularly desirable at the time the vines 
are breaking, ami on bright days should be performed 
two or three times, until the slioots have started and the 
flowers are opening, but it should then be discontinued, 



TEMPERATURE AND VENTILATION. 243 

as the polliiuition is more perfect if the air is warm and 
dry. Fertilization is aided by giving the vines a thor- 
ough jarring. The i)ollen is generally shed in greatest 
abundance by the anthers during the forenoon of bright 
days, and its distribution can be assisted by giving thor- 
ough ventilation, which will remove all surplus moisture 
from the air. 

As the bunches develop, the air should be kept 
moist by the free use of water upon the border, etc., but 
syringing the foliage at this time is not to l)e recom- 
mended, particularly with bearing vines. During the 
ripening period the air should again be dry, and water 
should be very s})aringly used. 

TEMPERATURE AND VENTILATION. 

Ventilation is not only for the puri)Ose of regulat- 
ing the temperature of tlie houses during the day, but it 
serves to admit fresh air and also, to some extent, con- 
trols the moisture in the air. The air should be 
admitted on bright mornings as soon as the sun is well 
up, and the amount of ventilation sliould be gradually 
increased as the season advances. In i)leasant weatlier, 
the ventilators may remain open at night, but, although 
grapes have been grown with success in houses where 
the ventilators are opened in the spring and not closed 
until fall, it is better to regulate them according to the 
weather, and in cold, wet spells, such as occur fre- 
quently, the houses will be better off if closed. 

In the hot vinery, although the house should be 
opened to admit fresh air, the amount of ventilation 
desirable is considerably less than in cool graperies. 
When first started, the hot graperies should be given a 
temperature of about 50 degrees at night, with from 65 
to 70 degrees during the day. This should be raised in 
three or four weeks to 60 degrees at night, and it may 
be 75 to 80 degress, or even more, during the day. On 



^W GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

briglifc clays in the s})ring, air may be given for three or 
four hours during the middle of the day, but it is well to 
close up early, in order that the heat from the sun may 
be trapped, and used to warm up the houses for the night. 

FORCING GRAPES. 

This term is now used in reference to several oper- 
ations. In a strict sense, it applies to the starting of 
the yines by the aid of artificial heat, at any time from 
December to February or March, with the object of 
securing fruit in advance of the main crop. Forcing is 
also necessary with varieties that will not ripen without 
artificial heat, which may be used to start them earlier 
than would otherwise be possible, or it may be used to 
ripen them in the fall, or both. Another use of the hot 
vinery is to grow varieties that require a rather higher 
temperature than is afforded by our climate. 

If vines are to be used for early forcing, they must 
be brought into this habit gradually, and by starting 
them one year by the first of March it will be possible 
to start them a fcvV weeks earlier the next year, and by 
continuing this, the time at which they can be started 
will be carried back to January, or even December. It 
will take about five months for the early varieties to be 
brought to maturity in the forcing house. 

Firing may begin about the first of March in the 
hot vinery, for the main crop, and should be regulated 
to give about the same temperature as in the forcing 
grapery proper. At the time the fruit sets, and as it 
ripens, rather more heat will be required, in order that 
ventilation may be given. If the season is cold and wet, 
the fire heat will do much to hasten the growth. 

KEEPING THE FRUIT. 

When thoroughly ripened, the fruit of some vari- 
eties will hang on the vines for a long time. By main- 
taining a temperature of about 45 degrees, and securing 
a dry atmosphere by thorough ventilation, some of the 



CARE OV THE V1:N^ES IN WINTER. 24:0 

thick skinned sorts can be kept nntil March. An easier 
method, however, and one by which the grapes can be 
kept considerably later, is by cutting off the bunches 
with six or eight inches of cane attached, and placing 
the end of the shoot in a bottle of water; the bottles can 
be arranged in racks, in a dry, dark room, where the 
temperature is kept at 40 degrees, and where a close, 
dry atmosphere can be maintained. In this way there 
will be no trouble about keeping them fully a month 
longer than would be possible if kept upon the vines. 

CARE OF THE TINES IN WINTER. 

After the leaves have fallen, the vines should be 
pruned and prepared for winter. In the cold grapery, 
they should be laid down close to the wall, where they 
may be covered with sand or loam, or wrapped in mats. 
During bright days the house should be ventilated. If 
proper care is given to ventilation during the day, the 
hot vinery can be used for growing crops during the 
winter that need 45 degrees as a maximum temperature. 
The vines can be laid close to the wall and shut away 
from the interior of the house, by means of wooden 
shutters. Before they are taken out, if the interior of 
the house is sprayed with a solution of sixty grains of 
corrosive sublimate, or of copper sulphate, to one gallon 
of water, the spores and germs of the various diseases 
of the vine will be destroyed. It is also well to annually 
whitewash all of the brick and stone walls. 

PROPAGATION. 

Having obtained a stock of plants, it is frequently 
desirable to increase them, which can readily be done, 
either from eyes or short cuttings. Strong, well-ripened 
shoots, with large but firm buds, should be selected 
when the vines are pruned, and for eye cuttings (Fig. 
84) make them into ])ieces one and one-half inches long, 
with a bud in the center, and after removing a shaving 



r.ur> 



GREEN llorsH MANAGEMENT. 



of wood from tlic iimlorsi(l(\ ])lac'0 tliom in iljc cuiliiig 
1)0X08. Those should bo Jibout throo iiiohos doop and 
have about two iuohos of rich pottiuu: soil in tbo bottom. 
Upon this i)hK'o tlio cuttino-8, with (ho ovos up, and 
soatlor on sand until tho oyos havo boon oovorod about 
half an inoh. Koop thoni niodoratoly oool nntil Jan- 




FU;. S4. KYK(HTTINH! OK 
UKAPK. 



rui. 85. 



isiioirr ( I TTiKO. OF 

tJKAl'K. 



uarv, ^vhon thov should bo givon bottom boat, in a cool 
])ropaiialini^- houso. Caro should bo givon in watoriui^ not 
to saturalo tho soil: and to losson tho amount of ovapo- 
ratiou il may bo woU tt) oovor the sand with a thin layer 
of sifted s})haonnm as a muloh. 

Tho short cnttin*2:s (Fig. ^^">) are made in much tho 
same way. o\oo}>t that tho stem is out olf just above the 
bud and about an inoh and one-half below it, making a 
cutting about two inches long. After removing a shav- 
ing of wood from (he Iowcm" end, (hey are inserted verti- 
cally in the cutting boxes, wliieh should contain 
three inehes of shar]) sand. As soon as roots have 
formed, (ho cuttings should bo })ottod olf and i)]unged 
in a mild l)()t(oui heat. Hy repotting as needed, j)lants 
can bo grown (o a bight of two and one-half feet by the 
middle of Juno, when, if oarofully ])lanted in (he border, 
they will do oipially as well as yearling i)hints. If not 
needed as pennanont plants, they will be excellent for 
use as pot plants. Layering may also be resorted to. 

rOT PLANTS. 

If well grown, (he plants will be large enough to 
furnish fruit the following year, but, as a rule, they are 
cut back, repotted and grown for tho second year before 
they are allowed to fruit. When at a fruiting size, they 
should be cut back to eight or ton buds and plunged iu 



i'OT r LA NTS. 247 

a luirrow, ]()W lioii.so, ulioiit tlic iirrio the pormanoni vines 
tiro Ktartcd. The vines may bo iiainod to vviro troilisoH, 
or tliroo or four stakos may bo placed in a pot around 
th(; odgoH, and tlio vino arranged in a spiral form iu'oiind 
thorn. 'I'h{,' jjots sliould bo mulohod witli Jiall'-doconi- 
j)OH(;d manure, and after the fruit has set, liquid manure 
should be used freely. Tlio same general ]'ules as to 
j)inehing, watering, ventilating, etc., iipl>ly liore, as 
with vinos j)ermanontly planted. 

If one does not have the means to erect a span roof, 
or oven a lean-to grapery of the usual width, very good 
results can bo obtained against the south side of a wall 
or fence, by erecting a wall about two feet high and 
tlir(;o foot from the back wall, upon which conmion hot- 
bed snsh is j)laced upon end and leaning against tlio 
back wall. If a wooden framework eighteen inches 
wide is built out from the hack wall to receive the sash, 
it will inci-oase the size of the house and provide for 
top ventilation, 

The most troublesome insect in the grapery is the 
red spider, which can be kej)t in check by syringing. 
Jf either of the mildews apjx^ar in a gra])ory, an ap[)li- 
ciilion of the co))pei' sulphate solution, or ammoniated 
copper carhonate, should be used (.Sec Chapter on Insects 
aiul Discjisos), or, if it is the powdery form, evaporated 
sulphur will be found ellectual. 



CHArTER XIX. 

STKAWBEKKY GROWIi^G UNDER GLASS. 

When iirojierly handled, few greenhouse crops will 
afford more interest and pleasure to the amateur, or 
more profit to the commercial grower, than the straw- 
berry when grown as a winter crop under ghiss. The 
requirements are a well-lighted house, in which a tem- 
perature of 65 degrees can be maintained during Feb- 
ruary and March, and where the i)lants can be placed 
near the glass. 

The plants should be obtained from phxntations set 
early in the spring previous, or in July or August of the 
year before and not allowed to fruit, by layering the first 
runners that form in July, in two and one-half or three- 
inch pots that have been plunged near them. Unless 
the soil is a rich, sandy loam, the ])ots should be filled 
with good compost. In about two weeks the pots will 
be occupied by roots, and the phmts should then be 
repotted into four-inch pots and j)laced in a cold frame. 
Here they should be kept during the fall, requiring 
careful attention in watering, and being repotted to five- 
inch and again to six-inch pots, which should be the fruit- 
ing size, as soon as the smaller sizes have become filled with 
roots. If, at any time, leaf l)light or any other fungous 
disease appears upon them, the ])lants should be sprayed 
with Bordeaux mixture. 

In order to foi'co successfully, the ])lants must form 
strong crowns and harden them before winter comes on. 
As freezing weatlier a])i)roaches, the frames sh(mld be 
covered with glass, to i)revent the breaking of the ])ots 

248 



STRAWBERRY GROWIi^G UNDER GLASS. 



249 




250 



GKEEI^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



by frost. Plunging the pots in stind or coal iishes will 
also be desirable on the same account. The plants 
should be kejjt in the frame until about the first of Jan- 
uary, after which short rest they can be brought into 
heat. If a succession is desired, only a 2)art of the 
plants should be started at first and these should be 
placed in a room where a temperature of 4u to 45 degrees 
can be maintained at night, with thorough ventilation 
during the day. All dead and diseased leaves should 
be removed and the plants sprayed with a one to one 




FIG. 87. THE CKOP GATHERED. 

thousand solution (one ounce to eight gallons of water) 
of copper sulphate, to destroy all spores of fungi. 
Other lots should be brought in at intervals of two to 
four weeks. 

In five or six weeks after growth starts, the plants 
will blossom and they should then be transferred to a 
warmer room, or the temperature must be raised to 
65 or 70 degrees at night. The pollen will be shed most 
freely in a warm, dry room and these conditions must 



STRAWBERRY GROWING UNDER GLASS. 



251 



be secured in order to have the flowers ])roperiy ferti- 
lized. Tiie pollen will, however, need to be trtmsl'erred 
b}' liund from the stamens to the pistils, and it can be 
done best by means of a small caniei's-hair brush, at the 
same time carrying along any siirpkis i)ollen that may 
be found, on a small spoon or wooden paddle. Care 
must be taken that pollen is conveyed to every jHstil, or 
the fruits will be irregular in form. The pollinating 
should be repeated every pleasant morning. As soon as 




FIG. 88. FRUITIXr; STRAWP.KKRY PLANTS, CCKNELL 
EXPERIMENT STATION. 

the fruit has set, the application of liquid manure should 
commence, and should be repeated two or three times a 
week until the fruits begin to color. 

If moi'e than eight or ten fruits set upon a plant, 
the smaller and imperfect ones should be removed. The 
plants should never be allowed to suffer for want of 
water, and occasionally on warm, bright mornings the 
foliage should be syringed, but this is not advisable 
while the plants are in blossom, or after the fruit begins 



252 GREENnOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

to color. Ill oi'dor lo koop llii^' IViiil from flic (liii>i|) Huil, 
where it will Ix^ likt'ly to rot, .some sii|)|).>ii iiiiisl \)v pro- 
vided. Mr. IIiiiiii, of I he ('Onu'II Experiment Siatioii, 
wlio liiis been (|uite sueeessfnl in I'oreini;" stra.\v])erries, is 
well j)lea8ed with cork chi23S, and with fine netting 
l)hiced npon the pots, as seen in Fii^-. 8(3. Jn ahont a 
month from the time the frnit sets, the berries will be- 
gin to ripen, and in ten days to two weeks the jdants 
may be tiirown out and rei)la('('d with others, wdiicb will 
need the same care, cxce[>l that less attention need be 
paid to pollinating" the flowers. The red spider and aphis 
may be troublesome, unless ])i()})er remedies are used. 

The variety selected will have much to do with the 
results secui'cd. For the best success, it should be an 
early sort, with rather short j)etioles and small leaves, 
that is little subject to disease. Unless other perfect 
flowering plants are grown to provide pollen for them, 
])istillate sorts should not be selected, although other- 
wise many of tiie im})erfect-flowered varieties arc well 
a,da])ted for forcing. The J5ed(>r Wood, a perfect-flow- 
ered variety, is one of the best, its |)rinci})al fault, being 
the light color of the fi-uir. Among tlu^ later sorts 
Sliarpless and ]*ark(M' Kark^ are well adapted for forcing. 
Although the results will be less satisfactory, fruit may 
be obtained four or five weeks earlier, by sliortening the 
period of rest. 

in a good market, well-grown fruit (Fig. 87) will 
bring from two to four dollars ])er quart in February, 
and not over a dozen plants, which in six-inch pots will 
not occupy more than three or four square feet, will be 
reciuired to furnish them, and they will not occupy the 
houses more than ten or twelve weeks. There is also a 
call for the plants, while in fruit, at prices that will be 
(piite remunerative. A well-grown plant with a crop of 
fine fruit, as seen in Fig. 88, is a handsome ornament 
for a table. 



CHAPTER XX. 

FRUIT TREES UI^DER GLASS. 

In many sections of the country the climate is not 
adapted to the growing of such fruits as the peach, apri- 
cot and nectarine in the open air, and although these 
fruits can generally be obtained in the market in their 
season, as a rule the varieties are not of the best quality 
from the fact that the most desirable varieties, so far as 
quality is concerned, are generally lacking in hardiness 
and are consequently unproductive when grown in the 
open air. On this account there seems to be a growing 
interest in orchard houses and in the forcing of fruit 
under glass. 

While a cheap lean-to house built against a wall 
will give good results, the form best adapted to the pur- 
pose is the even-span. If the expense can be afforded, 
the curvilinear roof is desirable, as it gives more room 
for the growth of the trees. While good results can be 
obtained without fire heat, it will be necessary if the 
fruit is to be forced, and may save a crop if the weather 
is cold or wet at the time the trees are in blossom, or 
while the fruit is setting, as a check at that time may 
prevent the setting of the fruit. Ample ventilation 
should be provided at the ridge and will be desirable in 
the side walls, that a good circulation of air may be 
procured. 

The trees may be grown either in pots or tubs, or 
planted out in borders in the house. The former is 
desirable from the fact that the trees being portable can 
be placed close together during the winter, and the con- 



254 



GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMENT. 



ditioiis ciiu be controlled better, l)ut on iJie oilier hand 
there is tlie disiidviinta<?e of re(|iiiring much more fre- 

(juent attention 
regai'ding the wa- 
tering of the 
tree s, particnlarly 
during the summer 
months. 

For the pear, 
a (|uince stock is 
desirable, and the 
Maiialeb is prefer- 
red for the cherry, 
but peach seedlings 
can be used as 
stocks for the 
peach, nectarine 
and a})ricot, al- 
though the myrob- 
olan plum stock 
can be nsed for 
them as well as for 
the plnm. 

For pot cul- 
ture, trees of pear, 
plum or cherry will 
require from ten-to 
fourteen-inch pots 
when three or four 
years old, and as 
they increase in 
size can be shifted 
to tubs. The peach 
and nectarine trees 
The soil for the 
plum and pear trees should have a liberal admixture of 




fk;. W). 



I'KAU LOUISE HONNK (JKOW.N !>' 
A POT. 



will re(iuire somewhat larger sizes 



FKUIT TREKS UN I) Mil GLASS. 



^55 



cliiy, while IJio clierry aiid pcjicli I rccs will do host in a 
sjiiidy loMiii s.)il. When lirsl, policd, nboiit oiu^ pjirt of 
(U'coMiposcd lua-niii'c^ to livo parts of soil will he siillicient, 
hut for ropotXini;' and top-drossin^' the a.iuoiiid of inaiiiiro 
can he douhled. It will also he well to add for each 
hiishel of soil a, 
four-inch iK)t each 
of ground hoiH^ 
and wood ashes. 
'IMie repotting 
s ho u 1 d he done 
after the growth 
has ripened in the 
fall, hut if the roots 
have not hecionic 
niat-teil it. will not 
he necessary each 
year, as it will often 
sultice if the sur- 
face soil is I'einovc^ 
and a top-dressing 
added. 

When thelmds 
hegin to swc^ll in 
the s})ri ng, the trees 
should he syringed 
on hright nioiai- 
ings, hut they 
should he kept 
rather close and 

dry while they are fig. 9o. KAKLYTKA>fspAi:KNTGA«K FKinT- 
m h I OS so m, and 

particnlar care shonld he taken that they are not 
checked in their gvo^vth from a,ny cause nntil after tlie 
fruit has hegun to swell. After this time the trees 
should he syringed in the morning and again in the aJ'ter- 




/^-)() GKKHNirorSK MANAOKMKXT. 

noon of bright (lays. AfUT Iho seeds begin to fonii it 
will be well to eiilier lop-di'ess iUv. ])hints witli horse ur 
sheej) manure or to ci|)])ly liijuid manure. 

11' the ei'op set is a hirge one, the surj)his fruits 
sliould be removed. The distance at wliieh tliey shouhl 
be k'ft will de])end both on tlie growth of the plant and 
the number of fruits ui)on it, but except for llu; cherry 
and plum they sliould not he less than six inches apart:, 
and if well distributed a single fruit upon a shoot or 
spur will be am])le. 

Aftei- the cj-oj) has been gathered and the end of the 
growing season apj)roaches, water should be gradually 
withheld and all the ventilation ])ossible should be given. 
This will aid the trees in ri])ening their growths and in 
securing firm fruit buds that will be less likely to be 
affected by changes of temperature during the winter, 
than when they are loose and open. If in })ots it is often 
well to ])lace the trees outside for a few Aveeks in the 
fall, but they should be returned to the houses before 
severe freezing weather comes. During the winter they 
may be packed closely together and t he si)ace that they 
occupied in the summer can tiien be used for some other 
cro])s. During the winter the trees should be ])runed. 
This Avill consist in cutting the new growth back about 
three-fourths and the thinning out of sur])lus shoots. In 
the case of the })each and nectarine, especially, this should 
be thoroughly done. After they have been i)runed, it 
will be well to spray the trees thoroughly with a strong 
solution of copper sulphate, and just before the buds 
start Bordeaux mixture can be used to advantage. For 
aphides and other insects that may appear, the usual 
renuMlies should he used. 

AVhile the labor of watering can be lessened by 
plunging the pots to their rim, during the summer, in a 
light litter of sonu^ kind, care must be taken that the 
roots are kept in the])ots, and it will be desirable to have 



KiMirr 'IKI'KS I NDIlIt (II.ASS. :t^}'\ 

lliciii rcsl/ iijtoii ii, couple of l)ii(',ks or soiiio siiiiihir sup- 
ports. W liilc I, he jx'Mr, clicrry ,*in(l plum ciiii Ik; i;i'ovvii 
best ill j>ots, the jK'iich and iK'(;t;i,i'iiie should either he 
phieed in iiii-^c boxes, or ])lanled out in a borih'i". This 
.shoukl be prepared lo the (h'j)th of two feet and its sur- 
face will noe(l (o \h\ i-o])-dr(;sse(l once or twice cjich year. 
If in lean-lo, or three-cpiarter s])an, liouses IIk; trees may 
he trained upon I luMiorth Avnll, or on trellises just beiieatl) 
tiie glass if even-span, hut as a ruh' tlu' j)yr:nni<hil foj-m of 
ti-ee Avill l)e pi-efeiMble. 

Dui-ing i\\(\ siinnner, jifler nil d;inii;('r of frost is over, 
no atlendon lu'cd l)e p;iid l(> venlilatini;- the houses, the 
full air being Icd't on, ('\('e[)t when cold, chilly winds ])re- 
vail. In th(! wiid,ei-, aftiir the trees have I'ipened, tlie 
sasli sliould ])e handled witli the id(^a of protecting tlie 
trees from extremes of temperature, ventilation being 
desiral)le on wjii'm or bi'ight days lo pi-ev(!nt ilu^ swelling 
of the buds. 

In selecting varieties of ])each for I'oi'cing, only 
those of high (piality should be taken. Early Kivers, 
George IV, Mountain ivose, (jrosse JVIignonne, Old- 
mixon, Early and Jiiilc ('rMwfoi-d, Eoster and Elberta. 
being among the best soi'ls for tlu; pur|)ose. Any of tlie 
better variel ies of apricots and nectarines can be used, 
and any of the pears that succeed on dwiii-f stocks, such 
as Souvenir du (^ongres, Ijouis(» lionne (Eig. ^^0' 
Angoul(!me and Anjou, will give satisfaction. Among 
the 1)1 ums the (dioi.'c should be made from among I he 
Gage (Kig. IH)) varieties and such other sorts as Dia- 
mond, V'/Aiv, ('Oe's Golden Drop, (iiand Duke and 
Monarch. 



17 



CHAPTER XXI. 

MAN'AGEMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS. 

If one does not liave even tlie simple form of 
veranda conservatory described in Greenhouse Construc- 
tion, fairly good success can be obtained with a few house 
plants, with either a southern or western exposure. For 
most flowering i)lants the windows opening to the south 
are preferable, even to those with a western outlook, as, 
during the sliort days of Avinter, the phants in the latter 
will have but little sun, and tlien it Avill be too low down 
near the horizon. For a few plants, the windows look- 
ing to tlic east nniy 1)0 used, and for ferns and similar 
shade-loving sorts they are desirable. While the north 
windows may be used for some of that class of plants, it 
is not a desirable exposure. 

In case a bay-window upon the south side of the 
living room can be obtained for flowers (Fig. 91), very 
good results can be secured. It should be sei)arated f rom 
the room by glass doors, that can be thrown open or 
closed, at pleasure, but in case they are not to be had, 
much of the labor of keeping the plants in good con- 
dition can be saved if curtains are provided, to be used 
when sweeping. In addition to hooks for hanging bas- 
kets and bracket stands for pot plants, it will be well to 
have a shelf, from one to two feet in width, according to 
dimension of the window, upon which to arrange the 
smaller plants. This should have side juGces one to two 
inches high, and a zinc lining. The bottom could then 
be covered with coarse gravel or fine pebbles, and a much 
better growth could be secured, as the plants in small 



MAi«"AGEMENT OK llolSK I'LANTS. 2^.) 

|)()ls would I licii 1)0 lesslikdy io dry (>u(. A simple jMop- 
{igatin*; bed cini be very ejisily jirnuv,ii;e(l by supplying 
the iiccesHiiry clejui s;mi(1, and abini[) to furnish bottom 
heat, unless lu'nting [jijx's run along under the shelf, 
when they would only need (o be boxed in. In ease the 
lamp is used, it will be necessary to provide some sort of 
a shield lo })revent it from selling fire lo the wooden 
shelf. A shallow galvaniz<:Hl iron i)an lilled wilh i)laster, 
sus])ended above the hi nip and close to the l)ottoni of the 
shelf, will answer the purpose. 

If an ordinary window is to b(> us(m1, it will be well 
to liave a similar shelf, at Ihe hight of flu^ window sill. 
If nuide two or three feet longer (ban the window is 
wide, it will hold a considerable number of i)l;inls. For 
the bay window and tlie common wiiulow as well, if the 
size of the room admits of it, a })lant stand with slu^lves 
in the form of stairs, or with a ilat toj), ciin be used to 
good !i<l vantage to disphiy the larger ])l;ints. 

By having it arranged with casters, if the planl,s 
that HMpiiie a high temperature are kei)t upon it, on 
cold nights it will be an easy matter to roll it back away 
from the window and thus sjive the tender plants from 
becoming chilled. 

SOIL Foil AND CARE OF IIOUSK PLANTS. 

In a general way, the directions given for green- 
house })lants will apply to ihose grown in the dwellijig. 
In the village or city, where it is dillieultto obtain a suit- 
able comi)ost, the admixture of street sweepings with 
fresh garden loam will answer very well, although, if 
otdy a small amount is needed, it will be better to obtain 
some pre|)iired eom))ost from a florist. TTnless new |)ots 
are used, ihey should be well sojiked and sei-ubbed, to 
remove the mold llnil usunlly forms on Ihem, jind llius 
open Ihe por<'S. A failure often I'esulls from using (oo 
large pots, as a snuill pl;inl growing in a. kirge <puinlily 



260 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




POTTING AND RP]POTTIKG. 261 

of soil will not remove much of the water by trans- 
piration, so that, unless great eare is taken in watering, 
the soil will remain saturated most of the time and, the 
air being thus kept out, will become sour, and as a result 
only a weak, unhealthy growth cjin be secured. When a 
plant is found to be in this condition, it should be taken 
out, as much of the soil shaken off as is possible without 
seriously injuring the roots, and repotted in rich sandy 
com})Ost, using a pot as small as will take in the roots 
without cramping them. 

For the starting of cuttings, the saucer system, or 
the use of water alone, will generally be found better 
than the sand cutting-pan, as, if the latter is used, many 
2)lants will fail to root readily unless bottom heat is used. 

POTTING AND REPOTTING. 

While the florist uses pots not over two inches in 
diameter for his cuttings and his seedlings, a slightly 
larger size will be preferable for house plants, unless they 
are grown in a conservatory, as they will be less likely to 
be injured from drying out. 

In potting off seedlings, or rooted cuttings, the pot 
is loosely filled with sifted soil, and a hole made in the 
center with the finger, in which the young plant is 
placed. The soil should then be pressed flrmly into 
place and thoroughly watered. As soon as the roots 
begin to form a, mat around the sides of the pot, they 
should be transferred to larger ones, using rich but light 
soil, in which a liberal amount of ground bone will be of 
value. To remove the plants from the pots, invert them 
in the palm of the hand, so that the stems of the plant 
will be between the second and third fingers, the pot 
being held by the thumb and fore-finger of the same 
hand. ^Vhe edge of the pot can then be tlium])ed against 
the table, and the [tlant will slip out. It is always well 
before repotting to remove from one-fourth to one-half 



262 GEEEKHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

inch of the surface soil, thus disposing" of any weeds or 
slime that may be upon it. Then j)hice from one-half 
inch to one inch of compost in the bottom of a pot, put 
in the plant, being careful to luivc it in the center, and 
add enough soil to fill the space between the pot and the 
ball of earth and furnish a slight covering over the sur- 
face. When all is completed the level of the soil should 
be from one-half inch to one inch below the edge of the 
pots. For sizes of ])ots i\\) to four inches, a space of one- 
half inch will answer to hold the necessary water and 
secure the proper moistening of the soil, but above that 
one inch is preferable. Notice should be taken that the 
liole in the bottom of the pot is not clogged. This will 
provide the necessary drainage, in })ots four inches in 
diameter or less, but for the lai'ger sizes from one to two 
inches of pieces of broken pots should be i)laced in the 
bottom, and covered with a little sphagnum, or excelsior, 
to keep the soil from washing down and filling the 
spaces. Bits of charcoal or excelsior can be used instead 
of crocks. When large plants are repotted, a small ram- 
mer sliould be used to pack the soil well around the ball. 

TOP-DRESSTNG. 

In some cases, a plant does not make a satisfactory 
growth, from lack of sufficient plant food. If the pot 
is of the proper size and the roots have not become pot- 
bound, it will not be desirable to repot it, as that would 
give a needless check to the plant. Good results, can 
generally be obtained if the surface soil is scraped away, 
down to the roots, and rei)laced with very rich soil con- 
taining 2b per cent of ground bone. 

WATER AND LIQUID MANURE. 

The rules given for fiorists will ai)ply well here, but 
the home florist will need to take special ])ains to avoid 
both excessive and too little watering. When the 



MANAGEMENT OF HOUtSE PLANTS. 263 

plants have 2)roper drainage, we should apply water until 
it runs through the pots and then wait until we can see, 
from the looks, feel or ring of the pot, that the supply 
has been exhausted and more water is needed. 

As a rule, if the watering has not been too long 
delayed, when a space of one inch has been provided for 
the purpose, filling the pots to the brim will suffice. Too 
frequent watering is often a cause of faihire with house 
plants, as the addition of a little water, at short inter- 
vals, wets the surface soil, and, keeping the air out, 
causes it to become sour, while it does not penetrate to 
the roots, where only it is of use to the plants. The 
chill should at least be taken off from the water, and if 
it is wanned to 90 or 100 degrees, all the better. 

Liquid fertilizer made from stable manure will not 
be desirable in the house, but the soluble mineral fer- 
tilizers can be used, or ammonia water at the rate of a 
teaspoonful to a gallon of water used once a week will 
promote the growth and give a good color to the 
foliage. 

INSECTS AND DISEASES. 

While house plants are troubled with about the same 
pests as those of the greenhouse, as the conditions are 
even more unnatural, some of them are still more 
troublesome. As a rule, the air in a dwelling is dry and 
tlie conditions are particularly inviting to the red 
spider. To lessen the dryness, provision should be made 
in some way for the evaporation of water in the room and 
for the syringing of the foliage upon bright days. Some 
of the small hand sprinklers should at any rate be used. 
The thick-leaved plants will be benefited if they are 
occasionally sponged off with water containing whale-oil 
soap. 

The same remedios as in the greenhouse will be 
efficacious here, but some of them, as tobacco smoke, can- 



'Z64: GKEEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

not be used in the dwelling. Tobacco tea can, however, 
be employed for the green fly, either by spraying it over 
the plants or by dipping the stems into it. Pyre thrum, 
both as a powder and in water, and kerosene emulsion 
will be found invaluable remedies. 

In addition to syringing and washing the foliage, 
much can be done to keep the plants healthy, if a little 
ventilation can be given on pleasant days. While plants 
do not like drafts of cold air, they are benefited if afresh 
supply is frequently provided. 

From the fact that the air in the living rooms is 
likely to be dry, the kitchen, with an athiosphere, during 
most of the day, charged with moisture, will be found 
best suited to plants, particularly while they are small. 
The fact that there is more direct and more frequent 
communication with tlie outer air from the kitchen than 
from the principal living rooms, thus affording ventila- 
tion and the access of fresji air, is another reason why 
plants grown in the kitchen of the cottage generally thrive 
better than in a bay window of the mansion. 

One of the things that is sure to injure plants is coal 
gas, and whenever coal is used as fuel, whether in a fur- 
nace or stove, every precaution should be taken that it 
does not escape into the rooms and thus injure the 
plants, as well as the human occupants. 

THE TEMPERATURE FOR HOUSE PLANTS. 

The temperature which plants require in the dwell- 
ing is of course about the same as has been given for the 
greenhouse, but tlie growth, as a rule, is less soft and 
watery than in those grown in glass houses and they will 
generally be uninjured if the temperature drops a few 
degrees lower than the point where injury would ensue 
in the greenhouse. On cold nights, when there is liabil- 
ity that the tem})erature will fall l)elow the danger point, it 
is well to spread newspapers in the window and draw the 



MANAGEME]!^T OF HOUSE PLANTS. 265 

shtides so as to prevent as much as possible the loss of 
heat. The plants themselves should be covered with 
papers, or, if possible, should be removed from close 
proximity to the windows. If placed in the center of 
the room, preferably upon tables, or at least raised well 
above the floor, they will often escape injury, while sim- 
ilar plants remaining in the window would be frosted 
2ind perhaps killed by cold. 

As a rule, plants do best at a temperature ten or 
fifteen degrees colder than they need during the day, and 
most of the species commonly used as house plants do 
not need over 50 or 55 degrees at night and will not 
suffer if the temperature falls as low as 40 degrees, 
although if such a low temperature be continued for sev- 
eral days it will check tlie growth of most plants. In 
case plants have been frozen they should be slowly 
thawed out. While it will perhaps be impossible to save 
the foliage of tender tropical plants, tlie plants them- 
selves, as well as the foliage of the hardier ones, can often 
be saved. They should be removed from the direct rays 
of the sun and kept at a temperature of 35 to 40 degrees 
until they have tliawed, when it may he gradually raised. 
Cold water can also be used to advantage in thawing 
them out, but the temperature should be kept as low as 
35 degrees so long as frost remains in the plant. Water 
used at 50 to 60 degrees will generally do more harm 
than to allow the plants to thaw out of themselves. 

THE SELECTION" OF PLANTS. 

When plants are purchased from a florist, pains 
should be taken that they are in a suitable condition to 
give good results in the house. As a rule, it will be by 
far best to take young and vigorous plaiits, that have 
been in no way stuntod in their growth, but by all means 
we should avoid using those grown at a high tempera- 
ture and in a close atmosphere, as they will almost inva- 



2GG GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

riably be weak and spindling, and when removed to the 
dryer air of the dwelling they will be snre to disap- 
point one. 

We should also avoid those that have been forced by 
the florist for the production of flowers, as they have 
been grown undei- unnatural conditions, and even thougli 
they have been given a period of rest, they are not likely 
to be satisfactory. 

Much can be told regarding the fitness of a plant 
for growing in the house, by its structure and general 
appearance, and, as a rule, plants with thick leaves and 
a small glossy surface are but little affected by a dry 
tem])erature and can be readily washed, while })lants 
with small thin leaves quickly dry \i\) if neglected in any 
degree, and i)articularly if they have a rough hairy sur- 
face they hold the dust and cannot be readily washed. 

Deciduous plants, particularly those that drop their 
leaves during the winter, should not be selected, as they 
will show only bare stems at the very time they should 
be in the best condition. AVliile all plants should have 
a period of rest at some time during the year, there are 
long lists to select from that rest during the summer, and 
these should always be chosen. 

Unless one is so situated that a minimum tempera- 
ture of 60 degrees can be secured, the use of the troi)ical 
plants that need (55 to 70 degrees is not advisable, as a 
single cold night may greatly injure them. The selec- 
tion should also be governed by the outlook, as influenc- 
ing the amount of sunlight that can be given them. 
In partial shade, such plants as ferns, i)rimroses, ivies, 
madeira vines, callas, bulbs, palms, begonias, Ficus 
repens and F. clastica, mahernia, achyranthes and sim- 
ilar plants can be grown with fair success, if conditions 
are favorable. Most of the other winter flowering i)lants 
do best if given southerly ex})osure, whei-e they can have 
full sunlight. 



MANAGEMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS. 267 

PLANTS FOR GROWING IN THE HOUSE. 

The choice of i)lants will depend somewhat upon 
the surroundings and the conditions under which they 
are to be grown, as kinds tliat would succeed well in a 
l)arlor conservatory, or that would be appropriate for the 
decoration of a drawing room, would not be desirable 
and might be out of place in the kitchen or sitting-room 
window of a cottage. 

For the small window, and in a bay window con- 
servatory, snch well known plants as begonias, flower- 
ing and foliage ; abutilons, white, red and yellow ; cal- 
las ; cyclamen ; fuchsias ; geraniums, zonal, scented 
and ivy ; heliotrope, lantanas and oleanders, can 
always be used to advantage. In addition, we can add, 
for fall and early winter flowering, a sufficient number 
of chrysanthemums to afford a variety of colors, and in 
the spring the Chinese primrose, cinerarias and calceo- 
larias, with their bright flowers, are always attractive. 
The azaleas do not thrive well during the winter in a 
dwelling, but when in bloom in the spring will be very 
ornamental if they can be added. Eupatoriums, ste- 
vias and ageratums are also excellent house plants. 

Of the flowering bulbs, the hyacinth, tulip, cro- 
cus, narcissus, scilla, and lily of the valley, are most 
commonly grown and with but little attention add much 
to the effect. For house use, the hyacinth may be 
grown in water in hyacinth glasses. The oxalis, in 
some of its varieties, such as Bowiei, cernua lutea, or ver- 
sicolor, is an excellent pot plant, while for basket pur- 
poses it has few equals. 

The lilies are also very desirable for spring and sum- 
mer blooming. Lilium candidum and Z. Har7'isii 
flower in March and April, or with Lilium elegans, L. 
auratum and L. speciosum album and ruhrum, can be 
brought into flower during the summer months. 

In addition to the above list, there are many flowers 



208 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

tliiit are readily grown from seeds, such as carnations, 
aiyssiun, candytuft, mignonette, nasturtiums, stocks, 
matricaria (feverfew), besides others used as bedding 
plants, as verbenas, petunias, pansies, pyrethrum, cen- 
taurea and dianthus, that are also often used as house 
plants. 

While carnations, violets and roses are of value 
for furnishing cut flowers, they can seldom receive 
proper care in a dwelling and are seldom desirable as 
house plants, unless one has at least a small window 
conservatory in which proper conditions can be given 
them. 

As plants for the decoration of a parlor, or to com- 
bine with others in a large window, the following are desir- 
al)le, as they can be grown successfully with but little 
care : Palms, pandanus, aspidistras, rubber trees, 
Cyperus alternifolius, anthericum, dracsenas and cor- 
dylines, araucarias and marantas, besides, in partial 
shade, ferns, lycopods, gloxinias, tuberous begonias, 
fancy leaved caladiums, and many others. As house 
plants among the palms, we may note as among the 
most valuable, Howea (Kentia) Belmoreana, and H. 
Fosteriana, Areca lutescens, Bliapis huinilis and R. 
flahelUformis, Livistona Cliinensis [Latania Borbonica), 
Ptycliosperma Cunninghamiana {Seaforthia elegans), 
Cocos Weddeliana, Livistona i^Coryplid) AustraliSy and 
many others. 

As plants for climbing or trailing, Ave may mention 
the ivies, English {Hedera helix), German, Senecio 
ynihanioides, cape S. macroglossns and Kenilworth or 
coliseum [Linaria Cymhalaria), Vinca minor, var. 
madeira vine, moneywort {Lysimachia nummularia), 
Maliernia odorata, Otlionna crassifolia, lobelias, musk 
plant [Mimulus moschatns), Lygodiu7n scandens, wax 
plant (Hoy a cajmosa), Cohcea scandens, canary bird- 
flower [Tro2)ceolnm peregrinnm), smilax (MyrsipJiyUnni 



MANAGEMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS. 269 

asparagoides), maiirandya, Manet tia hicolor and M. 
coidifolia and cy])ress vino [Jpoinwa Qu(/mor/i/). Fur 
training* upon the walls or about the windows, nearly 
any of the climbers should be used, while the drooping 
vines are invaluable for use in hanging baskets and 
vases. 

WINDOW BOXES. 

Excellent results can often be obtained from boxes 
upon the window sills (Fig. 92). If made of the length 
of the sill, and as wide as will rest securely, with a depth 
of five or six inches, and with a lining of zinc, they can 
be filled with almost any of the small or medium sized 
plants, and with some of the more ornamental of the 
trailing vines they will present a very handsome 
appearance. 

At the ends of the boxes, some of the stronger grow- 
ing vines should be placed, and they will soon reach a size 
that will allow of their being trained about the window, 
as in this way a much better growth can be obtained 
than would be secured in small pots. The exterior of 
these boxes can be painted, or covered with oilcloth. 
In the summer time, these or similar boxes may be 
placed outside upon the window sill, and with a little 
care in watering will be very attractive. Equally good, 
if not better, results can be obtained from the use of 
rather larger boxes upon a veranda. 

When designed for the decoration of the parlor or 
drawing room, the larger plants may be placed in jar- 
dinieres or in large ornamental flower pots. Some of 
the more simple forms of plane stands will be found very 
convenient and quite attractive, while for the decoration of 
the bay window, wire or earthen hanging baskets and 
plants upon brackets will serve to increase the apparent 
extent of the arrangement. 



270 



GREEXHOL'SE MAJSTAGE^MENT. 




MANAGKMEXT OF IIOI'SK PLANTS. 2^1 I 

HANGING BASKETS. 

There Jire few \v;iys oi' iimiiigiii*^ l)l}iiits that ^^ive 
better satisfuetion lluiii in hanging haskeis. If those 
made of wire are used, they should l)e lined with green 
moss, or sphagnum, from the swamp, and filled with a 
light, hut rich soil. The glazed earthen pots are not 
porous, and the soil soon becomes sour, if the watering 
is not done very carefully ; although less ornamental, 
the unglazed pots will be likely to give a better growth 
of plants. To hold the water, and prevent the baking 
of the surface, a thin layer of moss or sphagnum should 
be placed over it. From the fact that they are exposed 
at all times to dr}-ing influences, they need a copious 
supply of water. In case they dry out at any time, it 
will be well to dip them in a tub of water, as dry sphag- 
num takes tip water very slowly. For the center of 
the basket, it is best to take some graceful, drooping 
plants, such as dracaenas or cordylines, caladmms, 
begonias, ferns, small palms, pandanus, geraniums, and 
particularly ivy geraniums. Around these, if the bas- 
ket is a large one, small upright or droojung plants, such 
as alyssums, lol)clias, verbenas, anthericums, coleus, 
achyranthes, saxifrage, mikanias, mahernia, othonna, 
Isolepis gracilis f mimulus, nierem^ergia, mesembryan- 
tliemums, and other small plants may be used. In 
adtlilion to the trailing plants mentioned, such others 
as Kenil worth (coliseum) ivy, rnoneywort and trades- 
cantia, of various kinds. Tropgeolums and variegated 
vincas will be desirable for hanging over the edge of the 
basket, while the German ivy, madeira vine, cypress 
vine, English ivy, and other climbers may be trained up 
the wires or chains, and festooned to some of the sur- 
rounding objects. While wire baskets or those made of 
earthenware, especially for this purpose, are best 
adapted, there is often about the house a variety of cast- 
off utensils that can be used as hauffinof baskets. 



272 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

AQUAUHMS. 

As an adjunct to the otiior lioriil decomtioiis of the 
living room, these extremely interesting ornaments 
should not be overlooked. They eaii he stocked with 
foliage and flowering plants, fish, snails, and other ani- 
mals, and with very little attention will be found 
extremely attractive. 

The aquarium itself should be of some simple, yet 
tasteful design, and its beauty will be enhanced if its 
sides are of glass ; while the framework may be of wood, 
it is preferably made of iron, with a slate bottom. In 
tilling it, clean fine sand should be placed in the bottom 
and covered with a layer of gravel, over which ornamen- 
tal shells, stones, etc., should be strewn. In the 
center, arches should be constructed of slag, or coral 
rocks. Of plants, for purifying the water, the Sagittaria 
n((i(()is and Anacharis Canadensis are highly esteemed, 
although eel grass and parrot feather {Myrsiophylhim 
asparagoidcs) arc valuable. The stems of these can be 
imbedded in the sand, and they will readily take root. 
Other plants in pots, such as callas and cyperus, can 
also be used in large aquariums. 

In additiini to small minnows, gold fish, stickle- 
backs and other fish, various kinds of snails, and if 
desired, lizards, frogs, etc., can be added. As soon 
as the plants have been arranged, the a([uai-ium should 
be supplied nearly full of pure fresh water, and the animals 
added. In locating an a(piarium, while it is desirable 
that it be where it can have sun for a short time each 
day, very much of the direct sunlight should be avoided, 
as it is injurious to the fish, as the water will soon fill 
with a green scum. 

Aquariums need but very little care, as, if the glass 
is wiped off every week or two, using a swab at the end 
of a stick, and the contents taken out and the tank thor- 



AQUA.RIUMS. 273 

oiiglily cleaned once a year, little other attention need 
\)c given tlieni. 

The fi.sli should be fed regularly once a day ; while 
bread crumbs and similar food will answer, they will 
thrive best if fed upon earth worms, flies, or bits of raw 
meat. Care should be taken that no more is supplied 
than will readily be eaten by the fish, or other animals 
in the tanks. With the above attention, in a room at a 
temperature of from 60 to 70 degrees, there will be little 
trouble in keeping both animals and plants in a healthy 
condition, and much pleasure can be derived from them. 

WARDIA]!^^ CASES. 

When one desires to grow exotic ferns, and the more 
delicate plants, in the living rooms, some means must be 
employed to preserve an abundant, even supply of 
moisture, and to keep the dust from them. One of the 
simplest devices is known as a Wardian case. This con- 
sists of a shallow box, of any desired size, say 3 by 18 by 36 
inches, lined with sheet lead or zinc, and covered either 
with a glass shade or a glass box of the same length and 
breadth as the base, and with a bight of perhaps eighteen 
inches. The framework for the glass can be of any 
light wood, fastened securely together. The cover itself 
should be removable, to provide for watering and venti- 
lation. The bottom box can be made ornamental if one 
prefers, but the glass top will present the best appear- 
ance, if in some simple and neat style. 

The soil for filling the box should contain a large 
amount of sand and leaf mold, and for some plants a 
generous supply of peat is advisable. If properly sup- 
plied with water when first filled, it will need but little 
more, as it condenses upon the glass and runs back to 
the soil. Among the best plants for a Wardi^m case are 
the more delicate of the tropical ferns and selaginellas, 
niarantas, peperomias, dracaenas, crotons and both foli- 
18 



274 GREENHOUSE MAi^AGEMENT. 

age and flowering begonias. They will require little or 
no care in addition to an occasional wateriu"', except to 
raise the glass for a short time each morning, to afford 
them a supply of fresh air, and to pick out the decayed 
leaves and flowers. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

THE GROWING OF BEDDING PLANTS. 

In every greenhouse, whether public or private, 
some attention is given to the growing of plants for 
lawn decoration. A few years ago, the plants used on 
the oi'dinary lawn consisted of a few common varieties, 
grown from seeds, or *^slips" taken from the plants 
grown for winter flowering. 

Not only has the number of varieties used for this 
purpose increased, but within the last twenty years the 
attention given to car])et bedding and other lawn plant- 
ing has increased many fold. For convenience, the 
plants used for this purpose may be divided into foliage 
plants, flowering plants, bulbs and ornamental grasses. 



FOLIAGE PLANTS. 

At the present time, the number of species of plants 
of this class in use is comparatively small, and yet per- 
haps they are used more extensively than all others com- 
bined. They are very easily and cheajjly grown, and, 
unlike many of the flowering plants, are ornamental 
throughout the entire season. 

Among tiie best-known and most useful plants of 
this class are the coleus, achyranthes (or, more properly, 
iresine) and alternanthera. The first two greatly 
resemble each other, and as they require about the same 



TIIK GKOWINC; OK BEDDlXCi I'LAKTS. 275 

care, tlioy may be considered together. The alternaii- 
tliera, on the other hand, is a small, compact growing- 
plant, seldom reaching a bight of more than six inches, 
while the others are from twelve to twenty. 

These jilants are grown from cuttings, those for the 
stock plants being made about the first of September. 
Sometimes the cuttings are not secured until the plants 
have been more or less cut back by frost, which will 
tend to weaken them considerably. The plants, as 
grown in the beds, require more or less pinching and 
trimming, and the portions cut off can be used for cut- 
tings and will thus be secured and out of the way before 
the rush of housing the plants begins. As soon as 
rooted, they should be potted into two-inch pots and 
placed in a house, where they will have an average night 
temperature of 00 degrees. Considerable space can be 
saved if three or even four of the alternanthera cuttings 
are placed in one i)ot, and grown in this way until Feb- 
ruary, when they can be separated and each placed in a 
pot by itself. 

The soil required for these plants during the winter 
should not be very rich, as it is desirable to hold them 
back until after the first of January. If they show 
signs of spindling, the terminal bud should be pinched 
off. When many cuttings are desired, the plants should 
be repotted about January 1, and started into growth. 
By the liberal use of liquid manure, several crops of cut- 
tings can be obtained from the stock plants. These 
should be given the same treatment as was recom- 
mended for the stock plants, and by the first of May, if 
large plants are desired for planting out, they should 
be given a final si lift into three or three and one- 
half-inch pots. 

To harden th.em off for planting out, it is well to 
place the bedding plants in cold frames at this time, 
having it so that they can be covered in stormy weather 



•^;t; GREEl^HOUSE MAi^AGEiMENT. 

and on cold nights. When to bo used by the grower, it 
is very convenient to give them tlieir linal shift into 
deep fliits, where, il* placeil four inches apart, tbey will 
do better than if left in pots, and require less care, 
besides being more conveniiMit for handling. 

Tbe alternantliera recpiires a moist air and can be 
best })roi)agated if the stock ])lants are })laced in a good 
hotbed, also using it for striking tbe cuttings and grow- 
ing the plants. The care necessary to winter and prop- 
agate coleus and achyranthes is about the same as for 
alternanthera, except that the cuttings are usually 
potted singly. If carefully watered and tbe temperature 
is kept at 00 degrees, they can be grown with little loss. 
Among the best varieties of coleus for bedding purposes 
are the Verschaffeltii, wbich is of a rich, dark maroon 
color and has been for years at tbe head of the list, 
and Golden Verscliatfeltii, similar to the last in growtb, 
but of a clear, bright yellow. 

The varieties of achyranthes are either of some 
shade of red, or of yellow with a green ground. Tbe 
best of the red leaved sorts are the Tloveyii, with dull, 
carmine leaves, whicii are broadly ovate in form and 
have whitish veins; Lindenii, with lanceolate, rich, 
blood-red leaves ; Herbstii aurea-reticulata, with carmine 
stems, petioles ami veins, while the leaves are green 
blotched Avith vellow. Amono- the others are Emersonii, 
a variety resembling Lindenii, and Gilsonii, which dif- 
fers from aurea-reticulata princit)ally in the shape 
of the leaves. 

Among the better varieties of alternanthera are A. 
auiahilis, A. speritfbili.'i, A. paronf/cJiioides^ A. pa ran j/- 
chioides major, and A. vprsirojor, which have various 
shades of red. orange and broiue. or olive green, and 
-1. parofn/rJn'oidcs itutjor aiirea, with a foliage colored 
green and yellow. TIu^ latter, espt^cially, is very useful 
for bedding pur])oses. 



THE GROWLS' a UF BEDJJIA'U PLAXTS. 2i7 

To contrast with the above dark colored foliage 
plants, a number with silver or yellow foliage are grown, 
tlie most common of which are the Centcmrea (jjimiKj- 
carpa and candidiasima, Cineraria waritima, an<l Pyre- 
thrum aureum. These are all readily grown from seed, 
which should be sown in shallow flats during February. 
The seedlings should be transferred to small pots or 
flats as soon as the first true leaves appear, and with good 
care will be large enough by the middle of May to be 
i:)lanted out as borders for geranitims, dark-colored coletis 
and other bedding plants. 

FLOWEKIXG PLAXTS. 

Of the other bedding plants that are commonly 
grown from seed, we may mention petunias, phlox, ver- 
benas, alyssum, candy-tuft, balsams, portulaca, asters, 
celosia, dianthus and ricinus. In a general way, these 
require about the same care as the other seedling 
annuals, '^^riiere are also a large number of bedding 
plants valued jorincijjally for their flowers, which may 
be grown from seed, but which are usually propagated 
by means of cuttings, among them are ageratum, gera- 
nium, lantana, cuphea, while many of those grown from 
seeds could be propagated by means of cuttings, if it is 
desired to rei)roduce some choice variety. 

SWEET PEAS. 

While the sweet pea likes a cool, moist and rather 
heavy soil, it can be grown successfully in almost any 
place where the soil is not too dry and where the plants 
will not be too near large trees or in the shade of build- 
ings. It is a good plan to prepare the soil the fall pre- 
vious to ])lanting by applying three or four inches of 
thoroughly decom]iosed manure, and working it into the 
soil to the depth of ten or twelve inches where the rows 
are to be. A liberal amount of wood ashes and ground 
bone can also be used to advantage. Another method is 



:^T8 (iUKKNHOrsK M AN Ar,l"Mi: NT. 

to ilii:: a (roiu'li nvolvo inohos doo[> and foiirtoon iiu'lios 
uido and placo in iho bottom six iiu'bos of compostod 
inannro, to whii^'h wood ashos and uround bono lia\o beon 
addod. If tlio fvM'nior niothod is nsod. drills fov tliosood 
aiv niado six inohos doop and ton inches apart, in whioli 
tbo soods are sown as soon as the ground I'an bo worked 
in the si>ring". They shonUi be dropped in a seatterini;' 
manner in the drills so that thev will be two or three 
inehes apart. Tlanted in tliis way. there will be ten or 
twelve plants in eaeh foot of the donble rc>ws. When 
low-prieed seed is used, twiee as many may be planted 
and the surplus plants removed. If the bottom o( the 
treneli has been tilled with eompost. as was reeonnnended 
above, a little soil siionld be sprinkled over it and the 
seeds sown. In either ease they should not be eovered 
uitli more than two inehes of soil at tirst. If the weath- 
er is very eold after the seed is planted, it will be well to 
eover the rows with a lii:ht muleh or boards, renunim;- 
them as the weather beeomos warmer. After the i>lants 
ai^pear above irround the trenches should be gfadually 
filled, taking eare not to eover the crowns. The danger 
of rot and blight will be lessened if the covering soil is 
sandv. If the ground is not ready when the seed should 
bo sown. i>r in the case of choice varieties, the seed may 
bo sown in souu^ warm spot, or in boxes or pots in the 
liouse or cold franH\ and the plants transplanted when 
one or two inelies high. I'nless Si>wn in pots care should 
be taken in transplanting not io break the taproots. 

When well grown, most of tlie stronger varieties will 
reach a hight of six feet and uill need a substantial sup- 
port. In some places bushy branches of trees may bo 
used, but a neater and generally more satisfactory sup- 
port can be obtained from oitlun* a twine, wire or w ire- 
netting tivllis. This should bo fnun four io six feet 
high. u]H>n strong, well-braced supports. It will be de- 
sirable to have a row of stakes for each row : thev nniy 



BLLIiS i-Oh TJIK LAWX. 270 

oithor ha vertical (jr iridiiiod ho tliat tlio topn toucli. 
The strings may be run vertically, but it will be better 
if tbe wires are arranged eitber liorizontally or diago- 
nally. Wbatever .su[)|)OJt.s are to be used, they should be 
in place soon after the plants appear above ground, and 
care should be taken to have the bottom of the trellis at 
such a bight that the plants can readily reach it. 

There should be a slight liollow where the rows are, 
so that rain water will be held, and to permit of the 
ready watering of the Burfaee if the weather becomes 
dry. Sub-irrigation for sweet peas gives excellent 
results. It can be j)rovid(;d by laying three-inch drain 
tiles, into which water can be turned, along the rows, 
just below the surface of the ground. In order to pre- 
vent the loss of water by evaporation, the surface of tiie 
soil should be covered, as soon as the weather becomes 
dry, with two inches of fine grass, straw or other litter. 
If the flowers are not picked it is of the utmost impor- 
tance that the seed pods be removed as soon as they form. 
If this is neglected, the plants will be likely to dry up 
by midsummer. 

BULBS FOIt THE LAWX. 

Many of the bulbs used for the decoration of the 
lawn in summer are started in the greenhouse in the 
spring and are then transferred to the ground outside. 
Among them are the caladium, canna and dahlia. 

The Caladium esculentum, which is the species 
most commonly used for lawn planting, should be dug 
after the leaves have been cut by frost, and after being 
dried should be packed away in some moderately warm, 
dry place. I'o prevent excessive drying, it is a good i)lan 
to place them in shallow boxes and pack dry soil or sand 
about them. In March or April the bulbs should be 
j)otted off singly in i)ots whose diameter is about twice 
that of the bulbs. They like a rich, light soil, and after 



280 CiKEENIIOrSK MANAlJEME^sT. 

being thoroughly wiitered slionhi bo ]ilacccl in a uarni 
room. If the potting has been delayed, they can be ad- 
vanced by giving a strong bottom lieat. After the leaves 
have appeared they will stand a considerable amount of 
water, provided the })ots are well drained. 

Cannas should be put away for the winter in about 
the same manner as caladiums, but will stand a some- 
what lower tem})erature. although it should be kept well 
above 40 degrees, ^lany varieties do well if placed in 
})ots or boxes, or planted out in beds, for several nuuiths 
in the fall, for supplying flowers and brightening up the 
greenhouse. It is also well to pot otf some of the bulbs 
in the winter, after they have had a short rest, and thus 
secure flowers in the early spring. The usual plan has 
been to keep the bulbs in the cellar, or under the green- 
house benches, until danger of frost is over and then 
after dividing them so that there will be at least one 
strong bud on each ]>iece, planting them in the open 
ground. Quicker aiul better results can be obtained, 
however, if they have been started in pots or boxes 
before they are transferred to the beds outside. With 
choice varieties it is possible to increase the rapidity 
of propagation if the bulbs are planted on beds in a 
greenhouse where they will have a brisk bottom heat 
about midwinter, in a short time new shoots will form, 
which can be taken oft' and in turn ])lanted out to 
reproduce. 

Several of the new sorts, such as Italia and xlustria, 
seem to be well adapted for flowering in pots, but the 
texture of the petals is such that they do not succeed out- 
side in most parts of the country unless they are planted 
in partial shade. For ordinary use, either on the lawn 
or in the house, there are few^ if any better sorts than 
the well-known Mme. Crozy. Florence Vaughan is 
perhaps the best yellow spotted variety. Among the 
other sorts that have been generally successful are 



thp: ])AnLi\. 281 

Al])liun.se Boiivicr, P^xplorateur Cnuii[>bul, Egaudalc, 
deoffrey St. Hilliare. J. D. Cabos, Paul Marqiiant and 
Pres. Cariiot. 

THE DAHLIA. 

This old favorite is again becoming the fashion, and 
even now is usurping the attention that lias for some 
years been given the sweet })ea. The single sorts may 
Ije grown successfully from seed, but for the double vari- 
eties it is better to rely upon cuttings of the stem, or 
division of the roots. The cuttings j-oot readily in sand, 
and if started early will give good results. In dividing 
tlie roots, it is necessary that there should be a bud at 
the end of each. The operation can be most readily per- 
formed if the stools are slightly started into growth be- 
fore the division is made. 

Dahlias like a deej), rich, moist and rather heavy 
soil, aiul in few })lants Avill a little extra labor in the 
|)r('])aration of the soil be bettejr repaid. An excess of 
nitrogenous manure should be avoided, as it will give a 
rank growth of leaves and few Howers, while a sandy soil 
is likely — owing to its usual deficiency in plant food and 
moisture — to give rather small plants upon a few small 
roots, and with undersized flowers. If moisture and 
l)lant food are provided, excellent results can be secured 
upon a sandy loam soil. The plants should be set in the 
beds as soon as danger of frost is over. They will be 
best in rows, if a large number are to be grown, and 
with a large collection it will be well to have them far 
enough apart to admit of cultivating them with a 
horse. Owing to their love of moisture, it is very desir- 
able in ' dry summers that the surface of the soil be 
ke])t loose to the depth of two inches, to lessen the 
amount of evaporation. 

As commonly grown, allow ing th-em to form shoots 
freely, most varieties re(iuire staking to prevent the 



282 GKEENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

breaking down of the stems by high winds, but many of 
the new varieties have short stiff stems that make this 
unnecessary. A better way of training the plants, which 
will seldom require staking, is by pinching off the shoots 
after they have two nodes above ground and allowing 
four branches to form, all other shoots being removed. 
In this way four stout shoots will be secured which can 
be trained to single stems, if large flowers are desired, or 
they may be again pinched and thus made to form as 
many shoots as are wislied. Another metliod, where 
large flowers are desired, is to allow but one main shoot to 
grow. This will become quite large and ti'ee-like and 
will require staking. 

When the tops have been killed by frost they should 
be cut and, if severe freezing weather is likely to follow, 
the roots should be dug ; after the removal of most of the 
earth and partially drying them, if the soil is wet, they 
should be stored in some cool but frost-proof and mod- 
erately dry cellar. 

The cactus dahlia is likely to become the favorite 
flower for late summer and early fall, and in the new 
varieties there are many handsome forms and brilliant 
colors. The original plant was carried from Mexico to 
Holland in 1872. It was named Dahlia Juarez, in honor 
of the President of Mexico. Instead of the quilled flo- 
rets found in other forms those of the cactus dahlias are 
flat and strap-shaped. 

The following list of varieties is recommended by 
the Cornell Experiment Station: Cactus, Mrs. A. Peart, 
white ; Nymphaea, pink ; Wm. Agnew, scarlet orange ; 
Maid of Kent, scarlet and white ; Black Prince, dark 
red ; large flowered, Grand Duke Alexis, white ; Ethel 
Vick, pink ; Rev. C. ^Y. Bolton, variegated, red and 
yellow ; Fern Leaved Benuty, banded, red and white : 
pompon. Guiding Star, white, imbricated ; Vivid, scar- 
let orange, and Ami Barillet, single, scarlet. 



HARDY ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 283 

HARDY ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 

For j)lantiDg on the liiwn in connection with shrub- 
bery and strong growing sub-tropical phxnts, there are 
many ornamental grasses that can be used with good 
effect. Although generally spoken of as hardy, most of 
them are greatly benefited by winter protection, and in 
many parts of the country even this is not sufficient. 
They delight in a rich and moist but well-drained soil, 
and in suitable locations present a handsome and striking 
appearance for three or four months in the year. 

Among the most desirable are several species of Eu- 
lalia. Under favorable conditions Eulalia Japonica 
Zehrina will prove very attractive. It is a tall growing 
sort, with long, narrow leaves transversely marked with 
broad patches of yellow. In the fall its flower spikes 
form open, feathery plumes. It propagates readily by 
division of the clumps, and, if well mulched, wall pass 
the winter in well-drained soil where the climate is not 
too severe, but where there is danger of winterkilling 
the clumps can be taken up in the fall and planted in 
pots or shallow boxes. Placed in a cool cellar or cold 
frame, they will require no care except an occasional 
moistening of the soil if it becomes dry. In the spring 
they can be started into growth and planted out after 
danger of frost is over. Of the other species, Eulalia 
Japonica vai'iegata, which is the same as the above ex- 
cept that the stripes are narrow and longitudinal, and 
E. gracillima univitata are most desirable. The latter is 
six or eight feet high, Avith quite narrow leaves which 
bear a single longitudinal stripe. It is quite hardy and 
in most parts of the country will pass the winter in the 
open ground without protection. 

Arundo Donax variegata is another strong-growing 
form which in most localities should be wintered in a 
cellar or cold frame. The Fountain grass, PennUetum 
longistylum and its purple variety, P. RiqypeUanum, are 



.t}!^-t OREKXTTOrsK MAXAOEMFXT. 

excellent ms a border for other orn^^ses and stroiio-grow- 
ing ]>l;iHts of nuv kiiul. It is propagated from s«>ed, whicli 
is freely })rodueed, tlie seeds being sown in April and 
grown the same as other annuals. 

In some sections the Pampas grass is also sncccss- 
fnlly grown and presents a very striking a])ivaranee. 
Seyeral forms of bamboo can also be used to advantage 
for lawn planting, and in some localities can be wintered 
successfully in the open ground. 

SrCCULEXTS. 

For bedding purposes, sonu^ of the succulents, such 
as Echeyerias, are largely grown and their use for this 
])urpose seems to be increasing in public favor. whiK' ihe 
cacti proper, the aloes and agaves are so easy of cultiva- 
tion, so interesting in habit and attractiye in flower, that 
in eyery collection they are nuuv or less ntnnerous. (M" 
the cotyledons [I^Jrhfrcriff) the foiMu known as scnoKia 
(/IdKca is most used f(U- bediling. It ]u-opagates rtuidily 
by uu^ins of otfshoots from the parent })lants, whieh 
only need lo be separated and ])otted off. or by the use 
of leaf cuttings. 

l>v the latter method, the leaves are separated — 
pulled off and luu cut — from the parent plant, in the fall 
or spring, and after the end has callused over they are 
set in the cutting boxes, where they should haye only 
enough water to keep them from shriyelling. Koots 
will s«nu\ form and the bud at the l)ase of the leaves will 
start, and form a plant large emuigh to use tlie following 
season. Succulents of all kinds should be kept moder- 
ately dry during their resting period in the winter, but 
vyhen growth starts in the s]u-ing water should be given 
in generous quantities, and, unless they haye been 
recently repotted, liquid manure can be used to advan- 
tage. They delight in a sandy soil ami tluu-ough drain- 
age. During the summer, the i>lants used for bedding 



SUCCULENTS. 



;>s:) 



pnrpofiCfi should have a fair aniouiii of water, altliou-li 
tliey have few equals as bedding plants when the supply 
is short. JJuring the winter they ean be kept in a eool 
house (45 degrees). 

Several forms, such as Cotyledon yibhiflora meiallicu 
(commonly called EJieveria metallica) are desirable for 
winter flowering and many of them, including several 
annuals, can be readdy increased from seeds. The 




KIG. O.'i. Kl'II'HYLLU3r TRUNCATUM. 

houseleeks, Mesembryanthemum, and similar forms, 
require much the same care. 

Of the other succulents, the Cereus and the leaf 
cacti Phyllocactus and E|)iphyllum (Fig. 93) are most 
commonly grown. The most desirable species of the 
lirst genus are (J. grandiflorns, (J. Macdonaldi and C. 
Iriamjularis and the rat-tailed cactus {C. fia(j(:Uifonnu). 



x*8(J 



GREENHOUSE HAXAGEMENT. 



They are increased by cutting u]) the stems into 
pieces three inches long and rooting them under the 
same conditions as the Cotyledon. Soon after the 
srowtli starts, suckers and branches will be sent out. 
it will o-enerallv be best, in case an old stem was used 
for the cuttings, to cut these olf and root them, which 
can be readily done. The EpiphylUims and other leaf 




FIG. 94. A COLLECTION' OF CACTI AND ALOES. 

cacti are often grown as standards, by grafting them 
upon Pereskia stocks. The form of graft used is a mod- 
ification of the cleft graft and is known as the saddk^ 
graft. Among the otlier desirable forms are the Opun- 
tias, with their flattened leaf-like stems, the Mammil- 
larias and Echiuocactiis. witli their spherical forms, 
and a number of handsome species of aloes (Fig. 94). 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

PROPAGATION^ OF PLANTS BY SEEDS AND CUTTINGS. 

In order to keep up a supply of plants and to mul- 
tiply individuals of merit, some method of propagation 
must be employed, the one selected being that best 
suited to the particular species or v^iriety. Many of our 
plants are known as annuals, from the fact that they will 
Gfrow and mature seed in one season, after which they 
die. As a rule, such plants are reproduced the follow- 
ing year from the seeds, which are freely produced. 

The methods of propagation known as grafting, 
budding and layering, are also sometimes employed in 
growing greenhouse plants, but a more common way is 
by means of sections of the plants, known as cuttings, 
which are removed and subjected to such influences as 
will induce them to throw out roots. Another method 
of division, used with plants thh'c sucker freely, is the 
division of the roots, the plants being separated into two 
or more i)ortions, each consisting of a piece of root sur- 
mounted by a stem, or at least bearing a bud. When- 
ever it can be used, this is one of the surest methods of 
multiplying ])lants, and some species can be increased 
very rapidly when other methods fail, or are, for some 
reason, unsatisfactory. 

GROWING OF PLANTS FROM SEEDS. 

Not only are our annual plants readily increased 
from seeds, but the method is also employed in multi- 
plying many of our biennials and perennials, and is our 
only means, except in case of sports developed by bud 

287 



•.\<is 



« i K i: i: N 1 1 o I s i: m a n a ( ; i: m i: n t. 



\ ;ni;il ion. (»f olW;iiniuL: in'w \;irii'lics. Vov \\\v siircrss- 
lul iitMMiiinat ion iA' scvi\s, rrrl;iiii roiulilions luust hi> 
pivstMit ; tirst. the soods slu>iiKl \h' |)luni|». woll-ripcMUHi. 
•,\\u\ thov must still [>ossot^s thoir vitality unimpairtHl. 
Tlio host ivsults will bo ohtaiiuHl if. al'l^M' tho soods 
havo hocu oloanod and propiM-ly ilriod, tlu>\ :\\v plainnl in 
]>a[>or saoks, oi\ bottor mm. in tin boxos or <;lass boltlos. 
and kopl in a dry room, at a toni|HM'atiiro of 50 doiiroos. 
If tlu\v bavo boon projUM-ly driotl, (c\\ i^ccdti will bo 
injurod ovon if tbo toniporatnro falls ludow t bo fivo/inii^ 
lt*>int. but vitality will bo bost prc^sorvinl if tlu>y aro kopt 
at a modorato. ovi>n toniporatiiro: ospooially sbonld a 
biiih toniporatiiro bo avoidod for oily s(vds. 

Sooond, tbo soods must bo oxposod to a lomptn*atnr(^ 
siiitOil to tluMT iuhhIs. and a propor snp[)ly of moisturo. 
with froo aoooss oi air. must W' alTordotl tliom. Tlu^ 
iiMiiporatiiro ro(]uirod for tbo liormi nation of soods is 
about tbo samo as is noodod by tbo plants, but ii(M'mina- 
lion will bo bastonod if it is somo \cu or tiftoon do^roos 
bigbor. Wbon 4.'> to 50 dogroos issnitablo for tbo plants 
at night, tho soods should bo givon from 55 to (10 dogroos, 
and if tbo oxooss oan bo in tbo form of bottom 
boat it will bo ovon moro bonotioial : a similar in- 
oroaso will baston tbo liormination of tlu' soods o\' 
plants that noo(i (it) to 10 dogroos. Aftor tbo soods bavo 
boon sown, thoy should not ho allowod to boooino dry, 
and yot groat oaro is nooossary that tho soil doos not 
boooino saturated. 

Partioularly with small soods that nood but a thiti 
covering, it is well to havo tboni shaded, as well as to 
keep them ocnorod. and thus prevent tho ra})id evapora- 
tion of the water, and tho oonsotiuont drying out of the 
soil. If in tho shade, the moisture oan bo retained by 
moans of a pane of glass pla.eod over tbo box or pan. but 
if so situated that the direet rays of the sun oan fall 
upon them, it will ho well to eovor tlie ghiss with paper. 



'] \)<- jrlaHH ,-lioiiM }><• Hlij.'litly lillc^l to afTord uwomh of air. 
I''<;r lioIfliuj( tli«; Hoil, .-liallow woodorj bo\r;H or flat,-; 
;iri-:\v<;r r;v(;ry juirpo-fc, alt lK)iif(l) Aowd florJHtH [>rc*fc'r 
unj(lazf;(j, cart.licnwarc H(:f-<\ pariH ; in eitlHT case, thor- 
ou<(li (]rainaj(M rnuHt bf? fjrovidod by nieariH of holf^H or 
craokH iri i Ik; hot torn.-. 

WlH;ri only a f(;w of a kin^l mc to bo H^>wn, a nlial- 
low ci^^ur box will annvv^rr ff>r nrnall hckjh, and boxoH with 
a (Jcptli of fioni one or orio and ono-lialf to two and 
ono-half itif;lK;H, ai;oordin;( tn tli(; r.\yj; of iho needs, are 
an)[)h'. In l;jr;(e eHtabliHbrncntH, the Heed bedn can, if 
denired, be made upon tlie f.^rrjenbou-'C benelien, thoroiif(b 
drai?ia;/e beinr^ provid(!d for. 

'I'Im! Hoil for the h('('(\ In-d varieH to Home extent with 
tli<' rharaetcr f»f tbe plant-, but, an a rule, tlie Hame noil 
aH \H used for pottinf( will answer, altbouf^b it will be 
im}novr'd by the addition of f,W(;nty-five per eent of Hand, 
cspeeially for (;ov(!ring the H(;edH. Tbe depth of eover- 
in^r will vary with th(! nize of the need, but, under glans, 
it will be from three to live tirneH thfir diameter, while 
in the oj)en ground it will bo about fifty per eent deeper, 
varyin^^ with the eharar;ter of tiie Hoil. While Keedn 
may be sown broadeaHt, it will r(enerally be found lie.st 
to have th'-in in drills about one ineli a|»art for .-mall 
H(»(»dH, and two inehcH for the lar;(er onen. 

In tilling th(! boxes with .soil, pains sliould be taken 
to pr(!Hs it, into tin; (;orners, and we must not forget the 
ri(u;essity of leavinf^ the soil Hli;.ditly below the edge, to 
prevent the water riiiiniii;^ otT. The proper depth of 
soil for eovr-ring the Heeds, wlien they need one-eighth of 
an ineh or more, eaii be secured in various ways ; one 
b(Mng by making shallow trenches across the seed beds, 
slightly deeper than the covering needed and, after Bow- 
ing the seed, filling tin; tnMiches; while another is by 
filling the box HO that, for seeds that require covering a 
fpiarter of an inr b. when the noil has been leveled off 
I'J 



290 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

and slightly pressed down, it will he alxmt une-lialf inch 
below tlic edge of tiie box. After sowing the seeds, 
either broadcast or in rows upon the surface, fill up the 
box with light, prepared soil, strike it off and press it 
down. A wooden float of convenient size, with handle, 
will be useful in sowing seeds. In this way, a uniform 
depth of covering soil will be secured and the surface 
will be sufficiently pressed to hold the water. With a 
little practice, the depth can be adjusted for any 
size of seed. 

When the sowing has been completed, the boxes should 
be thoroughly watered, after which, as with plants in 
pots, the seed boxes should not be watered until their 
appearance indicates the necessity, and then enough 
should be applied to thoroughly wet the soil. When 
the boxes can be placed for a few minutes in a water- 
tight bed, holding two inches of water, the soil will be 
moistened without danger of washing the seeds, or of 
causing the plants to damp off. 

As soon as the first true leaves show, the seedlings 
should be pricked out, either in flats or small pots ; for 
many plants, the flats will be preferable for the first 
transplanting. 

THE FORMATTOl^ OF NEW TARIETIES. 

While it is possible to obtain new varieties of many 
plants by merely growing seedlings, others almost invari- 
ably reproduce themselves, and with them we must 
resort to artificial crossing, or hybridizing. In fact, 
although some progress may be made in improving those 
of the first class, by selecting the more promising seed- 
lings, far better results can be obtained if we control the 
parentage by artificial pollination. 

For any desired improvements, we should select as 
parents two varieties that have the desired qualities well 
developed, and transfer pollen from the anthers of one 



PKOPAGATION BY CUTTIXGS. 291 

to the stigmiis of the other. To do this i)roperly, pre- 
caution must be taken that no other i)ollen gains access 
to the stigmas. This can be done by first removing the 
anthers from all perfect flowers that are to be used as 
females, before the petals open, and covering them with 
small paper sacks. We have thus prevented tliem from 
being self fertilized, or crossed with pollen of unknown 
orig-in. The anthers may be pulled off with tweezers, 
or the corolla may be cut away, thus permitting their 
easy removah 

As soon as the stigmas have developed, the pollen 
from the otlier parent should be applied, using a tooth- 
pick for small flowers, while the anthers may be broken 
out from large ones with tweezers, and the pollen dusted 
over the surface of the stigmas. To secure the best 
results, a superabundance of })ollen should be used. 
The bag should then be replaced and kept on four or five 
days. In this way, we may hope to secure seedlings 
some of which, if they do not surpass them, will possess 
to a high degree the good qualities of both parents. 

PROPAGATION^ BY CUTTIKGS. 

Success with this method of propagation depends 
uj^on the condition of the plants, and the surroundings 
to which the cuttings are exposed. As a rule, most of 
our perennial greenhouse plants are grown from cut- 
tings. In some cases, seeds are not readily obtained, 
and in others the seedlings do not make desirable plants, 
or they do not reproduce the variety. In a great majority 
of these cases, cuttings are readily obtained and rooted. 

The plants from which cuttings are taken should be 
strong and vigorous ; if stunted by insects or by improper 
surroundings of heat, light, temperature, or food, or 
weakened by excessive production of flowers, the results 
will be quite unsatisfactory, and it will be equally so if 
soft, watery growth, produced by a high temperature 



2d2 



GEEENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 




PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



293 



and excess of nitrogenous food, is used. The use of 
cuctings from plants enfeebled by disease will be even 
more disastrous, as the plants produced will not only be 
susceptible to the attack of the same and other diseases, 
but they may even have the germs of the disease within 
them when severed from the parent plant. 

On the other hand, it is always best to propagate 
from individual plants that, in their vigor, freedom from 
disease, prolificacy, or in the size, shape or color of their 




FIG. 96. IMPROPER AND PROPER CONDITION OF STEM FOR CUTTINGS. 



flowers or fruits, show unusual merit. If such plants 
are marked in some way (Fig. 95), cuttings can be made 
from them at the proper time and thus a strain of pedi- 
gree plants can be established. 

Greenhouse plants are generally multiplied by what 
is known as soft cuttings of the stems. They are usually 
made from terminal shoots, although if cuttings lower 
down the stem can be obtained in the })roi)er condition, 
they will readily root and make good plants. 



;>0-J: GKEENIIOUSE MANAGE3IEIIT. 

While a soft, watery growth is not desirable, cut- 
tings cannot, as a rule, be induced to root readily after 
they become woody, and the usual test is to reject all 
cuttings that when bent do not snap off, rather than 
crush down without breaking, the latter behavior indi- 
cating that the fibro-vascular bundles (woody fibers), 
have formed (Fig. 90). Cuttings made from stems in 
that condition root slowly and sparingly, and the plants 
will be weaker than when made from those in the 
proper condition. For a few plants like the rose, a 
firmer condition of the wood is desirable. 

Soft cuttings should have a bud at the top, and from 
one to three inches of stem. Unless a cutting can be 
made three inches long and have its base in proper con- 
dition, it will be better to shorten it to one inch, and, if 

necessary, the length may be even 
less, its stem being principally of 
value to give a secure hold in the 
cutting bed. Cuttings of this kind 
should have at least one leaf, and 
sometimes from two to four arc 
left. Those at the lower part of 
the stem should be removed, and 
the others shortened in (Fig. 97). 

FIG. 97. SOFT CUTTING « 

OF coLEus. In this way the amount of evapo- 

ration will be checked and the cuttings can be placed 
nearer together. Cuttings should be so handled that 
they will not wilt. It is well to use a sharp knife, and 
to cut off the stem at nearly right angles. Neither, 
however, is really necessary, and in many cases the cut- 
tings can be broken off without the use of a knife. If in 
the proper condition, most cuttings will root readily from 
any part of the stem, but with others that root with diffi- 
culty, and especially if they have become too hard, it will 
be well to have a bud near the base of the cuttings, as 
roots are most readily sent out from near the nodes. 




THE CL'TTIKG BED. ^^95 

THE CUTTING BED. 

Cuttings root readily in sand, but, although the sil- 
ver sand that was a few years ago insisted u})on is not a 
necessity, it should be free from organic matter. The 
sand should also be sharp, and of about medium fineness ; 
if too fine, or too coarse, it should be rejected, as the one 
packs together and obstructs the entrance of air, while 
the other admits it too freely, and dries out too readily. 
The cutting bed should have sufficient drainage to let off 
any surplus water, and bottom heat should be provided 
in some way. A narrow span-roof house, or a lean-to 
to the north or east, makes a good propagating house. 
It should afford ample means of securing ventilation. 

The sand should have a depth of about three inches, 
and, although not necessary, the best results will be 
obtained if it is renewed after each batch of cuttings is 
taken out. After the sand has been thoroughly wet 
down and has drained off, the cuttings may be inserted. 
They should be placed in straight rows across the bed, 
so that the leaves of the cuttings do not quite touch. It 
is a good plan, if space permits, to have the rows about 
twice as far apart as the plants are in the rows. Having 
made a narrow trench for the cuttings, they are inserted 
about one-half their length, the sand is pressed firmly 
about them and the bed is wet down. 

For the first few days, it is well to give them at 
least partial shade from sun, either by placing lath or 
cloth screens over the glass, or by spreading paper or 
cloth over the cuttings. With a slight shading of the 
glass, the latter can generally be left off after the first 
week. While precaution must be taken against excessive 
watering, there is also danger from allowing the bed to 
dry out as, if they wilt, the cuttings are much injured. 
Especially on summer days, an occasional slight sprin- 
kling will be l)eneficial. The ventilation should be care- 
fully looked after, and the arrangement should be such 



296 



GREEKHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



as will prevent a draft over the cutting bed. As soon as 
the roots have reached a length of half an inch, the cut- 
tings should be potted into small pots and will need care- 
ful watering and shading for a few days. 

While the above instructions apply to most plants, 
there are a few that, owing to some j^jeculiarity of con- 
struction or growth, need different treatment, and among 
them are our common Pelargoniums (geraniums), (Fig. 

98), and many of the 
cacti and other succu- 
lent plants. These are 
more or less succulent, 
and if placed at once in 
a cutting bed and treated 
as above, are likely to rot 
off. After being made, 
it is well to si3read them 
out and allow them to 
wilt for from one day to 
one week, and then place 
them in a rather dry 
cutting bed, or they may 
at once be potted off, 
using a soil containing 
at least one-half sand. 
If, after giving them one thorough watering, water is with- 
helduntil they begin to wilt, cuttings handled in this way 
will often show smaller losses than when grown in a cut- 
ting bed. Many plants do not strike readily unless in a 
moist warm air, and for such a hand glass or propaga- 
ting cjise must be used. 

SAUCER PROPAGATION. 

Another method of rooting cuttings that gives 
excellent results when bottom heat cannot he secured, is 
by placing them in earthenware i)ans of sand, two or 




FIG. 98. GERANIUM CUTTING. 



CUTTIifGS. 29? 

tlii'ee inches deep, wliicli are kept constantly saturated 
with water. The other treatment, such as the makins: 
and setting- of the cuttings, Avatering and ventihiting, is 
exactly the same as for the cutting l)ed. Some of our 
common plants, like tlie oleander, root even better if 
placed in clear water than when in a cutting bed, or the 
saucer with its mud. 

Any kind of glazed earthenware vessel, of a suitable 
size and depth, may be used, but if it is unglazed tlie 
water will need to be much more frequently added. 

EYE CUTTINGS. 

Many plants, such as the dracasnas, cordylines, 
Dieffenbachi{is and others that form very few terminal 
shoots, have latent or adventitious buds upon their 
stems, and if these are cut into sections, about three 
inches long, and placed in a strong bottom heat in a 
])ropagating case, shoots Avill soon be sent out, whicli 
can then be taken off and rooted in sand. It is often 
bene^cial to split the sections and place them in the 
sand with the rounded side uppermost. The eye cutting 
used in propagating the grape (Fig. 84) differs in having a 
thin shaving of bark removed from the side opposite 
the btid. 

ROOT CUTTINGS. 

It sometimes happens that it becomes necessary to 
multiply plants rajiidly that do not grow readily from 
cuttings of the stems, and which either increase in 
number very slowly from the roots or fail to make good 
plants when grown in this way, and some other form of 
multiplication must be tried. If they have a tendency 
to sucker from the roots, we can use what are known as 
root cuttings. These are made by taking the roots of 
such ])lants and cutting them into pieces fi'om one to 
three inches long. The i)ieoes should be placed in flats, 
either on propagating benches or in hotbeds, and covered 



208 



GK£E2^H0USE MAXAGEMENT. 



with about one inch of sandy soil. AVith bottom hent, 
they will soon callus and send out roots and one or more 
stems. The after-treatment is the same as for stem 
cuttings. 

HARD CUTTINGS. 

Some plants root readily from the wood of the pre- 
vious year's growth, even after it has become hard, if 
made and callused while tlie stems are dormant, so that 

they will be ready to send out 
roots as the leaves appear. What 
are known as short cuttings need 
ts^ bottom heat to start readily, but 
with pro])er attention are excel- 
lent for the propagation of grapes 
and other deciduous plants that 
root readily. They are from two 
to three inches in length, with a 
strong bud near the top, and with 
a strip of bark and a little of the 
wood removed from one side for 
^, „.. about* an inch from the lower end 

FIG. J)"J. Cl TT1N<; OK AKP.OK 

viTK. (Fig. 85). They should be in- 

serted in shallow boxes of sand with about an inch of 
rich compost in the bottom, so that the buds will be 
just covered. They need a cool room where they can 
have a little bottom heat, but the temperature should be 
low enough to retard the swelling of the buds until after 
the roots have appeared. While they must not be 
allowed to become dry, only a little water will be needed 
until the leaves appear, and an excess must be avoided. 
A layer of soil at the bottom of the box or propagating 
bed will permit of the cuttings remaining some con- 
siderable time in the sand, or they can be taken out at 
once after rooting, and boxed or potted off. 

Many of our conifers, such as the improved varieties 
of arbor vitie (Fig. 9!)), retinosporas, junipers and 




CUTTINGS. 290 

utlions, arc readily ])ru|)agate(l I'roiii cuttings of the 
ripened wood made in the winter. If they are in any 
way tender, it will be best to collect the wood in the 
fall and i)ack it away in moist sphagnum in a cool cel- 
lar, until the cuttings can be made up. In a general 
way, they are made in about the same way as soft cut- 
tings, but are rooted and cared for more as the short, 
hard cuttings. In the spring they are planted out in 
nursery rows. 

Long cuttings are from six to eleven inches long, 
with a bud at the bottom and another about one inch 
from the upper end (Fig. 100). It will be of advantage 
if a little of the bark is removed near the base, as was 
recommended for the short cuttings. These cuttings 
should be made in the fall, and packed away in a cool 
cellar or buried in some well drained spot out of doors. 
It is generally customary to place them in bundles with 




FIG. 100. LONG CUTTING OF GRAPE. 

the butts up and cover with about two inches of soil, 
over which enough straw or other rubbish is placed to 
keep out the frost. As soon as severe freezing weather 
is over, the mulch should be removed, and when they 
have callused the cuttings should be planted in drills 
twelve to fifteen inches apart, and one to two inches in 
the rows, with the buds just covered. This is a cheap 
way of propagating grai)es, currants, gooseberries, wil- 
lows, poplars, and many shrubs and vines. 

HALF-HARD CUTTINGS. 

Intermediate between the hard and soft cuttings are 
those sometimes called ^'half-hard," in which the woody 
fibers have begun to form. Such plants as the rose, and 
many of the shrubs, when used in a soft state, are likely 



300 GREEKnOUSE MAXAGKMEXT. 

to decay in Hio cutting bed, and with tlicni ;i soniewliat 
firm condition of the wood is desirabk'. They are made 
in about the same way as the soft cuttings and require 
the same care. Witli many of the shrubs, it is a good 
plan to secure a heel of the old wood, if i)ossible, at the 
base of the cuttings. 

LEAF CUTTINGS. 

Several plants are most readily grown from what are 
known as leaf cuttings, among the plants propagated in 
this way are the rex begonias, gloxinias, and bryo- 
phyllum. If a leaf of bryophyllum be placed on a cut- 
ting bed, the buds along the mai'gin will develop and 
send out stems and roots. The small plants can then 
be detached and p<itted. A rex [begonia leaf can be 
made to develop buds from any of the larger veins. 
The leaves may be cut into strips of a fan shape an inch 
or so in width, severing as many of the main ribs as 
])ossible, and by inserting them edgewise in the cutting 
bed, small plants will soon form. Another way is to 
place the entire leaf upon the surface of the bed, sever- 
ing the larger veins at intervals of two inclies, and either 
])egaing them down, or sprinkling a little sand over them. 
'J'he gh)xinia may be grown as above, or the entire leaf 
may be nsed as a cutting by inserting the end of the 
petiole in the sand. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

PROPAGATION^ BY LAYERING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 

Layers differ from cuttings oidy in being rooted 
while still attached to the plant. Many of the soft 
wooded i)lants that have long, slender branches can l»e 
readily rooted by pegging them down uijoii a ])r()i)a- 



rjl(AFTIN(J. :]{)! 

gating l)(j(l and covering the nodes with sand. Most of 
tlie climbing and trailing vines start readily in this way. 
The layering of hard wooded plants can be hastened by 
removing a ring of bark, or making a tongue upon the 
branch at the point where the roots are desired. The 
tongue should be an inch or a little more in length, 
])ointing towards the main phint, and include something- 
less than half the thickness of the stem, and. may be on 
either the upper or the under side, the former being per- 
haps preferable, as there will be less danger of the break- 
ing of the stem. 

The old method of layering stems that were too stiff 
to bend down was to fasten a flovver pot filled with sandy 
soil about them, but while this method is now somewhat 
used, a better way is to bind green sphagnum about the 
stem, after having partially girdled it, or pierced it to 
the center in a number of places with a knife. If the 
sphagnum is thoroughly moistened when bound on, and 
is frequently watered, roots will soon be sent out. It is 
a good plan to fasten around the sphagnum a strip of 
cloth, in such a way as to form a sort of saucer and 
thus prevent the water from running off. When a sufti- 
cient number of roots have formed, the layers should be 
cut off, and, after any loose sphagnum has been shaken 
off, carefully potted. Until the plant has established 
itself in the soil, it should be kept in a propagating case, 
oi- in a small room where the air can be kept moist, and 
all drafts of air avoided. Frequent sprinkling of the 
foliage will also be desirable. 

GRAFTIJ^G. 

A graft differs from a cutting mainly in forming a 
callus and, after thus joining itself to another plant, 
taking up its food through the roots of the host (the 
stock) rather than through roots which it formed for 
itself. This method of multiplying plants is practiced 



802 



OREEKHOURE MANAGEMENT. 



with many that cannot be readily grown from cuttings 
or layers, and for which seed cannot be nsed, either 
beoause they cannot be readily obtained, or because they 
do not reproduce the desired varieties. 

Grafting is performed just as the growth of the 
stock is beginning, and while the cion is still dormant. 

The cions are made from 
the last season's growth, and 
are from three to four inches 
long, with a bud near the 
upper end. If in the right 
condition, for success ni 
grafting we only need to 
bind the cion upon the stock 
in such a way that the cam- 
bium of one will at some 
point be in contact with 
that of the other, and cover 
the cut surface so that they 
will not suffer from evap- 
oration. 

The more common kinds 




FIG. 101. TONGUE OR WHIP 
GRAFTING, 



of grafting are, first, the 
splice, in which, as the name 
'^ indicates, the stock and cion 
(which should be of about 
the same size) are cut at 
their ends with a long bevel, and are bound firmly 
together ; second, the tongue or whip graft (Fig. 101), 
which differs from the splice only in having the ends so 
split as to form tongues, and they are then put together 
so that the tongues of one will be in the split in the 
other, and bound in place ; third, the cleft graft, which 
is used upon large stocks, by inserting a cion with its 
lower end cut wedge shape, into a cleft in the middle of 
the top of the stock, which has been cut off at right 



GRAFTING. 



:}03 



angles, so tliat the bjirk at the outer edge of the cioii 
will be in contact with the bark of the stock ; if the 
stock is large, cions may be inserted upon both edges 
(Fig. 102). 

For greenhouse work, the method known as side 
o-rafting (Fig. lOo) is especially valuable. The stock is 
prepared by making a slanting downward cut about an 
inch long in the side of the stock ; it should penetrate 
far enough towards the lower end to separate the cam- 
bium layer of wood. The cion should be cut about the 

same as for a cleft 
graft, except that 
the wedge should be 
about one-half lon- 
ger on the inner 
side than on the 
outer. When pushed 
into place the tongue 
on the stock should 
cover the end of the 
cion and hold it in 
place. A modified 
form of this method 
of side grafting is 
known as veneer 
grafting, and while 
it is perhaps more likely to give a perfect union, it neces- 
sitates holding the cion in place while tying it. The 
cuts upon the stock are made just as in ordinary whip 
grafting, but the tongue is cut with a slanting stroke, 
so tliat it is only about one-fourth of an inch, or slightly 
less, in length. The lower end of the cion is cut oif at 
an angle of 45 degrees, and the bark and a little of the 
cambium are removed for about one incli at the end of 
the longer side of the cion. Tlie cion is tlien placed 
against the stock so tliat the tongue ui)on the stock will 




¥in. 102. CLEFT GRAFTING. 



304 



GKEEXHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



cover the end of the cioii, aiul it is bound in place. 
Either of these methods of side grafting will be found 
particularly desirable for grafting the choice varieties 
of ornamental trees, both evergreen and deciduous. 
If the stocks are in ])ots they can be given a rest during 
the early winter and then started into growth so that 
they can be worked in January and February. 

Many propagators have found difficulty in the dry- 
ing out of the cions of conifers before tiie callus forms, 

but if they are placed on 
their sides upon a shallow 
bed of wet sphagnum, 
where they will have a 
little bottom heat, and 
the i)ots and grafts are 
then covered with the 
same material, the mois- 
ture will be retained and 
the failures will be very 
few. The same course 
can be pursued to ad- 
vantage with choice de- 
ciduous trees. The stocks 
should be cut back to 
Kir.. 103. sii>K GHAFTiNo. ^Qy^^^ cxtcnt at tlic tiuic 

of orafting and as soon as orowth has commenced the 
remaining portion nuiy be cut away. Many other kinds 
of grafting have been practiced at various times and by 
ditferent propagators, but none produce better results 
than the methods here described. 

In all cases except when large stocks are cleft grafted 
it will be necessary to wrap the graft with wax string, 
ral!ia, or yarn, in order to bind the cion and stock firmly 
together. Care should also be taken that all cuts are 
smooth and true, and a sharp knife with an even bevel 
from the back to the eda^e of the blade sliould be used. 





GRAFTINCJ WAX. :>(»:) 



GHAFTIXd WAX. 



AVlioii the grai'L is miidc u})on ;i stock iit a point 
below the level of the soil, there will be no necessity of 
covering the cut surfaces with any other material, as 
t he moist soil will answer the i)urpose. Whenever the graft 
is made at a point where it will not be covered by the 
soil, some preparation should be used to prevent the 
evaporation of water from the cut surfaces. For this 
l)urpose, nothing is better than grafting wax. There 
are many formulas for this mastic, most of which con- 
tain varying proportions of resin, beeswax and tallow, or 
linseed oil. As a cold wax to be used with the hands, a 
good proportion is, four parts resin, two parts beeswax 
and one part of tallow or linseed oil. After melting, it 
should bo poured into water and left to cool until it can 
be held in the hands, Avhich should be well oiled. It 
should then be pulled, the same as candy, until it takes 
on a light yellow color, after which it can be made into 
sticks of convenient size for use. This will be found of 
the right consistency for use in a warm room, or in warm 
Avoather outside. For use out of doors in cold weather, 
the wax should have one part less of resin (three ]iarts 
resin, two of beeswax and one of tallow) and should bo 
well worked before it is taken out. 

As a thin mastic, to be ai)})lied with a brush, or the 
fingers, some of the alcoholic waxes may be used. They 
contain al)out 10 parts white resin, and one part beeswax 
(oi- one jxirt tallow) molted together ; after removing 
from the fire and partially cooling, stir in enough alco- 
hol to give the right consistency. Keep in a tight bot- 
tle to prevent evaporation. 

BUDDING. 

Propagation by means of buds is only a modification 
of that by grafting, and in fact it is often called bud- 
grafting, or shield grafting. It consists in the insertion 
20 



;)(><) 



GREEN HOUSE M A XAG EMENT. 



of ;i piece of l)Mrk, t'ontaiiiiiiu- ;i hiul, iiiuler (he baiK (»!' 
another phint of the same or a ek>sely ivhited species. 
The plant npon whicli the bud is placed is known as 
the stock and it should be in a oi-owing condition, so 
that the hark will lift readily. The hud should be dor- 
mant, tirni and well developed. In preparing tlie cion. 




i-.<«^iA^Jp^^Ky^ 



FIG. i(H. BrnnixG. 



the leaves should be cut olf about three-eighths of an inch 
from the bud, as shown in the illustration (Fig. 104). 

In the o})en ground, budding is generally performed 
toward the end of the ]>eriod of growth, the buds being 
those that have developed that season, but in the green- 



BUDDING. 30t 

house ifc is done in tlie winter or early in the spring. 
The stocks are ripened" off, and given a rest until Jan- 
uary, when they are brought into growth and, as soon 
as tlie bark will slip, the budding is performed, using 
buds that have been kept dormant. A ^^ T" shaped cut 
is made in the bark, generally as near the collar as possi- 
ble, and tlie corners are lifted up so as to permit the 
insertion of the bud. In removing the bud from the 
cion, the cut is started about half an incli below the bud 
and is continued U2)ward so as to take off a thin shaving 
of the wood until it is about half an inch above the bud, 
where the strip is cut off. The lower edge of the bark is 
inserted beneath tlie bark of the stock, and the bud is 
pushed down as far as it Avill readily go. For many 
plants it is fully as well, or'fjetter, to remove the shaving 
o:^ wood from the bud before placing it in the stock. If, 
however, it cannot be done without injuring the bud, 
the wood should not be removed. 

It should then be wrapped with raffia so as to press 
the bark of the stock firmly down around the bud. As 
a rule, two or three turns below and two above the bud 
Avill be sufficient ; care should be taken in Avrapping not 
to cover the bud, which should be in sight between the 
edges of the bark. A portion of the top of the stock 
should now be cut off, to check the growth and promote 
a union with the bud, and as soon as the bud has formed 
leaves of its own, the remainder of the stock should be 
cut away. While almost any form of knife can be used 
for budding if it is sharp, the regular budding knives 
have thin blades and rounded points. Unless it has at 
the end of the handle a piece of ivory to be used in lift- 
ing the bark of the stock, the point of the blade can 
be arranged to serve for this purpose, by slightly 
rounding it. 



CHAPTEE XXV. 

INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. 

Few of our greeiiliouse })laiits are free from the 
attack of insects, and many of them are greatly injured 
by i)arasitic fungi, so that constant watchfulness is 
necessary if they are to he kept in a healthy condition. 
In this chapter we shall describe some of those that are 
most troublesome, and give remedies for their destruction. 
It should be mentioned, however, that if proper care is 
oiven to the selection of the stock fiom which the plains 
are propagated, and if attention is ])aid to providing 
them Avith suitable soil, a congenial temperature and the 
necessary amount of water and fresh air, the plants will 
not only be more likely to escape attack, but will be 
nuu'li less injured if the insects and diseases appear. 

It Avill be found that the fungicides are for the most 
part intended for use as preventives rather than cures, 
and to be etl'ectual will need to be applied before the dis- 
ease has any hold upOn the plants. The same thing 
is true with many of the insecticides, to the extent that 
they are most eifective before the insects have reached 
their full develoi)nuMit. Another reason for the early 
application of the remedies against both insects and dis- 
eases is that tliey multiply very rapidly and if not checked 
at the start they may propagate and become so numerous 
that much luirm nuiy he done. 

In making a choice of insecticides, we should be 
guided by the nature of tlie insect for which it is to he 
used. Thus against many insects that take their foml 
by biting otf and chewing the leaves, the arsenites, sucli 

308 



THE APHIS. 



300 



as Paris green and London purple, will be i'uund effieieiit, 
while for tlie sueking insects, which are more trouble- 
some in the greenhouse, we shall need to rely upon kero- 
sene emulsion, tobacco, wliale-oi] soap, pyrethruni and 
other remedies that act upon the exterior, or the breath- 
ing apparatus of the insects. 

THE APHIS. 

This insect and its allies embrace a great variety of 
forms, all of which may be included under the ccmimon 
name of plant lice or ''fly." While most of them are of 
a green color, some forms, sncli as clirysanthemiim apliis, 
are black in color, and in some cases 
we find a blue apliis upon the roots 
of plants. They have long, slender 
antennae or feelers, a small head, a 
full, round thorax or chest, and gen- 
erally a very large, i-ound abdomen. 
From near the end of the abdomen, 
two tubes project, from which the so- 
called honeydew exudes (Fig. 105). 
During the early part of the season, 
the female aphides give birth to liv- 
ing female young ; these pro|)agate 
very rapidly until, asfall ap|>roaches, 
when eight or ten broods have been produced, both 
males and females appear. This brood, only, has wings 
(Fig. 106). The eggs produced as a result of pairing 
serve to carry tlie species over winter. It has been esti- 
mated that from a single individual a quintillion could 
develop in one season. 

Aphides seem to thrive, in particular, upon i)lants in 
partial shade and poor ventilation. The best way of 
destroying them is by means of tobacco smoke, extract, 
or tea. All of these should Ix; used upon the first 
appearance of the aphides, as, if ihey arc allowed to reach 




FIf;. 1(»5. WINGLESS 
FEMALE APHIS. 



310 GUEEK^HOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

full size, they arc hard to destroy. As a preventive, 
greenhouses should be fumigated once or twice a week if 
insects are troublesome. Kerosene emulsion, and 
bubach, either as a powder or in water, are also quite 
effectual. The black chrysanthemum aphides are even 
more difficult to destroy than the green fly, and tobacco 
will have but little effect, if they once get their growth ; 
the remedies last given will, however, be found effectual. 
The black aphis of the violet is quite troublesome 
in some sections, but can be readily destroyed with hy- 




FIG, 106. WINGED MALE APHIS. 

drocyanic acid gas, as can the gall fly which attacks the 
violet leaves. 

The blue aphis sometimes appears upon the roots of 
plants that have in some way been stunted, particularly 
if they have been kept unduly dry. The plants should 
be shaken out, placed in whale- oil soap solution, and 
repotted in fresh soil. 

PLANT BUGS. 

When plants are housed in the fall some of the in- 
sects that have been working upon them out of doors 
may be housed with them. Among the most common 
are the Yellow-lined plant bug and the Tarnished plant 
bug. They feed upon a number of plants and some- 



INSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. 



311 



times do much liarm by sncking the sap from the buds 
and tender shoots. To destroy them, use kerosene emul- 
sion upon pUmts that will stand it, or in its place spray 
with whale-oil soap solution, or fir-tree oil. 

ALEYRODES {White Flies). 

Allied to tlie aphides are the Aleyrodes or ^^white 
flics," as they are usually called, which sometimes appear 
in large numbers in the greenhouse and do considerable 
injury. The pei'fect insects are winged in both sexes, 
but instead of being vertical, as in the aphis, their wings 
are outspread. In the larv^ and pupae, there is a strong 
resemblance to young scale insects, and they injure the 
leaves by puncturing them and sucking the sap. The 
eggs can often be found in large numbers on the under- 
side of the leaves. Soap is not entirely effectual, and it 
will be better to rely upon kerosene emulsion and simi- 
lar remedies. 

fuller's rose BEETLE (Avamigus FulIetH). 
A few years ago great harm was done to roses in 
greenhouses by Fuller's Eose beetle (Fig. 107, a), which 
was often spoken of as "the rose bug." The mature 






FIG. 107. FULLKR'S ROSE r.KKTI.E. 

a, jwluU ; h, larva ; c, i)iii)a. 



insect is about half an inch in length, :ind of a gray 
color. It conceals itself upon tiic stem or under the 
leaves, from Avliich it eats semi-circular pieces, and when 



312 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

its work is noticed, the beetles sliould be bunted and 
destroyed ; in tbis Avay tbey can generally be lield in 
cbeck. Tbe beetles deposit tbeir eggs on tbe stems near 
the ground, and the larvae pass down and feed on tbe 
roots, where they may become so numerous as to destroy 
the i)hints. Tlie liberal use of wood ashes will do mucli 
to hold them in cbeck, but the plants should be taken 
out and burned, the soil removed and the benches thor- 
oughly whitewashed, if they become very numerous. 

RED SPIDER (Tetrariychus telarius Linn.) 

Few insects seem to have so little choice in their 
liost plants as the red spider (Fig. 108), as they not only 
jittack plants in the greenhouse and garden, but also in 
the field and forest. They are very minute, being rathei 
less than one-twentieth of an inch in 
length, and vary in color from green and 
yellow while immature, to dark red in 
their adult form, with small greenish 
spots upon their sides. 

The red spider spins a fine web upon 
the leaves of plants, under the protection 
»^ of which they feed. They have stouc 

FIG. 108. j'*-^^^ ^^^' niandibles, by means of which 

RED SPIDER. ^|j^,y ^Q^y j^^vay tlie cuticle of the leaves, 
and also a barbed sucking apparatus, which is used to 
take the food from the leaves. Numbers of these insects 
upon a leaf, sucking out its juices, cause it to turn yellow 
and finally to drop from the plant. The first sign of the 
Avorking of this insect is in the taking on by the leaves 
of a light green color, and the appearance of minute 
yellowish spots. 

This insect thrives in a hot, dry atmosphere, and 
its appearance can generally be i)re vented if the houses 
are properly ventilated and syringed. If the spider does 
appear, steps should at onee be taken to destroy it. If 




INSECTS OF THE GKEEXHOUSE. 313 

the veutihitors arc kt'i)t closed for awhile on bright 
luoriiiugs and the walks and jilants thoroughly syringed, 
the conditions will be unfavorable to the red spider and 
the numbers can in this way be reduced. When the 
warm days of spring and summer come on, a similar 
treatment in the afternoon is often advisable. Another 
remedy that is entirely effectual and quite easy to use 
is evaporated sulphur. If this is a])plied thoroughly 
once or twice, it will rid the plants from these pests. 

THE THRIPS. 

The insects grouped under tliis name, although 
quite small in size, are often tlie source of considerable 
trouble in the greenhouse, as well as upon 
fruits and grains. They have long, slender 
bodies (Fig. 109) and generally four wings; 
these are also long and narrow and of nearly 
equal size and shape, with a fine hair-like 
fringe around their edges. In most cases the 
wings are without veins, except, perhaps, one 
or two longitudinal midribs. The antennae 
are long and slender, with generally from 
seven to nine joints. In their mouth i)arts 
they resemble both the true bugs and the Orthoptera, or 
grasshopper group, as they are adapted for both biting 
and sucking. They resemble the adult in both the lar- 
val and pu2)al forms, and when full grown they are 
slightly less than one-tenth of an inch in length. They 
are sometimes light yellow, but are generally l)rown or 
black, with the extremity of the abdomen in some cases 
bright red. The antennae and legs are usually light 
colored ; as larvae and pupa3 most of the forms are of a 
yellowish-white. 

Thri])s do considerable injury in the greenhouse, as 
they eat holes in the leaves and Howers and suck the 
juices. They are es[>eeially injurious to the rose^, car- 




oU 



GKEEXJ10Lt?E MAXAUEMEXT. 



nation, lily jind azalea. As a remedy, the liose should be 
used freely on bright da3s, and if this does not suffice, 
it is well to make free use of whale-oil soap, kerosene 
emulsion, or evaporated sulphur. The vapor of tobacco 
can also be used with good effect, as can Paris, green. 
When they have become imbedded in the flowers, the 
buds should be })icked off and burned. HeUofhrlps 
hivmorrlioidis, Bowd, is sometimes quite troublesome 
upon crotons, and Coleoflwips irifaf<ciata, Fitch, is 
another troublesome greenhouse species. 

SCALE IXSECTS. 

Altiiongh at flrst these insects have but little resem- 
blance to the aphides to wliicli they are closely related, 
a careful com})arison of the different organs will show 
that in many important particulars the resemblance is 
({uite marked. 

The simplest forms of these insects are the mealy 
bugs (Fig. 110), so-called from the fact that they cover 

themselves with a white cottony 

substance. The female mealy 

^^ A ur V bug, one of the most common of 

which is Dactylopius ado)ddum 
(Linn.) Signoret, does not change 
its form, and except in size is 
much the same in ap})earance at 
all stages. AVhen about to lay its 
eggs, it attaches itself by means of 
its beak to the surface of a leaf, 
or stem, secretes a mass of long, 
cotton V, tuft-like particles of wax 
around the tip of the abdomen, 
beneath which the eggs are deposited. In addition to 
this, the antenna?, legs and each segment of the body 
have sliorter appen<^.ages. From each lateral segment 
they at)pear as short bristles, while those at the rear end 




FIU. 110. :>1KAIA" ru'u. 



INSECTS OF THE ORKENHOUSE. 315 

of the body are considerably elongated, often being as 
long as the body itself. The male undergoes a transfor- 
mation, and covers itself with a thick cottony mass. It 
is of a brown color, with long grayish wings. 

Another form, known as the Destructive mealy bug 
{Dactylopius de.striictor), of a yellowish-brown color, 
with seventeen short, stout, lateral appendages upon 
each side of its flattened body, with a very thin waxy 
covering. This form has been particularly destructive to 
orange trees. The form known as D. lungifilis differs 
])rincipally in having longer appendages, there being two 
in particular ujion each side of the rear end of the 
abdomen that are as long as the entire body. 

All of these forms of mealy bugs thrive in close, hot 
and dry air, and i)articularly like to conceal themselves 
in a corner or in a thick tangle of vines. The conditions 
that favor tlieir development should be avoided, and 
where the plants can be reached a free use of the hose 
with a powerful spray will often blow them off from 
the leaves. J^erosene emulsion, where it can be brought 
in contact with the mealy bugs, is also a powerful insec- 
ticide, as is also fir tree oil and other commercial com- 
pounds. On many stoA^e plants, with large delicate 
leaves, the use of a stiff brush and dilute kerosene emul- 
sion, or whale-oil soap, is preferable. 

The genus Aspidiotus, to which a large number of 
true scale insects belong, differs in lacking, in most spe- 
cies, the waxy covering. They are of a yellowish or 
brownish color. At first the larvae are active, but soon they 
form a scale and fix themselves; after molting a number of 
times tliey reach full size, when they are covered with a 
thick, firm shell. Eggs are now deposited and, on hatch- 
ing, the second brood starts on the road to development. 
In some cases there are as many as five broods a year. 

Closely related to Aspidiotus, and often classed with 
it, are such other genera as IMaspis, Cliionaspts, Mytila' 



31(i CKEEXIIOrSK iMANAGEMEXT. 

spis^ Lecaniimi, and others which differ principally in the 
shape, or the markings of the scale. They are all suck- 
ing insects and mnst be killed by the use of kerosene 
emulsion and similar remedies. Vsing hydrocyanic acid 
gas is among the most effective methods of treating 
them, '^rhe males are nearly all winged, but the fe- 
males have but little power of locomotion, being wing- 
less and with bat poorly developed legs. While often 
found upon plants that seem in perfect health, as a 
rnle, weak, unhealthy plants are most likely to be at- 
tacked, and are most injured by them. 

SLUGS, SNAILS AND SOW BUGS. 

The damage done by the above-named animals is 
often very great, especially by the slugs, which seem to 
delight in eating off young seedlings. In modern well- 
built houses they are far less tronblesome than in the 
old style of houses, that are generally damp, dark and 
with more or less of rotting wood. If flats, bits of board 
and other rubbish are not allowed to lie around under 
the benches, there will be little danger of their appear- 
ance in houses that are well lighted and properly venti- 
lated. Neatness, then, should always be used as a preven- 
tive. If they make their appearance, they can often be 
held in check by si)rinkling air-slaked lime over as well 
as under the benches. This will help both in drying u}) 
the surplus moisture and by its caustic action destroy or 
drive away the slugs and similar animals, ^^^raps" are 
also quite useful, as, by placing cabbage or lettuce leaves 
where they are numerous, the slugs and sow bugs will 
collect beneath them and if they are sprinkled with Paris 
green many of them will be killed. Sweetened bran also 
has an attraction, particularly for the slugs, and the 
addition of Paris green will soon clean them out. Bits 
of carrot poisoned with some arsenite are also good traps 
for sow bugs. 



IKSECTS OF THE GREENHOUSE. 31? 

While we should always endeavor to make the sur- 
rouiuiiiigs uiieongenial to them by keei)iiig all rubbish and 
litter picked up, if they do make their appearance they 
can readily be brought under control by any of the 
methods given. What are commonly known as "Thou- 
sand Legged Worms" are often found with the above. 
They are Myriapods, and Julus vij-gatus is among 
the most common species. They feed, as a rule, upon 
decaying matter, but sometimes attack the roots, bulbs 
and fleshy stems of plants. They can generally be de 
stroyed if baited with slices of poisoned vegetables. 

EEL WORMS. 

Florists have often found what they called "root 
galls" upon the roots of roses and other plants, but have 
not known what the real cause w^as. They are often due 
to the workings in the root of a microscopic worm called 
from its appearance an "eel worm." They luxuriate in 
warm, moist surroundings, and a rose house, especially 
if kept unnecessarily warm, and if the beds are over- 
watered, gives them the very conditions they prefer. 
In filling the beds, care should be taken that fresh soil is 
obtained, and the roots of the rose and other plants 
should be examined, to ascertain that they are free from 
galls. If they once get into a bed they will increase 
rapidly and the plants will take on an unhealthy 
appearance. 

No satisfactory remedy is known, although air- 
slaked lime and kainit sprinkled over and worked into 
the beds have been used with fair success in some places. 
Care should be taken in applying kainit, but one pound 
per one hundred square feet can be used with safety upon 
roses. Frost is also valuable as a natural enemy of the eel 
worm. Various other plants, including the violet, 
tomato and carnation, are often seriously troubled by 
this pest. 



;31S GREENHOUSE MAi^AGEMENT. 

MUSHROOM ENEMIES AND DISEASES. 

The mushroom grower does not find it all smooth 
sailing, as his crops are attacked by a luimber of insects 
and other enemies, against many of which he has no 
remedy except to give the houses a scrupulous cleaning 
each summer. Little attention has ])een given to the 
scientific study of the enemies of this crop, and many 
may exist of which we have no knowledge. Most of the 
pests of wliicli we know injure the mushrooms by eat- 
ing holes in, or biting off small pieces from, the tender 
caps ; among these are the sow bugs or wood lice, slugs, 
mice and otlier vermin. 

One of the most troublesome of these pests is the 
mushroom maggot. It is about one-fourth of an incli 
long, and is the larval form of a fly. It burrows through 
the stems and caps of tender buttons, and in the full- 
sized mushrooms the bi'own lines running through the 
tissues are distinctly seen. The maggots appear in 
April, and make it impossible to grow the ordinary 
mushroom in the summer. It also attacks the new 
mushroom {Agaricus rufescens), but from tlie rapid 
growth of this species much less injury is done. If one 
has a cave or cool cellai", they can be grown later in the 
season than if the beds are in a warm place, but it is 
even then about impossible to escape their attack be- 
tween April and October. No i-emedy that is now known 
will destroy them ; insect powder, kainit, salt and other 
insecticides seem to have no effect upon them. 

The so-called ^'black spot" shows itself as black or 
brown spots or streaks upon the top of the caps ; it is 
also most troublesome during the summer months. The 
diseased appearance is caused by minute eel worms which 
enter the plants while they are quite small, and which 
generally infect all in one chimp. They are most 
troublesome in old beds and seldom, if ever, appear in 
properly made new ones. As soon as they are through 



INSECTS OF THE GKEENHOUSE. ;M 

bearing, the old 1)cdH should he thi-owuoul, and new 
ones made entirely from fresh materials. If the worms 
have been present, the walls and floor should be thor- 
oughly whitewashed, and all decaying matter and dis- 
eased mushrooms should be removed at orce. By the 
free use of lime and salt, the green mold in which they 
multiply can be kept down. Boiling water is also 
recommended for tliis purpose, to be applied to the 
walls, floors, boards, and sparingly to the surface of the 
beds, before the mushrooms appear. 

One of the most common and troublesome diseases 
of the mushroom is known as '^fogging off." It, how- 
ever, seems to be a secondary trouble, as it as a rule only 
attacks mushrooms that have been injured in some way. 
If the bed is too wet, or too dry, or if the surface is dis- 
turbed in such a way as to loosen the young mushrooms, 
they will fog off, so that the disease seems to partake of 
a fungous as well as of a bacterial nature. 

The so-called "flock" is even more to be dreaded. 
It is caused by one or more fungi that attack the gills of 
the mushrooms. They become thick and hard, and are 
often distorted. The conditions that favor the devel- 
opment of the disease are not understood and the only 
known treatment is to destroy the spawn upon which a 
diseased mushroom appears. 

In growing mushrooms, much can be done to ward 
off the attacks of these various diseases and insects by 
keeping the house clean and free from litter and rubbish ; 
the beds should be removed as soon as through bearing, 
and in the new beds only fresh material should be used. 

If the atmosphere is too dry, mushrooms are some- 
times inju]-ed by a species of mite, closely related to the 
"red spider," but as they are only troublesome under 
the above conditions, the way to prevent their ap^iear- 
ance and of freeing the beds of their presence will be at 
once apparent. 



;};>() nREENTTOlSK M A N .UJEM F.XT. 

FUMKJVTION Willi II Y I > l;(M ' Y A N !< ' ATM) (iAK. 

This is one of tlic most ('ITcdiNC luclhods of (Icsli'oy- 
iiic^ insects in (lie greenliouso and ollici- places vvlici'c llic 
air can l)e oonliiied, ])iit it should bo \\^v(\ wili> the great- 
est caution, as tlie fumes are fatal to all animal life. 
Kvor/ ])i-eeaution sliould be taken auainst the })ossibility 
of anyone entering- the house wlu're the <^as lias l)een 
used, until it has been dissipated. 

The gas treatment, has for several years been used 
for scale insects in California, but it was not until ISDO 
that it was used to any extent in gi-eenliouses. It was 
then tried experimentally, by Professor (Jalloway and liis 
assistants of the Cniled States Department of Agricul- 
ture, with very satisfactory results, as it cheaply ami 
elt'ectually destroyed all the insects in the houses, iiudud- 
ing several species that can be etfect ually reached in no 
othei- way, without injury to nu)st- plants. The treatment 
is, as yet, in its e.\j)erimental stage, but it has progressed 
so far that for many plants the amount that can be 
used has been determined, ami methods of producing the 
gas, with the least risk and to secui'c the best results, 
have been I'ouiul. 

The houses should be tight, and so arranged tliat 
the ventilators can be raised without entering ihe house. 
The gas is produced by the action of suli)huric acid upon 
cyanide of potassium in the preseiu-e of water. The 
experiments show that for violets, coleus, many of the 
ferns, Firus dastica, crotons, etc., four ounces of chem- 
ically ])ure (9(S ])er cent) i)otassium cyanide, six ounces 
of commercial sul]dHiric acid, and six ounces of water 
can be used for each 1,000 cubic feet of space. Roses, 
chrysanthemums and tomatoes are injured by this 
amount, and further experiments are recpiired to detcr- 
miiu' the exact (pumtity that can he used with safety. 
It is also well to have a box in which cuttings and small 



FITMTOATTOX. 021 

plants can l)e placed for fmnigation. If this is made to 
contain ten cubic feet, about one dram of the cyanide 
and one and one-lialf drams each of the sulpliuric acid 
and water will be required. 

For nse in a greenhouse, it will be well to wet the 
glass, so as to close as many of the cracks as possible. 
Night should be selected, as the action of lio:ht and the 
usual high temperature of the daytime will increase the 
chance of injury to the plants, and lessen the injury to 
insects. The plants should be on the dry side, and the 
air moderately cool. At intervals of from thirty to 
forty feet, place in the walk a tall two-gallon earthen jar. 
Thus, for a house one hundred feet long, three jars will 
be required, unless it is very narrow, or very wide, when 
the number should be decreased or increased accordingly. 
In each jar place a proportionate part of the water re- 
quired for the house, and then carefully add an equal 
amount of sulphuric acid. Care should be taken not to 
allow any of the acid to come in contact with the cloth- 
ing, or person, jis it is very acrid and will destroy any- 
thing that it touches. 

The amount of cyanide of potassium required for 
each jar should be weighed out and placed in paper bags, 
and just before it is to be used it should be placed inside 
another larger bag, to prevent any danger of the bag 
giving way while preparations are being made. Screw 
eyes are then fastened in the woodwork directly over 
each jar, and through these stout cords are run to the 
end of the house near the door, where they are fastened. 
To the ends over the jars tie the bags of cyanide, so 
that, on the ends of the strings at the door being re- 
leased, they will drop into the jars. When all is ready, 
close the ventilators, pass to the end of the house and 
carefully lower the bags into the jars and close the door. 
If any of the cyanide drops into the acid while in the 
house, hold the breath and get out of the house as soon 
21 



322 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




FUMIGATIOlf. 323 

as possible, as to inhale the gas is fatal. After twenty- 
five minutes, open the houses for at least half an hour, 
but do not enter even then unless obliged to, except 
with caution. At the usual price of pure cyanide of 
potassium, 30 to 35 cents per pound, and of commercial 
sulphuric acid, which can be bought in quantity at 
three or four cents per pound, the cost of fumigating a 
greenhouse will not be more than 12 to 15 cents per 
1000 cubic feet. While it is very useful in destroying 
aphides, it is a particularly valuable remedy against 
insects and mealy bugs. 

One of the first uses to which it was put w^as the 
destruction of white-tailed mealy bugs {Orthezia indgnis) 
upon coleus, which had refused to yield to other reme- 
dies. Its next extensive use was for the black violet 
aphis, in the houses of Mr. W. G. Saltford, Poughkeepsie, 
]N. Y. (Fig. Ill), the results of which, as reported in 
The Florist's Exchange, were very satisfactory. 

The same remedy is also much used upon nursery 
stock that has been dug for shipment. An air-tight 
shed arranged for ventilation is required. While in a 
dormant condition the trees will stand a stronger gas 
than will tender greenhouse plants. One ounce of the 
cyanide of potassium and one and one-half ounces each 
of water and sulphuric acid can be used with safety for 
each one hundred and fifty cubic feet. For the San 
Jose scale a second treatment will be desirable, but one 
application will suffice for all other insects. The same 
care about inhaling the fumes should be used here as in 
a greenhouse. 



CHAPTEE XXYL 

DISEASES OE GREEKHOUSE PLANTS. 
FUKGOUS DISEASES OF THE ROSE. — BLACK SPOT. 

{Actinonema rosm, Fr.). 

This disease, Avliich is the cause of tlie hhick spots 
that are so comniouly seen \\\>(n\ the leaves of moss and 
hybrid roses in wet seasons, frequently invades the green- 
house and causes the leaves of the tea roses to take on an 
unhealthy appearance and finally to drop from the stems. 
Its development here seems to he invited by the same 
conditions as in the oi)en ground. If the bed is i)oorly 
drained, or has been over- watered, a drop 
in the temperature below 50 degrees is 
likely to cause the fungus to appear. The 
"spot" when first seen is of a dark brown 
-color, with an irregular margin (Fig. 
112); it rapidly enlarges and in a short 
time tlie portion of the leaf around the 
spot takes on a sickly yellow color and 
the leaf drops. A magnified section of 
the leaf is seen in Fig. llo. Tlie dark 
bodies (A) are the outer layer of epider- 

FIG 11"* ' 

KosE SPOT. mal cells, the contents of which have been 
changed by the fungus into a dark brown granular sub- 
stance, which can be seen through the transparent 
cuticle of the leaf, and gives it a brown or black a])- 
])earance. The mycelium also penetrates the underlying 
cells and draws its nourishment from them, thus break- 
iuu" down the tissues and causing the surrounding por- 





DISEASES OE GREE^'HOUSE PLANTS. 325 

tions of the leaves to tuke on a l)rowii color. The 
spores of the fungus are developed on the mycelium, 
just beneath the cuticle, and, as this finally bnrsts and. 
rolls back, they appear as at B. When magnified 500 
diameters, the spores are seen to be two-celled (B) and 
oblong in shape. If they fall npon 
a damp rose leaf they will germinate 
and cause another *^spot" to form. 
For the destruction of this fungus, 
a perfect remedy is found in Bor- 
deaux mixture, exce^^t for its giving tl^^;g|gf$i^F^;?,^(i. 
tlie plants a whitewashed appear- M|\%4WV 
ance. The copper carbonate solu- fig. iis. black spot, 

J • • T ££ L ^ J J Section magnified. 

tion IS nearly as enectual and does 
not have this fault. Evaporated sulphur will also keej) 
the disease in check. As in most other cases, prevention 
will be found the best cure, and to effect this have the 
beds well drained, avoid over-watering and maintain a 
regular temperature of from 50 to 00 degrees, according 
to the requirements of the variety. 

POWDERY MILDEW OF THE ROSE [SpJicBrotheca pannostt.) 

This common disease of the rose appears as a mealy 
or powdery covering u})on the young leaves, and if the 
attack is severe they become twisted and distorted, and 
the disease eyen affects the stems. It develops rapidly 
upon the young leaves, its mycelium forming a fine cob- 
web from wliich the spore-bearing stalks are sent up. 
These stalks or hyjihae become constricted and break up 
into oval bodies — the spores, which are so numerous as to 
form a fine jjowder upon the leaves, whence tlie name of 
the fungus. This disease has another form of repro- 
duction, the spores of which are formed in the fall and 
are designed to carry the disease through the winter. 
The spoi-es are in sacs, wliich are themselves enclosed in 
a thick sac known as a theca. The winter spore cover- 



326 gree:nhouse management. 

ing lias for its distinguishing feature short irregular 
threads that project from it. 

Like many other diseases, tliis fungus is seldom 
trouhlesome unless there is some inducing weakness in 
the plants, and an excessive amount of water, an excess of 
nitrogenous matter in the soil and, particularly, cold 
drafts of air upon the plants, will hardly fail to induce 
its appearance. Being entirely superficial in its growth, 
this mildew is easily kept in check. The fumes of sul- 
phur are fatal to it, and it is avcU to always paint the 
heating pipes with a sulphur w^ash ; sulphur evaporated 
by means of an oil stove, or by the heat of the sun, will 
also be easy to use, as by the last method one has only 
to apply the sulphur to the plants with a bellows and 
allow the temperature to run up to 70 degrees before 
opening the ventilators ; in airing the house after giving 
this treatment, it should be done gradually, so as to 
avoid cold drafts. 

ROSE RUST [Plwagmidhim mucronatum. Winter). 

Although this fungus sometimes attacks tea roses, it 
is principally troublesome upon hybrid perpetual and 
other hardy kinds. It first shows as light yellow spots 
on both sides of the leaves, or upon the stems. The 
epidermis is soon ruptured and granular pustules are 
formed. On the leaves these are generally (piite small, 
but as they are very nunienms and frecjuently coalesce, 
tlie leaves are often destroyed. Wlien upon the veins, 
petioles or stems, the spots often extend themselves 
longitudinally and cover a considerable surface. In 
that case the stems and leaves become twisted and 
distorted. 

At first the jiustules are of an orange-yellow color, 
and the spores are spherical or slightly angular in form, 
and are arranged in chains. Each group is surrounded 
by elongated bodies called paraphyses, which form a cup- 



DISEASES OF GREENHOUSE PLAKTS. 327 

shaped cavity in which the spores are formed. This 
constitutes what is known as the aecidio stage of the rust. 
Later in the season the pustules take on a reddish color, 
and spores that are then present are of about the same 
size and shape as the aecidio spores, but they are covered 
with minute spines and are arranged singly upon short 
stalks or basidia. Towards the end of summer, the red- 
dish spots are replaced by minute black bristle-like 
tufts, in which the winter or teleutospores are found. 
These are compound, being separated by cross partitions 
into from five to ten cells, and are borne upon compara- 
tively short stalks, which are thickened toward their 
base. 

The secidiospores and uredospores serve for the 
reproduction of the fungus during the summer. If the 
conditions are favorable, they germinate readily, but if 
kept dry for a few weeks they lose their power. 

It is the function of tlie teleutospores, with their 
thick cell-walls, to carry the fungus through the winter, 
and in the spring they germinate, sending out thickened 
tubes which bear at their ends small globular bodies 
called sporidia, which are light and easily borne about 
by the wind, and thus serve for the dissemination of the 
fungus. If they fall upon rose leaves, they quickly 
germinate, and soon produce new rust spots. 

If the disease appears upon a plant, the affected 
branch should be cut off and burned. By spraying with 
Bordeaux mixture and other copper compounds, the 
spread of the disease can be prevented. The so-called 
Rose Phragmidium (P. speciosum, Fi-ies) is closely allied 
to the above, but differs in confining itself to the stems 
and seldom infecting the leaves. It forms its regular 
black masses of spores late in the season upon the stems. 
These spores (teleutospores) differ from those of the 
lose rust in having long, slender stalks. The spots fre- 
quently surround the stems, thus completely girdling 



328 GKEENHOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 

them. The remedies will be the same as for the rose 
rust. 
aN'THRACNOSe of the rose {Glceos2)orium rosarum). 

Like many other plants, the rose has its anthracnose, 
which sometimes j)roves very troublesome. The spores, 
falling upon the young tender canes, germinate, and 
spreading through the tissues destroy the cells and even 
girdle the canes. The circulation is thus cut off to a 
greater or less extent, and many if not all of the leaves 
drop from the plant. The disease manifests itself at 
the exterior in the form of minute pimples in which the 
sj^ores are formed. They are transferred to other plants 
in water. Other blotches can be found upon the leaves, 
jiarticularly upon those that have fallen upon a damp 
surface. 

The spores readily germinate, and as they are pro- 
duced in great abundance, the disease may, under favora- 
ble conditions, spread very rapidly. The s])read of the 
disease seems to be toward the tijis of the branches, and 
frequently aj)parently healthy shoots appear at the base 
of diseased ones. As soon as the disease appears upon a 
plant, the infected portions should be cut off and burned. 
As the Bordeaux mixture and cop])er compounds are 
fatal to the s})ore development of fungi, the spread of 
the disease can be prevented by thoroughly spraying the 
plants. This disease is closely related to the anthrac- 
nose of the raspberry, and its develo})ment is both 
invited and hastened by such unfavorable conditions as 
poorly drained or exhausted soil. 

FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 
CARNATION RUST. 

This destructive disease ( Uromyces caryophyllinus), 
has long been known in Euroy>e, but although it had 
undoubtedly appeared here previous to that time, its 
nature was not known in this country until the fall of 



FUJs^GOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 



329 



1890, Avbeii the writer received from a Michigan florist 
a number of diseased leaves, witli an inquiry as to the 
nature of the fungus and a remedy for it. The plants 
had been recently received from Massachusetts, and 
recognizing the danger of spreading the disease, he was 
advised to destroy all 
plants that were badly 
infected, and to re- 
move from the others 
all leaves that showed 
any pustules, carefully 
burning both plants 
and leaves, and then 
to spray the remaining 
j)lants with a fungi- 
cide. This fungus is 
closely related to the 
rust of grains and 
grasses, and seems to 
revel upon plants 
grown in poorly ven- 
tilated houses, or that 
have received a check 
in some way, })articu- 
larly if the phmts are 
syringed at such times 
as will allow the water 
to stand on the leaves 
and branches at night. 
It enters the jjlantand 

develops there without fig. 114. < aknatiox rust. 

manifesting its presence, until a pustule is formed just 
beneath the epidermis. The spot takes on a grayish ap- 
pearance, and the nunnbrane soon beconiini;" I'uptured. 
the mass of brow iiisli sjjoi-cs is seen. TIk-n arc in'odiiccd 
in great quantities and apjicar like line, hi'own, dust- 




3 

Mm 



330 



GREENHOUSE MAKAGEMEl^T. 






like particles. The pustules are often an eighth of an 
inch or even more in length, and are of an elliptical, 
oval, or sometimes of a crescent shape, and form on 
both sides of the leaves and even on the stems (Fig. 114). 
The spores are of two kinds, one of which, the 
uredospores (Fig. 115 a), are round or elliptical, and show 
a few scattered spines under the miscroscope. They 
will germinate at once if they fall on a moist surface and 
if the moisture is on a carnation plant, the germ tubes 
will penetrate the epidermis, and work their way among 
the tissues, break down the cells, absorb the juices and, 
having made their growth, develop a new mass of spores, 

thus completing a cycle in per- 
haps two weeks. The other 
spores, known as teleutospores 
(Fig. 115, b), are somewhat 
darker in color than the others, 
and are more oval in shape, be- 
sides lacking the spines found 
upon the uredospores. Some 
varieties seem more subject to 
this disease than others, and 
plants with firm tissues are less 
likely to be attacked than others of the same variety 
with soft watery leaves. As water is required for the 
development of the fungus, syringing should only be 
done on sunny days and in the morning, that the plants 
may dry off before night. In damp weather, the 
ventilation should be thorough, and if moisture stands 
on the plants, the fire heat should be increased. 

To grow plants free from rust, they should be of a 
strong constitution and from a healthy stock. Prefer- 
ably, as stated in the chapter upon carnation culture, 
they should be taken from plants that have not been 
long in flower, and that have not been grown in a high 
temperature. 




FIG. 115. SPOKES OF CAR- 
KATION RUST. 



FUi^GOUS DISEASES OF THE CARN^ATION. 831 

When the cuttings are made, dip them in a solution 
of liver of sulpliur (one ounce to three gallons), and 
root tliem in clean sand at a h)w temperature (48 or 50 
degrees). Before potting off, spray them in the cutting 
bed Avith a solution of copper sulphate, using a fine 
spray that will cover both sides of all tlie leaves. If the 
disease is troublesome, it will be well to repeat the appli- 
cation every two weeks througliout the year, until the 
plants are thrown out. If one's stock has been free from 
rust it will only be necessary to watch it carefully and 
on the first appearance of the pustules to pick off and 
burn the infected leaves and thoroughly spray the plants, 
keeping it up at intervals, as above, until the disease has 
been checked. 

The carnation has a leaf that will withstand the use 
of a much stronger application of copper sulphate than 
most other plants, and while we have kept the disease 
in check with a solution of one part of the copper sul- 
phate in one thousand parts of water, if the disease has 
obtained a firm-hold, it will be well to double tlie strength 
of the solution. 

If the plants are grown on solid benches during the 
summer, and are thus saved the shock of transplanting, 
the chances of the appearance of the disease will be 
lessened. The fungicides can at best only prevent the 
spread of the disease, and if a plant is found to be badly 
diseased, it should be destroyed, and the diseased leaves 
removed from the others as soon as the pustules show. 

SPOT OE BLIGHT OF CARI^ATIOKS. 

{Se2)toria dianthi Desm.) 

Like many of the other fungous diseases of plants, 
the nature of this disease is not generally understood, 
and, although it is becoming quite commonly distributed, 
its presence is not recognized by florists. The spots are 
generally of a circular form, except when upon the edges 



O O ,) 



GREEXHOrSE MANATtEMENT. 



of the leaves, wlieu they arc oblong or semi-circnlar. 
The centers of the spots arc grayish -brown in color, Avith 
margins that have a purplish tinge (Fig. ll(i, a). Upon 
the light portion of the spots, minnte black dots will 
soon appear ; the mycelium of the fuugus has developed 
within the leaf, and these points are 
projections from the flask-shaped 
conceptaclcs in w^hich the spores 
are formed (Fig. IKi, d). An en- 
larged spore case is shown at b and 
the spores themselves are seen at c. 
j"'o The spores are quite slender and, 
enclosed in a viscid substance, ooze 
out thi-ough the opening, to be dis- 
solved in water and scattered to the 
FIG. 116. SPOT DISEASE neighboring plants, or they may be 

OF CAKNATIONS. , , , i^ p - jsi i^ 

taken up by currents oi air alter the 
water has evaporated. The watering of the plants with 
a strong stream of water, through a hose, will be likely 
to scatter the spores, and if they fall in a drop of water 
(m a carnation leaf, they will quickly germinate and 
cause other spots. If the flower stems are affected, the 
growth is likely to be checked and on the leaves the 
effect is to contract and weaken them, the spots turn 
brown and they become bent and twisted (Fig. 117). 

If taken in time, when the disease first appears, the 
application of fungicides will tend to keep it in check. 




ANTiiKACKOSE OF cARXATiONs {Volvfclla diantJii). 

The nature of this disease w\as ])ointed out in 1891, 
by Dr. B. D. Halsted, who thought it to be Colleto- 
trichum dianthi ; the later investigations of Prof. Atkin- 
son, however, would seem to sliow that it can more 
]U'operly be referred to the genus Volutella. It causes a 
ra]nd decay of the affected portions and the warmth and 
damp of the cutting bench seem particularly favorable 



FUNGOT'S DISEASES OF THE CAKNATION. l)^^ 

for its development and s})read, as a spore will germi- 
nate, develop a mycelium and produce a crop of spores 
within three days. 

While particularly injurious to cuttings, it often 
causes serious injury to the growing plants, where it is 
most commonly found upon the lower portions of the 
stems and the clasping hases of the leaves and leaf 
sheaths. The diseased portions shrivel, turn brown and 




FIG. 117. EFFECT OF "SPOT" ON CARNATIONS. 

at length are dotted with black, rosette-like clusters of 
spores (Fig. 118, a) ; these stools owe their color and 
general appearance to the development of a number of 
long, black bristles. Fig. 118, b, shows a section through 
one of these fruit clusters greatly magnified, the spores 
being much shorter than the bristles. The germinating 
spores still more magnified are shown at c. 



334 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



The disease is most troublesome when the plants are 
grown in a poorly drained and over-watered soil, par- 
ticularly if the stems and leaves form a dense mat at the 
base. While the fungus is generally confined to the 
stems and leaves that are upon or close to the damp 
soil, the effect is sometimes seen upon the upper leaves, 




FIG. 118. ANTHRACNOSE OF THE CARNATION. 

6 Spores and bristles. c Spores germinating, 

(a natural size ; b and c greatly magnified.) 

which will have a sickly appearance, and the stems will 
not develop flowers. 

FAIRY RING SPOT OF CARNATIONS. 

(Heterospormm ecliinulatum [Berk.] Cooke). 

This disease was described and figured in the Gar- 
dener's Chronicle for 1870 by Mr. Berkeley, but it has 
only recently been observed in this country. The spores 
appear in concentric rings that develop centrifugally, 



FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARNATION. 



335 



much as does the well-known '^fairy ring." The myce- 
lium developing within the tissues causes them to take 
on a light* yellow color. Just beneath the epidermis, 
dark brown swellings appear upon the mycelium, from 
which the fruiting threads (Fig. 119) are sent out 
through the cuticle. These are produced in great num- 
bers from a single spot and gives it a dark brown appear- 
ance. A single spore (Fig. 120) is produced at the 
extremity of each thread ; these are generally four- 




- ^ 



FIG. 119. FAIRY RING SPOT OF CAR- 
NATION, FRUITING THREADS. 

(Greatly magnified.) 



FIG. 120. SPORES OF FAIRY SPOT. 

b Spores germinating 

(Greatly magnified.) 



celled, but may vary from one to five, and are covered 
w^ith minute spines. Gei*m tubes (Fig. 120, B) may be 
sent out from each cell of the spores. The mycelium 
continues its development and finally forms another set 
of fruiting hyphse, generally in a circle around those 
first produced. In this way the disease can be distin- 
guished from the carnation rust, with which a careless 
observer might confound it. 



336 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




FIG 



CARNA- 



CARNATION LEAF MOLT) (CladospOriKin sp.). 

This disease sliows itself in minute circular spots, per- 
haps one-tenth of an inch in diameter, upon the leaves. 
They may become sufficiently numerous to destroy the 
leaves attacked. At first they are of a gray color and 
bear a dense growth of mold, consisting 
of fruiting threads, upon the extremities 
of which the spores are borne (Fig. 121). 
These fall off and the spots become 
darker in color. The disease is thought 
to be Cladosporium herbarum var. nodo- 
siim, by Prof. Atkinson. 

It is particularly troublesome upon 
plants in poorly drained soil and where 
care is not taken in watering and syring- 
ing. Under proper conditions and when 
the plants are only syringed early in the 
TioN LEAF MOLD. ^>^y ^ thcrc sliould bc uo scrlous trouble 
from the disease, while if it does make its appearance 
the usual fungicides will hold it in check. 

BOTRYTIS OR ROT OF CARNATIONS. 

When the houses are kept quite warm and the soil 
and air are damp, the open- 
ing buds and the petals of 
the expanded flowers soften 
and turn yellow, and soon 
become covered with a slimy 
mold. This is the work of 
a fungus known as Botrytis 
(Fig. 122, A), which devel- 
ops an immense number of 
spores (Fig. 122, B). The ^ 
temperature and moisture pj^ 
should be regulated, all dis- 
eased portions should be destroyed, and the plants 
sprayed with cnpram, or a solution of copper sulphate. 




122 



BOTRYTIS OF CARNA- 
TIONS (-6 magnified). 



FUNGOUS DISEASES OF THE CARXATIOX. 



OOIV 



BACTERI0SI8 OF CAKNATIONS. 

Aside from the rust, no disease of the carnation is 
more to be dreaded. It appears upon the immature 
leaves as small, circular and slightly sunken yellowish- 
white spots; but before the spots appear, by holding the 
leaves up to the light, minute, translucent dots can be 
seen. Sometimes watery pimples form, but at any rate 







FIG. 123, BACTKKIOSIS OF CARNATIONS. 

the tissues affected soon dry out and sink beneath the 
surface of the leaf. The spots enlarge and the leaves 
wither (Fig. 1'23). 

The '' disease " was observed by Prof. Arthur of 
Purdue University in January, 1889, but it was not until 
more than a year later that he was able to announce 
22 



').>S (JRIOIOMIOI'SK MANA(JEMENT. 

vvliJiL Ik' considered (o Ix; 1 he e;iiis('. I'l-om ilic iiicA, ihiit 
\\{' found h.ielci i;i, |)i'es(!iil, il \v;is IJkhi^^IiI, Io he, of a 
hM(;l('ri)iJ nnlnre, ;nid the n;inie " I'jielci-iosis " was 
<f\\v.]] il. 

The Division of l*;dholoo;y of ihc National Dcpart- 
nuuil of Airrieiiltiii'G Jias recently ])i-()ven tliai tlie haote- 
j'ia uvv. hut a sec^ondary cause of the diseases, ;ind that it 
'vill not ;i.f)|)Oui" if tlu! plants are l\e|)t free from the 
attacks of iiphich'S, thi'ips, and oiher insects tlirougli 
whos(! pnnetiires the l)acterial ^crins <(;iin entrance. 

l<M?N(J()rS AND OI'IIMK DISKASIOS OK VIOFilOTH. 

77/*' /<>/ lowing nolcs were kindly prepared Irj/ Prof. Byron 
l>. Haltftcd, of the New Jersey Experiment Station, 
who in an authority on the siiJ>jeet. 

At tlie outset it nuiy l)e siii<l that lliere are more 
enemies lo vioh'ts lh;in most practical f^rowers arc at 
lirst willing; to admil-. Mii(;h has heen published iij)on 
the g(;n('i-jiJ subject in the ilorists' journals Jind ({uite 
uniformly under tiic title of — ^Vh(\ Violet Disease. 
^I'l)er(! ai-e enemies of all sorls jiiid fre(|uently the worst is 
man liims(df. In otliei* words, lack of proper treatment 
of soib of the wjilc^rinjj^ Ciin, of ventihition, of tempera- 
ture, (exposure to^^jises, ('A)\(\ winds, Jind nuiiiy otber things, 
e;iii b(MOi{i,rged with much of I lie l.ick of vigor of the 
phiid-s ;in(l f.'iibire to pi-o(tuee prolil;ibl(! ;imounts of 
bh)(»ms. It is, however, notour ])ui"pos(! to treat of these 
things. M'here are severnl s})(H;ies of fungi that alone, 
or two or moi'(! working toL;(!ther, do much to destroy 
the ei'op. These will be briefly treiited below, and it is 
iioped thiit light, will )»(^ thrown u|)on the obscure sub- 
je(rt that mjiy ])ossibIy ,'issist in the dillicult hibor of 
finding remedies lliat will cheek tlieir ravages. 

TiiM VTOT.KT LKAF SPOT ( ( 'crrospora Violm, Snc(;.). 

MMiis is on(,' of l,he most (!onspi(Mions as well as com- 
mon of tlu! fungous diseases of the violet. As its name 



FUNGOUS DISEASES oi'' Till'] VIOLET. 



IV3Q 




Fid. 124. ViolJ'/r i,I':aI'' srol' ( /'/idfof/ruji'ird h/j /'. II. huractt). 



310 GREE2S"H0USE MANAGEMEJ^-T. 

indicates, it produces spots upon the foliage which at 
first are not larger than the head of a pin, but increase 
in size until a third of a leaf may be included in a single 
spot. As there are other distinct species of fungi that 
produce leaf spots upon the violet foliage, it is necessary 
to place some stress upon the characteristics of the cer- 
cospora spot. 

When the microscope is used upon the spots it is 
seen that the blanched surface of the leaf is covered with 
small tufts or rosettes of irregular brown threads. This 
fnngus produces its spores outside of the infested tissue 
and the s2:>ores are thus in easy reach of any fungicide that 
may be aj^plied to the surface. This Cercospora is closely 
related to the one upon the celery (Cercospora apii,¥v.) 
and no doubt can be controlled in the same way by the 
use of the compounds of copjier. 

VIOLET LEAF SPOT KO. 2 {Phyllosticta ViolcB, Sacc). 

A second form of leaf spot of tiie violet can be dis- 
tinguished by the naked eye. The spot is remarkably 
white and breaks near the margin, which consists of a 
i-ing of a cream color. Very often the central portion of 
the spot has disappeared, leaving the aifected leaf with a 
number of holes. If viewed closely, the thin, white cen- 
tral i)ortion of the spot is seen to contain a number of 
minute specks that are imbedded in the thin substance 
of the dead tissue. The spores, as the moisture dries 
away, are carried by the moving currents of air and fall- 
ing upon healthy leaves produce, shortly, new spots of the 
disease. This fungus needs the same treatment as the 
Cercospora, and as they often grow together upon the 
same leaf, the spraying for the one will answer for the 
other. 

VIOLET LEAF SPOT NO. 3 {Ascorhyta Vioke, Sacc). 
Somewhat like the last described leaf spot is one 
that is caused by a species of Ascochyta. This is quite 



FUJs^GOUS DISEASES OF THE TIOLET. o41 

frequently met with, particularly upon specimens re- 
ceived from Massachusetts. The differences between 
this and the Phyllosticta are chiefly microsco})ic. The 
spores, for examj^le, instead of consisting of one cavity, 
have a cross partition dividing them in two near the 
middle. The spore-bearing vessels (pycnidia) are pale 
l)ink colored and the hole ui)on the free side has a dark 
border. The diseased portion is a less well-defined spot 
than in previous cases, and is more like a brown patch. 

VIOLET ANTHRACNOSE {Glceosporium ViolcB, B. & M.). 
A genuine anthracnose is met with upon the violet. 
This does not produce a spot, but the side of the leaf 
may be attacked and become brown and shrivelled, the 
trouble spreading over the whole leaf in the worst cases. 
When viewed under the microscope the surface of the 
diseased portion shows many patches where the spore? 
are borne upon the surface. The fungus, after running 
in all directions through the tissue of the leaf, concen- 
trates at certain points and there rupturing the skin 
produces large numbers of small spores upon the exposed 
surface. 

A SECOND FORM OF ANTHRACNOSE (Colletotrichum). 

Closely related to the last is a second species of 
anthracnose that belongs to the genus Colletotrichum. 
This causes a deadening of irregular patches in the leaf, 
and, owing to tlie numerous dark, stiff hairs, the affected 
parts may appear almost black. 

There is a bacterial disease that causes the central 
portion (crown) of the plant to decay, and ruin is quickly 
effected. It frecjuently works in connection with tlie 
other fungous diseases and no satisfactory treatment is 
suggested f(n- it. 

But few satisfactory resulfs have bo(^n obtained by 
treating the violets for fungous diseases. Several 
growers have been faithful in a])[)lying the ammoniacal 



342 GREENnOUfcJE M ASSUAGEMENT. 

carbonate of copper mixture, with fair results. But the 
beginning of tlie trouble is often below ground and quite 
out of the reach of fungicides, as shown below. 

THE VIOLET EEL WORMS {Root Galls). 

One of the serious pests of the violet is the eel worm 
or nematode. These are microscopic worms that mul- 
tiply in tlie substance of the violet roots, and cause 
enlargements called galls, that may be very numerous 
and sometimes of considerable size. The worms enter 
the tender roots from the soil and there increase rapidly. 
Their presence seems to poison the tissue and induces an 
abnormal gi'owth, similar to that which takes place upon 
many sorts of leaves when stung by gall flies and other 
insects. Many plants have their roots affected in this 
way, and the same species of nematode probably inhabits 
scores of kinds of plants. 

So far as known, the gall trouble of roses is the 
same as tliat of the violet, and if this be true, it follows 
that the infection may pass from one kind of plant to 
another. It Avould not be well to grow violets in soil 
where roses had been galled, or vice versa. 

There is no remedy for a plant that is badly infested, 
for nothing harmless to the plant can be used to kill the 
worms. The maiu point is to keep the nematodes out 
of the roots. The soil, therefore, should be free from 
them, and this is a difficult matter. The soil could be 
heated to a high temperature and the worms Avould be 
killed. Freezing would accomplish the same end; but 
either of these two extremes is not always possible. Lime 
water is said to kill them. The less manure used, 
the better, so far as the galls are concerned. Violets 
could probably be grown profitably with no manure. 
"With the soil free from the worms, and the plants also, 
there ought to be no trouble in having violets, exempt 
from the nematodes. In setting out the plants, it is 
well to look at the roots and reject all with galls. 



THE BERMUDA LILY DISEASE. 



343 



Underground troubles arc the least readily investi- 
gated, but none the less fatal. If a plant looks pale and 
there is a drying of the edges of the leaf, it is always well 
to look for mischief at the roots. 

THE BERMUDA LILY DISEASE. 

For a number of years florists have been troubled by 
a discjise that has attacked their Easter lilies. While 
Lilium Harruii has been most commonly attacked, it 




FI«. 125. PliANTS AFFECTED BY JAT.Y DISEASE. 

has also appeared on L. longiflovnm and occasionally on 
L. auratum and L. candidum. It shows in the spotting 
of the leaves and of the bulbs themselves, and in the 
dwarfing and distorting of the leaves and flowers. Upon 
the leaves, where they show as yellowish-white sunken 
streaks, the spots are often (juifo numerous. These en- 
large and finally the leaves severely attacked shrivel, and 
dry so that the plant is ruined (Fig. 125). The disease 



344 GREENHOUSE MAXAGEMEJ^^T. 

attacks the bulbs while growing in the field and is com- 
mon not only in Bermuda, but in Holland, France 
and Japan. 

The disease is due to the weakening of the plants by 
the attacks of various mites, fungi and bacteria, and its 
appearance is also undoubtedly induced, and the extent of 
the injury increased, by improper selection and pro])a- 
gation, as well as by the cutting of the flowers, and the 
harvesting of the bulbs before they are matured. In the 
greenhouse, the effect of the disease is increased and per- 
haps caused by the attack of aphides and mites upon the 
leaves and flowers, while the syringing of the plants, so 
that water will remain between the young leaves at night 
may have its effect. From the above, which is the result 
of the investigations of the Department of Agriculture, 
it is evident that the condition of the bulbs at the time 
they are imported will have much to do with the extent 
to which they will be attacked while in the hands of the 
florist. Stunted and unripe bulbs should be avoided, 
and if they show the characteristic spots due to the work 
of the fungi and mites, they should be discarded. 
Before the bulbs are potted, they should be disinfected 
by dipping them into a solution of copper sulphate (one 
to one thousand) or of liver of sulphur (one to two hun- 
dred and fifty), and the mites and aphides should be 
destroyed by using strong tobacco- water or some other 
efficient insecticide. 

In order that a close, firm texture may be secured, 
the chief reliance should be upon chemical manures, 
rather than animal manures, rich in nitrogen. Careful 
attention should be paid to the destruction of mites and 
aphides, and if any of the plants show signs of the dis- 
ease, they should be isolated or at once destroyed, if the 
attack is a severe one. As will be seen from the above, 
the remedies are preventives rather than cures, and the 
most important thing is to secure strong, healthy bulbs. 



OTHSIl DISEASES. 345 

DISEASES OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

This plant is subject to the attack of several forms 
of what are cominoiily called **leaf-spot." In two of 
these forms, which the botanist calls Septoria Ghri/san- 
themi, E. and D., and Oylindro.sjxjriuni Chrysantheini, 
E. and D., the first appearance is as small brown spots, 
which quickly enlarge until they cover considerable areas, 
when the leaves turn yellow and droj). In another form 
{Phyllosticta Chrysanthemi, E. and D.), the spots have 
more of a reddish color and seem quite velvety. If 
there are many of these spots upon a leaf, the portions 
between them turn yellow and the leaves droop. 

The Bordeaux mixture is one of the most effectual 
remedies and if the disease appears when the plants are 
small, it should be used frequently. Although less 
effectual, if the use of a fungicide is necessary after the 
flowers open, cupram, or some of the other solutions, 
should be used instead. Infected leaves should be at 
once ])icked off and burned, and if the plants are badly 
injured it will be best to throw them out at once. Cut- 
tings for a new stock should be selected only from 
healthy plants and should be frequently sprayed. 

The chances of injury from these diseases will be 
gi-eatly lessened, if mineral manui-es, such as wood ashes 
and ground bone, are freely used. Keeping the houses 
cool and well ventilated, and, if the plants are very thick, 
the removal of some of the lower leaves from plants 
growing closely in beds, will aid in keeping off the disease. 

A MIGNONETTE DISEASE [Cevcospora Beseclw), 
In the American Florist for September, 188T, Pro- 
fessor Seymour figured and described a disease of the 
mignonette, which has become quite troublesome in some 
sections. The first sign of the disease is a reddish dis- 
coloration, which spreads over the leaf and is followed 
by the appeanince of small, sunkeii spots with yellowish 



346 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 




borders. The spots (Fig. 120) increase, and running- 
together may destroy the entire leaf. They have a gran- 
ular appearance caused by clusters of fungus threads 

(B) upon which the septate 
spores (C) are borne. The 
disease spreads very rapidly 
and may become quite trouble- 
some. If taken in time, the 
disease may be kept in check 
by the use of the copper com- 
pounds. It will be well to 
remove all diseased portions 
and spray the plants with Bor- 
deaux mixture. 

LEAF BLIGHTS. 

FIG. 120. LEAF BLIGHT OF MIG- -KTn.ivUr all T^lmifs UVO «nh 

>roNETTE. (Vercnspora liesedoe.) INCaiiy all piaUtS ait SUO- 

^'Tl'rea<1s.^,^_Spores. (Band .^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^.^^^ ^f ^^.^^^-^ 

fungi that are known as leaf blights. They belong to 
several species, but are alike in causing the appearance of 
yellow spots upon the leaves, which may spread until 
they assume large proportions, and if they are very 
numerous the leaves may be destroyed. Generally at 
the place where the spot first showed, a dark brown dot 
will later on api)ear ; this is due to the development of 
a large number of spores, by which the disease will be 
scattered. When the spots first show, the leaves attacked 
should at once be removed and burned. Sometimes, 
there are but one or two spots upon large leaves, and it 
will be possible to cut off the pvortion of the leaf upon 
which the spot is situated, but to be effectual a consid- 
erable amount of the leaf should be taken off, as the 
mycelium of the fungus has probably spread to some 
distance beyond the margin of the discolored portion. 
Most of these fungi work within the tissues, and no sur- 
face api)lication Avill stop their spread within the leaf, 
but by applying the Bordeaux mixture, or cupram, we 



DISEASES OF LETTUCE. 34? 

will be able to destrov any spoi-es Ibat fonii on llio out- 
side of tlie leaves, and if tbc entire surface <»f the leaves 
is thus protected, any spoi-es that may come in contact 
with the healthy leaves will be kept from germinating, 
and the spread of the disease will be prevented. 

DISEASES OF LETTUCE. 

If properly handled, thei-e is little danger from the 
attack of any disease, but unless the soil, the temper- 
ature and moisture, are suited to the crop, one or more 
troubles may make their appearance, and greatly injure, 
if they do not entirely destroy it. 

The one most to be feared is commonly known as 
^^Rot." It attacks the under leaves in some cases and in 
others the inner leaves, causing them to rot oif. If, 
when the lettuce is nearly grown, the air is too warm 
and close, especially if a large amount of water has been 
used, the disease is quite likely to appear. Heavy, com- 
pact soil that does not dry out, is also favorable to the 
appearance of the disease. The remedies will be entirely 
preventive and will be merely to correct the conditions 
under which the plants are grown, by using a light, 
sandy soil, made very rich ; keeping the temperature 
under 45 degrees at night for the cabbage varieties, and 
not allowing it to get to 50 for Grand Rapids and similar 
varieties ; giving an abundance of fresh air during the 
day ; and carefully regulating the amount of water sup- 
plied. If the disease has appeared, after coi-recting, so 
far as possible, the conditions that liave brought about 
its appearance, the spores of the disease can be destroyed, 
and its further spread prevented by evaporating sulphur 
in the house, taking care that it does not take fire. 

The fungus that causes the rot is known as Botry- 
tis vulgaris^ and as it can develop in decaying vegetable 
matter, care should l)e taken that the manure is well 
worked into the soil. 



348 GREEKHOUSE MAXAC.EMENT. 

Aiiotlier disease is the lettuce ^'^Fildew." It is seldom 
lioublesonu', except in dark houses, wlieiv the plunts arc 
making littU' or no growtlj, on account ot a cohl, wet soil. 

A third trouble is "Leaf-burn," which causes the 
edges of the leaves to turn brown. This is a common 
trouble with the head varieties, and greatly reduces the 
value of the crop. It is much less likely to appear in 
the variety known as Grand Ixapids than in most 
other sorts. The usual cause of the trouble is growing 
the lettuce at too high a temperature, especially if the 
changes are sudden and extreme. A deficiency of water 
in the soil, especially if the air is hot and dry, will also 
lead to its appearance. In short, it mav be attributed 
to anything that will cause the water to be given off 
from the tissues at the edges of the leaves faster than 
it can be supplied to them. If the soil is light, the 
roots will })enetrate deeply and water will be supplied 
much more readily than it* it is heavy. 

DISEASES OF THE CUCIMBER AND MELON. 

Both of these vines are attacked by a downy mil- 
dew {Plnsnwpdrii Cuhensi-'i, B. and C), which first shows 
in the yellow color of the spots where the fungus is at 
Avork, followed bv the appearance of the frost-like 
l)atches of spores on the underside of the leaves. In the 
case of the cucumber, the s])ores are of a violet color. 
This disease appears when the houses have been cold and 
damp, and unless a radical change can at once be made, 
the chance for a crop will soon be lost. The vines 
should at (mce be treated with Bordeaux mixture, after 
picking off all leaves that are affected and throwing out 
the plants that have been much injured. 

CUCUMBER POWDERY MILDEW. 

The cucumber, when grown under glass, especially 
if the air has been kept too dry. is sometimes attacked 
with a fungus that is thought to l)e Frif,^ij>hp Cicliora- 



ANTHHACKOSE OF THE BEAN. 341J 

cearum, D. 0. It shows on tlic upper side of the leaves 
as small white patches, coniposed of a mass of tine 
threads and spores. Tliis gives it a flour-like appear- 
ance, whence the common name. It also attacks the 
stems and even the fruits. The portions attacked soon 
turn brown, and, if the spots are numerous, the plant is 
soon killed. As a preventive, the temperature and 
moisture in the house should be carefully regulated, but 
as the disease lives upon the outside of tiie plants, it, 
like all powdery mildews, readily yields to treatment. 
Spraying with sulphide of potassium, or cupram, or evap- 
orating sulphur in the house, will destroy it. If the 
disease has appeared in a house, during the summer 
everything should be cleaned out of the house, and a 
pound of sulphur should be burned for each 3,000 cubic 
feet. Care will be required, as this will be fatal to 
animals and plants, as well as to the spores of the fungus. 

ANTHRACNOSE OF THE BEAN. 

When grown under glass, the bean is very subject 
to the attack of this fungus, which appears on the stems 
and leaves, as well as on the pods, causing spots to form 
that quickly enlarge, until they cover a considerable 
area. Upon the stems and pods the tissues dry up and 
appear sunken. To succeed with this crop, the seed 
used must be free from disease. Although soaking the 
seed iu copper sulphate solution may aid in destroying 
the spores, it is not entirely effectual. As soon as the 
first spot shows, the affected portions should be removed 
and burned, and the plants sprayed with Bordeaux mix- 
ture. After the pods form, some of the solutions should 
be used. We have had good results when using copper 
sulphate solution, 1 to 2,000, but others report failures 
with it. 

DAMPING OFF. 

Considerable losses often occur in the cutting bed 
and seed boxes from what is commonly known as ''damp- 



:5:.() OKEENHOUSE MAXAGEMEKT. 

ino- oif," and ilic disease tliat causes the trouble is often 
s})oken of as tlie "fungus of the eutting bed.'' Really, 
there are several fnngi that may be the cause of the 
trouble, but the one that is most destructiye has been 
named Artotrogus deharyanus (Ilesse). Not only does 
it grow upon living plants, but it may subsist upon 
decaying vegetable matter; hence, one of the conditions 
that is likely to lead to its appearance in a bed of cut- 
tings is the use of sand in which seyeral batches of cut- 
tings have been rooted. If we combine with this a high 
temperature and a close and moist atmosphere, the appear- 
ance of the trouble in a batch of cuttings will be more 
than probable. The same is true with seedlings, and for 
this reason clean sand forms the best seed bed in which 
to start plants that, like the cucumber, recpiire a high 
temi)erature. 

The remedy against this disease is self-evident, and, 
in addition to a frequent change of the sand in the cut- 
ting bed, we must avoid the conditions that have been 
mentioned as ])romoting its develo})ment. It has also 
been found that extremes of temperature and frequent 
sprinklings of the surface, thus keeping it wet while the 
soil beneath is compar;;tively dry, favor the appearance 
of the fungus. If the soil is too wet, it should be stirred, 
thus aiding its drying out. 

The conditions that are mentioned as favoring the 
appearance of the fungus act in two ways, as they cause 
a soft, watery 2:rowth, thus makinu- the cuttings or seed- 
liiiiTS more subject to attack, and they are also favorable 
to the development of the spores and the growth of 
the fungus. 

If it appears in a batch of seedlings, the healthy 
plants should at once be pricked out in a box of fresh 
soil, while in the cutting bed the sand should be throMU 
out, the boards coated with a thick wash of Bordeaux 
mixture, and, if of u valuable variety, the healthy cut- 



TTs'SECTirTDES. iliSl 

tings may be replaced in frcsli sand. Tf others can be 
readily obtained, however, it will i^eiierally l)e better to 
burn them up and nuike now ones. 

Aside from the form mentioned above, ^^damping 
off" may be caused by one or more species of Botrytis 
and Phyllosticta, and upon beans by Colletotriciim Lin- 
demutJiianum, which tlirive under about the same con- 
ditions and which recjnire the same treatment. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

INSECTICIDES. 

In selecting material for the destruction of insects, 
it is quite necessary that the nature of the insect to be 
treated should be understood. Freqnently insecticides 
are applied without effect, when a little knowledge of 
the insect would have shown that the materials used 
were not adapted to the purpose. 

ARSENITES. 

While Paris green, London purple and other arsen- 
ites, hellebore, etc., are valuable when the insects EAT 
the flowers, foliage, or other external portions of tlie 
plants, they are in no way effective against the plant lice, 
scale, and similar insects. 

If the above mentioned arsenites are mixed with one 
hundred parts (by weight) of plaster, and dusted over 
the plants when the foliage is wet, or used in water at 
the rate of a teaspoonful to twelve quarts, such insects as 
eat the portions to which they are applied will be 
destroyed. Hellebore can be diluted with five times its 
weight of plaster, or a teaspoonful can be used to a 
gallon of water. 



;)r)3 GREEXHOrSE MAXAGRMRXT. 

Anutlicr c'Uiss ol' iii.sGclicKU's, in ordeT to be effectual, 
should be ai>i)lied directly u[)on the insects, as they 
destroy by contact, and their effect is not lasting. 

KEROSENE EMULSION. 

Another remedy that is coniino- rapidly into favor 
for the destruction of ai)liides, scale, mealy bugs, and all 
other insects to which it can be directly a]>plied, is 
known as kerosene emulsion. Various pumps and noz- 
zles have been designed for the mixing of water with 
kerosene, btit as yet the emulsion is safest to be used. 
It is prepared with either hard or soft soap, kerosene 
and water, as follows: Take a quart of soft soap that has 
been heated until it has become liquid (or two ounces 
of hard soap dissolved in a gallon of hot water), add one 
l)int of kerosene and mix together until a thick, cream- 
like material is obtained. It can be best prepared by 
using a small force pump, such as is used in applying 
the mixture to the })lants. Care should be taken to 
form a perfect emulsion that will not separate upon 
standing. Before using, the emulsion should be diluted 
with water, so that the kerosene will constitute one-six- 
teenth of the entire mixture, or, in other words, one 
pint of kerosene will nuike eight quarts of insecticide. 
This should be applied with considerable force and in a 
fine spray, covering every ])art of the plants, as it must 
come in contact witli the insects, to be effectual. When 
properly prepared, this mixture can be used with safety 
upon nearly all plants. The cucumber and similar 
plants, and a few others with rough leaves, will, how- 
ever, be injured by it. For the more tender plants, 
Professor Webster recommends one ounce of hard soap 
dissolved in two gallons of hot water, and mixing with it 
one ounce each of oil of cloves and kerosene. In this, 
wdiile at a temperature of 13.") degrees P., the plants 
are dipped. 



INSECTICIDES. 3-33 



PYRRTHRUM. 



Pyrethrum or l)u!iacli is another valuable insect 
destroyer. It contains a volatile oil that is supposed to 
act upon the insects through their breathing organs. It 
can he apjdied. as a powder with a bellows, or in water 
Avitli a force pump or a syringe, using a teaspoonful to 
a gallon. To be most effectual, it should be used in a 
closed room, but even then the liquid application will 
often succeed where the powder will fail. Care should 
be taken to have a fresli su])ply, and if it is to be kept 
any length of time, it should be placed in an air- 
tight vessel. 

TOBACCO. 

For many insects, tobacco is an effective remedy. 
If the houses are filled with smoke from burning tobacco 
stems, the i)lant lice can be kept in check, provided they 
have not too much of a start. As in other cases, pre- 
vention is easier than cure, and if the houses are fumi- 
gated once or twice a week, no aphides will a})pear. The 
tobacco stems should be slightly dampened, and either 
placed in fumigating cans, made of galvanized sheet 
iron, with openings in the sides near the bottom to afford 
a draft, or in piles upon the cement or dirt walk. Shav- 
ings, paper, or better yet, a few live coals, may be used 
for kindling the stenis. Care should be taken that the 
tobacco does not blaze. The amount of smoke that can 
be used will vary with the plants, but if so thick that 
one cannot see more than ten feet, it will generally 
answer. A strong tobacco tea sprayed upon the plants 
is also valuable as an insecticide, and in houses where 
fumigation cannot be relied upon, the sj^rinkling of 
tobacco dust or of tobacco stems about the plants will 
assist in keeping the insects in check. The stems give 
the house an untidy look and the dust is washed off 
in syringing. 
23 



354 G-REKNHOrPR MA XAC F.MEXT. 

Evaporated sul})luu- is also a valual)le insecticide for 
red spider, scale and aphides. 

AVliale oil soaj) is a useful material for washing 
plants, or as a solution for spraying jdants that cannot 
be readily washed, using one pound to eight or ten gal- 
lons of water for tender plants, and a pound to three or 
four gallons for the hardier ones. It is also much 
used in making kerosene emulsion, being preferable to 
common soap. 

There is also a great variety of patent mixtures that 
are used as insect destroyers, among the most valuable 
of which is Hughes's fir tree oil, which can often be used 
to advantage u])on plants that may be injured by the 
kerosene emulsion. At the rate of a half pint to a gal- 
lon of water, it is an effective and safe wash. 

TOBACCO EXTRACT. 

In large ranges of houses, where steam is used for 
heating or pumping, the application of the vapor of 
tobacco will be found easier, safer and more effective 
than the use of smoke. It can readily be applied by 
placing the stems in a barrel or tank and admitting 
steam through a steam pipe to the bottom. Three bar- 
rels will answer for a 100-foot house. Galvanized sheet 
iron pans may be placed upon the steam pipes and used 
for the evaporation of strong tobacco water. They are 
generally about forty inches long, four inches wide and 
nearly as deep, and if two are placed upon each side of a 
house 100 feet long, and the pans filled twice a week, it 
will generally keep the aphides in ciieck. The commer- 
cial tobacco extract can be evaporated in the same wav, 
but onlv a ])int will be required for 4,000 square feet. 
The extract may also be used as a paint upon hot water 
pi})es, applying it with a brush. It will soon dry on and 
in a day or so should be moistened with clear water. 
Another application of the extract should l)e made in a 
day or two, as is necessary. 



INSECTICIDES. 



If the extract is to be extensively used, it will pay 
to i^iit in a specially arranged tank and pijnng for the 
purpose. This consists of a galvanized iron tank, in 
which a quart of the extract is i)laced for 8,000 feet of 
glass. The steam supply pipe enters at the top and 
extends nearly to the bottom. From tliis tank, the 
vapor is carried in pipes to tlie various liouses, wliere 
there sliould be a vent every twenty-five feet. The size 
of the pipes sliould vary from one inch to one and one- 
half inches or larger, according to the amount to be 
treated. The pipes leading from the tank should have 
a downward slope, so that any condensed liquid will not 
collect. To prevent injury to the plants, the pipes 
should be carried in the walks or under the benches, and 
at each outlet there should be an ell and a valve, the 
former to turn the steam horizontally so that it will not 
reach the plants, and the valve to regulate and control 
the escape of the vapor. The ])iping and tank should 
be provided with drip cocks wherever necessary, and 
such valves as will be required to control the steam, and 
to permit the washing out of the tank and pipes. 

As compared with tobacco stems, dust or tea, the 
concentrated extract, the one most commonly used being 
the ''Rose leaf," is clean, easily and quickly applied 
and it has but little odor. For a house 200 by twenty 
feet, the cost is about twenty cents. 

Aside from tlirowing the tol)acco dust over the 
plants, it may be placed over an oil stove. The fumes 
should be slowly driven off, but the flame should be so 
regulated that it does not take fire. The burning of a 
lX)und of tobacco upon stoves, thirty feet apart in a 
bouse, will be effectual. 

HOT WATER. 

Especially for house ])lants, hot water forms a sim- 
ple and effectual remedy, as nearly all insects are killed 



356 GKEE^HOUSE MAXAGEMEXT. 

by water at 135 to I-IO degrees, while tender plants will 
not be injured by water at 150 degrees, and many of the 
hardier species will withstand its use at 180 degrees. If 
the plants are small, they can readily be dipped quickly 
two or three times in the water, Avhicli should be from 
150 to 175 degrees, or the water may be thrown over 
them. While a coarse stream could be used, it will 
hardly answer to apply it as a fine spray, as the water 
will be cooled before it reaches the plant. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

FUNGICIDES, THEIR PREPARATION^ AND USE. 

Many of the diseases of plants are indirectly due to 
some unfavorable condition of temperature or moisture, 
that enfeebles them and provides surroundings that are 
])articularly favorable to the develo})ment of the germs 
of disease. It has long been known that sul])hur could 
be used for the destruction of some of the mildews, and 
various sulphur compounds are among the most valuable 
fungicides. Within the last ten years, several salts of 
copper have also come into use, and as the slightest trace 
wall destroy the spores of fungi, they are employed as 
fungicides, to the almost entire exclusion of other forms. 
The following materials and methods of api)lication are 
particularly Avorthy of mention: 

Sulphur is a chief and simple remedy that is 
destructive, i)articularly to the powdery mildews. As 
flower of sulphur, it may be thrown upon the plants with 
a bellows, and if the temperature of the house is allowed 
to reach IM) degrees upon a bright morning, before ven- 
tilation is given, it will have a good eft'ect. A more 
raj>id evaporation of the sulphur can be secured if it is 



FUXGICIDES. Ot}i 

applied as a Avasli to the steam or hot water i)ipes. 
When made into a thick wasli with an equal <|uantity of 
lime, it can be applied Avith a brush and its effects will 
Ijc noticed for a week or more, accordin"' to the amount 
used and the temperature of the pipes. 

Another method of obtaining evaporated sulphur is 
by the use of a small oil stove, over which the sulphur 
can be i>laced u})()n mii iron dish. If sulphur is evapo- 
rated in this way about twice a week, until its presence 
can be detected by the eye, it will destroy many of the 
insects as well as fungi. Great care should be taken 
that the sulphur does not in any way become overturned 
or take tire, as that would destroy the plants. The lat- 
ter danger will be lessened if an iron dish containing a 
half-inch of sand is placed beneath the dish containing 
the suli)hiir. 

Liver of Sulphur, or sulphide of potassium, dis- 
solved in water at the rate of two ounces to ten gallons 
of water, is also a valuable fungicide. Although its 
effects are less lasting than those of the co})per com- 
pounds, it can be relied u})on for the destruction of pow- 
dery mildew and other superficial fungi, and has the two 
strong points of being readily ])repared, and of not dis- 
coloring the foliage. 

COPPER COMPOl'NDS. 

During the past six or eight years, the use of 
various salts of co})])er as fungicides has rapidly 
increased. The sim})lest, cheapest, and most efficient 
form is a preparation of copper sulphate (blue vitriol) 
and lime, known a^; Bordeaux mixture. For some pur- 
])oses, this fungicide is not desirable, as it leaves a coat- 
ing of lime upon the plants, but when this is not objec- 
tionable, the effect of the application will be rendered 
moi'e lasting by the adhesive <|ualities of the lime. 

This mixture is made in various strengths, accord- 
ing to the severity of tlie disease and the nature of the 



358 GREE]S"nOL'SE MANAGEMENT. 

phmts. If ilu' attack is widosproad, and if the fuiigns 
is a diliic'iilt one to destroy, upon all })hints where a 
thick coating- of lime Avill not he ohjectionable the fol- 
lowing mixture may he used: Four pounds of coi)per 
sulphate, three ponnds of linu\ forty gallons of water. 
Dissolve the copper sulphate in hot water (it can ivadily 
he done by placing it in a })iece of hurla]) and susjkmuI- 
ing in a pail of water), and in another vessel shd^e the 
linu^ (also with hot water), pour together, and add the 
ivmainder of the water. This mixture should be 
strained, in order to remove all lumps that might clog 
the })ump. It is well to test the mixture by adding a 
i'vw drops of solution of ferrocyanide of potassium. If 
it turns the mixture brown, more lime should be added. 

For the powdery mildews, and upon plants where 
the lime is not desirable, the mixture nuiy be nnule half 
as stn)ng as above, using two pounds of copper sulphate, 
two })ounds of lime and forty gallons of water. The 
fungicide should be api)lied in a tine spray, covering 
every pai't of the plants. Except in cases where the dis- 
ease has a tirm foothold, tlu> weaker mixture "will 
generally answer. 

For use when the lime mixtures are not desirable, 
the nioditied eau celeste, or the amnh>niated I'opper I'ar- 
bonate, nuiy be used: The former is made from 'i ])ounds 
cop}>er sulphate, 1 l-. pounds sal so(hi, 1 \-'^ (piarts 
ammonia water (FFFF), 'A'i gallons o( water. 

Dissolve the i't>p[)er sul])hate and sal soda in sei)a- 
rate vessels, ])our t(»gether and, when action has ceased, 
add the ammonia and dilute before using. 

The ammonia solution of copper (.'arbonate, or 
cupram, as it is called for short, is made by dissolving two 
ounct>s of i>iecii)itati'd copi er cai'bonate in o\w (juart of 
an!nu)nia (h'FFF), antl diluting to thi;iv-two gallons, 
^riie last two pre])aralions form clear, dark blue solu- 
tions and, althouiiii less ellective than the Bordeaux 



FUNGICIDES. 359 

mixture, will generally be preferred for use upon plants in 
the greenhouse, as they are less unsightly. Various other 
mixtures have been used for tlie destruction of fungous dis- 
eases, but none of them are as valuable as those described 
above. We have also had fair results from the use of a 
solution of copper sulphate, which is easily prepared and 
is quite inexpensive. We have used it at the rate of one to 
one thousand, or of one ounce to eight gallons of water, 
upon most plants, but in the case of the beet, bean, and 
otiicr plants with smooth leaves, the strength should be 
reduced; for some plants, like the carnation, it can be 
doubled to advantage. To be effectual, soft water 
should be used in making the solution. 

WHITE ARSENIC. 

Good results from the use of a solution of arsenic, 
as a remedy for the rust of the carnation, are reported 
by E. G. Hill and others. If only a few plants are 
grown, it will be best to buy ^^Fowler's solution'' of 
arsenic at a drug store, and use it at the rate of an ounce 
to eight gallons of water. With a little care, a solution 
can be readily made. The following formula is recom- 
mended: Take of arsenious acid 0. P., 616 grains; 
bicarbonate of potash, 1236 grains; water, four ounces. 
Heat until a solution has been made and add enough 
water to make five ounces by measure. Use one ounce 
of the solution to eight gallons of water. Care should 
be taken not to inhale any of the vapor when making 
the solution. A thorough application seems to kill the 
spores and the body of the fungus, and at the same 
time causes the injured leaves to droxo off, thus cleaning 
up the plants. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 

Brief allusions have sevoral times been made to the 
preparation of soil for various greenhouse crops, but a 
few words in a general way may not be amiss. 

In the past, there lias been great mystery thrown 
over the pre}>aration of potting soil by the Horist of the 
old school, whose recipes have been as exact and as com- 
plex as the [)liysic'ian's i>rescription. To-day, however, 
the veil has been thrown back, and the whole matter has 
been fonnd to be siin})lieity itself. The materials that 
form the basis of the potting soil for nearly all green- 
house plants, are rotten pasture sods and eow, horse, or 
sheep manure. In the proportion of one ()f the latter to 
from two to five of the former. 'J'lie sods should be cut 
in the spring or fall, several months before the soil will 
be needed, and shouhl be obtained if possible from an 
old pasture that has a thiek tibrons tuif, tlie slice being 
made from two to fonr inches thiek, according to the 
thickness of the sod. They should be })iled up and 
decomposed manure added, using a layer of manure to 
two or three layers of sods. If the sods come from a 
clay soil, the addition of sharp sand will be of benetit 
and, for most crops, a ]>ortion at least of the manure 
should come from the horse stable. On the other hand, 
if the turf contains more or less sand, cow manure will 
be preferable and, if from a very light soil, tlie addition 
of a very small (juantity of ilav loam will he of value. 
As a rule, howevei-, when the turf can be obtained from 
a moderately heavy, sandy loam soil, the addition of the 

* 300 



SOIL, MANURES AND WATERING. 361 

manure alone is all that will be necessary. When the 
sods have become perhajjs half rotted, the pile should be 
cut down and worked over. If this is done the first of 
May, the compost can be used for filling the benches, in 
three or four weeks, and by August it will be in good 
condition for potting. When it can be readily obtained, 
sheej) manure is of value, either for mixing with soil for 
potting, as a top-dressing or for preparing liquid manure. 

For seed pans and for potting cuttings, it is well to 
pass the compost through a coarse sieve, but for most 
jairposes this will be an injury, as much of the fibrous 
])ortion of the compost will be removed. With a corn- 
iest prepared as above, almost any kind of plants can 
be grown, but the intelligent florist will jirefer to modify 
it to suit the wants of the different species. 

For bulbs, in particular, and for cuttings of nearly 
all plants, the amount of sand can well be increased. 
Leaf mold is a valuable addition to a potting soil, but, 
for most plants, its use is. not essential, and the same 
can be said of peat. Many of the stove plants, however, 
do best in a light, porous soil, and leaf mold and peat 
can be added to advantage, in tlie proportion of one part 
of each to eight of the compost. 

SAND FOR THE CUTTING BENCH. 

The use of ^ ^silver sand" has been insisted upon as 
necessary for success in growing cuttings, but florists 
now take no especial pains to obtain it, although it is 
desirable if it can be secured near at hand. The main 
thing is to use sharp sand of medium fineness, that is 
free from organic matter. Anything that partakes of a 
quicksand nature, where the angles of the grains have 
been worn off, will ])ack around the cuttings, and 
extremely fine sand has the same fault. Coarse sand, on 
the otlier hand, dries out too quickly, unless it is flooded, 
and admits air too fi*eely to the cut surface of the cut- 



3G2 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMEN'T. 

tings. Soil containing organic matter is also to be 
avoided, as its fermentation will lead to the development 
of bacteria and fungi, which are likely to cause the 
decay of the cuttings. It is probable, too, that the 
})resence of organic matter in the soil hinders the proper 
aeration of the cutting bed. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Although stable manure should be the principal 
reliance for plant food, some of the chemical manures 
can be used to advantage. Aside from tlieir value in 
supplying plant food, they will, if judiciously applied, 
promote a firm, healthy growth of the plants, and im- 
prove the texture and keeping qualities of the flowers. 
Great care should be taken in the use of chemical fer- 
tilizers, as many of them are of a strong alkaline, while 
others are of an acid, nature, and if used to excess, they 
will have an injurious rather than a beneficial effect. 

AVitli the exception of ground bone, it is not safe to 
use any of them in seed pans, or in soil for cuttings or 
young seedlings. A large amount of water is given off 
from the surface of the soil by evaporation. The alka- 
lies held in solution are deposited on the surface of the 
soil, and may be strong enough to destroy the tender 
plants. Even when used in small (juantities in solution 
in water, if applied frequently, they may accumulate 
and become strong enough to injure the plants. 

Gronnd bone is one of the most valuable mineral 
fertilizers, as it promotes a strong, yet firm and healthy, 
growth and can be used in almost an unlimited quantity, 
without danger of injuring the plants. Pure bone, only, 
should be used, and to jiroduce the best effects it should 
be finely ground. Whatever the plants to be grown, 
bone meal can be added to the soil to advantage, taking 
the place of a ])art of the manure, and it will be found 
equally valuable whether ihey are in seed boxes, cut- 



SOIL, MAN"URES Aiq^D WATE]EIIN"G. 30:] 

tings, or to be repotted. For plants grown either in 
shallow or in solid beds, the addition of bone meal to the 
soil, both at time of planting and at intervals during the 
season, will be of value. One quart of pure, fine ground 
bone to a bushel of soil will answer for this purpose, but 
two or three times as much can be used for seed boxes, 
or for repotting. Ground bone furnishes about tw^enty 
to twenty-five per cent phosphoric acid, of which less 
than one-half per cent is soluble, and about six per cent 
is reverted (available to plants). It also contains about 
four per cent of nitrogen. There is, however, a consid- 
erable variation in the amount of the constituents. 
Mildly acidulated bone, if used at all, should be first 
carefully tested. 

Bone superphosphate is made by dissolving bones in 
sulphuric acid, thus rendering nearly all the phosphoric 
acid available to the plants. If used carefully, it is of 
value in the garden and for deep beds, but as the com- 
mercial brands generally contain some free acid and pot- 
ash, its use by the florist in the greenhouse cannot 
be recommended. 

Dissolved bone black consists of the refuse bone 
charcoal from sugar refineries and other sources, dis- 
solved in acid, and ground. It is of varying strength, 
and contains all the way from fifteen to twenty-five per 
cent of phosphoric acid. The phosphorus is in a solu- 
ble form, and were it always free from sul2:)huric acid, it 
would be preferable to raw bone. It should be used 
with great care in pots or shallow beds, but when it can 
be thoroughly mixed with the soil in the garden or in 
deep beds, it forms a valuable source of phosphoric acid. 
When used in repotting soil, or in shallow beds, one 
pound to the bushel can generally be used with safety, 
while half that quantity will be as much as any crop will 
need. It is, however, particularly desirable as a top- 
dressing, using perhaps one pound to twenty square feet 



of hv(\, and in water, either alone or eonihiniHl with 
other eheniieals. Two or even three tahhv^poonfuls in a 
twelve-({uart watering- pot of water will he ])erfeetly safe. 

Sulphate and Muriate of Potash are the usual 
materials used as a souree of potash, and when wood 
ashes cannot he ohtained. are extreuudy valuahle. The 
sulphate is the hest form for greenhouse use, and may he 
a})}>lied either hroadeasted and mixed with the soil, or in 
solutiiui in water. They should never he used in seed 
hoxes, or for young jdants of any kind, hut in repotting 
large plants or in shallow heds, a tahlespoonful to a 
hushel of tiie soil can he used to advantage. In water, 
a tahh'spo(Miful to twelve (puirts will he safe. 

Kainit is a crude form of potash salts that is of 
value for supplying potash, and, on account of its strong 
alkaline nature, it is often used, al)out the same as the 
sulphate of ])otash, for the destruction of insects, worms, 
etc., in the soil. 

Nitrate of Potash or saltpeter, is also used as a 
source for hoth nitrogen and potash. AVhile its cost is 
an ohjection to its use in large quantities, it will he 
hnind valuahle when dissolved in water at the rate of a 
tahlespoonful in eight or ten <[uarts, and used as a 
liijuid manure. 

Nitrate of Soda is highly recommended for fur- 
nishino- nitroueu for ijreenhouse cro]>s, and has heen 
tried hv many Horists. As a rule, however, it has heen 
found a hindrance to the growth of the plants. This is 
owing to the fact ihut it has heen used in too great 
strength. When thoroughly mixed with the soil, at the 
rate of a teaspoonful to a hushel, it will henefit large 
plants, or use one pound to 100 square feet of hench. 
As a liquid manure, it will he found safest, and at the 
rate of a teaspoonful to three gallons of water it will he 
useful. If used too frequently it may cause too rank u 
growth of the ]>lants. 



SOIL, MAXTRES ASH W ATEKrXG. 365 

Sulphate of Ammonia is jiIko used for its nitro- 
gen, unci is less likely fo injure the plants than nitrate 
of soda. For all i)lants in vvhieli a large leaf develop- 
ment or rapid growth is desired, this chemical is a very 
valuahle fertilizer. One pound to fifty square feet of 
bench, or a tablespoonful to a bushel of soil, or three 
gallons of water, can be safely used. 

MIXED CHEMICAL MANURES. 

Nearly every fertilizer manufacturer puts up a fer- 
tilizer prepared for greenhouse use, and, if purchased in 
large quantities, they can be obtained at rates but little 
above the market rates for the materials. 

The following mixtures will be found useful to be 
added to the soil for nearly all greenhouse crops: Two 
hundred pounds pure ground bone, 'M) j)ounds sulphate 
of potash, 50 i)onnds sulphate of ammonia, or 50 pounds 
of nitrate of soda; oi- -^oO pounds ground bone and 50 
pounds nitrate of potash. Either of the above. can be 
used at the rate of one poun<l to twenty square feet of 
bench surface, or to two bushels of soil for repotting. 

If desired for use as a liquid manure in water, dis- 
solved bone black should bo employed instead of ground 
bone, in the following proportions: One hundred 
jiounds of dissolved bone black, 50 pounds sulphate of 
potash and 50 pounds nitrate of soda, or 50 })ounds sul- 
phate of ammonia. Or, ]()() pounds dissolved bone black 
and 50 i)ounds nitrate of potash, used at the rate of a 
tablespoonful of either mixture to a gallon of water. 

LIQUrD MANURES. 

In addition to the use of the above chemicals dis- 
solved in water, every florist should employ at frequent 
intervals, especially during the summer, liquid fertilizers 
made from the animal manures, for which purpose the 
manure of the sheep, hen, pigeon, cow, or horse, may 



:;nn 



GREENnOrSE MAXAOKMENTT. 



be used. A tank or barrol slioiiM he located at some 
convenient ])oint, and in it should be i)laeed aliout one 
foot of manure. If tilled with water and allowed to 
stand a few hours, it will be ready for use. Plants of all 
kinds, either growing in beds or that have received their 
last shift in pots, and have tilled the soil with their roots, 
should receive, during the growing season, an application 
of liquid manure, either aninuil or chemical, from once 
to three times a week. 

To secure (piick results and for apjdication in solu- 
tion, sixty pounds of nitrate of soda, twenty-tive of 

^i^a nitrate of potash and titteen of 
phosphate of ammt>nia, form 
a good mixture. A tirmer, 
but less rapid, growth will be 
secured from tifty pounds ni- 
trate of soda, thirty of nitrate 
of potash, and twenty of phos- 
pliate of ammonia. Elmer D. 
Smith of Adrian, ^[ichigan, 
has been very successful in 
growing chrysanthemums Avith 
the above mixture, ai)plying 
one pound in one hundred gal- 
lons of water for a house one hundred by eighteen feet, 
every five days until the flowers are half-open. Phos- 
l^hate of potash is also used in place (^f the nitrate of 
potash and phosphate of ammonia. 

Commercial brands are put uj) by several manufac- 
turers, which give good results, but, like all concentrated 
fertilizers, they must be used with care. 

For the ap])lication of liquid fertilizers the Kinney 
pump (Fig. 1'2T), made by the Kingston (E. I.) Hose 
Connection Co., will be found very useful. It is at- 
tached to a hose and draws from a barrel or tank a 
stronof solution and, after miuiilino" it witli the clear 




FIG. V. 



THK KIXNKY ITMP 



SOIL, MAXFKES AXD WATERTXG. SOT 

water, applies it to tlic pl.inls with no more trouble than 
if the water alone is used. Tlie rate of dilution can 
be readily varied. 

JADOO FIBRE AND LIQUID. 

These materials have been recently introduced as a 
potting soil and liquid manure. While rather expensive 
for general use, good plants can be grown in the fibre, 
and it is particularly valuable for decorative plants. It 
retains moisture and lessens the danger of injury from 
drying out of the plants. Professor Galloway, who has 
tested it thoroughly, recommends the fibre for hanging 
baskets, jardinieres, house pot-plants, palms, etc. Good 
results can also be obtained with the liquid, diluted with 
forty-eight parts of water. 

WATERING. 

In the past, the practice has been to apjily water to 
the surface of the soil and allow it to soak in. AVhile this 
method is still used for pot-plants, many persons are 
securing good results from the sub-irrigation' of plants 
grown in beds. Wiien plants are surface watered, unless 
one is familiar with the work, there is danger on the one 
hand of over-watering and, on the other, of keeping the 
soil too dry. When plants are watered, the amount 
applied should be sufficient to thoroughly moisten the 
soil, and no more water should be given them until they, 
in some way, manifest a need of it. An experienced florist 
can tell from the appearance of the plants, even before 
they begin to wilt, as to their need of further applica- 
tion of water. The appearance of the pots and soil 
should also be considered. While plants are at rest, or 
in the case of young plants before they have established 
themselves, especially if they are in large pots, little 
water will be required, and, unless withheld, there will 
be danger of injury. As a rule, the early morning is the 
best time for watering, but during the hot days of sum- 



368 GREEXHOrSE MAXAGRMEXT. 

mer, the })lrin*s sliould he GxamiiUMl (woor tlu'ce times 
unci should receive water, if they show (lie need of it. 
AVhile cistern water can be used for most plants, it is 
desirable that the chill be taken from water brought 
directly from springs. For stove plants and others 
requiring a moderately high temperature, it will be 
necessary to provide some method for warming the 
water. This can generally be done by providing tanks 
through which steam or water pipes can pass. 

SUB-IRRIGATION. 

For several years, experiments have been carried on 
in watering plants growing in greenhouse beds, through 
subterranean pipes. In nearly every case good results 
have been obtained, as there was not only a larger and 
earlier development of the plants, but rlie labor of api)li- 
cation was greatly reduced, and a smaller amount of 
water sufficed. In many cases, too, the danger from 
attack of various plant diseases was lessened. Among 
those who have had most experience with sub-irrigation 
in the greenhouse is Professor AV. J. (Jreen, of the Ohio 
Experiment Station, who has prepared the follow- 
ing notes: 

SUB-IRRIGATIOX JX THE GREENHOUSE. 

Sub-irrigation in the greenhouse grew out of the 
necessity of devising ways and means to prevent the let- 
tuce rot. After several conversations on the subject, 
between Mr. W. J. Green, horticulturist of the Ohio 
Experiment Station, and Mr. W. S. Turner, assistant, 
the latter set some lettuce plants in a box in which a 
tile was so placed as to admit of watering without wet- 
ting the foliage. The subsequent development of the 
method is due to the combined efforts of W. J. Green, 
E. C. Green and W. S. Turner. 

The experiments were begun in the winter of 
1890-91, but in addition to some box trials a bed seven 



SOIL, MANURES AXD WATERTXG. 3()0 

hv ten feet was ])lante<l, .'ind, .aiviii^^ .safisfacfcory results, 
the woik Avas extended tlie next season, when still better 
results were obtained. The tiiird year nothing was done 
l)y the station, beeause of removal to AVooster, Wayne 
county, but the work was carried on at the university in 
Columbus, in the houses first used for the purpose, and 
alon^ the same lines, but on a larger scale, under the 
management of Mr. Turner. The fourth season the 
experiments were extended and the scope widened, 
under favorable circumstances, in the four new houses 
built by the station at Wooster, Ohio. 

The experiments, although not fully completed 
with all classes of plants which may be grown in the 
soil on greenhouse benches, show that all species do 
not respond in the same degree to the treatment, some 
being but slightly benefited, while with others the 
crop is often doubled. It is somewhat unexpected, 
but no plants, not even roses, have been injured by 
the treatment. 

Thus far the experiments seem to show that the 
various classes of plants which have been tested are ben- 
efited by sub-irrigation in about the following order, 
beginning with those which show the greatest gain : 
Radishes, lettuce, cucumbers, cauliflower, beets, carna- 
tions, violets, smilax, roses, tomatoes. It is ((uite prob- 
able that further experiments will change the order, 
but the list is a provisional one simply, and is given for 
the general guidance of those who contemplate making 
a trial of the method. Radishes have generally shown 
more marked gains by sub-irrigation tlian any other 
crop, but in some trials lettuce has taken the first place. 
By this method radishes grow quicker, hence come to a 
marketable size earlier than by surface watering. It 
usually happens that marketable radishes will be found 
in both the surface and sub-irrigated beds at the sanx^ 
time, but the larger number in the latter, and of greater- 
2-4 



BTO GREENHOUSE M ANAGEMEXT. 

;»vor{ii;c wciolit. Tlie followiiii;- trial with French 
Breukfcist illustrates the above : 



No. marketable 


Weight, 


♦ Feb. 33. 


ounces. 


77 


41 


40 


18 



8ab-irrigated, 
Surface irrigated, 

The total number in each bed was 155, thus in the 
sub-irrigated bed about one-half were fit for the market 
at the tirst gathering, and four days later the remainder 
were marketable, whereas in the surf ace- watered bed but 
little more than one-fourth were ready on the 23d, and 
three pul lings instead of two had to be made, and tlie 
average size was less. The market value of the sub-irri' 
gated was more than double that of the others, even 
tliough earliness is not taken into account. The chief 
gain due to earlier maturity, however, is because of the 
fact that the beds may be cleared several days sooner, 
which is a matter worthy of consideration. 

Lettuce is a much more profitable crop than rad- 
ishes, and some of the results with it have been quite 
equal to the above. Tlie following are some of the 
results with the Grand Rai)ids, taken at random from 
notes of recent experiments : 

Experiment No. 1. 

No plants. Weight. 

Sub-irrigated, 55 17 lbs. 8 oz. 

Surface irrigated, 55 9 lbs. 8 oz. 

Experiment No. 2. 

Sub-irrigated, 75 23 lbs. 15 oz. 

Surface irrigated, 75 18 lbs. 3 oz. 

Experiment No. 3. 

Sub-irrigated, 50 14 lbs. 12 oz. 

Surface irrigated, 50 9 lbs. 13 oz. 

Some cases can be given where other varieties have 
shown even better results, and a number in which the 
crop has been more than doubled, by sub-irrigation. 
Fifty per cent is considered a fair average gain, and 



SOIL, waxurp:s and watering. 371 

some cases have occurred wliere it has been as low as 
twenty. Several causes contribute to make the results 
vary so greatly. Generally it has been found that the 
gain by sub-irrigation is less in the early part of the 
winter than toward spring, owing largely to the compar- 
ative quantities of water required at these dates. 

The character of the soil has something to do with 
the results also. Surface watering compacts the soil, 
but sub-irrigation does not, hence with a naturally heavy 
soil it is soniewliat difficult to give tiie needed quantity 
of water when applied to the surface, without producing 
a water-logged condition, and there is danger also of 
inducing rot, no matter what the character of the soil. 
When the lettuce becomes so large as to cover the sur- 
face of the bed, tiie difficulty of watering on the surface 
is much increased, hence, uniform and thorough watering 
at this critical period requires much skill and patience. 
Care has been taken to give the surface-watered beds the 
best of attention, but it has not been possible to water 
them so thoroughly and well as by sub-irrigation, since 
by the latter method the watering can ])e done as easily 
at one period of growth as another, and the requisite 
quantity of water more certainly supplied. 

The true explanation must await further experi- 
ments, but at present the opinion may be ventured 
that the amount of water and physical condition of the 
soil have much to do with tlie results, and are probably 
tlio most important factors. An important consid- 
eration in the case of lettuce is the fact that there is 
less rot among the plants on the sub-irrigated plots 
than where surface watering is practiced. There is 
a difference in waste in the way of trimmings, due 
both to rot and soiled lower leaves, ranging from ten 
to fifteen per cent in favor of the sub-irrigated. It 
should not be inferred, however, that rot will not occur 
where sub-irrigation is practiced, for it will appear if 



GKEKXIlOrSK MANAliK.M KNT. 



|n'oi)or i)ioc'autions are not taken in koepinii' tlio lionses 
cool and in ventilating pro}ierly. 

There is (jnite a marked ditferenee in tlie qnantity 
oi bloom and size of tlowers with earnations grown bv 
the two methods, bnt no data ean be given, as the ex- 
periments are ineomplete. Sinee the plants do not 
shade the soil to any extent, it soon beeomes quite hard 
where water is applied to the surfaee, which necessitates 
frequent digging. In the sub-irrigated beds, however, 
the soil does not become compacted, and the surfaee re- 
mains loose and friublo, in ji condition to be permeated 
by the air, even without digging. This physical etTect 
upon the soil, of sub-irrigation, makes quite a difference 
in the amount of work required to care for a given space 
by the twc> methods of watering. The carnation is not 
an extreme case, but is a good example, as showing this 
ditferenee. 

Smihix and violets seem to res})ond well to this 
treat men I. but comparatixe data cannot be given at 
j)resent. The result of tlie experiment on roses has been 
I'St because of nematodes, and it is worthy of note that 
this pest was less destructive \\]Kn\ the sub-irrigated than 
upon the surface-watered bed. 

In speaking of lettuce, the fact was referred to, that 
less care and skill are required to Avater ]>ri>i)erly by sub- 
irrigation than by the ordinary method, and it may be 
further stated that the labor is less also. 'I'he water is 
applied i[uickly and it runs where it is needed. The 
gardener judges as to the amount retjuircd by the con- 
dition of both plants and soil, as by the old methods. 
Contrary to what might bt^ inferred, he is less liable to 
over-water by the new than by the old plan, for with a 
loose, friable soil a water-logged coiulitiiui is not liable 
to occur. In our experience it has never ha[){)ened. 

IV) we syringe the foliage «d' sub-irrigated j)lants N> 
destroy the red spider, and do we sprinkle the walks to 



SOIL, MANLKES AN J) WATERING. 3T3 

.sui)})]y moisture to the air ? These questions are fre- 
quently asked, and seem to be uppermost in tlie minds 
of many. The answer to the first is, yes, of those tliat 
need it, and to the second, no. Lettuce, and most veg- 
etables, in fact, need not be syringed, and never receive 
water on the foliage, except once at planting. Almost 
the entire houses are watered by sub-irrigation, ])ut 
there is enough moisture in the air to keep the plants 
in a healthy growing condition, derived from transpira- 
tion through the foliage and evaporation from the soil. 
The necessity of supplying more moisture to the air than 
this, for the plants above named, is not recognized. 

HOW SUB-IRRIGATION IS OPERATED. 

With plants that are transplanted one or moie 
times, sub-irrigation is begun as soon as the seed is 
sown. Flats sixteen by twenty-four inches, and two 
inches deep, with slatted bottoms, are used for seed 
sowing. As soon as the seed is sown the flats are placed 
in a shallow vat containing an inch or two of water, and 
allowed to stand until the moisture shows on top. They 
are then set in any convenient spot until water is again 
required, whicli is not so soon as when surface watering- 
is practiced. This method of watering is followed until 
the plants are set in the beds, or benches. Probably 
this method of watering involves more labor than the 
old plan, but the plants do so much better and it is so 
much more satisfactory in every vvay, that it must be 
counted as an improvement. Referring to experiment 
No. 1, with lettuce, it will be seen that the results were 
better than in the other cases. The plants in this ex- 
periment were carried through from the beginning by 
the two methods. The sub-irrigated were watered in 
that manner from the time the seed was sown, while the 
surface- watered were trefited in the old way throughout 
the experiment. In the other experiments the differ- 



374 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 

ence in treatment was begun when the plants were set 
in the benches. 

By sub-irrigation, damping off is reduced, the soil 
does not harden, and less attention is required than 
when surface watering is practiced. It is particularly 
recommended for the first watering after the seed is 
sown, to prevent washing of the soil and baking of 
the surface. 

In the benches sub-irrigation is accomplished by 
means of two and one-half or three-inch drain tile laid 
two feet apart on the bottom, either lengthwise or cross- 
wise, and covered with soil to the ordinary depth. Gas 
pipe, with holes drilled at frequent intervals, may be 
employed, but the cost is greater. Our best results 
have been obtained with tile laid on a level, crosswise of 
the benches. Long runs of tile are not always satisfac- 
tory. If iron pipe is used the holes should not be more 
than two feet apart, and not larger than one-fourth 
inch. If long runs are used the pipe must be larger 
than for short runs, and in all cases the ca])acity of the 
l)ipe must be greater than the combined capacity of the 
small holes. The tile may be laid end to end closely, 
without cement, but ordinarily a more even flow is se- 
cured if the joints are lightly cemented and then broken 
just before hardening, so as to make cracks of uniform 
size. 

The water may be introduced by boring holes 
through the side boards of the benches, or a T joint 
used, or, what is still better, a curved joint of sewer 
pipe of same size as the tile. When the beds are to be 
irrigated, water is introduced into the pipe or tile 
quickly, and allowed to run full length, when it soaks 
out uniformly through the adjacent soil. 

Sub-irrigation pre-sup})oses a w^ater-tight bench 
bottom. This may be constructed in various ways, but 
the cheapest j^lan is to use ordinary barn boards, with 



SOIL, MANURES AXD WATERING. 375 

no shakes or loose knots. These are laid so as to nearly 
tonch, and battened with lath, after which a coating of 
thin cement makes a water-tight bottom. Matched 
lumber, laid in white lead, answers the same purpose, 
but costs more. The best bottom is made of tile, either 
hexagonal, octagonal or flat, and covered with cement. 
Ordinary hexagonal (six-sided) tile laid on iron supports 
makes a very satisfactory bottom, and is as cheap as 
anything in the shape of tile. When cemented prop- 
erly, this makes a durable and satisfactory bottom. 
Lumber may be used for the sides, but is not satisfac- 
tory, as it war23S and springs away from the tile, causing 
leakage. Slate, seven or eight inclies wide, is the best 
material, and this is held in place by galvanized iron 
strips at the top and bottom. These strips are cut two 
inches wide, and bent in the form of U-shaped troughs. 
The slate sets into the bottom trough, while the upper 
trough fits over the top of the slate, holding them 
together firmly. These slate sides rest on the iron sup- 
ports to the tile, and are fastened to the iron gas pipes 
which sui^port the purlins. 

Thus it will be seen that to construct a bench for 
sub-irrigation adds but little to the cost over one equally 
durable made in the ordinary manner for surface water- 
ing. Where beds are on the ground, it might be neces- 
sary, in some cases, to make a water-tight bottom with 
cement, but not so if the subsoil is sufficiently retentive. 

In conclusion, it might not be out of place to answer 
some theoretical objections urged against the plan be- 
cause drainage is not provided for, and humidity of the 
air is not taken into account, but it is proposed to let 
facts stand in the place of arguments, and to place 
the whole matter in the hands of practical men for 
confirmation. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

FUEL — COAL, WOOD AND CRUDE OIL. 

The location and extent of the establishment will 
have mnch to do in determining what kind of fuel will 
be most satisfactory and economical. 

The use of hard wood, in localities where it is plen- 
tiful and where coal is dear, may be advisable, especially 
when flues are used, or in large establishments where a 
night flreman is employed. For small heaters in which 
coal is used, the nut anthracite will be preferable, and 
as the size of the heater increases, a choice must be made 
between the e^g or pea sizes, and bituminous coal. 
Most of our modern heaters are made for cither hard or 
soft coal, and the choice that is made will depend largely 
upon the cost of each. In large establishments some 
form of bituminous coal wonld probably be used. 

When situated near the mines, some of the low- 
priced grades of pea or slack coal will make cheap fuel, 
but they are not worth more than two-thirds as much as 
good lump coal, and as the freight and handling make 
up the principal cost of tlie former, when they have to 
be transported any great distance, the latter will be the 
cheapest fuel. 

CRUDE OIL AS FUEL. 

Various devices have been invented for the burning 
of crude oil in greenhouse heaters. This material can 
only be used when steam under a moderately high pres- 
sure can be used to vaporize the oil. In order to use it 
in a hot water heater, a small steam boiler will also be 
needed as an auxiliary. One of the best of these burners 

376 



FUEL. 



377 



(Fig. 128) is that j^atented by James B. Moore, of Read- 
ing, Pa., which consists of an oil tube with a tapered 
nozzle, surrounded by a steam pipe also with a tapered 
nozzle. The combustion chamber is of solid metal and 
is placed in the ash pit, the grate having been taken 
out. The air for combustion is admitted through open- 
ings on three sides of the base of the boiler. The 
burner is inserted through a hole on the fourth side, and 
is surrounded by a conical tube through which the air 
for combustion enters. 

The oil tube is connected with the oil tank, and the 
steam pipe with the steam dome, and also with an air 




FIG. lL>8. CRUDE OIL BURNER. 



pumj), by which a blast is supplied while getting up 
steam. The steam pipe does not go directly from the 
dome to the burner, but first makes a circuit of the com- 
bustion chamber, and the steam is there superheated. 
In passing through the tube to the nozzle, the oil, being 
surrounded by the superheated steam, is considerably 
heated, and flowing through the spiral grooves in the 



3T8 greein^house ma:n"agemei^t. 

valve escapes from the nozzle, but is at once vaporized 
by and mixed with the steam. It is thus carried into 
the combustion chamber, and may be scattered by a 
daflecfcor. While a pressure of steam of from ten to fif- 
teen pounds is desirable, the burner will give a perfect 
combustion of fuel with eight pounds, and even less. 

In the past many persons have been prejudiced 
against the use of crude oil as fuel, on account of the 
offensive odor given off when it is handled, and from 
the many fires and explosions that have occurred from 
its use. Crude oil cannot be used to advantage unless a 
pipe can be run from the greenhouse to a large iron tank 
in which the oil is stored. This tank must be several 
hundred feet from any building, and so situated that it 
can be readily connected with a tank car on a side track. 
In this way there will be but little odor. The oil, by 
opening a valve, will run down hill to the greenhouse, 
and if the joints are all tight there will be no danger 
from explosions. The burners will require but little 
attention, there is no stoking to be done, no ashes to 
be carried out, and there will be no dirt and smoke to 
annoy one. 

About one hundred gallons of oil will be equal to a 
ton of Anthracite pea coal, and making allowance for 
the extra labor required when coal is burned, it is gen- 
erally estimated that with oil at $1.25 per barrel, it will 
be as cheap as soft coal at 11.80 per ton, and although 
the relative price may vary, the usual opinion is that 
with a good burner the oil is about twenty-five per cent 
cheaper than steam lump coal. 

GAS AND GASOLIi^E. 

Natural gas has been used with good results, but it 
cannot always be relied upon, and the supply is even 
now giving out in some places, while the limited terri- 
tory in which it is found precludes its general use. 



FUEL. oTO 

"Water gas is found in many places to be an econom- 
ical heatini>- material. It costs only abont twenty-five 
cents per thousand feet, and at that price is less than 
one-half as expensive as coal, and is regarded by many 
as cheaper than natural gas at current prices. AVhile it 
may come into general use in cities, few florists are so 
situated that tliey can obtain it except at a considerable 
expense for the laying of mains, and it has not as yet 
been thoroughly tested for greenhouse heating. Gaso- 
line can be readily handled, and florists are now looking 
to it as a valuable source of fnel. When a burner 
adapted for its use has been invented, it may revolution- 
ize our present heating plants. 



INDEX. 



Page 

Achyranthes, varieties of 276 

Aleyrodes (wliite flies) 311 

A looasias 1S(» 

Alternaiitheva, in-opagatioii of, 27(! 

Aiidroniecla, t'on'ing of 141 

Anthraonose of the bean ;?4;> 

of eai-iiations 832 

of tlie rose 328 

of violets 341 

Antlmriums, propajjation and 

care of * 177 

Aphis, llie male and female . .. 309 

Aquariums 272 

Aralias im 

Araucarias IGG 

Ard isias 13S 

Arsenites .iol 

Asparagus as a florist's green . . 158 

winter forcinjf of 220 

Aspidistras, i)ropagation and 

uses of 168 

Azaleas, potting and care of... 131 

iJac.teriosis of carnations .■5.?7 

Hean, ant hracnose of the 3451 

Beans, tlic forcing of 232 

Bedding plants, the growing of, 274 

Beets for forcing 2.32 

liegonias, tuberous, care of 103 

liermuda lilv disease .343 

Black si)ot of the rose 324 

Bordeaux mixture as a fungi- 
cide .S,'>7 

Budding, propagation bv 30.5 

Bugs, plant, and remedies for 

them 310 

Bulbs and their culture 88 

for the lawn 279 

Cacti, care of 284 

(^aladium esculentum, treat- 
ment of 279 

fancy 113 

Oalatheas 174 

Calceolarias, g r o w i n g the 

plants 143 

Callas, how to grow 98 

Cannas as greenhouse ulants.. 108 

propagation and care of 280 

varieties of 109 



Pat>c 
Carnations, care of the house 

for 4S 

disbudding 46 

tUseases of .328 

growing plants in houses... .34 

Jiistory of 26 

in bed's and benches .'!6 

jilanting out and cultiva- 
tion ;!1 

planting the houses .'.7 

]>()! ting off 29 

propagation t)f 27 

soi 1 for .lo 

staking and trellising 40 

topdressing and manuring, 48 

varieties of 49 

watering and ventilating.. .■>9 

Carrots, the forcing of 2.'i2 

Caulillower, forcing of 22S 

Cereus, night blooming, varie- 
ties of 28.') 

Chemical manures and their 

effects ."Wo 

Chrysanthemums 60 

care of the plants 57 

diseases of .'{45 

field culture 69 

growing for cut flowers 57 

l*tstory of 54 

insects and diseases 7<") 

liauid manure for 70 

propagation by cuttings . .. 56 

propagation by seeds 55 

single stem plants in pots, 66 

specimen plants 67 

staking the pot plants 70 

standards 68 

taking the buds and dis- 
budding 63 

varieties and their cljissi- 

fication 70 

Cinerarias, propagation and 

care of l-!6 

Coal, hard and soft as fuel 376 

''oleus, ])r()i)agation and care 

of 276 

Copjier carbonate and its >ise.. 357 
compounds as fungicides. . 3.58 



Careof and. soil for house plants 2,59 Cordylines, propagation and 

Carnation houses 32 I care of 168 

rust 328 1 Crocuses, care of 93 

380 



IXDEX. 



381 



Page 

Crotons 170 

Crude oil as fuel 376 

Cucumber aud melon, diseases 

of 348 

as a winter crop 198 

for forcing", varieties of.... 205 

l)lanting: and training 201 

pollination of 203 

Cupram, its prei^aration and 

use 357 

Cutting bed, the 295 

bed fungus 350 

Cuttings, propagation by 291 

Cyanophyllums 173 

Cyclamen, planting and care 

of 100 

Cy tisus 136 

Dahlias, propagation and care, 281 

Damping off 350 

Dieffenbachias, propagation 

and care of 177 

Diseases and insects of house 

plants 263 

of 1 he carnation 328 

of the rose 324 

Of violets 338 

Dracaenas, propagation and 

care of 168 

Easter lilies, planting and care 

of 95 

Eel worms 317 

on violets 342 

Electro culture of lettuce 194 

Eulalias, propagation and care 

of 283 

Extract of tobacco 354 

Eye cuttings 297 

Fairy ring spot of carnations. . 334 
Ferns, propagation and care of, 153 

vari et ies of 154 

Fertilizers, chemical 362 

Flock in mushrooms 319 

Flowering plants for bedding. 277 
Foliage plants, the growing of, 274 

Freesias, care of 95 

Frui t trees under glass 253 

Fuel — coal, wood and oil 376 

Fumigation with hydrocyanic 

aci d gas 320 

Fungicides, their preparation 

and use 356 

Fungous diseases of plants 324 

Gardenias 139 

Gas and gasoline as fuel 378 

Gladiolus, forcinir of 101 

Grafting, propagation by 301 

wax, preparation of 305 

Grape growing in pots 246 

growing under glass 234 

Grapes, care of vines in winter, 245 
disbudding and thinniDg... 241 

keeping the fruit 244 

propagating the plants 245 

temperature and ventila- 
tion 243 

the border for 234 

the forcing of 244 



Page 
Grapes, training and pruning. . 239 

under glass, care of 237 

varieties for forcing 236 

watering and syringing 242 

Gloxinias, growing of 109 

Grasses, hardy ornamental 283 

Ground bone as a fertilizer 362 

Growing bedding plants 274 

Half-hard cutting 299 

Hanging baskets 271 

Hard cuttings 298 

Hardy plants, forcing of 140 

Hotbeds for lettuce 195 

Hot water as an insecticide 355 

House plants, management of, 258 

plants, selection of 265 

Hyacinth, the Roman 90 

Hyacinths, Dutch and their 

care 91 

planting and care of 88 

water culture of 92 

Hydrangeas, growing in the 

greenhouse 133 

Hydrocyanic acid gas, fumiga- 
tion with 320 

Insecticides, their preparation 

and use 351 

Insects and diseases of house 

plants 263 

of the greenhouse 308 

Intermediate orchids 121 

Jadoo fiber and liquid 367 

Kaln)ia, forcing of. 141 

Kerosene emulsion 352 

Kinney pump, the 366 

Layering, propagation by 300 

Leaf cuttings 300 

mold of carnations 336 

spot of carnations 331 

spot of violets 338 

Lettuce, commercial growing of 186 

diseases of 347 

electro culture of 194 

forcing of in greenhouses.. 182 
growing, preparation and 

care of beds 189 

houses for 184 

in hotbeds 195 

packing for market 192 

pot culture of 188 

varieties of 184 

Lilacs, forcing of 141 

Lilies, ])lanting and care of 95 

Lily of the valley, planting 

and care of 96 

Liquid manure and its prepa- 
ration 365 

Liver of sulphur 357 

Long cuttings 299 

Manures, soil and watering — 360 

Marantas 174 

Meal y bugs 315 

Melons, forcing of 211 

Mignonette, disease of 346 

forcing of 149 

Mildew of the cucumber 348 

Mushroom, the new 223 



382 



GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT. 



Paso 

Miishruonis, beds, care of 220 

beds, spawning ol" 220 

beds, \vateiini>" of 221 

enemies and diseases ;?1S 

house, a. cheap 224 

Mushrooms, cult u r e of in 

greenhouses 211 

gatlu'riiig the crop 221 

making th(» i)eds 210 

preparation of material for 

beds 218 

spawn tor 217 

Narcissus, planting and care of 88 

NepenMies 175 

Oil as fuel 876 

Orchids, care during growth... 128 

cool house ".T 121 

culture of IIG 

diseases and insects 180 

for l)eginners 11!) 

for intermediate houses.. . . 121 
management while in 

bloom 120 

the potting of 121 

the water! uii of 127 

treatment while resting 128 

varieties of 120 

Ornamental grasses 28.8 

Oxalis. the cultivation of m 

raluis. ]>ropagation and care of 162 

varieties of 164 

I'andanus, how to grow 1(!5 

Teach culture under glass 254 

Tear culture under glass 254 

I'edigrce plants. . . . T 202 

riant bugs and remedies for 

them ;{10 

Plants for the house 2()7 

Plum cult ure under glass 254 

I'otash salts as fert ilizers 8(>4 

I'otting and repotting of house 

plants ; 261 

Powdery mildew of the rose. .. 325 
Primulas, single and double... 148 
Propagation by layering, liraft- 

ing and budding ' 800 

by seeds and cuttings 287 

of plants 2S7 

Pyrethrum ;{r>8 

Kadishes, forcing 2;W 

Ked spider 312 

Rhubarb, winter growing of. .. 228 

Root c\ittings 207 

gal Is of the violet 342 

Rose beetle (Fuller's) 811 

rust 326 

Roses, diseases of 324 

forcing hybrid perpetual. . . 21 
liquid manures and ferti- 
lizers , 10 

plan ting the houses 7 

in pots ;ind boxes 24 

potting and care of plants . 4 



Page 
Roses, propagating the plants. 1 

soil for 4 

solid beds vs. raised bench- 
es () 

staking and trellising 20 

Ihe forcing of 1 

varieties for forcing 13 

Avatering and ventilating.. 8 

Rot of carnations ,336 

of lett uce 'Ml 

Rubber trees 172 

Sand for the cutting bed 361 

Saucer propagat ion 2iM) 

Scale insects and remedies 314 

Seeds, proi)agation by 287 

Slugs, snails and sowbugs 316 

Smilax, planting and care of.. 157 

Soft cuttings 293 

Soil for and care of house plants 259 

nianures and watering 360 

Sphanogynes 173 

Spiraeas, forcing of 141 

Spot of carnations 331 

Strawberries, lorcing ;inder 

glass ". 248 

potting and care 240 

varietie?! for forcing 2.52 

Sub-irrigation in the green- 
house 368 

Succulents, propagation and 

care of 284 

Sulphur as a fungicide and 

insecticide 356 

Sweet jieas, cult ival ion of 277 

Temperatvire for house plants. 264 

Thrii>s in the greenhouse .813 

Tobacco as an insecticide 3.53 

Tomatoes, forcing of 205 

training and pruning 208 

varieties for forcing 200 

Topdressing house jilants 2(52 

Tidierose, i>lai>ting ami care. .. 08 

Tuberous begon ias, care of 108 

Tuli]>s, ]>lanting and care of. . . 88 

varieties of 03 

"Violets, diseases of 3;i8 

growing-plants in the house 85 

houses for 78 

propagat ion of 82 

varieties, securing new 290 

soil a)id ]>lanting out 8;^ 

varieties of 86 

ventilation and care of the 

house 84 

Ward i an cases 273 

"Water and li«piid manure for 

house plajits 262 

Watering, manures and soil . . . .860 

plants ,867 

White arsenic as a fungicide.. 3i>9 

Window boxes 260 

Window gardening 258 



^Krsn^ krke: on applicatiojm 



■ w w i " ' ■ ■ 



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OF- 



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construction of tile di'ains will enable the farmer to avoid the 
errors of imperfect construction, and the disappointment that 
must necessarily follow. This manual for jjractieal farmers will 
also be fonnd convenient for references in regard to many ques- 
tions that may arise in crop growing, aside from the special sid) 
jects of drainage of wliich it treats. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 

Allen's New American Farm Book. 

The very best work on the subject; comprising all that can be con 
densed into an available volume. Originally by Richard L. Allen. 
Revised and greatly enlarged by Lewis F. Allen. Cloth, 12mo. 2..')0 

Henderson's Gardening: for Profit. 

By Peter Henderson. The standard work on Market and Family 
Gardening. The successful experience of the author for more than 
thirty years, and his willingness to tell, as he does in this work, th*; 
secret of his success for the benefit of others, enables him to give 
most valuable information. The book is profusely illustrated. 
Cloth, 12mo. poo 

Henderson's Gardening: for Pleasure. 

A guide to the amateur in the fruit, vegetable and flower garden 
with full descriptions for the greenhouse, conservatory and window 
garden. It meets the wants of all classes in country, city and vil- 
lage who keep a garden for their own enjoyment rather than foi 
the sale of products. By Peter Henderson. Finely Illustrated, 
Clot)' , 12mo. 2.0C 

Johnson's How Crops Grow. 

New Edition. A Treatise on the Chemical Composition, Structure 
and Life of the Plant. Revised Edition. This book is a guide to 
the knowledge of agricultural jilants, their composition, their 
structure and modes of development and growth; of the complex 
organizations of plants, and the use of the parts; the germination 
of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and 
the soil. The book is a valuable one to all real students of agricul 
ture. With numerous illustrations and tables of analysis. By Prot. 
Sanniel VV Johnson of Yale College. Cloth, 12mo. 2.0C 



STANDARD BOOKS. 

Johnson's How Crops Feed. 

A Treatise on tlie Atinospliore and the SoD, as related in Ihc 
Nutrition of Agricultural Plants. This volume— the companion and 
complement to "How Crops Grow" — has been welcomed by those 
who appreciate the scientific aspects of agriculture. Illustrated. 
By Prof. Samuel AV. Johnson. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 

Market Gardening: and Farm Notes. 

By Barnet Landreth. Experiences and Observations for both 
North and South, of interest to the Amateur Gardener, Trucker and 
Farmer. A novel feature of the book is the calendar of farm and 
garden operations for each month of the year: the chapters on 
fertilizers, transplanting, succession and rotation of crops, the 
packing, shipping and marketing of vegetables, will be especially 
useful to market gai-deners. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 

Forest Planting:. 

A Treatise on the Care of "Woodlands and the Jtlestoration of the 
Denuded Timber-Lands on Plains and Mountains. By H. Nicholas 
Jarchow, LL. D. The author has fully described those European 
methods which have proved to be most useful in maintaining the 
superb forests of the old world. This experience has been adaptec, 
to the different climates and trees of America, full instructions bt, 
ing given for forest planting on our various kinds of soil and suiv- 
soil, whether on mountain or valley. Illustrated, 12ino. l.fiO 

Harris' Talks on Manures. 

By Joseph Harris, M. S., author of "Walks and Talks on the Farm," 
"Harris on the Pig," etc. Revised and enlarged by the author. A 
series of familiar and practical talks between the author and the 
Deacon, the Doctor, and other neighbors, on the whole subject of 
manures and fertilizers; including a chapter especially written for 
it, by Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted, England. Cloth, 
12mo. 1.75 

Truck Farming: at the South. 

A work which gives the experience of a successful grower of vege- 
tables or " truck" for Nortiiern markets. Essential to any one who 
contemplates entering this promising field of Agriculture. By A. 
Oemler of Georgia. Hlustrated, cloth, 12mo. 1.5C 

Sweet Potato Culture. 

Giving full instructions from starting the plants to harvesting and 
storing the crop. With a chapter on the Chinese Yam. By James 
Fitz, Keswich, Va., author of "Southern Apple and Peach Culture." 
Cloth, 12mo. .60 

Heinrich*s Window Flower Garden. 

The author is a practical florist, and this enterprising volume em- 
bodies his personal experiences in Window Gardening during a 
long period. New and enlarged ed'tion. By .lulius J. Heinrich. 
Vully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 76 



3TANDAKD l^OOEA, 

Greenhouse Construction. 

liyl'iul. L. 11. TjiK. a foinplclc treatise oil 'firconlioasij Blniniures 
and iirningeiiuMil.s of Iho various forms aiul styles of I'laiit Houses 
for professional llorists as well as amateurs. All the best and most 
approved structures are so fully and olearly described that anyone 
who desires to build a Greenhouse will have no difficulty in deter- 
mining the kind best suited to his purpose. The modern and most 
successful methods of lieating and ventilating are fully treated 
upon. Special chai)ters are d«voted to houses used for the growing 
of one kind of x^l^i-i'ls exclusively. The construction of liotbeds 
and frames receives appropriate attention. Over one hundred ex- 
cellent illustrations, specially engraved for this work, make every 
point clear to the reader and add considerably to the artistic ap- 
pearance of the book. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants. 

ByC. L.Allen. A complete treatise on the History, Description, 
Methods of Propagation and full Directions for the successful cul- 
ture of Bulbs in the garden, Dwelling and Greenhouse. As gener- 
ally treated, bulbs are an expensive luxury, while, when properly 
managed, they afford the greatest amount of pleasure at the least 
cost. The author of this book has for many years made bulb grow- 
ing a specialty, and is a recognized authority on th(;ir cultivation 
and management. The illustrations which embellish tliis work 
liave been drawn from nature, and have been engraved especially 
for this book. The cultural directions are plainly stated, practical 
and to the point. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 

Henderson's Practical Floriculture. 

By Peter Henderson. A guide to the successful propagation and 
cultivation of llorists' plants. The w^ork is not one for florists and 
gardeners only, but the amateur's wants are constantly kept in 
mind, and we have a very complete treatise on the cultivation of 
flowers under glass, or in the open air, suited to those who grow 
flowers for pleasure as well as tliose who make them a matter of 
trade. Beautifully illustrated. New and enlarged edition. Cloth, 
12mo. 1.50 

Long's Ornamental Gardening: for Americans. 

A Treatise on Beautifying Homes, Rural Districts and Cemeteries. 
A plain and practical work at a moderate price, with numerous 
illustrations and instructions so plain that they may be readily 
followed. By Elias A. Long, Landscap<^ A.rchiteet. Illustrated, 
Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 

The Propagfation of Plants. 

By Andrew S. Fuller. Hlustrated with numerous engravings. An 
eminently practical and usefid work. Describing tlie process of 
hybridizing and crossing sjjecies and varieties, and also the many 
diflfei-ent modes by which cultivated jilants may be propagated and 
multiplied. Cloth, 12mOt 1 50 



STANDAED BOOiib* 

Parsons on the Rose. 

By Samuel B. Parsons. A treatise on the propagation, culture and 
history of the rose. New and revised edition. In his worlc upon 
tlie rose, Mr. Parsons lias gatliered up the curious legends concern- 
ing the liower, and gives us an idea of the esteem in which it was 
held in former times. A simple garden classification has been 
adopted, and the leading varieties under each class enumerated 
and briefly described. The chapters on multiplication, cultivation 
and training are very full, and the work is altogether one of the 
most complete before the public. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 

Henderson's Handbook of Plants. 

This new edition comprises about fifty per cent, more genera than 
the former one, and embraces the botanical name, derivation, 
natural order, etc., together with a short history of the different 
genera, concise instructions for their propagation and culture, and 
all the leading local or common English names, together witli a 
comprehensive glossary of Botanical and Technical terms. Plain 
instructions are also given for the cultivation of the principal veg- 
etables, fruits and flowers. Cloth, large 8vo. 4.00 

Barry's Fruit Garden. 

By P. Barry. A standard work on Fruit and Fruit Trees ; the author 
having had over thirty years' practical experience at the head of 
one of the largest nurseries in this country. New edition revised 
up to date. Invaluable to all fruit growers. Illustrated. Cloth, 



12mo. 



2.00 



Fulton's Peach Culture. 

This is the only juactical guide to Peach Culture on the Delaware 
Peninsula, and is the best work upon the subject of peach growing 
for those who would be successful in that culture in any part of 
the country. It lias been thoroughly revised and a large portion of 
it rewitten, by Hon. J. Alexander Fulton, the author, bringing it 
down to date. Cloth, 12mo. 1-50 

Strawberry Culturist. 

By Andrew S. Fuller. Containing the History, Sexuality, Field and 
Garden Culture of Strawberries, forcing or pot culture, how to 
grow from seed, hybridizing, and all information necessary to en- 
able everybody to raise their own strawberries, together with a 
descriptionof new varieties and a list of the bent of the old sorts. 
Fully illustrated. Flexible cloth, 12mo. '25 

Fuller's Small Fruit Culturist. 

By Andrew S. Fuller. Rewritten, enlarged, and brought fully up to 
the present time. Tlie book covers 1 lie whole ground of propagating 
Small Fruits, their culture, varieties, i)acking for market, et^.-. It is 
very finely and tlun'oughly illustrated, and makes ai. admirable 
companion to "The Grape Culturist," by the same well known 
author. ^-^ 



STAKDARU BOOKS, 

Fuller's Grape Culturist, 

By A. S. Fuller. This is one of the very best or worlcs on tlie CxiJi- 
ture of the Hardy Grapes, with full directions for all departments 
of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illus- 
trating planting, training, grafting, etc. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

Quinn's Pear Culture for Profit. 

Teaching How to Raise Pears intelligently, and with the best re- 
sults, how to find out the character of the soil, the best nietliods of 
preparing it, the best varieties to select under existing conditions; 
the best modes of planting, pruning, fertilizing, grafting, and utiliz- 
ing the ground before the trees come into bearing, and finally of 
gathering and packing for market. Illustrated. By P. T. Quinn, 
practical horticulturist. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 

Husmann's American Grape Growing: and Wine-Making:. 

By George Husmann of Talcoa vineyards, Napa, California. New 
and enlarged edition. With contributions from well know grape- 
growers, giving a wide range of experience. The author of this 
book is a recognized authority on the subject. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

White's Cranberry Culture. 

Contents:— Natural History.— History of Cultivation.— Choice of 
Location.— Prei)aring the Ground. — Planting the Vines. — Manage- 
ment of Meadows. — Flooding.— Enemies and Ditficulties Overconib. 
-Picking. — Keeping. — Profit and Loss. — Letters from Practical 
Growers. — Insects Injurious to the Cranberry. By Joseph J. White, 
a practical grower. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. New and revised 
edition. 1'25 

Fuller's Practical Forestey. 

A Treatise on the Propagation, Planting and Cultivation, with a 
description and the botanical and jn-oper names of all the indigen- 
ous trees of the United States, both Evergreen and Deciduous, with 
Notes on a large number of the most valuable Exotic Species. By 
Andrew S. Fuller, author of "Grape Culturist," "Small Fruit Cul- 
turist," etc. 1-50 

Stewart's Irrigation for the Farm, Garden and Orchard. 

This work is offered to those American Farmers and other cultiva- 
tors of the soil who, from painful experience, can readily appro- 
ciate the losses which result from the scarcity of water at critical 
periods. By Henry Stewart. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

Quinn's Money in the Garden. 

By P. T. Quinn. The author gives in a plain, practical style, in- 
structions on three distinct, although closely connected branches 
of gardening— the kitchen garden, market garden, and fn^id culture, 
from successful i)ractical exxjcrieiice for a terux of years, lllustra- 
Utd. Cloth, 12mo. I'M 



STANDAED BOOKS. 

Roe's Play and Profit in My Garden. 

By E. P. Roe. The author takes us to his garden on the rocky hill- 
sides in tlie vicinity of West Point, and sliows us liow out of it, 
after four years' experience, lie evoked a profit of $1,000, and tliis 
while carrying on pastoral and literary labor. It is very rarely 
that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agri- 
cultural exi)erience and good sense. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

riie New Onion Culture. 

By T. Greiner. This new work is written by one of our most suc- 
cessful agriculturists, and is full of new, original, and highly valu 
able matter of material interest to every one who raises onions in 
the family garden, or by tlie acre for market. By the process here 
described a crop of 2000 bushels per acre can be as easily raised as 
500 or 600 bushels in the old way. Paper, J2mo. .50 

The Dairyman's Manual. 

By Henry Stewart, author of "The Shepherd's Manual," "Irriga- 
tion," etc. A useful and practical work, by a writer who is well 
known as thoroughly familiar with the subject of which he writes. 
Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 

Allen's American Cattle. 

Their History, Breeding and Management. By Lewis F. Allen. 
This book will be considered indispensable by every breeder of 
live stock. The large experience of the author in improving the 
character of American herds adds to the weight of his observations 
and has enabled him to produce a work which will at once make 
good his claims as a standard authority on the subject. New and 
revised edition. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50 

Profits in Poultry. 

Useful and ornamental Breeds and their Profitable Management. 
This excellent work contains the combined experience of a num- 
ber of practical men in all departments of i^oultry raising. It is 
profusely illustrated and forms a unique and important addition 
to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12nio. l.Ofl 

The American Standard of Perfection. 

The recognized standard work on Poultry in this country, adopted 
by the American Poultiy Association. It contains a complete de- 
scriptionof all the recognized varieties of fowls, including turkeys, 
ducks and geese; gives instructions to judges; glossary of technical 
terms and nomenclature. It contains 244 pages, handsomely 
bound in cloth, embellished with title in gold on front cover. $1.00 

Stoddard's An Bgg Farm. 

Jiy H. H. Stoddard. The management of ijoultry in large numbers, 
being a series of articles written for the AMERICAN AGRICULTUK* 
1ST. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. JX 



STA1?DARD BOOKS. 

Stewart's Shepherd's ManuaL 

A Valuable Practical Treatise on the Sheep for American farmers 
and sheep j^rowers. It is so plain that a farmer or a farmer's son 
who lias never kept a slieep, may learn from its pages how to 
manage a floclv successfully, and yet so complete that even the ex-. 
perienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The 
results of personal experience of some years with the characters 
•)i the various modern breeds of sheep, and the sheep raising capa- 
bilities of many portions of our extensive territory and that of 
Canada — and the careful study of tlie diseases to which our sliecp 
are chiefly subject, with those by which they may eventually be 
afflicted through nnforseen accidents— as well as the methods of 
management called for under our circumstances, are carefully 
described. By Henry Stewart. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

Wrigfht's Practical Poultry-Keeper. 

By L. Wright. A complete and standard guide to the management 
of poultry, for domestic use, the markets or exhibition. It suits at 
once the plain poiilterer, who must make the business pay, and the 
chicken fancier whose taste is for gay x^luraage and strange, bright 
birds. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $12.00 

Harris on the Pi§:. 

New Edition. Revised and enlarged by the author. The points of 
the various Englisli and American breeds ai'e thoroughly discussed, 
and the great advantage of using thoroughbred males clearly 
shown. The work is equally valuable to the farmer who keeps but 
few pigs, and to the breeder on an extensive scale. By Joseph 
Harris. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 

The Farmer's Veterinary Adviser. 

A guide to the rrevention and Treatment of Disease in Domestic 
Animals. This is one of the best works on this subject, and is es- 
pecially designed to supply the need of the busy American Farm 
er, wlio can rarely avail himself of the advice of a Scientific Veter- 
inarian. It is brought up to date and treats of the Prevention ol 
Disease as well as of the Remedies. By Prof. Jas. Law. Cloth, 
Crown, 8vo. 3.00 

Dadd's American Cattle Doctor. 

By George H. Dadd, M. D., Veterinary Practitioner. To help every 
man to be his own cattle-doctor; giving the necessary informatioi: 
for preserving the health and curing the diseases of oxen, cows^ 
sheep and swine, witli a great variety of original recipes, and val- 
uable information on farm and dairy management. Cloth, 12mo. 1.5C 

Cattle Breeding:. 

By Wm. Warlield. This work is by common consent the most 
valuable and pre-eminently practical treatise on cattle-breecling 
ever published in America, being the actual experience and ob- 
servance of a practical man. Cloth, 12mo. 9..0CI 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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